I just left a deposit on a thing.

[Yeti]

I will start out by saying that this wasn't an impulse buy. I've been sniffing around this car for YEARS.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8685/16884233672_f4d30d7432_b.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8687/16885419375_cf213d8f26_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7622/16859511946_9478ca901a_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7653/16859511466_2c43480999_b.jpg lol potato fail.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8712/16263033304_0cf47fac20_b.jpg

It's a '65 Volvo 122 sedan. 4-speed, with a blue interior.

The story basically goes that this car sat in a new Volvo showroom down in Georgia for about 20 years. Then, it sold on ebay to one of the owners of a local import repair shop. Said shop was once a new Volvo dealer itself, but now the original owner's 2 sons run the place as a repair garage. Really nice guys, I bring cars there sometimes. I saw the car sitting there right when he first got it, so I stopped to ask about it and look at it. And threatened to return should I ever see it for sale. He bought the car for his wife, and put a ton of work into it to get it roadworthy for her, and now a few years later she's decided she wanted an old wagon intsead. And it went up for sale and now I'm picking it up monday.

It's weird to get an old car that's just...sorted, by someone who knows what they're doing. The engine, fuel system, brakes, SU carbs, suspension, everything is sorted out. It just starts up and drives around, like an actual car. And it doesn't leak anything. And it's absolutely straight without a speck of rust. He even put it on the lift for me and...yeah. It's practically factory fresh underneath. It's just really nice, inside and outside. I haven't owned an old car this ready to roll since I bought Russ' brother's '81 Datsun wagon.

So, pretty pleased that I got to it. And it's owner is pleased that it's going to another Volvo enthusiast.

No real plans for it once I have it, except to remove the dealer-accessory under-dash AC and compressor and store that away, install a tachometer, and maybe get a slightly smaller steering wheel.

[FaultyMario]

:toast:

[speedpimp]

Nice.

[thesameguy]

Fine automobile, sir!

[Rare White Ape]

Ha! It's beautiful. I love it.

[Cam]

Beauty, eh!

[Yeti]

It should make a pretty nice summer driver :D

[Yw-slayer]

Sweet. I've always loved those.

[Leon]

awesome :)

[Godson]

I LOVE older Volvos.

I dream of having a P1800. But I digress.




Super happy to see you picking this thing up. Lot's of photos and tons of stories please.

[Yeti]

I'll get more pictures on Monday.

One thing I did forget to point out, is that the place I'm getting this car from is the same place my dad bought his first car decades ago, a used '64 Olds F85.

[Taimar]

That's a great car. My mom's first car, in 1967, was a two-door Amazon, same color as yours. Sadly she wrecked it and replaced it with a frog-green '71 Vega, but that's another story.

There's a shop here in Seattle that caters exclusively to pre-1975 Volvos called X-ray Automotive. Really a class place.

[Yeti]

I've been meaning to visit Seattle for some time. Relatives and family friends are out there. I would definitely swing past a specialty Volvo shop as part of the trip.

[Random]

:up:

[KillerB]

Awesome!

[Yeti]

I've been without a car since last fall. I'm going to have to find a daily for the times of the year when driving the Volvo won't do.

I'm thinking another early 90s Accord, or maybe a big old American mushmobile. Maybe a Roadmaster wagon :D

[2ndMoparMan]

http://www.dastank.com/thing%201-11-09/thing1.JPG

Thought you meant this kind of thing.

[neanderthal]

Super fn nice.

[Yeti]

http://www.dastank.com/thing%201-11-09/thing1.JPG

Thought you meant this kind of thing.

There's a guy in town here whose 2-car garage is filled with one of those and one DeLorean. I honestly wonder which he drives more often.

[GB]

It's so uncool that it's the coolest. :up:

[Random]

BTW, there was an Amazon racing this weekend (most obvious theme ever); the MC described it as "even worse than a P1800, with less power, heavier, and with no brakes." They won the Index of Effluency.

So there you go. :D

[tigeraid]

Shit, I'm late.







Smallblock.

[Yeti]

Day I plan to bring the car home, it snows.

Thanks, Wisconsin :up:

Roads should be cleared and dry tomorrow.

[Yeti]

Made it home safely:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7642/16710043667_7320928ef2_b.jpg

Enjoy some hasty, poorly lit potato photos:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7645/16916107052_d1cec25f18_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/16916370151_cfe5bdb65a_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/16729709538_3e56f1009a_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7612/16891457326_19bceb0a9b_b.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8696/16731189649_af74c1a375_b.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8708/16916108632_e27bf0387b_b.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8722/16891457806_e9511e01be_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7647/16710045427_0ae9258951_b.jpg
Safety!
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8733/16916106072_c11f22a96b_b.jpg

[thesameguy]

I think you're going to need a tweed jacket. :up:

[novicius]

Looks to be in great condition! :up: :up:

Maybe think about taking the hubcaps off? Or are those cheap to replace if they get stolen?

Glasspack, Panasports, some Panamericana rally stickers & a gaggle of fog lights up front? ;)

[Crazed_Insanity]

Not a huge fan of its interior, but it's actually a pretty nice looking car!

[Yeti]

Looks to be in great condition! :up: :up:

Maybe think about taking the hubcaps off? Or are those cheap to replace if they get stolen?

Glasspack, Panasports, some Panamericana rally stickers & a gaggle of fog lights up front? ;)


I've given some thought to that. I don't think those hubcaps grow on trees.

Unlike later Volvos, this one's got a very common 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. So, in theory some smallish wheel meant for an old American car might be workable.

[Godson]

Badass!

[thesameguy]

Since old Volvos look like old Fords, the obvious answer is some Koenig Rewinds in 15x7 for all your daily driving needs!

[Rare White Ape]

I just did a Google image search on these things. The 2-door and wagon versions are to die for.

[Yeti]

The wagons are fan-fucking-tastic. I'd love to have one of those.

[Yeti]

Repair #1 has officially happened.

The day I got the thing, I goofed and absent-mindedly pulled the choke out when I was starting the car with an already warm engine. Flooded it. Ground the newish battery down starting it again. Battery seemed weak after that, and didn't seem to be charging as well as it should be, even with a generator.

Today I pulled the battery to put it on a trickle charge, and....the nearly new negative battery cable had broken off right at the eye where it grounds to the body :mad:

One new cable and one battery charge and everything is right again.

[Yeti]

Decided to get some new air filters, since the old ones are kind of brittle.

Took one look at the price at IPD http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5067/104117-engine-air-filter-pair-su-2-bolt

and bought this instead http://www.ebay.com/itm/171729440371?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It's gotten some good reviews at Swedespeed and the like, so I figure it's worth the risk.

