The 3D Printing Thread

[thesameguy]

This stuff still really excites me, though I haven't quite found the sweet for price and output for my application. If this was back in the D&D days, I'd be cranking out miniatures like nobody's business, but those days are past. Anyway, this things sounds pretty awesome:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/gadgets/news/new-3d-printer-by-markforged-can-print-with-carbon-fiber-16428727?click=pm_latest

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/popularmechanics/images/1w/markforged-02-0114-de.jpg

$5k seems very reasonable to get started... Obviously that isn't the total cost of making functional carbon fiber parts, but it takes a significant part of the difficulty (ie craftsmanship) out of the equation.

[MR2 Fan]

That looks very promising, but as with many of these printers, I'd like to see some independent reviews when they come out.

[Freude am Fahren]

The best part about it is that it looks like a reel-to-reel player from th e70s

[SportWagon]

Memories of DECtape.

[Crazed_Insanity]

Friend of mine who recently got a 3D printer finally got around to printing the Honda emblem that I sent him. It looks decent, but not great. Plus, he only has blue material. So I don't think I'm going to put a blue badge onto my silver S2000! :p I'll probably paint it black and see how it'd look...

Anyway, I'll post some pics of his various attempts later. The plastic part is stronger than I thought. He also estimated that it only cost him a few cents to print it our for me. (Of course his cost estimate doesn't include the price of his $1000 printer)

[Sad, little man]

I've come to the realization recently that the black LOTUS lettering on the back of my car is no longer available for sale. It was aftermarket, chrome is the only factory color. So, if a letter ever falls off, I'm going to become very interested in this technology so I don't have to drive a OTUS around from then on.

[MR2 Fan]

If you have, or can make a good 3D model...shapeways.com is a great way to go if you don't own a 3D printer.

[Sad, little man]

Yeah, getting a 3D model of those letters is the only problem. I am neither inclined to pry them off to put them in a 3D scanner, nor in possession of a 3D scanner. :|

[Drachen596]

http://hackaday.com/2011/12/01/cheap-diy-laser-scanner-is-quite-impressive/

get to it.

also there are ways to use a Kinect for the same thing if you want.

[MR2 Fan]

HP launches new 3D Printer, supposedly 10X faster and prints in full(?) color.

I am currently working, so I'm going to find out more details later today, here's a basic article for now:

http://gizmodo.com/hp-goes-3d-with-a-multijet-fusion-printer-1652203781?utm_campaign=socialflow_gizmodo_twitter&utm_source=gizmodo_twitter&utm_medium=socialflow

EDIT: More info, apparently they can print a part in under 30 mins, weighing .25 pounds and able to lift 10,000 pounds :eek:

http://3dprint.com/21454/hp-3d-printer/


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTTw-x9Yzpo#t=11

[thesameguy]

Yeah, shit is getting real. With HP and Dremel in the market, these things are being clearly targeted at regular folk. I suspect they will start getting better much faster. Hopefully bigger, too! ;)

[MR2 Fan]

Yeah, shit is getting real. With HP and Dremel in the market, these things are being clearly targeted at regular folk. I suspect they will start getting better much faster. Hopefully bigger, too! ;)

Well, the Dremel one is actually just a rebranded existing 3D printer of, what I've been told, average quality. The HP one however is completely new.

[thesameguy]

I think the "guts" of the Dremel are a rebrand, but I don't think the unit itself it. It has some neat features that others don't.

[MR2 Fan]

I think the "guts" of the Dremel are a rebrand, but I don't think the unit itself it. It has some neat features that others don't.

Nope, it's a rebrand:

http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/3d-printers/flashforge-dreamer-dual-extrusion-3d-printer.html/

[G'day Mate]

I want to 3D print this:

903

[Godson]

Aren't they 'printing' metal bits from metal dust? Is that process not able from the plastics side?

[MR2 Fan]

Aren't they 'printing' metal bits from metal dust? Is that process not able from the plastics side?

I'm not sure how useful printing plastic from powder would be. They have a way to extrude filament from plastic pellets and there's a few machines that will make the pellets by grinding plastic waste, like water bottles, etc.

[overpowered]

One of the more awesome uses of 3D printing is having a 3D printer in a place where it's hard to transport physical goods, like the space station:

http://www.iflscience.com/space/how-nasa-emailed-wrench-space

[MR2 Fan]

I want to 3D print this:

903

http://3dprint.com/32059/3d-racetracks-3d-prints-models/

[G'day Mate]

http://3dprint.com/32059/3d-racetracks-3d-prints-models/

Thank you! I'll have to get in touch with these guys

[Kchrpm]

http://www.shapeways.com/model/1926912/circuit-of-the-americas-topographic.html?li=shop-results&materialId=26

http://www.shapeways.com/model/2231725/mid-ohio-indycar.html?li=shop-results&materialId=26

I don't know what I'd do with them...

[Kchrpm]

I'd put little Corvette race car models inside/around this one http://www.shapeways.com/model/2855888/le-mans-circuit-de-la-sarthe-topographic-large.html?li=shop-results&materialId=26

Nice find :up:

[Phil_SS]

bitchin!

http://www.shapeways.com/model/1990918/pittsburgh-vintage-grand-prix-schenly-park-track.html?li=shop-results&materialId=26

They also make a topographic. Because Pittsburgh.

http://www.shapeways.com/model/2154918/pittsburgh-vintage-grand-prix-topographic-map.html?li=shop-results&materialId=26

[thesameguy]

This is, more or less, unbeatable:

http://makezine.com/magazine/hands-on-health-care/?utm_source=hackernewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_term=fav

[21Kid]

Awesome!

[Godson]

Yup. For all of the cool stuff we are going to use 3d printing with cars and manufacturing. Medical is going to be the best.


Imagine not needing to have a donor for a heart, or a lung. Imagine after the transplant not having to take immunosuppressants, antirejection, and other extremely expensive meds to stay alive. Literally printing organs is around the corner. This stuff is insanely awesome.

[thesameguy]

If this ends up working out, it'll be pretty cool too!

http://the3doodler.com/

[MR2 Fan]

If this ends up working out, it'll be pretty cool too!

http://the3doodler.com/

You realize that's the second version and the first one has been out for almost a year....one of my friends has one. It's cool, but not quite as easy to use as I'd hoped.

[SportWagon]

Yup. For all of the cool stuff we are going to use 3d printing with cars and manufacturing. Medical is going to be the best.


Imagine not needing to have a donor for a heart, or a lung. Imagine after the transplant not having to take immunosuppressants, antirejection, and other extremely expensive meds to stay alive. Literally printing organs is around the corner. This stuff is insanely awesome.

Hmm. Is that why you use the handle Godson?

[Godson]

Actually no.

That's another story entirely and from a time when I was religious. I have just kept it around since for some unknown reason.

[thesameguy]

You realize that's the second version and the first one has been out for almost a year....one of my friends has one. It's cool, but not quite as easy to use as I'd hoped.

Yep, and the 2nd generation of the product is supposed to fix many of the usability issues of the 1st gen. The 1st gen was almost unusable due to inconsistent heating and feeding, not to mention the bulk. The 2nd gen is looking pretty rad if it does what they claim it can.

[Alan P]

Could a 3D printer print something like a Shower head? I know you'd need a rubber washer.

