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Godson
March 8th, 2014, 07:18 PM
I guess I never made a thread. Well I suppose I'll start it with a boring a short first post.



Anyone ever rebuild a brake caliper?

neanderthal
March 8th, 2014, 09:25 PM
Quicker and easier to just buy a pair from a recycler.

but. yes. When I was a mechanic. And when I was a poor "fresh off the boat" student driving an old BMW.

It's not rocket science.

thesameguy
March 9th, 2014, 09:42 AM
What he said. Not awful to rebuild, but given the option I'd always buy a different caliper than rebuild an old one. *Generally* speaking it's just a seal or two, but if there is one of the bellows type dust boots, they can be a real pain. Sometimes you need to get creative to get them installed correctly. Make sure you examine the caliper bore with a careful eye, and remember clealiness is of the utmost performance. Use only brake fluid as a lubricant for installing seals. Also, be double cautious it if it has an integrated handbrake mechanism - they can be quite complex, way too much to deal with for my tastes.

Godson
March 9th, 2014, 11:31 AM
Normally I'd go the route of buying new calipers, but the choices are 50ea for front or 300ea for front. I'll buy the seal kit and do it myself on all four for less than the cost of one. This way I don't run the risk of effed up brake lines, and down time is minimal.


Just curious if anyone had done it before here.


Thanks guys.

Godson
March 10th, 2014, 10:48 AM
Looked at the rotor on the side in question and it is blueing... I don't know if I should push it off till this weekend. Luckily I can ride where I need to for a majority of the week.



Fuck.





So that leaves me with replacing a rotor. I am of the mindset of if you do it to one, you should do it to both on brakes. I also do not like the Axxiss Ultimates as the compound is 'sticky' and would prefer the Hawk HP+



This is going to get expensive.



Fuck-ing fuck.

thesameguy
March 10th, 2014, 11:01 AM
When it rains it pours...

....

.

Godson
March 10th, 2014, 11:13 AM
Truth be told. I am going to pull the thing apart on wednesday, and see what damage is done. If it is just a sticking slide, I am going to clean it up and lube it up (just like she asked :) ) and put it back together and pray until I get a paycheck in July.



Then the whole fucking thing is getting gone through. I don't fuck around with this shit.

Random
March 10th, 2014, 11:20 AM
I also do not like the Axxiss Ultimates as the compound is 'sticky' and would prefer the Hawk HP+


The HP+es squeal like a city bus, fair warning.

Personally, I liked the inital bite of the Ultimates--the HPSes I have now suck. :(

Godson
March 10th, 2014, 02:02 PM
I am familiar with squeak on everything I own. I like the initial bite of the Ultimates, but even when I didn't have a caliper sticking they felt like they didn't 'release' from the rotor very well. I really liked my Ferodo DS2500s on the S2000, but they had a TON of initial bite which made pedal manipulation...interesting at times.


Friend has the Performance Friction Z-whatevers on his car and they take some heat before they begin to perform, and I don't really care for the properties.

retsmah
March 11th, 2014, 12:30 PM
I am of the mindset of if you do it to one, you should do it to both on brakes.

I used to be of that mindset... then I ran out of money!

Godson
March 12th, 2014, 11:30 PM
Caliper is not rebuildable.

Got the wheel off, disc wouldn't rotate. I looked at the caliper, the previous dolt didn't get the caliper dust cover on correctly, as evidence by the caliper boot being completely unseated from the caliper but still attached to the piston. I'll post a photo tomorrow. It has some pretty serious corrosion on the piston, to the point I could not use a c-clamp to compress the piston back at all. Rotor looks salvageable for the time being.

Looks like I get to overnight a refurb caliper and hope they will take mine as a core.

thesameguy
March 13th, 2014, 08:58 AM
Doh! BTDT. Definitely wouldn't trust that anymore. Are E36 M3 calipers special, or are they the same across other 3ers?

Random
March 13th, 2014, 10:34 AM
Same across all M3s (and M Coupes), different from the regular E36es. The M3 front hub assembly has a different geometry.