[Yeti]

Okay, so I'm updating the Volvo's electrical system to a 63-amp GM alternator, and I'm going to need to run a cable from a terminal block to the positive battery cable. What gauge of wire should I be using for that? There's already a crimp-on accessory terminal on the cable, but no way am I using that puny wire for battery charging.

[Godson]

Positive battery cable, or the terminal?

[Yeti]

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/16729709538_e1fd7d4194_h.jpg

The wire will be run from that (non factory) terminal block in the upper right of the engine bay, to the positive battery cable's post clamp.

[thesameguy]

For a 63a alternator 10g or 8ga is fine, but I would personally go with 6ga - that will support a much larger alternator if you ever want one, and is sort of a standard size in 2015. I would recommend fusing the wire with a 100a Megafuse for safety (save the battery if the alternator ever shorts to ground) - you can see what those parts look like on my Falcon or XR4ti in my thread.

[Godson]

A 63 amp isn't very big.


http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/alternator_conversion/wiring_alternator1.html#WireGauge



TSG beat me to it.

[Yeti]

Thanks guys!

Probably a good idea to add a fuse to the final product. Near as I can tell, that added-on terminal block (and the giant white wire attached to it) are merely there to put a fuse into the charging system. Normally those two black wires (one to ign switch, one to voltage regulator) on the terminal block would just go to the starter. That white wire is fused and goes from the terminal block to the starter. Since I need a separate post anyway for the alternator swap, that terminal block's presence is quite convenient.

[Yeti]

Okay, to tally what I've acquired (or am waiting on) for my simple gen-to-alt swap.

1 Delco 10SI style 12:00 3-wire alternator w/ appropriately sized pulley.
1 SWEM alternator conversion kit.
1 SWEM rebuilt fuse block. 4 fuses for the whole car! Yeah 1960s!
1 10AWG inline fuse holder to swap this one weird 25A shorty ceramic fuse in the fuse block for a standard blade-style.
1 megafuse holder
1 100A mega fuse
6AWG red battery cable in appropriate lengths and terminations to replace ALL of the wiring between the alternator and battery.

Swap is underway as soon as I've got all the parts gathered.


Next project will be:

- Completely remove AC system and carefully store the parts away. Goals are not having passenger leg room filled up with the underdash evap/fan/expansion unit, and not having a York comressor half as big as the engine hanging from a tiny bracket under the hood.
- Replace hoses, thermostat, and belt.
- Remove woefully inadequate 4-blade, un-shrouded, non-clutched fan from water pump. Install Flexalite 133 pusher fan where AC condenser used to be. Goal is an engine that no longer sounds like an airplane, and the ability to idle in traffic on warm days without overheating.

Then I will drive the car in the summer without AC, but also without fear.

I'd REALLY like to get a puller fan, but unfortunately there is just NO ROOM for one between the pump and the radiator. Pusher fans seem to be the standard go-to for 122s. Even Grassroots Motorsports did it with theirs.

[thesameguy]

That makes the Falcon sound fancy with FIVE fuses. Well, five fuses plus a circuit breaker for the headlights. All that's in the past, though. :)

I have the same concerns with an electric fan as well - no room between the water pump and the radiator. Unfortunately, there isn't room in front of the radiator either - a hood support dramatically limits options. :( Someday I will buy a pair of 8" slim fans and hopefully be able to stagger them in such a way that they work as pullers, but the simple 4-blade stock fan so far has done a totally adequate job!

[Yeti]

Your fan is better than mine, then! If the car idles for 10 minutes or so, it starts to get pretty warm, quick! From what I've read about these cars, that's about par for the course.

I'm actually really enjoying working on this car for a change. Like I said, I haven't had a car this well-sorted since Tim's Datsun. I've been daily-driving this car since the day I got it with no issues at all, save me killing the battery and breaking a cable. I only work on it because I want to make it better, not because I have to make it work.

[thesameguy]

I do have an oversized radiator (from a V8 Mustang) so that's likely part of it.

I enjoy working on the Falcon too - I didn't have the same starting point as you, but the thing about most older cars is how simple they are. All the technology is very basic, easy to understand, and is rarely more than meets the eye. Very little "I wonder what causes X" going on. Very little cursing when it comes to the Falcon, too. ;)

[neanderthal]

I do have an oversized radiator (from a V8 Mustang) so that's likely part of it.

I enjoy working on the Falcon too - I didn't have the same starting point as you, but the thing about most older cars is how simple they are. All the technology is very basic, easy to understand, and is rarely more than meets the eye. Very little "I wonder what causes X" going on. Very little cursing when it comes to the Falcon, too. ;)

Ain't that the truth.

I just replaced the 1& 6 coil in my E320 for the third time in two years. 3 times. Not the other coils, just the back one that fires cylinders 1 and 6. I think it might have something do with there being more heat in that area due to it's proximity with the firewall, but nobody on Benzworld.org or peachparts seems to have had a similar problem. And of course there was no codes!

Now i'm fretting about what the root cause of these constant failures is.
In my BMW 2002, all I needed to worry about for ignition failures is power, plugs, cap, coil or wires ever since I got the Petronix ignitor. i could travel all over the country with a screwdriver, 10mm, a 12mm, 13mm, and a 17mm wrench and not have to worry about anything. The Benz requires a whole toolbox.

[Yeti]

Took it to my aunt's 4th party today.

On the way there, it blew either the core or the heater valve. I'm thinking valve....it disintegrated as soon as I touched it.

THANKS OBAMA.

[thesameguy]

That's what happens when you elect Democrats. Everyone knows, they just don't want to say it. I'm not afraid.

DEMOCRATS CAUSE COOLING SYSTEM FAILURES.

[Yeti]

Went to the parts store and found a molded 5/8" heater hose with a 180-degree bend. Perfect.

I don't really need heat anyway. I don't take the car out in weather below 50 degrees.


In other news, this car has bad heat soak. It vapor locks worse than any other car I've ever owned, and I once owned a slant-six Dodge. Googling this seems to indicate that this isn't uncommon on these cars :\

I'm trying to figure out if there's better way to re-route the gas lines underhood. Or maybe rerouted lines + wrap on the exhaust manifold to keep it from cooking the carbs. Maybe work an electric pump and a better heat shield or spacers for the carbs in as well.

[thesameguy]

Some things:

1. Phenolic carb spacer?
2. Replace metal lines with rubber lines?

[Yeti]

All of the underhood lines are already rubber.

I think the biggest problem is just that the carbs are hanging right over the exhaust manifold. And not really far away from it either. The bowls are super close.