[Godson]

Yeah. Thatd be easy to do

[thesameguy]

I don't know you'd be able to get good water flow through such a thing though - resolution on 3D printers is still pretty bad.

[MR2 Fan]

I don't know you'd be able to get good water flow through such a thing though - resolution on 3D printers is still pretty bad.

It depends...there's some pretty decent resolution ones available, especially if you don't mind waiting a looong time to print it...also Form 1

http://www.3ders.org/images/formlabs-3d-printer-Neptune-Black.jpg

[Crazed_Insanity]

Elon Musk is printing rocket engines. Surely 3D printers can/will be able to print shower heads.

[thesameguy]

Okay, I should qualify my statement - consumer grade 3D printers probably don't have the resolution to print nozzles. Certainly industrial printers and/or printers that print in things other than plastic exist which can do this.

[thesameguy]

...also tiny plastic penis.

FTFY.

[MR2 Fan]

Okay, I should qualify my statement - consumer grade 3D printers probably don't have the resolution to print nozzles. Certainly industrial printers and/or printers that print in things other than plastic exist which can do this.

Consumer grade depends on your definition.

IMO the Form1 (now Form1+, improved version) is consumer grade, it's $3,300 and is considered a "home" 3D printer and doesn't cost much more than other home 3D printers using regular FDM

[thesameguy]

Well, then print us up a nozzle. I don't think it will work.

[MR2 Fan]

Well, then print us up a nozzle. I don't think it will work.

I don't understand what's so complicated about a nozzle, unless you're just being a douchenozzle :p

Also, the Form 1+ is an SLA printer that uses "lasers"

Here's another comparison shot between the regular FDM printers (Makerbot for example) and the Form 1

http://s3files.core77.com/blog/images/2012/09/Formlabs-FORM1-comparison.jpg

[thesameguy]

I would only look at the market place, and note that any decent, long-lasting showerhead has metal nozzles. I suspect there is a reason why that is true.

[MR2 Fan]

You mentioned that 3D printing a nozzle wasn't going to work, didn't say anything about long-lasting ;)

Anyway, I might post some more info here as a quick overview of 3D printing for those interested.

[MR2 Fan]

This one is very interesting!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiPQpiE4_qY

[thesameguy]

Is that thing based on that once motorsports company's prototype?

[Drachen596]

http://3dprintingindustry.com/2014/09/23/sub-4000-metal-3d-printer/


metal 3d printing.. not cheap however. incidentally, i watched something on How Its Made where they used a 3d printer to make drawer handles from metal and then finished them off with another process as the 3d printer didn't print completely solid.

[MR2 Fan]

http://3dprintingindustry.com/2014/09/23/sub-4000-metal-3d-printer/


metal 3d printing.. not cheap however. incidentally, i watched something on How Its Made where they used a 3d printer to make drawer handles from metal and then finished them off with another process as the 3d printer didn't print completely solid.

That project crashed and burned...they basically took it off kickstarter after a week or so as it was very vague and they couldn't answer any questions people were asking

[Kchrpm]

http://gizmodo.com/new-liquid-3d-printing-system-is-25-times-faster-than-i-1691865330


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74BjdHDJeE0

[Crazed_Insanity]

Wow! Just pull it out of the thin puddle of water like magic! Very cool!

[thesameguy]

UNPOSSIBLE.

[MR2 Fan]

Yeah, I saw that yesterday....incredible. I don't know how well that would scale up...might only be good for smaller objects but we'll see.

[MR2 Fan]

Some industry news....former (?) industry leader and all around crap company Makerbot has laid off 20% of its work force, 100 employees and closed all 3 of its retail stores.

I guess the fact that people don't want $4,000 to $8,000 door stops has finally started to catch up with them. Seriously, after the Replicator 2, the newer ones have had nothing but problems from everything I've heard. The hot end/extruders have to be replaced constantly, so they decided to capitalize on this by offering a really expensive 3-pack kit to replace them!

Since this is technical, let me explain this is equivalent of having to replace the timing belt of your car every 5,000 miles and having your car maker charge $100 for a 3 pack replacement.

They've also taken a lot of heat by trying to patent some of the free information people have posted on their thingiverse website.

[SportWagon]

http://replicatorinc.com/blog/2009/07/manufacturing-toys-from-the-60s-thingmaker-and-vac-u-form/

Actually, while reading the LEGO (http://gtxforums.net/showthread.php?76-LEGO) thread, I'd wondered if 3D printing could be combined with the LEGO hobby to provide obscure parts for specialized (near one-off) purposes.

[MR2 Fan]

http://replicatorinc.com/blog/2009/07/manufacturing-toys-from-the-60s-thingmaker-and-vac-u-form/

Actually, while reading the LEGO (http://gtxforums.net/showthread.php?76-LEGO) thread, I'd wondered if 3D printing could be combined with the LEGO hobby to provide obscure parts for specialized (near one-off) purposes.

If? that's one of the easiest things you can do with a 3D printer

[speedpimp]

Print your own Toyota engine and tranny. (http://autoweek.com/article/car-life/watch-3d-printed-toyota-model-engine-and-transmission?utm_source=DailyDrive20150429&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=headline-center&utm_content=body&utm_campaign=awdailydrive)

[G'day Mate]

Print GPX files (http://gpxtruder.xyz/)!!!

[Drachen596]

http://tekventure.org/ This place just opened in their own space finally.

they currently have a 3d printer, 3d scanner, laser engraver/cutter and a vacuforming machine. thats along with a graphics/media area for making music, videos and such.

they're planning to add more stuff as well. http://wane.com/2015/03/14/full-service-maker-lab-opens-in-broadway-corridor/

[thesameguy]

Do they have a vacuum former that can do pieces larger than 12x12? THAT'S WHAT I WANT TO KNOW.

[overpowered]

http://3dprint.com/67280/lewihe-play-cheapest-3d-print/

[MR2 Fan]

As for the parts not included, which customers will need to get for themselves, they are as follows:

3 Nema 14 motors & 1 Nema 17 motor
Standard metric screws
6 units of 624zz bearings
10 units of LM6UU bearings
Pulleys and gt2 belts
Electronics, such as Ramps
Hot end
External power supply – 12V 4A


So you basically get a case for $77 :twitch:

[overpowered]

http://mx3d.com/

http://mx3d.com/projects/bridge/

[MR2 Fan]

"World's First 3D Printed Supercar"

http://www.3ders.org//articles/20150624-world-first-3d-printed-modular-supercar-built-node-technology-platform.html

[Godson]

Those nodes don't appear to offer any real strength IMO based on the amount of joints and stuff.

[MR2 Fan]

Those nodes don't appear to offer any real strength IMO based on the amount of joints and stuff.

same thought as well. I'd like to see some actual testing on those.

[MR2 Fan]

Recently I've seriously considered buying the Formlabs Form 1+ printer.

I've decided I want to design custom watches and this will help greatly with the process. I can either sell them just 3D printed if people are interested (FormLabs has a new tough resin which is very strong) or I can have a mold made for actual gold/silver looking parts.

I can also print things for other people and since it's super high resolution, those can be premium parts.

The price is $3,300 new, but I've seen several used ones going for less than $2,500.

A few advantages are that the slicing software is apparently VERY simple to use compared to FDM printers and there's practically no need to change alignment of the printer, etc. which is a huge problem with FDM printers. It's very "plug and play", with most of the work coming in post processing of the part and keeping everything clean.