What's kind of interesting is that Pelican has brand new calipers for the regular cars (for $240 each!), but only rebuilds for the M3. :?

Godson
March 13th, 2014, 06:03 PM
Yeah, story of my life. I'll be doing a brake caliper tomorrow evening

Godson
March 15th, 2014, 09:08 AM
Previous owner had painted the calipers and brackets red :x. I'd prefer black, but I'm not going to dick with it right now. I deal with that when I have my own place and time to burn. So red it is going to be...

Godson
March 21st, 2014, 05:55 PM
Got my car fixed with no troubles.


How do y'all test for a leaking fuel injector. This is on a 1994 325is.

Current situation is this.

CEL light is on, 1221. Rich operating condition. When this happens, the car bogs way down and kicks the CEL on. Doesn't act up in limp home mode.

Clear the code and it does it again. Light acceleration usually in the 2200-2500rpm range.


I have tested and verified all sensors are in operating condition (tps, maf, ect, o2, I at, sect). Spark plugs were replaced with good plugs 10k miles ago.

All coils are exactly in middle of factory ohm range, all coils are getting battery voltage with key on.

I have verified all of the sensors readings are getting to the ecm.

I have done fuel pressure, residual pressure, and regulator tests.


I am fucking lost. Going to check injectors ohm readings, but I doubt I'll find anything useful there.



Help.

thesameguy
March 21st, 2014, 08:34 PM
The only way I know to test for leaking injectors is to pull them from the manifold and run pressure through and see if they leak. That is not conclusive, you need an actual fuel injector tester for that, but it's a start. If they're in doubt, I would just either replace them or send them to a fuel injector shop and have them evaluated. 20 years is a very good run a set of injectors. Truly bad or not, I'd have a hard time believing they are genuinely good.

thesameguy
March 21st, 2014, 08:40 PM
Is is possible there is an exhaust leak causing a false lean reading at the O2 sensor and the ECU richens up the mixture in response? Or maybe a wiring short screwing up a sensor reading? Or a sticky fuel pressure regulator?

neanderthal
March 21st, 2014, 08:44 PM
I'd rather buy 6 new injectors than pay for a bogus tow.

And I just paid for a wholly illegitimate tow.

Godson
March 21st, 2014, 09:41 PM
Is is possible there is an exhaust leak causing a false lean reading at the O2 sensor and the ECU richens up the mixture in response? Or maybe a wiring short screwing up a sensor reading? Or a sticky fuel pressure regulator?


See, I am trying to come up with anything to figure this thing out. I have thought of that as an issue. I finally found something that reminds me on how to make a lean or a rich condition to verify if the O2 is adjusting or if it isn't. Going to test tomorrow.


I hope it doesn't change and I get my result. I am down to a faulty ECM or something else that I haven't found yet.

Godson
March 22nd, 2014, 09:53 AM
Got the code 1225 1226 and 1221 again.

Knock sensor 1, knock sensor 2, and o2 fault. I had a dvom hooked up to the only o2 sensor when I was driving. It adapted as it should.

One thing I noticed is it would go lean when it would start to stumble, which would make me think the injectors are having issues. However, once cel comes on, no more issues.

This leads me to think the ecm may not be receiving a tps signal or something. However, if it wasn't receiving tips signal it would be consistent.

I am down to the ecm being faulty.

Also, how could the knock sensors sense knock when the engine is running lean?

thesameguy
March 22nd, 2014, 06:42 PM
I don't know about E36s, but in limp home mode does it switch over to batch fired injection? If so, that might mask a plethora of problems.

I am not sure what a knock sensor fault specifically is, but usually it's an out of range problem... knock sensors send back AC (IIRC) voltage which the ECU then processes to distinguish engine noise from actual knock. If the ECU is getting a fault, I would expect that means either no signal from the sensors or an AC voltage that is totally unpossible.