[thesameguy]

Oh, well, that's ass! :)

I would say heat shields are definitely called for. You can use header wrap, but I've had really mixed results with it and generally don't like it. I think a superior solution would ceramic coating - if you can find a place that does it locally, get the inside coated and that will help with extraction and underhood temps.

Heat shields are generally very easy to make with aluminum, but with dollars on the table you can use this cool composite material, like this:

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb203.htm

I think Summit carries something similar, and if I put some brain power into it I will come up with a domestic brand name. It's the shit - definitely on my to-do list for the XR4Ti, whose intercooler pipe runs directly over the manifold.

[Kchrpm]

Try milk shakes. They always cool me off on a hot day.

[Leon]

and they bring the boys to your yard

[Yeti]

Well, I did some looking around on the car and found out that it already HAS a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the carb bowls. It's just difficult to see from the passenger side of the engine bay. From the driver's side it's quite easy to see if you look under the carbs.

Blah.

I still think re-routing the fuel lines/filters might help a bit.

[novicius]

Discreet hood louvers? ;) #virginsheetmetal

[Yeti]

Christ, I didn't realize how gigantic this car's AC compressor was until I pulled it out of the car today and saw the gaping void where it used to fit into the engine bay.

Before:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/16729709538_3e56f1009a_b.jpg

After:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3737/19811799185_5901bc156d_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/255/19623783188_2a957d5259_b.jpg


I've got access to about 60lbs of R12 for more or less free, but this AC system didn't even have the slightest whispering fart of refrigerant left in it, so I just said eff it and yanked it out. I had to work in between tornados and thunderstorms, but it was pretty easy. I honestly thought about pulling my vacuum pump and micron gage off my work van, to see if I could pull any kind of vacuum on it, but laziness prevailed :laugh:

The compressor went on this gigantic bracket:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/474/19816612341_6fb14509e8_b.jpg

which was attached to the engine at one engine mount, the fuel pump, 3 bolts on the front cover, and the cylinder head. I guess they really didn't want it to move.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/275/19623764560_2b6d09622b_b.jpg

Once a part of Borg-Warner. Now owned by Johnson Controls and the makers of the shittiest residential split systems and commercial rooftop gas packs that money can buy.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3761/19623762660_b6cb06a5df_b.jpg

Heard of York, but never heard of this outfit before.


The dryer and condenser coil are still in the car. I didn't feel like pulling the grille or radiator out of the car. Another day.

[thesameguy]

I'd definitely hang onto that York compressor - they can still be rebuilt and used. I wouldn't personally do either of those things, but if/when you sell the car someone will be very happy that you saved it. Original intact AC is increasingly tough to find!

[Yeti]

All of it (save the condenser which is still in the car) is already tucked away safely in a big Rubbermaid tote.

I'm betting that crazy compressor mounting bracket is an especially difficult find these days.

[Yeti]

It survived a 150-mile round trip to a modest Cars and Coffee (https://www.flickr.com/photos/69814699@N08/sets/72157656672706542) event in Lake Mills today.

My car was parked where it belonged...outside the cordoned off display area :lol: The gate guy tried to wave me in but I told him I'd let the guys who wash their cars more than once a year have the parking spots.

[thesameguy]

Man, wear that patina with pride! :D

[Yeti]

A few weeks ago, dumbass lady in a Maxima backs into the car while it's parked at my bank, denting the hood and scuffing the grille:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/582/21664551605_9d8bfea388_b.jpg

Filed a claim with her insurance and got the car back last week:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5776/21638516616_386a8cab05_b.jpg

The guys at the body shop told me they had to call the Allstate adjuster twice, and that the final number was more than quadruple his original estimate :lol:

[thesameguy]

Man, usually driving the old, rare car doesn't pay off, but it seems this time YOU WIN!

[Yeti]

About 8 months in now and things have developed thusly:

- Drivetrain wobble when accelerating from a stop. Engine and trans mounts both a bit spongy. Replacing those with heavier 164 mounts. Rear bushings also look pretty well done for. Going with IPD's urethane bushings back there, and some KYB Gas-A-Justs while I'm at it. I plan to do the same up front, but that can wait a bit.

- The car has developed an oil leak while sitting. I'll probably let a shop take care of that. Blegh.

- The generator still more or less works, so I haven't swapped in my alternator yet. The car still reminds me via the gen light when I'm being too extravagant with the accessories though. Headlights, wipers, blower, AND radio? Are you mad, sir?


Also, quitting my job on the 20th to go back to school! Whee! Maybe I'll put a furnace in the garage and work on the car in the evenings :lol:

[Random]

:up:

What's the school plan?

[Yeti]

Going back to trade school for a couple of semesters to get some licenses and certs I should've gotten 5 years ago but didn't because I was out of money.

[Random]

Noice. :cool:

[Jason]

:up:

[thesameguy]

Is a license to kill one of them?

[novicius]

:up: :up:

[Yeti]

License to ill, more like.

[thesameguy]

That doesn't sound half bad.

[speedpimp]

A/C installer cert is a license to chill.

[thesameguy]

Ooooh.... well played!

[Yeti]

I'm going to write 'license to chill' on the back of my EPA 608 card.

[Yeti]

So today I learned that my completely blue interior is not factory correct.

According to the codes on my car's tag, my car is supposed to have a 1965-only blood red vinyl interior :lol: I undid a hog ring on the car's cloth seat covers and sure enough, there's some completely faded red vinyl under there.

So, it looks like seat covers, door cards, and carpets are in my future. And some new kick panels just to finish the looks. Luckily, reproduction stuff is available at a reasonable price. Another thing for the 'future' pile.

[21Kid]

Are you going to replicate the original Blood Red color? :hard:

[novicius]

And bag it? ;)

[Yeti]

Apparently the color of my car's interior isn't METAL enough to be blood red. It's more like 'nasty old diner bench' red.

I've got my front seat cushions out to re-web the seats, and I got a look at the parts of the red vinyl where the sun wouldn't have hit it and it still looks fresh. That color is horrid.

I'm going to leave the blue and just get new OEM-style blue covers and new hog rings and call it good. Piss on originality!

[speedpimp]

So Swedish Black Metal Troll Blood Spilled On A Diner Bench Red is a no go? Darn.

[Yeti]

Also, if anyone out there goes junking and finds a Volvo Amazon with a blue vinyl interior that isn't ripped to shreds (split seams I can probably have fixed locally, torn material is probably a no-go) and feels like grabbing the upholstery for me and shipping it out, I've got paypal fired up and ready.

New reproduction stuff is out there, but it isn't cheap.