Yes, I owned a Printrbot simple before, got frustrated and sold it, but that's like comparing a Yugo to a Ferrari.

http://formlabs.com/static/formlabs-web-frontend/img/products/form1plus/loupe-prints-dark@2x.jpg?62ae67d

[MR2 Fan]

Formlabs fixes a lot of issues, increases build volume and makes what looks like a much better printer, for only $200 more than the old one.

http://formlabs.com/products/3d-printers/form-2/#form-2

[thesameguy]

Hey MR2, you know anything about this device?

http://www.newark.com/robox/rbx01-bu/build-volume/dp/82X7299?ost=robox&categoryId=800000014507&CMP=e-email-FTD-wk3Nov-Robox&et_cid=26482693&et_rid=1197509347&linkid=http%3a%2f%2fwww.newark.com%2frobox%2frbx01-bu%2fbuild-volume%2fdp%2f82X7299%3fost%3drobox%26categoryId%3 d800000014507%26CMP%3de-email-FTD-wk3Nov-Robox&cmp=

[MR2 Fan]

It's the first I've heard of that one, but this is an interesting review:

http://www.cnet.com/products/robox-3d-printer/

[thesameguy]

Hmmm... indeed. I don't mind no PC-less printing - I never used that on an inkjet and sure as shit wouldn't on a 3D printer, but those calibration issues sound like an annoyance. The company whose page I linked to has been a good resource for me and they tend to stand behind what they sell and that's what intrigued me. But, it's the first 3D printer they've carried so they just may not know what they're doing yet. Or, it could be their intended application is for rapid prototyping and final-product quality ultimately isn't their #1 priority.

[MR2 Fan]

Hmmm... indeed. I don't mind no PC-less printing - I never used that on an inkjet and sure as shit wouldn't on a 3D printer, but those calibration issues sound like an annoyance. The company whose page I linked to has been a good resource for me and they tend to stand behind what they sell and that's what intrigued me. But, it's the first 3D printer they've carried so they just may not know what they're doing yet. Or, it could be their intended application is for rapid prototyping and final-product quality ultimately isn't their #1 priority.


Most FDM printers are very similar as far as hardware, it just has to do with quality of components (sounds like PC's no?).

Ultimaker is IMO the best brand on the market, but also more pricey, but so far its proven to be the most reliable, and best quality from most reviews.

Then there's the aforementioned FormLabs 2 if you need super small detail

[thesameguy]

I am not there yet, but I'm nearly at wit's end with stupid plastic bits on the XR so I've got renewed interest in a 3D printer. I had an epiphany the other day that might dramatically simplify some of the things I want to do so I was checking out the current state of the art. I really need to make a welder a 2015 priority, but after that I think I'm out of expensive tools I "need" (aka, have a realistic use for) and a 3D printer is up. ;)

[overpowered]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yu_zVre0k4

[MR2 Fan]

Some CES intros of 3D printers.

Mcor, a professional 3D Printing company specializing in FULL color 3D prints using standard copy paper as the medium has unveiled their first desktop model, priced around $9,000 US

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2016/01/mcor-arke-full-color-desktop-3d-printer.html


Ultimaker has improved their Ultimaker 2 with some minor changes, and I still want one.

There's also another 3D printed car on display, which I found on this video but haven't had time to research it yet:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=y7j12pKzh2s

[MR2 Fan]

CORRECTION: The new MCOR desktop printer is $5,995, which is actually really good for full color objects that don't need fine detail or to be used as mechanical parts.

Here's a sample of what their printouts look like on the pro version and I'm guessing similar on this one

http://www.wired.com/images_blogs/design/2012/11/mcor_skull1.jpeg

http://3dprint.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/mcor-1.png

[Random]

3D prints of all the D&D monsters: http://twinfinite.net/2016/01/dd-gamer/

:up:

[thesameguy]

So good! :up:

[overpowered]

Strictly speaking, not a 3D printer, but a precision laser cutter/etcher which you can use to make parts of 3D things.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysCaqh38JVQ

[speedpimp]

Those monsters are bad ass.

[MR2 Fan]

I like the technology, I don't like the term "3D Laser Printer" as I think it's disingenuous

[thesameguy]

I need that. That makes WAY more sense to me (for me!) than an actual 3D printer. Being able to sort of CNC sheet metal would be huge. Need to find how thick it can cut through!

[thesameguy]

Also, kudos to them for getting "3d printer" and "laser printer" into their product description. Ace use of tech buzzwords.

[MR2 Fan]

3D Printed parts are now orbiting Jupiter

http://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/12572/Junos-3D-Printed-Parts-Survive-Trip-to-Jupiter.aspx?ENGCOM=

[MR2 Fan]

METAL :hard: 3D printing is now becoming MUCH more available:

https://markforged.com/markforged-metal-3d-printer-ces-2017/

[thesameguy]

Need to move this into the Tech section.

I've been slowly catching up on this stuff - done a few good prints and a couple disasters. I need to find an adequate modelling software so I can start using my printer productively. ;)

[Drachen596]

Car with lots of 3d Printed metal chassis bits. I think this is pretty awesome. Wonder if they could make multiple car/suv models at some point and just 3d print the whole chassis in some sort of an on demand process.


http://newatlas.com/divergent-3d-printing-vehicles/46458/?li_source=LI&li_medium=default-widget

[MR2 Fan]

METAL :hard: 3D printing is now becoming MUCH more available:

https://markforged.com/markforged-metal-3d-printer-ces-2017/

Update...it's not quite as "cheap" as I expected, just under $100,000

...but give it a few years...technology is moving RAPIDLY

[thesameguy]

I have found the first Thing I "need" to make that I think is simple enough it's both within my and my printer's capability.

I am going to [try and] make an enclosure for this:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81hWfSkx-fL._SX522_.jpg

There is a very similar device that has an enclosure on Thingiverse -

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:909851/#files

so I am going to try and remix it.

The last time I did any 3D modeling was in '93, when I pirated a version of some program that does not exist anymore and couldn't figure it out. :lol:

I am not sure what I'm doing, but I'm downloading Sketchup Make and we'll see how that goes. Hopefully, not terribly.

I've got about eight to ten hours of server updates to do tonight, so hopefully plenty of time to wrap my shitty brain around new stuff.

[thesameguy]

That was a dumb idea. Apparently importing STL files is really hit or miss, with a lot of extra miss. No way to scale pieces of the model. Bah. This is hard.

[Godson]

Bah. Life is hard.

FTFY

[thesameguy]

My reach exceeds my grasp.

But, I did learn some stuff so far, and after a bunch of false starts actually produced a solid starting point.

2174

It doesn't look like much, but it represents like three hours of my life.

I have a better understanding of the tools, and realize with cold clarity how hard complicated shapes are going to be. It's a whole way of thinking I'm going to have to come to terms with.

But, I think this doodad will be an excellent prototype - kinda can't wait to print it out in the next couple days.

[thesameguy]

Man, it feels really good to know that all those years of college getting my Mech E are finally paying off.

Oh, wait, I never went. I have no idea what I am doing.

2175

2176

Is this mechanically sound? I don't know.
Will it print? I don't know.
If it assembles as intended, and it prints as intended, will it even fit? I don't know.