What were you getting back from the O2 sensor? I find it odd that you'd get an O2 sensor fault if the O2 sensor is behaving correctly. An O2 sensor fault should be like a knock sensor fault - no voltage or a voltage out of range. You should basically never get an O2 sensor fault. If you do, it means you have a genuinely bad O2 sensor, or a an electrical problem that is creating a bad environment that results in the sensor sending back bad information... that'd be like a flaky ground or low system voltage or something.

If there any chance the stumbling is coincident with some other event? A couple that come specifically to mind would be the cooling fan or AC compressor cycling. Maybe a bad ground or weak alternator causing a system voltage drop, a stumble, weird signals from various sensors, and then a CEL.

Godson
March 22nd, 2014, 10:18 PM
I don't know about E36s, but in limp home mode does it switch over to batch fired injection? If so, that might mask a plethora of problems.

Yeah, which is why I think I am having such a difficult time with this. I can't keep it out of limp mode long enough to diagnose it, and it doesn't kick the code on idle. I think it is a fuel delivery issue or an ECM issue, but I am not sure. I will say that I have noticed the engine starts behaving after the completion of the warm-up enrichment period as expected. HO2 stays constant at 0.45 v until it has come to temperature, then follows as explained below.


I am not sure what a knock sensor fault specifically is, but usually it's an out of range problem... knock sensors send back AC (IIRC) voltage which the ECU then processes to distinguish engine noise from actual knock. If the ECU is getting a fault, I would expect that means either no signal from the sensors or an AC voltage that is totally unpossible.

I have only gotten this code twice now in a series of probably 50 + code retrievals. It almost seems like it is throwing the code along with the O2 sensor fault. I might be thinking too generally though. I do know trying to figure this out right now is like trying to put the star on top of the tree before we have even left to go and pick out a tree.


What were you getting back from the O2 sensor? I find it odd that you'd get an O2 sensor fault if the O2 sensor is behaving correctly. An O2 sensor fault should be like a knock sensor fault - no voltage or a voltage out of range.

Bear in mind I was driving and scanning the DVOM while I was trying to diag, but I was getting varying voltage, from 0.2-0.8 on normal driving. Which is in range. When I would coast in gear off throttle, the mixture would lean to 0.07 was the lowest I saw.

WOT netted me increased voltage (and increased rich condition) to a highest of 0.93 v. This seems to make sense with my understanding of O2 sensors. While I understand that this is out of range, when running WOT without the CEL on, it doesn't kick when the sensor is above or below the specified 0.2-0.8v. While the car is chipped, I don't think this has anything to do with it. I'll contact the guys who did the chip to see if they can lend me an idea on normal operation of their tune.


You should basically never get an O2 sensor fault. If you do, it means you have a genuinely bad O2 sensor, or a an electrical problem that is creating a bad environment that results in the sensor sending back bad information... that'd be like a flaky ground or low system voltage or something.

I agree that I shouldn't get an 02 fault unless something is bogus, but all of the tests I have done to date show the O2 is good. In the world of BMW o2 fault doesn't mean the o2 is faulty, just that there was an issue somehow r/t it. Could be a rich condition, lean condition, heater circuit may not be working, etc., At least according to the Bentley manual. I'll double check everything on the o2 sensor directly to verify it is working.

I'll verify battery voltage at battery, but when I check injectors for signal and firing I was netting 14.05v. Chasing out grounds is going to suck, because I don't have a ground block location of any sort anywhere in my book. Just a letter and number without further clarification.


If there any chance the stumbling is coincident with some other event? A couple that come specifically to mind would be the cooling fan or AC compressor cycling. Maybe a bad ground or weak alternator causing a system voltage drop, a stumble, weird signals from various sensors, and then a CEL.

I drive with all accessories turned off when trying to diagnose. No signs of the AC compressor firing without me actively turning it on. I have never heard the cooling fan operate without the AC on, it does have the old school clutch and fan setup on the front of the engine along with one in front of the radiator and AC condenser. So at least that bit is 'simpler'.