It's very easy to remove the seat upholstery on these, at least on the front seats. 4 screws for the backrest and then cut the hog rings to get the material off. 4 buttons to remove the seat bottom from the frame and then again cut the hog rings.

[speedpimp]

There was a guy in New Buffalo, MI who had an entire property filled with all sorts of Volvos, from Amazons to 960s. Unfortunately his property was declared an "eyesore" and any cars that didn't run were to be scrapped out. That's what happens when the property is on the main drag(US 12) and your town's survival hinges on the Chicago crowd that comes to vacation during the summer.

[pl8ster]

Also, if anyone out there goes junking and finds a Volvo Amazon with a blue vinyl interior that isn't ripped to shreds (split seams I can probably have fixed locally, torn material is probably a no-go) and feels like grabbing the upholstery for me and shipping it out, I've got paypal fired up and ready.


I'll keep an eye out, certainly, but I'm in the outer reaches of the Dagobah System ice planet Hoth Rust Belt and can't remember ever seeing an Amazon in a junkyard around these parts.

[Yeti]

Here's something tiny that makes a huge difference in driving - the seat webbings. Mine were trashed so the seats sagged terribly. The difference in comfort is night and day with the new seat webs in. While I was at it I also lowered the driver's seat and put it at a less extreme angle. Some previous owner had raised them as high as possible and put quite a rake on the seats. I had no idea they were adjustable (with tools) until getting the seat cushions off. No more crowding the wheel or grazing the headliner over bumps!

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1673/24171124326_537d1b63bd_b.jpg

Pirelli strap is the correct vintage product to use, but as you can see above, it turns to crumbling nasty lasagna noodles. Mine had already been replaced a time or two.

Modern product! I used Elasbelt and speedy rivets to make new seat webs. Should last a lot longer:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1684/24089181462_348164c2c1_b.jpg

Cat is very diasppointed that she can't sleep on my seat cushions anymore:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5834/23836431720_8d913b1d29_b.jpg

You can see my original seat color there, though discolored from age. And speaking of that, after looking at some pictures of a 167-502 interior fully intact, I'm starting to lean towards going back to the original color scheme:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1632/23704794089_9f9a5b073b_b.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5679/23776936840_42f9839d21_b.jpg
You just know that dude's on his way back to work after a 3 martini lunch.

[21Kid]

Long Throw Shifter

[thesameguy]

They're easier to use while DUIing.

[21Kid]

I disagree. There's too much room for something to go wrong... Not that I would know, mind you. ;)

[TheBenior]

I disagree. There's too much room for something to go wrong... Not that I would know, mind you. ;)
It's just assumed when you're from Wisconsin (http://places.findthehome.com/stories/3543/map-shows-drunkest-states-most-bars).

[Yeti]

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1512/23942724740_242b150690_b.jpg


Steering wheel was pretty solidly seized onto the hub splines after however many years it's been since it was last off.

BUT, after about 6 hours of PB soak and some thorough beating with a rubber mallet!

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1543/24156455571_3eb99c57f5_b.jpg

Progress is stopped for the night though. Some yahoo was in there before me and left the screws so stripped I could barely remove them. I'm going to get some new ones tomorrow. But, the end goal of all this is to have a turn signal stalk that I don't have to hold in position to keep the indicator going.

[thesameguy]

Whoa. Mag Lite.

[Yeti]

LED, son!

[Yeti]

Finally got a decent-enough day to work on this thing.

Oil changed, finally.

Spark plugs changed, finally. The old ones looked like they'd been in a coal mine.

Engine and trans mounts changed:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1446/25222148821_1f5478ba0e_b.jpg

I used heavier Volvo 164 mounts for those. IPD says that mount doesn't work for the trans, but they do. I'll take slightly more vibration instead of having to change these things every 2 years. The engine mounts weren't horrible, but the trans mount was toast.

And after that I got tired of working on it and called it a day. I did discover that my driveshaft support bushings are #REKT:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1654/25222205071_36ebe47d35_b.jpg

as are my front swaybar bushings, so I placed an appropriate order with IPD. There's seriously nothing left in those bushings. The driveshaft is just flopping about all willy-nilly. AND NOBODY LIKES THAT.

Tomorrow's plan is to get the shocks in and maybe get started on the rear bushings. Everything is soaking in PB as I type this. Not that I'm having much trouble with rusty fasteners on this southern car.

[Godson]

Holy shit those bushings have seen better days

[JoshInKC]

Yeah, that shits been et.

[Yeti]

The car's breather/PCV system definitely had some vacuum leaks, to both the front carb and the intake manifold. All of the hoses are hard as rocks, and when I pulled the PCV valve off to clean it, the little rubber connector that attaches it to the breather box crumbled >:|

Volvo doesn't sell that part anymore, and no standard hose is the right size to both fit on the PCV valve and fit snugly to the breather box. I managed to find one at VP autoparts...another thing to wait for. Cleaned the oil cap mesh with solvent and I'm going to replace the other hoses while I'm at it.

[thesameguy]

Can you use some sort of bulkhead fitting to modify/repair the breather box?

[Yeti]

If it came down to it I'd use a barbed brass reducer fitting. The only part that broke is a specially molded rubber connector that attaches the PCV valve to the box.

[Yeti]

Finally got out to the garage today!

Got the following finished:

Front swaybar links
PCV system all buttoned back up
rear trailing arm bushings and axle bushings
rear panhard bushings
new rear axle straps
driveshaft support bushings (no more flopping driveshaft - yey!)

The problem now is that the remains of the old bushing sleeves are straight up fused to the old rear torque arms. Hopefully I can get those pressed out. If not, new arms I guess :\

[thesameguy]

Is poly an option? Maybe just burn out the old rubber, replace with poly, done!

[Yeti]

That's exactly what I'm doing :p IPD poly bushings everywhere. And there was torch action going on today for sure.

The bushings I'm trying to remove have metal sleeves on the inside and the outside. And the outside metal sleeves are seriously suck inside the torque arms. I'm pretty sure that all of these bushings I've pulled off today are original and they've been in place for 50 years. The sleeves aren't coming out easy :lol:

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6564/101663-front-trailing-rod-bushing-rubber


I also noticed that my exhaust system is a bit precarious, only due to old hangers. Getting some new ones.

[thesameguy]

OIC - any chance you can find them (or materially similar ones) from another manufacturer that reuses the sleeves? A lot of Energy's products do.

[Yeti]

My plan is to try to get them pressed out and if that fails, new arms.

[Godson]

Heat, pressure, and pray

[thesameguy]

A Sawzall can be useful - some careful cuts to weaken the sleeve.

[Yeti]

Victory!