It's all a grand experiment, but I am feeling pretty good at my ability to produce generally orthogonal shapes in Sketchup.

[Kchrpm]

It's been so long since I used a 3D modeling software (12 years?), but I hope those models weren't very hard. Is it not just draw/dimension a 2D shape and then extrude or intrude it?

[thesameguy]

Producing the drawings isn't hard (overlooking accurate measurements, mechanical stability) but getting the drawing through the slicer successfully requires some cleanup that I just wasn't prepared for. Even after thinking I'd nailed it my first two prints of the top were terrible - just nonsensical output. I just forked over the money for Simplify3D, because it will actually animate the print head so you can see what will happen. Even though the drawing looked perfect in Sketchup and even in the damned slicer preview, the print was wrong and the animated preview showed it. I just ended up redoing the damn thing because I couldn't figure out where I'd gone wrong, what I did to confuse the slicer. My second attempt was a lot more methodical (place a piece, clean a piece) and it looks like it'll print right now.

It's been printing the bottom half for about 30 minutes, and apparently I didn't have a good enough glue layer so one corner looks a little melty. I don't think it will be any sort of problem - it's only my third actual print, and I'm just getting the hang of good bed prep. Thank Dog this particular print doesn't have any rafts or bridges, because that's still a terrible black box I haven't gotten my head around.

[Kchrpm]

Ah, gotcha. Good luck in your endeavors, I look forward to hearing more :)

[thesameguy]

This is in process - you can see the corner where the plastic didn't stick to the bed:

2178

And here is the finished product - damn near perfect!

2179

I could have made it a half mm wider, but the fit is quite nice for holding the board in place. Had I been more ambitious, I would have made some sort of support for the board... maybe in a Rev2 product, when it's not bright yellow plastic. ;)

It's working on the top now - I think it'll be alright!

[MR2 Fan]

yeah there's still lots of trial and error involved, even for the best modelers/print experts

[thesameguy]

It worked!

2182

Even the little button actuator doodads work perfectly so I can change the display and turn it on and off without removing the cover.

There was a small design problem - I screwed up one of the button "holes" during positioning and moved the top opening without moving the bottom, so the "tunnel" is at an angle. :( Since it was off by 1mm I used an Xacto to modify the finished hole and it still works fine.

Once done, I realized something I should have added were some "wings" on the side to function as strain relief for the cables that will be attached. I will do that in the Rev2 effort as well. A Rev2 was always planned, because I do want to get some black ABS for "real" prints.... but now that this has been sitting on the counter for a bit I'm starting to like the yellow... I won't lose it!

Next thing I want to work on is a replacement map light for the XR. The lens has literally turned to dust. I'm not sure how effectively you can print transparent, however, so I might look into just redoing the actual housing and using some Ford or GM lens easily found in a junkyard. Also noodling about how to make some sort of retainer for the shift boost in the XR -I have combined a Mustang boot (from Redline) with a console from a Euro Sierra (to fit the T5) but it mostly just sits there, the boot isn't attached to anything. It's been bugging me for a decade. :lol:

[thesameguy]

Rev3 product finished, assembled, perfect!

2217

Very satisfied with this project as (primarily) it worked great, but also because it solved a real issue pretty painlessly.

I say pretty because there is something I am not grasping about 3D printing, and I can't tell whether it's my files, my printer, or maybe even software. More on my Simplify3D purchase:

This model is three files - the bottom, the top, and the pins. I modified the bottom and pins a couple times and reprinted them without issue. However, the top was repeatedly a continually a problem. I had some problems getting the holes for the little pins in exactly the right spot - I made three attempts at it before getting them just right. I made the holes by drawing them on the flat plane on the piece and then intruding them into null space, the same way I made the "vents" on the bottom. That was fine, and they printed fine. However, when I needed to move them the result was *disaster*. I tried grabbing both the top of the hole and the bottom together and shifting them together as well as grabbing them and moving them individually. Each time, the resultant model looked fine, but the print was really effing wrong. One attempt ended up printing over the hole for the display, another attempt completely lost the vertical dimension and printed essentially in the air. These were not just single examples of bad prints, but actually a corrupted model. Running the models through Simplify3D I could see that the actual model was somehow damaged and un-sliceable. As a result, I ended up just remaking the top model each time I needed to move the holes. Being pretty much a square it wasn't hard - and it was good practice with Sketchup. Made from scratch, they always printed fine.

Not sure what the issue is... maybe a problem with Sketchup's export to STL? That's really the core of the issue, I suppose. :shrug:

[MR2 Fan]

You might get some help from the links on my website ($$$ SHAMELESS PLUG $$$)

http://www.utiliv.com/software.html

Under 3D MODEL CONVERSION/REPAIR PROGRAMS

:D

[thesameguy]

I never mind a plug, shameless or otherwise! :D

[Crazed_Insanity]

Is that your printer, tsg? Looks pretty fancy...

I'm currently designing something, but I think I'm just gonna have somebody else print it...

[thesameguy]

It's not really fancy. It's one of these:

http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/da-Vinci-1.1-Plus

TMI: I had "rewards" at Dell from other purchases, and Amazon randomly had that printer on sale for $450. I got Dell to price match Amazon. I would not have pulled the trigger had it not been "free." But I had nothing better to do with the value at Dell, so I took the plunge.

Like all hobby-grade printers it has some issues, but at the price point it's very capable and, after talking with a friend, a solid intro printer. Support from Simplify3D was important as I didn't want to be 100% reliant on the crappy bundled software. The printer seems to work quite well - the only tangible negative I've been able to ascribe to it is the use of proprietary filament cartridges, but that can be solved in a number of ways. Of course, for the amount of printing I will likely end up doing, it may never be a consideration anyway. Everything else - the odd calibration routine, dumb software, etc. are not worth worrying about. The fact it's fully enclosed is really nice, and I'm not mad at the wireless printing & built-in monitoring camera.

TBH, at $450 I feel it's a very good value. At the normal price of $650 there are probably better options, and it's close enough in price to superior options I would have spent more. $450? I'm totally satisfied. I'd do it again.

[Crazed_Insanity]

Cool.

Friend of mine has an earlier generation printer or something... so yours already looks pretty 'fancy'! ;)

I've been playing around with Cubify 3D, but so far I haven't created anything decent that I actually want to print out yet! Hopefully I will be able to someday... :p

[MR2 Fan]

Regarding which printers are the best...even though this isn't one advertised on my website, the Prusa i3 MK2 is apparently one of the best printers out there....extremely reliable, very inexpensive ($700 for the kit version) and high quality...with up to 4 materials in the same print as well (with a Beta add-on)

The only downside? It's about 8 weeks to get one because they're so popular.

[Godson]

I might go this route if I delve into unobtanium interior bits for 30 year old cars.

[thesameguy]

Regarding which printers are the best...even though this isn't one advertised on my website, the Prusa i3 MK2 is apparently one of the best printers out there....extremely reliable, very inexpensive ($700 for the kit version) and high quality...with up to 4 materials in the same print as well (with a Beta add-on)

The only downside? It's about 8 weeks to get one because they're so popular.

That would have been my go-to had I not gotten this one. Given how many clones of the MkI came to be, I have little doubt Prusa makes a good product.