Things to do -
Contact maker of tune to get a general idea of what the tune should do in 'normal' conditions.
Verify o2 sensor signal @ sensor and verify o2 sensor heater circuit
Check battery voltage at ECM when CEL is thrown.

Godson
April 1st, 2014, 02:58 PM
O2 sensor was the cause.


It was adapting, but to slow. 50 bucks and a quick solder job and the light was gone. That was after I dropped the exhaust, (which a header stud sheared off in the process) and beat on a wrench with a 5lb sledge to remove it. All but the last thread required me to use the sledge. Threads were ok.



Things to do on Hans, get different mid-section with an 02 bung welded to the side so I can actually access the O2 sensor without dropping the exhaust.

thesameguy
April 1st, 2014, 03:08 PM
O2 sensors are the worst. On c900s they are on a tiny little elbow piece and essentially impossible to do on the car if there's going to be any trouble at all. You can fit a wrench in there, but if any actual force is called for you gotta pull the elbow off. A couple years back I had one that wouldn't go easily so took the elbow off and clamped it in the vice to go at it with impact tools. An important thing to mention is that my vice isn't attached to anything. It's big and heavy, but just sitting there. I like being able to take it outside for messy stuff, like wire wheel-ing, etc. I put a big ol socket on my 600lb ft impact and stuck it over the O2 sensor and pulled the trigger and the whole fucking vice spun. There was so much movement -vice spinning, O2 sensor spinning in the vice, my hand wobbling from all the unexpected weight. How I did not emerge with some sort of injury is kinda amazing in and of itself, but in the moment of action I knocked a shit ton of stuff off the bench and all over the place. At first I was pretty angry, but it became really funny really quickly.

Anyway, impact tools FTW.

Godson
April 1st, 2014, 03:19 PM
:lol:


That would have been awesome to see.

Random
April 1st, 2014, 03:22 PM
Random question: did the 95 M3 get the same dual exhaust setup that the later cars did, or did it get the 2-1 merge before the cats like the contemporary 325s?

Godson
April 1st, 2014, 06:43 PM
I was under the impression they all merged before the cats. Got any photos.

Random
April 1st, 2014, 07:07 PM
*heads off to google*

http://img321.imageshack.us/img321/4120/obd1vsobd2cats2ag.jpg

Top is reportedly from a 95 M3, so it looks like they changed things based on OBDI vs OBDII. Interesting.

edit: just noticed the wee little h-pipe in the OBD-II setup. Neat.

Godson
April 1st, 2014, 07:35 PM
Interesting.

Mine is like the top

Godson
April 2nd, 2014, 09:55 PM
So...


After a lot of thought. The car is going to be returned to stock condition and sold. I have a fever for something special and American. Might take a year or 2 to get the funds.

thesameguy
April 2nd, 2014, 10:18 PM
'Murica?

Godson
April 3rd, 2014, 12:39 AM
Yup, with 16 fuel injectors and 7k rpm DOHC and 32 valves

Yw-slayer
April 3rd, 2014, 01:46 AM
It's always tough, bro. I love my Legacy so much, but it's getting old so it would be nice to have a newer car, but I think it's the best-looking Subaru ever made, but the new Legacy/Levorg don't look too bad, but paying USD8K/year to park a car worth maybe USD15K right now doesn't make much sense particularly when we already have a new 7-seat Ford S-Max...

I know what you mean, bro. :(

Kchrpm
April 3rd, 2014, 05:40 AM
Yup, with 16 fuel injectors and 7k rpm DOHC and 32 valves
*ears perk up*

Godson
April 3rd, 2014, 10:21 AM
It's always tough, bro. I love my Legacy so much, but it's getting old so it would be nice to have a newer car, but I think it's the best-looking Subaru ever made, but the new Legacy/Levorg don't look too bad, but paying USD8K/year to park a car worth maybe USD15K right now doesn't make much sense particularly when we already have a new 7-seat Ford S-Max...