A couple of shops near my house came up no on pressing out the old sleeves. They didn't think they could do something that small without damaging it.

So I came home, stuck a metal blade in my sawzall and cut notches. The first one literally flew out as soon as the blade got some purchase in the sleeve. The other had to be knocked out with a hammer but still gave pretty easily once I cut through it. w00t!

And, I also passed my practical high pressure boiler exam today, with flying colors. 8 weeks early. Still have to take the license exam and finish the classroom work, but this is one thing out of the way.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4UqMyldS7Q

[thesameguy]

A+

Glad it didn't turn into a battle!

[Yeti]

A+

Glad it didn't turn into a battle!

Spoken too soon! :D

I ALMOST got the suspension done today. I was having an insanely difficult time getting the second torque arm on the rear end and couldn't figure out why. I ended up taking the first one off to compare and found that the one I was fighting with was actually a bit shorter than the other. The important dimensions were the same but the other had a longer threaded end on it.

Raged for a minute or two, and then after realizing I wouldn't be able to HULK SLAM the part onto the car with the urethane bushings, I took one bushing, neatly sliced a mm or two off of it, and installed it at the end of the arm, where it won't affect the geometry. All done. Put the rear shocks and exhaust hangers on and got started on the front.

I'm not going to get the front shocks out without cutting the tops off, and my sawzall batteries were dead so I packed it in for the day. Just got to get the front shocks on tommorrow and the car will be back on the ground.

[Yeti]

OMG. This thing drives about 10x better than before. No more flopping driveshaft, no more rear end clunks, no more dead shock wallow. I just need to have a shop change the front bushings and balljoints and the *necessary* mechanical work I wanted finished will be done.

I still need to swap in the alternator and take care of some minor details, though.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1577/25106837134_880bfac954_b.jpg

Shakedown run was to a super-exciting destination.

[thesameguy]

Looks good, even at a Target!

[Yeti]

I've figured out the only appearance mod I'm going to make to this car.

A set of KronPrinz steel wheels, which are identical to the ones on the car, except 1.5 inches wider, nearly all of which is lip:

http://www.networksvolvoniacs.org/images/thumb/4/4f/185_65_vorn.JPG/800px-185_65_vorn.JPG

Except I'll have them powdercoated the same color as the body.

Then I'll get a second set of OEM hubcaps, except I'll polish the crap out of them and paint the area around the 'V' red instead of black, kind of like this:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/15/8w26.jpg

And then get some 185/65R15 redline tires, like these:

https://www.universaltire.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/194x326/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/u/v/uvt-bfg-205-65r15-redline_radial-u530280_3.jpg

If my estimations are correct, that should look pretty neat while still maintaining a very mid-60s appearance.

[thesameguy]

I'm having trouble imagining redstripe tires on the white car, but it sure sounds good in concept!

You might consider finding a good retro 15" or even 16" wheel to use, just because decent <16" tires are an effing PITA to find. The 122 has a very timeless shape, I think it can wear modern-er wheels pretty well.

[novicius]

I think that's a badassed idea -- the red lines will look good!

[Yeti]

At the shop right now, getting new front bushings pressed in. And new balljoints, just because might as well while the control arms are out.

*twiddle*

Looks like it's supposed to be in the 60s and sunny by this time next week!

[thesameguy]

Yeah, it's warm here too - about time to break out the Fleetwood again!

[Yeti]

w000! got it back today. Front end is now very tight-feeling. Bonus is that the steering wheel is no longer going noticeably left (like, at a 30 degree angle) while driving straight. And here I thought the alignment was just completely off :lol:

[Yeti]

Trunk has some surface rust, and one teeny hole, thanks to a combination of a leaky trunk seal and Volvo's crappy tar-like insulation. Replaced the seal with some generic stuff from RockAuto (works great at keeping water out!), ground things down, and hit all of the needed spots with POR15. Good product.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7146/26799393812_1cd5b518fa_b.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7181/26799392152_f867a51d47_b.jpg

I've had the carpets out and the floors managed to escape that fate. All of the funky Volvo insulation stuff is gone from that already, and it's been sealed with something else.

[George]

A set of KronPrinz steel wheels, which are identical to the ones on the car, except 1.5 inches wider, nearly all of which is lip:

http://www.networksvolvoniacs.org/images/thumb/4/4f/185_65_vorn.JPG/800px-185_65_vorn.JPG

If I haven't said it before, I LOVE this thread. and the one about the Roadmaster as well.

I'd love to find some steel wheels with those "humps" to which I could attach hubcaps. Those seem to have disappeared with the passage of time.

Yeti, thanks for your posts and pictures. I enjoy 'em!

[novicius]

Yep nice work! :up: :up:

[Yeti]

http://i.imgur.com/CN1DB8u.jpg

I found this before shot from after me wire-brushing everything down. Nothing cancerous, just surface rust from moisture getting trapped under that nasty insulation/sound deadening/whatever it was.

Interestingly, someone else had previously removed all of that stuff from the interior floors and put down some kind of sealant over them, so they're pristine. Hats off to you, former Volvo owner guy.

[novicius]

Very nice -- hell, I have to do that to my all-Wisconsin Mustang! :lol:

[21Kid]

I used this stuff (http://smile.amazon.com/3M-03584-Professional-Rubberized-Undercoating/dp/B002H9CMCQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462810983&sr=8-2&keywords=sound+dampening+spray), when I was sound damping my RS. It worked really good for sound and moisture. Could be something similar.

3M Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating 03584 helps protect the undercarriage of cars, trucks, vans and recreational vehicles from both corrosion and abrasion. The coating may also be used to protect wheel wells, quarter panels, interior side of fenders, door skins, under side of the hood and trunk lid, floor pans, and more. The rubberized undercoating also helps deaden noise, allowing for a more pleasant and quieter ride.

[thesameguy]

Very interesting! How clean does the area have to be to spray?

[Godson]

It doesn't have to be super clean. The cleaner it is though, the better the life product.

If you can paint it, use por15. If you can't, use the spray

[21Kid]

Yeah, I just used a spray cleaner and rag to clean it.

[Yeti]

The stuff in my interior floor is clear and hard and was applied with a brush. I wonder if it's some kind of adhesive used to stick the jute to the floor when they replaced the carpets. Except, whoever put it on made a point to cover EVERYTHING with it, and it has sealed the floor very effectively from the inside.


I used this stuff (http://smile.amazon.com/3M-03584-Professional-Rubberized-Undercoating/dp/B002H9CMCQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462810983&sr=8-2&keywords=sound+dampening+spray), when I was sound damping my RS. It worked really good for sound and moisture. Could be something similar.