Maybe worth mentioning: The XYZ came assembled at $450, and that factored into my decision as well. I unboxed it, calibrated it, printed. Calibration was a BITCH, but I still had a print in my hands three hours after opening the box. Next go, I want a bigger print area (12x12) and multi-filament. I'm sure I'll be willing to build that one. Maybe in 2020 or so. :D

[Random]

Make magazine (http://makezine.com/) just recently did a round-up/review of a bunch of the various 3D printers, at a vareity of price points, FWIW.

edit: they appear to like the Prusa i3, as well.

[MR2 Fan]

Ferrari's F1 car to use 3D printed piston heads?

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20170201-reports-suggest-ferrari-2017-formula-1-car-will-use-3d-printed-piston-heads.html

[balki]

tires printing on the fly (https://www.behance.net/gallery/41248995/Mercedes-Benz-DTW-(le-Mans-2030))
Never thought of using 3D printing to change from hard slicks to wet-weather treads to soft slicks all within the same lap (theoretical)

[Crazed_Insanity]

Interesting. Unless there's a tire blowout, there's no longer a need for pit stops then!

[balki]

works for punctures as well, so you get some solar panels on there and they'll be no more scheduled stops.

[SportWagon]

I had an idea for a 3D printing project in metal.

A wrench socket of sorts. The socket end would fit the splined "broach" of your plumbing shut-off. The other end could either be recessed to fit a normal socket wrench, or shaped as a hexagonal nut. Or possibly both...

[MR2 Fan]

Re-joined the 3D Printer masterrace

https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-0/p403x403/16835839_10155401009401874_7969181365957814228_o.j pg?oh=240f75790748fd4883796e1bc425119b&oe=59417ABB

[MR2 Fan]

More info:

Monoprice Select Mini, $199 on Amazon or monoprice.com

I just set up with the default print after leveling the bed manually....prints AMAZING so far

It only comes with a tiny amount of PLA filament, but I have more coming tomorrow.

So far though, the default print looks really good with no programming yet. It will take any g-code, so you can use any slicer program.

[Kchrpm]

Image no worky, but sweet that it does a good job mostly straight out of the box.

[MR2 Fan]

First full test print...came out really well.... I believe it's 200 micron, and can print finer detail but takes twice as long. This took 3 hours and is about 5.5 cm tall

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/16707291_10155402691871874_3521738293623752855_o.j pg?oh=f061574e25d4ba77d4560345792b6b9b&oe=59296EBB

[Yw-slayer]

Cool!

I've funded Skelmet, some 3D printed sunglasses.

[MR2 Fan]

Third print from this machine....11 hours total, NO problems...quite amazed so far at this thing.

The only downside is the print size, it's 120mm HxWxD (4.7 inches)

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/16819134_10155405933241874_2551139828561874509_o.j pg?oh=7a85c495f054a93bef091fa974030a83&oe=5930B8A7

[Godson]

How large of an object can it print?

[MR2 Fan]

The only downside is the print size, it's 120mm HxWxD (4.7 inches)

;)

[thesameguy]

Yeah, but how big?

[novicius]

:lol:

This lil' lift (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:925556) looks cool and impressive if it truly prints out fully assembled. :twitch:

[Yw-slayer]

I funded Skelmet on Indiegogo - custom-3D printed sunglasses and custom lenses.

[MR2 Fan]

:lol:

This lil' lift (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:925556) looks cool and impressive if it truly prints out fully assembled. :twitch:

Yes, it does:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaOPsHWz7cw

[thesameguy]

That's pretty crazy - although I am tempted to try it, I have no idea what I would use the final product for!

I spent hours last night staring at the Jaguar's center HVAC vents, which have shitty little tabs to retain the wood trim. The tabs break, well, always, so I was trying to find a way to reinforce or replicate or improve them with the printer. Came up totally empty - there just isn't the clearance to really add anything... you either screw up the fit to the dash or you screw up the fit of the wood trim. Rather disappointed - I was sure I could come up with something until I really looked at it.

https://ebayapi-loc8apartltd.netdna-ssl.com/00/s/MjY3WDQwMA==/z/86MAAOSw-4BXXuDr/$_1.JPG

1.5mm thick ABS is not sufficient. Dumbasses.

I recall the mid '90s, when the first Doom editors came out and I started looking at real-life architectural details in a whole new one - Could I replicate that in Doomedit? How would it work? Now I find myself staring at little details and wondering how I could replicate them on a 3D printer... which is equally insane.

I still have that 2x25 digital amp I bought on Amazon, and was thinking about doing a print for it. I found this:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2009946

which looks pretty great. I then remembered I have an old Beats "Pill" sitting in the closet I was going to take apart (motherboard died), and maybe I could re-use its speakers... remix that box into a totally self-contained little Bluetooth speaker. Seemed like a fun project. But then I realized I have zero use for a Bluetooth speaker. It's a completely stupid waste of resources.

[MR2 Fan]

My monoprice select mini is still working well, ONCE I get the bed level at least. That is a BIG problem if your bed is not level, your prints will not print right at all. There's a few more expensive printers with auto bed leveling or calibration it can do to make up for bed problems.

I tried to print an eiffel tower, re-sized it way down to fit my printer build area, and due to that, it failed...the supports were too narrow.

I was going to split it up and print the bottom part,then the top part separate, so I could make it bigger...bottom part estimated time, 20 hours :o

Anyway, I started to do some other testing with my printer, calibration cube to make sure it's all dimensionally correct, which it is.

I'm only printing at 40mm/s which is default. I plan to kick it up to 50 or 60 and see if that affects quality.

Some printers like deltas can go up to 300 mm/s! (SeeMeCNC's Rostock Max is capable of that), so that 20 hour print, could theoretically be printed in 1/5 of that time or more.

IN OTHER NEWS my 3d Printing website, http://www.utiliv.com NOW has a 3D Model Search Engine, powered by Google. It is currently searching around 15 sites that offer 3D models for printing :D

[MR2 Fan]

Something else I wanted to discuss for those interested,

How do I explain the challenge 3D printing for consumers to people?

I think it's like buying an Ipod, but you either have to make your own music, or only have access to indie artists and cover songs. You also may have to rebuild or replace parts on your Ipod every few weeks.

I am SERIOUSLY considering trying to break through this barrier...not with the hardware aspect as there's already over 1,000 3D printers on the market.

What I AM trying to break through is why large companies have not contributed much of anything related to 3D models yet. The only major exception I can find is Ford, who have both 3D models to download (for $4.99) or to order for printing if you don't own a 3D printer.

I feel like there is absolutely MASSIVE market potential for this since the consumer 3D printing market continues to expand and each printer iteration improves. Whether this is just some badges or logos to print, or actual functional parts is going to be up to each company. Naturally with the current state of 3D printers, we should probably avoid having models with vital physical functions, as they could break if not printed well.

The only drawback is the legal stuff that will need to be very thorough and I'm deciding how I can approach that.

Thoughts anyone??

[Kchrpm]

I think they don't want to give people 3D models of their stuff because it can be modified and made ad nauseum without continued payments to them.

[MR2 Fan]

I think they don't want to give people 3D models of their stuff because it can be modified and made ad nauseum without continued payments to them.

Well it depends on what they offer. It could be just promotional materials, and any copies that get made are just more free advertising for them.

There are several possible use cases, letting people make their own replacement parts which would allow them to warehouse less parts on their own, etc.

Maybe have a model of a video game character for download before the game comes out, or promo for upcoming movie...there's a lot of possible things that could be done.