I know what you mean, bro. :(

It is tough, but this isn't "newer"


*ears perk up*

hush ;)

Rob
April 3rd, 2014, 10:48 AM
C4 ZR-1?

Or something with an older Northstar?

Godson
April 3rd, 2014, 10:52 AM
Fuck the northstar.



And possibly. ;)

Yw-slayer
April 3rd, 2014, 03:58 PM
You're such an attention whore. ;)

Godson
April 3rd, 2014, 06:05 PM
Maximum rpm douchebag ;)

Yw-slayer
April 4th, 2014, 01:05 AM
Point proven ;)

Godson
April 4th, 2014, 01:51 AM
:lol: Just for the record, I was referring to myself as maximum rpm douchebag. I may or may not have a photo of me doing the Usain Bolt, inside, at a bar, wearing sunglasses, at 2 am.


Possibly have 2 parties interested in the coil-overs. Once those are gone and I have stock suspension back under the car, I will be looking finding vaders.

Russ, you have any interest in some Enkei OR52 to drive around on. 17x7 dual bolt pattern. I know the snow tires are useless for you, but I figured I'd give ya first crack at them.

Random
April 4th, 2014, 06:53 AM
No, thanks. :)

Godson
April 4th, 2014, 10:57 PM
Anything you are looking for?

Random
April 5th, 2014, 10:52 AM
Got a spare S50B32? Haha.

Godson
April 8th, 2014, 01:00 AM
Suspension seems like it is sold or traded for with a stock M3 suspension w/ gun stuff, I'd rather have the cash though.


I am currently trying to figure out the seating arrangement, as I sold the vaders so switch to the buckets. In hindsight it was not the best of ideas.


Should I shell out 600-800 for a decent set of manual vaders locally, or should I nab some power E46 sport seats for 200 with one minor tear in it?

Stock vs 'Upgrade'





I am leaning towards stock, but my car is not close to that. I need some input. This is on a car with 146k miles on a 5 out of 10 on body. I have receipts for EVERYTHING I have done on it. 3 sets of wheels, 2 have tires. I was thinking 7k is plausible.

Godson
April 8th, 2014, 01:08 AM
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=630542

This is what is involved in the swap. I could knock it out in about 2 -3 hours tops.

novicius
April 8th, 2014, 07:57 AM
Did something bad happen to the car that you want to dump it? :?

Random
April 8th, 2014, 08:23 AM
V8 swap gone wrong.

*ducks*

:toast:

thesameguy
April 8th, 2014, 09:46 AM
Why not just sell the car as-is? With a less than perfect body the upgrade parts should help position it more as "track day fun car" instead of "excellent example of early M3," which it's not. Without flawless cosmetics, I don't know that you'll hit $7k, and the upgrades might get you there or over.

Godson
April 8th, 2014, 11:07 AM
The issue is the lack of safe seatbelts...

Godson
April 8th, 2014, 11:11 AM
Did something bad happen to the car that you want to dump it? :?


Because I want to pursue my chilhood love of a certain car. Time is right to begin the pursuit.

Kchrpm
April 8th, 2014, 12:19 PM
Because I want to pursue my chilhood love of a certain car. Time is right to begin the pursuit.
:up:

Godson
April 8th, 2014, 01:34 PM
Now I am having cold feet again.


With the sell of the car, what do I gain?


Pros for selling the car:

Purchase of 4wd tow rig that I would daily when required.
I could begin pay-down of student loans a little early with overage of sale. (or savings toward dream car)
Would definitely motivate me to not spend money on vehicle other than needed maintenance.
I would have a winter beater that I wouldn't give a damn about
Cheap repairs
Haul more people comfortably as needed. (I have been used as a taxi more and more the last year than I think I ever have been)
Crazy weather would be a none issue. (even though I have driven in 6in of snow on the roads in my car without much trouble)



Cons for Selling the Car:

I would lose the 24-25mpg I have been getting when driving the 4wd pig (likely be in the 15-16mpg range with the vehicle I am looking at). This could be mildly mitigated with the Monster. I'd need to do a cost benefit analysis to be doubly sure.
poor resale right now
Car is not in the best of shape and I would need to invest 800-1200 to get a decent ROI and ease of sale. (I need to sit down and look this over.)
No longer own a car I enjoy (not exactly a bad thing)



Pros for Keeping:

24-25mpg for a daily
I know the car is mechanically sound and I know the e36 chassis inside and out
I have plenty of tools and the simplistic nature of the E36 is helpful
I don't have the issue of trying to sell it
I love the car
I have several sets of wheels/tires allowing weather flexibility



Cons for keeping:

I might get distracted with investing money into this car rather than my eye on the prize of the Dream car and bike mindset.
parts on e36 can be expensive (head gasket repair)
Not a very good people hauler with more than 2-3 people
6+ inches of snow would be difficult to handle
I would be emotionally attached to the vehicle in the case of damage from winter driving.







Opinions? I honestly don't think I can sell this car as is and feel OK with it. Door panel needs to be recovered on drivers side, headliner needs to be recovered after I tore it down. Rust is starting to form on passenger side tail light. I have a rotational noise in reverse that makes me think something is rubbing on the drive-shaft/guibo. Fiberglass buckets that are non-adjustable and don't have ability to use factory seat belts (state law for Missouri Vehicle Inspection)

thesameguy
April 8th, 2014, 03:21 PM
IMHO, if you're even thinking of selling it don't put a dime into it. If you sell it right now, even for less than it is potentially worth, you are putting coin in your pocket. If you put money into it, that is eating away at your take. Unless you have firm numbers you can assign to each option - as-is vs. repaired - and build a real, financially quantifiable path between the two I'd do nothing. eg, if you can sell it for $4,000 right now and $9,000 in near-mint condition, can you get it from where it is now to near-mint for five grand? Personally, I doubt it. If getting rid of the car is the course, cut your losses and ditch. That's my advice. It's a rare day and a rare car where you can play "restore my car" and reliably come out ahead.

As for dump vs. keep, I'd ask how married you are to an early E36 M3 and whether the difficulties of owning one are offset by either the positives of owning something else, or reduced by the difficulties of something else. If it's not the car you plan to die in, and there is no evidence showing an alternative would have an upsettingly different cost of ownership, why not move on?

novicius
April 9th, 2014, 07:55 AM
It took me a long time to get used to the idea of "Rig & Motorcycle" as my modes of transport -- but here I am and the water is fine.

Godson
April 9th, 2014, 09:44 AM
:up:


That is what I wanted to hear. I need reassurance.


Currently I think I could grab 4500 for my car as is.


Currently I am going to recover the door panels myself (cost of 100$ for both sides with a new headliner).

Sell my suspension for 600 with trade for stock M3 suspension (8k miles). Pick up a set of stock seats for 700 (currently at a net loss of -200).


List car for 6800.



Aim for sale of 6500. I am in the reconditioning for $200 for an increase in sale of ~2k.

I will then sell the fiberglass buckets for 200.

Random
April 9th, 2014, 04:35 PM
Which seats did you have?

Godson
April 9th, 2014, 06:21 PM
Manual Vaders

Random
April 9th, 2014, 06:30 PM
No, the fiberglass buckets--what are they?

Godson
April 10th, 2014, 08:16 AM
NRG medium in black (faded gray) cloth.

Random
April 10th, 2014, 09:16 AM
These? https://www.getnrg.com/products/interior-products/seats/carbon-fiber-bucket-seats/frp-310

Are the covers removable?

Godson
April 10th, 2014, 01:38 PM
That looks like them. And I believe they are removable. I'll double check tomorrow after capstone.

Godson
April 13th, 2014, 08:13 AM
Just put vaders that came out of a 62k mile car. They are mint. I forgot how shitty the driving position is with vaders. Verrrry laid back even with everything setup to have the highest angle for the back.