That black stuff in my trunk was more like some kind of tar/cloth stuff. It's visible on the sides and near the shock mounts in the trunk shots. Crappy stuff.

[Yeti]

Yesterday I did something very minor but extremely satisfying. I grabbed my screwdrivers, and wrenches, and spent the entire day tightening and adjusting every single piece of the interior attached with screws, bolts, or nuts.

My car is now 100% devoid of rattles or noises. It's even quieter in that regard than the Roadblaster now. Granted, having a tighter interior than a 90s GM product isn't a great achievement, but still. Now the car is tight as a drum and quiet inside and out. No interior, suspension, or drivetrain noises. So nice to drive.


Also, quitting my job on the 20th to go back to school! Whee! Maybe I'll put a furnace in the garage and work on the car in the evenings :lol:

Also, update on this. School's done, ASOPE second-class steam license get. I applied for a job with the city last saturday and as of today they've contacted me twice and set up an interview. Not even Target got back to me that fast when I worked there a decade ago :lol: Fingers crossed!

[21Kid]

Nice!!! on both counts. :rawk:

[novicius]

Excellent!! :up:

The Yellow Menace sounds like pieces of styrofoam in a shaking Rubbermaid bin -- surrounded by Lego. :lol:

[Yeti]

:lol: Old domestic interiors.

The Roadmaster sounds like an ice cream bucket full of poker chips being shaken

[thesameguy]

The Fiero is pretty much silent - the only sound it makes is a little squeak from the poly strut bushings when I blow a launch, audible because the strut top is literally 12 inches from your head. Normally, though, whatever sound that bushing is making is drowned out by 3.4l of pushrod madness rampaging through a Flowmaster 40-series that's about three feet from your head.

(We will not discuss the XR, because it sounds like a peanut butter jar full of fake fingernails inside a clothes dryer set to Bedding/Heavy Duty.)

[novicius]

Obviously Andr00z needs to cut the mufflers off the Roadblaster. #problemsolved

[Yeti]

But what you really mean is that the LT1 needs a set of longtubes, a cat delete, and an X-pipe that exits into straight pipes?

[novicius]

Well yes but that requires actual money. :lol:

[thesameguy]

Word.

[21Kid]

The mental images of all of these different combinations is amusing! :up:

[Yeti]

Interviewed for the job this morning.

Just got offered the job 20 minutes ago.

HOW I ROLL.

[thesameguy]

MO MONEY!!!!!

[novicius]

:up: :up:

Now you gonna shop for a house next? ;)

[Yeti]

yeah, probably in a year or so. my down payment money from the first time around went to school and living expenses for when I was at school.

[speedpimp]

Congrats.

[Random]

:up: :up:

[21Kid]

W00t!!! Congrats!:rawk:

[Yeti]

Thanks, everyone! I start on the 20th :D

[Yeti]

So, it turns out that the rear drums on these cars don't have self-adjusters.

They've got 'adjust it yourself, buddy' adjusters. I thought I had a brake hydraulic problem since my pedal was dropping so low and my handbrake had stopped working. Nope, just needed a few turns of the brake adjusters, which have handy square bolt heads that stick out through the backing plates on the rear end.

[Leon]

they had those on the old Mini's too, to keep you on your toes though, they made the end out of butter, and the shaft out of the material most likely to seize ;)

[Yeti]

I hit mine with Kroil before trying to turn them and used an offset HVAC service valve wrench to turn them. Everything moved smoothly, which was a relief.

[Yeti]

http://i.imgur.com/ALls8QO.jpg?1

I bet the Karmann is way faster :lol:

[JoshInKC]

Very sexy.

[21Kid]

It does have racing stripes!!!

[speedpimp]

It does have racing stripes!!!

Weitere Streifen bedeutet mehr Leistung.

[21Kid]

Of course

[novicius]

Oh wow, nice pic! :D :up:

[Yeti]

FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

Took the car to work yesterday. Went over some bumps and something in the driver's door went *Snap-crumble-clatter* and then my driver's side window glass dropped about 6 inches :(

The window is held up with tape for now. I'm going to disassemble the door in a week or two and figure out what broke, then probably just leave it until spring.

[21Kid]

Good thing it's not winter.

[Yeti]

Where the car stands right now:

1. Driver's door still disassembled. I should have the cable to fix it within 2 weeks but fuck if I'm working on it in this weather.

2. Front carb has a slightly loose throttle shaft. The rear carb's is practically fucking oval. Big air leak there. The carbs are going to have to come off and be sent to someone with the equipment to ream/re-sleeve/etc the carb body. The one expert carb ninja guy who is known for doing it right every time...is currently not taking on more SU rebuild jobs :lol:

I have a feeling the car won't see any action this coming summer :(

Old cars? More like LOLd cars.

[novicius]

There seem to be more than a few SU rebuilding/polishing/lathe-ing services on the Google.

Paltech Technologies LLC (http://www.paltech1.com/index.html)

British Classic Motors (http://britishclassicmotors.com/2901.html)

Pricey but doable. :|

[thesameguy]

Redblock swap.

Just do it.

[Yeti]

I got my window parts finally, now I just need a decent day to install them.

I've been calling around on the carbs. If I wait around for Joe Curto the car is going to sit for like 2 years.

I'm going to buy a set of rebuilds outright from Paltech instead of providing him with my cores to rebuild. The price is literally exactly the same once you factor out me not having to ship carbs to him, so I figure why not have 2 sets. Plus the turnaround will be much quicker.

[Yeti]

The window is finally fixed! w00!!

I also got my new carbs on Friday. They are shiny:

http://i.imgur.com/C0yFL6L.jpg

I've also since learned that my car has the wrong damned carbs on it :lol: The carbs it came with when I bought it are later-style HS6's, with 3 bolts holding the air cleaners on, a different throttle return spring arrangement, and a poppet on the throttle butterflies that does IDK what. So, looks like the original carbs are long gone.

But, the new carbs are the appropriate style for my car, and luckily all I have to do to make them work on my car is replace their choke cable clamps (the ones on the carbs are clamps, the style I need for my cables are just a slip-on clip), get some new gaskets and longer bolts for my air cleaners, and get the correct style of throttle return springs. All ordered from IPD already, except the bolts which will be provided by Ace Hardware, the old Volvo owner's best friend.

[novicius]

Really not sounding like a guy who's gonna sell it. ;) :up: #keepitforever

[Yeti]

oh yeah, I decided to hang onto it.

Also, prices on these are on the rise. Thanks, BaT! :lol:

[thesameguy]

Those look really nice!