The other thing is, right now, there's TONS and TONS of models of basically intellectual property. Some of it has been cracked down on, but a lot of it hasn't.

Going back to my previous analogy, we're in the Napster era, and before the iTunes/similar services era.

[Kchrpm]

Going back to my previous analogy, we're in the Napster era, and before the iTunes/similar services era.
I agree completely. I'm looking forward to seeing how it grows. I think it would be kind of amazing if 25% of the developed world ends up having a microwave sized 3D printer at home.

[Freude am Fahren]

Until you can get a laser scanner and printer with enough resolution to replicate automotive parts (well, not things that need to be metal at least) for under $1k, I'll enjoy reading and watching this stuff from afar.

I've watched a couple of recent Jay Leno's Garage episodes on 3D scanning and printing real metal working parts, and it's awesome tech, but so far out of reach for DIY'ers that aren't multi-millionaires.

Those models you made look cool though. Like wood almost. Are the insides hollow to save media/time?

[MR2 Fan]

Until you can get a laser scanner and printer with enough resolution to replicate automotive parts (well, not things that need to be metal at least) for under $1k, I'll enjoy reading and watching this stuff from afar.

I've watched a couple of recent Jay Leno's Garage episodes on 3D scanning and printing real metal working parts, and it's awesome tech, but so far out of reach for DIY'ers that aren't multi-millionaires.

Those models you made look cool though. Like wood almost. Are the insides hollow to save media/time?

Some scanners can get the basics down, then people can use CAD programs to clean up the models.

There are 3D printing services you can use to print in MANY kinds of materials, and they can even fix files you send to them in certain cases. Check out Shapeways.com.

Regarding the insides, on basic FDM (plastic) printers, yes, you can choose the infill percentage for that reason, less cost/time.

[MR2 Fan]

Sorry to post again, but this is interesting.

as I stated Ford has 3D models available and I read on some forum a comment that Ford emailed the person asking what they planned to use the model for, which seemed odd.

I went to the Ford website (3d.ford.com) for the model, tried to download, and it shows this message:

"FORD MOTOR COMPANY has specified allowed uses, including editorial and non-commercial use. Other uses may be allowed. Each requested use will be reviewed on a case-by-case basis and approved or denied at Ford's sole discretion. Before purchases are available for download, there will be a period of typically one business day for approval to be determined - any rejected uses will automatically be processed as a return."

Seems like a lot of legal crap going on for this seemingly simple thing. I wonder what their "requirements" are.

Edit: Then again, if it's an .STL file, it could be shared (for free) very easily, to Kchrpm's point.

Some kind of limited solution would be needed (hate to say DRM style)

[Drachen596]

https://3dlabprint.com/

3D printed RC planes. They sell the files for between 20 and 40 bucks and you get to print as many as you want. Not sure how or if they worry about the sharing of files though. I'd guess they handle it by not worrying about it because 3d printing isn't hugely widespread at this point.

[Crazed_Insanity]

My 1st try at 3D printed Jewelry for wife thru shapeways.com

2493

It's just a stainless steel part for about $10. Sounds pretty cheap for a piece of jewelry, but if it's for some other application like a handle of somesort... I'm not sure if it'd be worth it...

BTW, I just did the cube part, not the ring nor the chain! ;)

[MR2 Fan]

While this topic has been brought up again...I might as well let you guys know...

I have been forging....in secret....a master printer.....ONE 3D PRINTER TO RULE THEM ALL!!

I'm only half joking...been working on a concept for the past 6 months or so and it is nearly finished. I've brought on some co-founders for a company and plan to launch on Kickstarter around October hopefully.

This is VERY exciting as we are COMPLETELY changing the rules of what 3D Printers are doing in the consumer area right now.

I will post a new thread once it's ready for public/prime-time and I'm hoping to get all of your support, even if it's just a $1 donation on the first day of the Kickstarter campaign.

I will give you a few hints....multi-color/multi-material, fast, and...let's say 1,000+ reasons to buy it.

[Crazed_Insanity]

Will I be able to print out a diamond ring for my wife? If yes, you have my commitment for one US dollar!!!!

[MR2 Fan]

ring yes, diamond no...thats one thing we can't print yet but give it a few years ;)

[MR2 Fan]

Hi everybody...back to this thread as things are happening. I'm not going to bring up my "ALERT" thread again, so I figured I'd post here since this is the general 3D printing thread.

Lots of good things are happening in the 3D printing world. When I attended the first festival last year, I saw an amazing 3D printer introduced from E3D, the company that makes the best hot ends in the business.

They introduced the toolchanger, and after another 1.5 years of perfecting it, they've started to release the production versions, however they are not selling them as complete printers. They're selling individual parts and pushing the community of 3D printing companies to offer their own 3D printers with this great technology and I plan to be one of the first to offer this option later this year.

This has MANY benefits as you can do multicolor and multimaterial without the drawbacks of other multicolor/material systems, since they're all separate, there's no purge tower needed, no temperature changes needed for different materials, less jam potential, etc....cutting print time by 3 to 4 times compared to those systems. You can also set up different tools like a camera, pick and place tool, among other things we'll see eventually developed.

E3D's full model costs around $3,500 for everything. I'm trying to sell a printer for about $1,000 less than that and should be ready by October when the next big 3D printing festival takes place.

Here's a video of their toolchanger in action:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bn4gWYOzHxQ

[MR2 Fan]

It's been so long since there's been an update.....

So here's an update...

I'm within a few weeks of offering pre-orders for our toolchanger compatible printer. It took some more re-designs, but very close to launch. I have specs and things at venturi3d.com

This is very exciting because we're going to be offering a toolchanger with the size big enough for 6 tools...which no one else is offering right now. I mean honestly there's practically no other company offering toolchanging printers at all yet since it's all brand new.

While on this topic...I also recently started looking into Servo driven as an option. I found some industrial size 3D printers that are massive and very expensive, but their speeds are 4-5 times FASTER than the average consumer printer.

Servos and the drive mechanisms like ball screws etc. are more expensive, but after doing some research, I believe it's possible to offer a VERY fast, very reliable servo driven 3D printer for around $3-4K...just need to do some R&D after I make some sales on my other printer design. Again, no one else is offering a servo driven 3D printer the lower cost market yet. Many CNC machines already use servos and their setups are very similar to 3D printers already, the only real difference being the size of the Z axis

The advantage is that servo motors know exactly their position at all times vs. steppers and belts which are not as precise and can skip steps or get moved/bumped out of position easily.

Large servo/ball screw combos are also a lot less susceptible to heavier weight, vs light stepper/belt systems that can cause ringing artifacts on prints.

[mk]

Servos and the drive mechanisms like ball screws etc. are more expensive,

Don't forget to check over sized ones.

With luck the other one is standard for something else.

[MR2 Fan]

I've already found the servos I want to use/test, just a matter of having the spare cash to buy it (and the related power supply) for testing.

Teknic Clearpath motors.

https://www.teknic.com/products/clearpath-brushless-dc-servo-motors/?

They've already been used on other 3D printers built by a couple of people with the same board I'm planning to use

[mk]

Fully integrated is the way.

They are a pair anyway, the drive and motor.

[Rare White Ape]

It's a 3D printed Hypercar so it goes here.

And it's beautiful.

I'm not 100% convinced that it will turn into an ongoing thing by the financiers (i.e. the rich guy who's obviously using it as a platform to gain interest and sell his technology) but...

...it's beautiful.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCto6qSjIXw

[Crazed_Insanity]

Very interesting. I remember seeing some similarly exterior shaped car years back but has space frame chassis... graphite tubes and 3D printed nodes connecting them. I wonder if the same company has further developed that thing?

Anyway, will keep an eye on it..., let's see if they can really translate this from paper... or computer to the actual road and track performance that they're aiming for. Designing and building their own power unit is kinda amazing too... makes me wonder if they're being way too ambitious?

Nevertheless, the prototype looks good. :up: I would certainly buy it if I have extra $2 million in cash that I don't know what to do with. ;)

[MR2 Fan]

Big News: A new 3D Printer company created by a lot of former DJI engineers (The drone company) just launched on Kickstarter and raised $4 million in just a couple of days.



Their printer design is a BIT similar to the first printer I designed and tried to do Kickstarter in 2018 but waaaay more advanced (They said they were considering a printer since 2014, I like to think they saw mine and took some inspiration) . They've sent out at least a dozen or so review units to people on youtube and basically everyone is saying that this is a massive game changer.

It has a TON of features that no other printer has....very fast, very accurate, 4 spools for multi-color/multi-materal, LIDAR scanning to ensure it is extruding properly and bed is level. Fully assembled, it's plug in and print.

Here's a very detailed video about it, if anyone's interested. The top version was $999 on KS, and will be $1,449 retail, but if everything works out with their backers, it will definitely be worth picking up. The only drawback I've heard of is that it is very loud.


EDIT: to add that I've been working on a large format belt printer for the past several months to possibly make a product out of it, but now it's like CRAP! all of these features are going to be insane to try to implement if I wanted to sell it at a price of this or higher.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZBpbkLJXb8

[Crazed_Insanity]

Hmm..., very enticed, even at $1500!

[Godson]

Hmmm.


I might be looking at getting a 3D printer to help on test fitting some of the parts I make up in CAD. I have zero problem with used, but I want something that will actually work and that I don't need to futz around with too much.

This popped up local to me.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/267608908949235/?mibextid=dXMIcH

[MR2 Fan]

Ender 3's are like the Honda Civic of the 3D printer world...cheap, easy to mod and work on. The Pro might not have silent stepper drivers so it might be a bit noisy when printing.

The good news is there's TONS of videos on youtube about them. I don't think there's a lot of difference between the stock Ender 3 and the Pro (Noting that Creality seems to have introduced like a dozen different versions of that printer by now).

Regarding if it will "work and not futz around"...I'd say get a Sovol SV-06, much higher quality than the Ender 3 and has a lot of better features, including silent stepper drivers, better rails vs. V-slots, can print in more materials and IMO the most important, auto bed leveling:

https://amzn.to/3pgP8Dl

[retsmah]

I don't have any experience using the Ender models but, as you may know they are really popular. If the guy had it powered on and just had it print a layer or two of a small part for a couple minutes I think you could probably be pretty confident it'll work fine. Others might have more experience with their printers though!

The printers at my last job had glass beds, my personal experience has been that they can be a little finicky to deal with. But there's a lot of knowledge out there on them, and if you mostly print one material you only really have to figure out a good process once. I did spend more time cleaning them between prints than I have to with the PEI coated spring steel bed that's on my Prusa I have at home.

I use PLA as kind of my standard printing material, if you're just doing test fitting you'll be good with PLA and no enclosure. If you want to make functional automotive stuff then you will probably want to print ABS/ASA, and at least in my experience you need an enclosure for that, to prevent the part from warping during the print.

[MR2 Fan]

I don't have any experience using the Ender models but, as you may know they are really popular. If the guy had it powered on and just had it print a layer or two of a small part for a couple minutes I think you could probably be pretty confident it'll work fine. Others might have more experience with their printers though!

The printers at my last job had glass beds, my personal experience has been that they can be a little finicky to deal with. But there's a lot of knowledge out there on them, and if you mostly print one material you only really have to figure out a good process once. I did spend more time cleaning them between prints than I have to with the PEI coated spring steel bed that's on my Prusa I have at home.

I use PLA as kind of my standard printing material, if you're just doing test fitting you'll be good with PLA and no enclosure. If you want to make functional automotive stuff then you will probably want to print ABS/ASA, and at least in my experience you need an enclosure for that, to prevent the part from warping during the print.

Agreed.

Also, I forgot to mention, I've owned a few ender 3's and I also own a Sovol SV-06, so not just saying it without experience

[Godson]

Yeah, the ultimate purpose is for "rapid" prototyping.

My end parts need to be heat stable, and will be made from aluminum so I don't need to deal with that headache.

I'll look into the SV6

[retsmah]

Also, I forgot to mention, I've owned a few ender 3's and I also own a Sovol SV-06, so not just saying it without experience

Sorry I started writing my post before yours, but then came back to it and posted after you had posted. You were the guy I was thinking of when I said others might have more experience!

[retsmah]

One of my recent 3d printing (and woodworking) projects was a busy board for my nephew, here's a little video of it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCrqVUMpITg).

I hadn't ever really thought about embedding metal parts into my parts during the print, but had recently seen some people doing that and this was an opportunity for me to try it out.

The printed letters shown early in the video have magnets embedded in them, so they're modeled with pockets for magnets and then the print stops at the top of the pocket to allow the magnets to be inserted before continuing the print over the top of the magnets. Aside from looking nice this also means you don't have to worry about gluing in magnets that might come out, especially good when it's for a child and you don't want the choking hazard!

Later in the video the tach and shifter also have magnets embedded in the print to hold the needle and shift knob in each position.

Not really shown in the video, the base for the steering wheel has skateboard bearings embedded in it, which saved some time on design and assembly. I didn't really have to think about how bearings are going to be installed and retained, just make a pocket they can't come out of and insert them during the print!

[MR2 Fan]

Sorry I started writing my post before yours, but then came back to it and posted after you had posted. You were the guy I was thinking of when I said others might have more experience!

no worries :up:

[retsmah]

Also on the topic of printers, I put a deposit in a while back for the Prusa XL (https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-xl-2/), which should start shipping relatively soon.

The Prusa Mk4 came out in the time since I put in the deposit, and as a result they're allowing XL deposits to be moved over to the Mk4. I could also cancel it without a penalty. I need to do a little more research on the latest state of things but I think I'll probably still go ahead with the XL, with at least two print heads to start.

For me it's interesting for:

1. The larger print volume. For a project I'm working on I'm printing patterns, which I then use to build carbon fiber molds, ultimately to make prepreg carbon parts. I've been pushing the limits of my build volume though and I'd like to be able to make some flanges on the patterns bigger.
2. The multiple tool heads would be nice for being able to print PVA as a soluble support material, and for the more fun parts I do it'd be nice to be able to do multiple colors.

I think the only thing I haven't really researched is if there's something else from another manufacturer I might want to consider. I've been really happy with my current Prusa Mk3s though, it wasn't the cheapest printer but it's worked great out of the box (well, out of the box after I put the kit together) with no issues or fuss or anything.

[MR2 Fan]

The XL is nice...did you already order with extra toolheads? I've loved the concept of the toolchanger and built/tried to sell one myself that was in the style of E3D's BUT it was a major challenge getting the software set up for it, slicing etc.