[Yeti]

I've decided I don't want the steel wheels. I'm going to order some 15x6/5x4.5 versions of these:

http://www.gbcarparts.com/prodimages/vto137.jpg

[thesameguy]

Yep, that's the right answer. :D

[Yeti]

Got a Euro car? YOU NEED A EURO PLATE BRO.

http://i.imgur.com/l0tJQSo.jpg

#HELLAFLUSHBRO #STANCENATIONBRO #FLATBRIMCAPBRO #SKINNYJEANSBRO #DOYOUEVENVAPEBRO #MYGIRLFRIENDSITSINTHECARANDLOOKSATHERCELLPHONEWHE NWEGOTOCARMEETSBRO

[novicius]

:up: :up:

When do the bags go in? :cool:

[Yeti]

The same day I buy a vape pen :p

[speedpimp]

#HERLARRYASS

[Yeti]

http://i.imgur.com/gapbaY9.jpg

Well, that explains the sudden loss of steering responsiveness I suffered while driving the car last fall :lol: It's crumpled, ovaled out, and split in two places (LIKE EVERY PERSON I'VE EVER BANGED)

http://i.imgur.com/xPgmPym.jpg

Modern materials and a schnazzy color! :up:

[thesameguy]

Any chance you could measure the center to center of the old one? It looks remarkably like what's in the XR, which I have not been able to find a replacement for!

[Godson]

Have you checked the sizes on an e36? They use them, and they daily all the time.

[Yeti]

I already chucked it, but it was so stretched out it wouldn't have been accurate anyway. That picture doesn't completely do justice to the terribleness of the old one, if you can believe that :lol:

The replacement I used is an EMPI piece meant for VW's, but it also fits Volvo 122s and apparently 1987 Suzuki Samurais. (https://www.amazon.com/Empi-16-5150-Urethane-Steering-Coupler/dp/B00BYHFVHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491109202&sr=8-1&keywords=EMPI+steering+coupler)

[thesameguy]

For $8 it's worth the experiment. Thanks!

[Yeti]

I've read a couple of stories about the poly ones crumbling, but a common thread there seems to be poor column alignment and/or installation. Still, I'm going to keep a close eye on it once the car is on the road again.

http://i.imgur.com/A8mvl3j.jpg

Carbs are off, and the studs are pulled. Now I need to enjoy that extra space to get the generator off and install the alternator. And then find some longer carb studs for my spacers. But, I've run out of motivation for this weekend.

[thesameguy]

I would pretty much guarantee it'll crumble. Poly works nicely on suspension parts but typically doesn't put up with heat or petro chemicals for very long. But, you know, for $8 on a weekend car it's probably not much of a concern. ;)

[Yeti]

I ordered new longer studs to mount the carbs with the spacers.

They arrived and the coarse threaded ends that go into the manifold are longer than what was pictured *grumble*

Six of them will work fine but two bottom out in the manifold before they're fully in. I guess I'll have to use bolts on those two.

[thesameguy]

Hacksaw or Dremel the end off, use a die to fix the threads?

[Yeti]

Worked on installing the alternator today.

SWEM's bracket kit is really good, fits perfectly.

What wasn't so perfect is the fact that they belt they recommend (Gates 7360 or equivalent) isn't long enough on my car.

Scratched my head for a minute, and then I realized that my car has a non-original 2-groove crank pulley quite a bit larger than the single-groove pulley it would've left the factory with. It was required to drive the dealer-installed AC my car had. DOH!

[thesameguy]

You could measure the size of the pulley, or just add a few digits to the belt part number and try... a 7380 would be the same width but two inches longer, etc.

[Yeti]

7370 was the one!

I got an extra ground strap for the alternator too. In theory it should be grounded through the bracket but you can't have too good a ground there.

[thesameguy]

I have always used an auxiliary ground on alternators and never had charging problems. You just never know exactly what the ground path is otherwise, and I like to be in control. :D

With a good alternator, you should consider buying or making a headlight relay harness if you haven't already. 14v straight through good relays = ultra bright headlights. I think the Falcon has some of the brightest headlights of the entire fleet!

Edit: Also, Gates part numbers always irk me because it's their own silly designations... I usually buy Continental belts because their part numbers are obviously metric, eg 15330 belt = 15 series x 330mm. YEAH!

[Yeti]

http://i.imgur.com/LjiMtMy.jpg

I have to admit, I'm super-pleased with the SWEM alternator kit. It's very complete and has everything you need save the new alt and belt. Everything bolts right in and lines up perfectly, save that curve I had to put into the upper bracket (which they say you have to do in the instructions).

I give it two thumbs up :up: :up:

[thesameguy]

Is that a GM or Ford alternator in there? I think GM?

[Yeti]

GM.

[novicius]

Tidy! :up:

How did you put that curve into the bracket?

[Yeti]

Bench vise + hand sledge

[novicius]

Ah BFH, got it. :up:

[Yeti]

http://i.imgur.com/coumS8q.jpg

New charging system is all wired up. I promise to un-fuck my wiring routing at some point. By some point, I mean before I'm dead. I put a SWEM rebuilt fuse block in too. It's a lot more robust than the original.

If you're wondering why my MegaFuse is mounted crooked, it's because it fit into holes that were already there and I decided a crooked fuse was preferable to drilling more holes.

[novicius]

ICY COLD STUNNA! :hard:

[JoshInKC]

That engine bay is fucking adorable - Just so simple and clean.

[Yeti]

FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

Well, I thought I'd be starting the car this weekend, but I can't get the carbs mounted.

I've found a different supplier who actually gives the overall lengths AND threaded lengths on the studs they sell so now the next ones I get will actually be long enough :lol:

[thesameguy]

You can always hit up McMaster-Carr for that stuff - their catalog is easy to navigate and read.

[CudaMan]

Um, holy cow. So much room!

[Yeti]

https://www.facebook.com/andy.peterson.792/posts/10100479143211808

First start. Of course one of my new carbs had a bad float/needle :roll:

Still need to adjust mixture and idle though.

I've got 13.7 volts at the battery at idle. But, the battery was almost completely dead due to all the cranking while figuring out various issues, and the belt was slipping so I'm sure that's the issue there.

[Yeti]

Carbs, spacers, and alternator kit all installed:

http://i.imgur.com/XUYxStf.jpg

And a period-correct Swedish front license plate, for mad #vapedouche cred:

http://i.imgur.com/t0AXRal.jpg?1

So far I've had to deal with my 'rebuilt' carbs having one faulty float/needle, and one sticky throttle shaft. Great. :o Still, managed to drive it around for several hours today without any drama.

[JoshInKC]

Cute.
Whats the short upright cylinder on top of the wiring harness at the back corner of the driver's side inner fenderwell?