I'm sure the Prusa ecosystem will be much more refined. Also being CoreXY it should be able to print much quicker than the MK4 most likely.

[MR2 Fan]

ALSO, I'm not 100% done with this website project I'm working on, but it's pretty close and I'm going to be finishing it up in the next 2-3 weeks for official announcement probably:

https://www.gendustry.com


The idea is to make it a 1-stop shop for viewing/researching various "local manufacturing" hardware like 3D printers, CNC machines, 3D scanners and software for 3D modeling and printing as well. This is going to be growing and expanding over time.

[retsmah]

The XL is nice...did you already order with extra toolheads?

I was just looking at my preorder, it looks like I put in for two tool heads, although I think you can change the number when it's your turn to finalize an order. Also catching up on my reading it looks like it still may be a couple months to get to my order, says they'll be ramping up production but it's going to take a while to get through just the day 1 orders!

That's another thing I need to check, I know you can add more later, I'm not sure if there's anything about that process that would make you really want to get the right number of heads initially. Like if you have to do any disassembly to add more tools. I could see going up to 3 or 4 in the future depending on how I'm using it.

[MR2 Fan]

That's another thing I need to check, I know you can add more later, I'm not sure if there's anything about that process that would make you really want to get the right number of heads initially. Like if you have to do any disassembly to add more tools. I could see going up to 3 or 4 in the future depending on how I'm using it.

Are you planning to print for multiple colors or multiple materials (or both?)

[retsmah]

Multi-material is probably the bigger draw for me, I'd like to be able to print PVA support material. I'll use it for multiple colors though as well, I've got a decent number of prints I do where I end up having to paint stuff like letters a different color than the base print.

[MR2 Fan]

Ok, the reason I ask is that a lot of people who use multi-material usually only do like 2 filaments like PVA and PLA together, but I could see using those plus maybe flexible materials (There's flexible PLA now! I need to try that)

Also, found this video was posted today


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a64l8GwkZqM

[retsmah]

Awesome, thanks for sharing that! That initial review does seem to line up with what I'd hope for out of it.

Yeah I think for me just two materials would likely be enough, like you said probably mostly PLA and PVA. I feel like two colors would be enough since I'm currently getting by ok with one, but maybe colors are a thing where as soon as you have two you start wanting three. I don't do a ton of like... decorative stuff though, so usually I just want a second color for text or something.

[Godson]

Looks like they are having a sale...

Probably going to order on soon, as this thing could probably do everything I need it to do.

Who can give me a dumb user setup guide? Do I need a case?


https://sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv06-direct-drive-3d-printer?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwvilBhCFARIsADvYi7JF6s6L-VvF89lEjSDoen8mD_XPKKb9JqJ7rHy4pSaQDgvwnDbciscaAlY YEALw_wcB

[retsmah]

My experience has been that need for an enclosure depends on the material you are printing.

PLA is my go-to material, I've found it to not really give me any trouble printing, and it works fine for things I'm going to use around the house, I use it for masters for composites tooling as well. I was able to print that without any trouble with no enclosure.

PLA is UV sensitive though, and melts/softens at a lowish temperature.

ASA is the other material I use, which I use just for stuff that is going outdoors or on cars/motorcycles. It can handle a little higher temperatures, and is supposed to be more UV tolerant. I've had some parts that have been in use for a few years now that seem to be holding up fine to various levels of heat/UV on and in cars and motorcycles.

ASA is fussier to print and in my experience requires an enclosure. The material prints at quite a bit higher temperature, so I think having it exposed to room temp air and airflow is a bigger problem. Without an enclosure I was getting parts warping a lot, enough to pop off the bed and turn the print into a mess.

So anyway, if you're just doing prototyping / test fit type stuff, based on my experience I'd say no enclosure is fine and print PLA. If you need to print more functional prints then I'd say enclosure and ASA works pretty well.

[Godson]

Hmmmm. Looks like I'd need to build my own enclosure for the SV06 plus...

[retsmah]

When I needed one it seemed like an easy enough task that it felt silly to buy one, then when I built one it was just enough work that it felt like it probably would have been worth it to buy one.

[MR2 Fan]

If you find an enclosure for a Prusa i3, that's about the same size as the SV-06.

The SV-06 at my job has been great. There's not much to set up, make sure to do the bed leveling setup every so often. There's videos on yt about using them

[Godson]

If you find an enclosure for a Prusa i3, that's about the same size as the SV-06.

The SV-06 at my job has been great. There's not much to set up, make sure to do the bed leveling setup every so often. There's videos on yt about using them

What about the SV-06 plus? I figure at 340$, I get a LOT more.

Ie. Larger print space, faster print option, and an empty roll sensor.

[MR2 Fan]

What about the SV-06 plus? I figure at 340$, I get a LOT more.

Ie. Larger print space, faster print option, and an empty roll sensor.


Haven't used that one but heard similar good things about it. Getting an enclosure that size would be tricky....you have to account for how far forward and back the bed moves...it's a bit beyond the actual printer frame.

[Godson]

Haven't used that one but heard similar good things about it. Getting an enclosure that size would be tricky....you have to account for how far forward and back the bed moves...it's a bit beyond the actual printer frame.

So, custom built frame? I could probably make something out of plexiglass and printing the corners, no?

[Godson]

who am I kidding, 8.66 x 8.66 x 9.84 in will do everything I need. I could probably build anything and everything I need with that. My torque tube flange is 8.3 x 7.9 x ~4 in.

Do you know if there is anything I should be aware of when printing towards the outermost edges of the printers capabilities?

[MR2 Fan]

who am I kidding, 8.66 x 8.66 x 9.84 in will do everything I need. I could probably build anything and everything I need with that. My torque tube flange is 8.3 x 7.9 x ~4 in.

Do you know if there is anything I should be aware of when printing towards the outermost edges of the printers capabilities?

Capabilities in what way?

[retsmah]

It's a little more work, but you've also got the option of splitting a part into multiple prints and gluing them together. I've done quite a few printed then glued parts in the 1-2 ft size range. It may not be worth the cost/space to have a bigger printer if you're only occasionally needing to print stuff larger than it's volume.

In my experience with my printer the only issue with pushing to the edges of the bed is it's more important that the bed leveling is done well. In my case the printer does an auto bed leveling at the beginning of each print, if I'm doing a bigger print I'll warm the bed up and let it sit at temperature for 5-10 minutes before starting the print, to try to have any temperature related deformation accounted for in the auto bed leveling.

[Godson]

Any deformation at the far edges of the print field.

I'm my generalized experience, as things get further from center, they increase variance. Just wanted to make sure if I buy this thing it can work effectively at the far ends of the spectrum, yknow

[MR2 Fan]

Any deformation at the far edges of the print field.

I'm my generalized experience, as things get further from center, they increase variance. Just wanted to make sure if I buy this thing it can work effectively at the far ends of the spectrum, yknow

Gotcha, there can be some variance at the edges and the larger the print bed, the worse it can be. That's why something like auto bed leveling is a super useful feature.

Overall it shouldn't cause issues and you can also typically use an extra adhesive if you do run into trouble like glue stick or hair spray on the bed before printing.

Edit to add: it also depends on the material you plan to print with though. ABS is WAY worse at lifting on edges than other materials for example