[Random]

Old skool relay. google seems to think it's for the reverse lights.

[JoshInKC]

Ahh, I was thinking relay (or maybe a flasher?), but couldn't think of a reason one would be in that location.

[Random]

It does seem pretty random.

[Godson]

It does seem pretty random.


It IS swedish...

[speedpimp]

It does seem pretty random.

I see what you did there.

[Yeti]

I regret buying a VDO volt gauge that goes to 16v.

Because my GM alt makes the usual GM 14.7 so my gauge is always pegged at 15, almost to the end of the gauge.

*Looks to see how much voltage he has.*

"YOU GOT ALL THE VOLTAGE, MUFUGGA!"

[Yeti]

Was planning to go to a car show tomorrow.

Did not plan on my starter dying today :lol:

At least a brand new one is only $56 from Amazon Prime.

[thesameguy]

Probably a cinch to change, too!

[Yeti]

Two wires and two fasteners :D

I suppose the cheapness part is the fact that EVERY RWD Volvo and EVERY Volvo marine engine from like the 1940s until the last RWD Volvo rolled off the line in the 90s used the same starter. :lol:

[Yeti]

My new starter is a little noisier than the old one, but has a ton more torque.

[novicius]

:hard:

[Yeti]

Since I'm up late watching an upload of the Spence-Brook fight from earlier tonight, this is as good a time as any to mention that when I was putting the starter on today, I noticed my clutch fork return spring had snapped :lol: I forgot to post that earlier.

This fucking car.

[neanderthal]

Old cars. It's always something.

[Yeti]

Hey, it turns out choke cables and by extension the chokes themselves work better when they're attached to the carburetors in the correct manner. Who knew?!

[thesameguy]

Sounds like FAKE NEWS to me.

[Yeti]

Installed my XR700 ignition conversion today. Very easy to install. Installed a new cap, rotor, coil, and spark plugs while I was at it.

But I can't attempt to start the car because I accidentally broke two of the ignition wires pulling them off the old cap. REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!

I guess that's what I get for buying $7 ignition wires :lol:

[thesameguy]

But think of what you saved buying $7 ignition wires!

[Yeti]

I took it to a local Cars and Coffee in Kenosha. The show was mostly just Mustangs and Camaros with middle-aged mustaches at the wheels, but the organizers took a nice shot of my car.

2432

And since the show was at a classic car dealership at a warehouse, there were a few neat things in their inventory.

2433

[novicius]

Noice. :up:

When are the bags going in? :D

[thesameguy]

Indeed.

[George]

The show was mostly just Mustangs and Camaros with middle-aged mustaches at the wheels...

Ha ha. Haven't heard that term before. :up:

[dodint]

C&C in Pittsburgh is an elitist show that has completely lost touch with the point of C&C. I would be happy if it was Mustangs/Camaros and classic oddities.

[Yeti]

Did you ever make it to Lake Mills C&C when you lived in WI? That one is exactly the kind of show a cars and coffee should be. Lots of car variety and a great atmosphere.

The Kenosha one was more like what shows used to be before cars and coffee. Scowling mustaches sitting on lawn chairs behind their cars instead of checking out other people's rides and talking cars.

[dodint]

Nah, that's probably a good two hours from Sparta.

They must have a good culture up there, though. We've dropped in on some other car shows we happened to be passing and people seemed cool.

Here is a vid of one of the 2017 Pittsburgh C&C's 'Western Pennsylvania's Premier Exotic and Modern Performance Automotive Enthusiast Group':


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXjiu2qsNQw

Nothing there for me, really. Are there any cars there from the 1900s at all? :lol:

I've read some of their organizational threads and they're always real fussy about where the exotics park and who actually is allowed to park in the premiere spots. Just seems to me that they've lost touch with the casualness of the spirit of the event. To each their own, I hope they continue to have good turnouts and have a good time. Just not a place I'd find interesting.

[Yeti]

I'm making one last attempt to sell the car and bolster my home down payment fund.

A trailer. Bring one.

[Godson]

The Volvo???

[Phil_SS]

Heh. As soon as I saw the ad I knew it was your car. I've seen the view in the driveway way too many times. :D

Good luck with the sale. :up:

[Yeti]

Hopefully it goes as well as the other 122s have on BaT.

[Godson]

:(

[CudaMan]

TheRealACP (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrew_Comrie-Picard)?

[Yeti]

lol. That guy is the reason I use 'The Real ACP' there.

I was posting at BaT (but not registered) with 'ACP' (also my initials) since BaT's beginning, but then Picard showed up a couple years later and actually registered 'ACP'.

So, when I registered my account there, since I had been using ACP on the site a lot longer than he had, I made myself 'The Real ACP' :D

[CudaMan]

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/014/033/knowing.jpg

:up:

Andrew's an awesome dude.

[FaultyMario]

Ours too.

[Yeti]

Deposited the cashier's check today. She'll be gone soon.

When I have my own garage, there's going to be a framed photo of this thing on the wall, since it will have helped pay for it :lol:

[Godson]

:(

[Yeti]

It's been a great car, but it was also my 4th Volvo. I'm ready to get away from 'em for a while.

If I buy another Volvo, it'll be another 240.

If I buy another car from the 1960s, it's going to be American.

If I buy another slow 4cylinder car that isn't a Volvo, it'll be Japanese.

[thesameguy]

SO MANY RULES.

[novicius]

Clearing the decks for this, obviously:

https://www.touringcartimes.com/img/2009/03/other09032201.jpg?w=785&h=442&fit=crop&fm=pjpg&q=80

[Yeti]

Two of the next 3 cars I'd like to buy and will need to track down are 80s/90s Nissans.

The third car I've already found, and just have to wait for it's owner to be ready to sell. It's a Cadillac :lol: Not from the 60s, though.

[Yeti]

And she's officially with her new owner in Sacramento!

[thesameguy]

Didn't know Rando was into Volvos!

[Random]

I didn't know Rando was in Sacramento!

(An Amazon would be pretty cool, tho, if I had the time and energy for an old car at the moment.)

[drew]

:lol:

[thesameguy]

This is one of the few examples of someone taking a car from a rusty state to California. It virtually never happens!

[Yeti]

This is one of the few examples of someone taking a car from a rusty state to California. It virtually never happens!


My old '81 Datsun got taken to Montana, where the idiot owner allowed it to rust like crazy, and then he sold the car and it now lives in West Covina :lol:

[thesameguy]

Man, that sucks. That was a cool car! I've sold a couple cars to people in the Midwest and I always have pangs of guilt about it. :lol: Oh well, gotta get paid! :D