Stock suspension will be swapped on this Saturday, going to get vinyl and headliner material Mon/ Tues and start that process this week.


Hoping to have it all handled and nice before may.


The NRGs fabric Cover is removable.

Random
April 13th, 2014, 09:06 AM
Hmmmm.

Godson
April 13th, 2014, 06:52 PM
200 + shipping. You'll be best off to have the VAC mounts or similar.

Godson
April 13th, 2014, 10:01 PM
Current market for M3s in the area are in the 10k range with 110k miles on it. I might be able to ask for more. We shall see.

Godson
April 14th, 2014, 04:47 AM
and the drivers side vader just reclined all the way back on me. Didn't sound like anything broke, just gradually leaned back.


Scouring the realoem parts diagrams to get an idea on what is busted.




I wouldn't even be driving the fucking thing if it wasn't snowing outside.

Random
April 14th, 2014, 06:43 AM
Probably stripped one of the little plastic gears--mine didn't suddenly break, just failed to return to the upright position when asked. It's a relatively easy fix.

Godson
April 14th, 2014, 06:58 AM
it fucked up the seat back...

Godson
April 16th, 2014, 07:46 AM
Seat back collapsed. I ordered a new one from the dealer at 55$.

Cheapass design.435

Random
April 16th, 2014, 08:22 AM
Lardass. ;)

Godson
April 17th, 2014, 08:46 PM
Just picked up the vinyl and the headliner for the interior overhaul.

I hope to get to at least the headliner done tomorrow, with the suspension sale/swap on Saturday. Then get to the Door panel(s) sometime next week, I'll get photos up of the process (really just a before and after). This is my first time attempting this stuff, so it should be interesting. Especially with the door panel curves and whatnot.

Godson
April 19th, 2014, 03:02 PM
Suspension swap timewise wasn't good for either of us (because I can't drive my car to his house, or he have time to drive to mine). I finished up the headliner and it definitely makes the interior look a lot nicer. Did the moonroof fabric card, headliner, and the moonroof motor cover. Total time was around ~10 hours. Photos later as phone is charging.


Nobody in the USA or Germany has the seat back. So I am going to need to look around in some local junkyards. Had a guy who had a seat, but come to find out it was a composite back and won't work. Going to scrounge local junkyards later this week if I don't get any more bites from locals.

Godson
April 21st, 2014, 12:19 PM
As expected, door panels are showing to be somewhat difficult to recover. Might be doing it in 2 pieces.

thesameguy
April 21st, 2014, 01:30 PM
Upholstery work sucks. Period. Period. Exclamation Point!

Godson
April 21st, 2014, 01:34 PM
It should have been a clue when a very reputable shop said they won't touch the job. I know some guys have done fabric, but on an M3 is sacrilege.

Godson
April 21st, 2014, 01:54 PM
Might have a lead on the seat back frame. Going to hear back from them in the morning if they still have it (had been in inventory for 1183 days)

Random
April 21st, 2014, 02:09 PM
I'm kind of impressed that you broke the frame. What have you been doing in that seat?! :lol:

Godson
April 21st, 2014, 04:56 PM
I just bought the damned thing from another guy. He was heavier set and I think he tracked the car they came from.

thesameguy
April 22nd, 2014, 10:43 AM
Maybe the car got rear-ended? That breaks seat backs frequently.

Godson
April 22nd, 2014, 11:42 AM
I think it was curbed. Either way, chasing out seat backs....

Godson
April 22nd, 2014, 01:40 PM
Found 2 seats. Going to pick one up later this week and get my car back on the road. Still trying to figure out how to handle the door upholstery.

thesameguy
April 22nd, 2014, 01:51 PM
Strip it out, sell it as a track car? :D

Godson
April 22nd, 2014, 01:56 PM
Yeah... no.


Judging by the current market, if I can nab a door panel that is in OK condition, I should be able to get 7-8k in this market.

Godson
April 30th, 2014, 07:47 PM
Got the new to me seat back frame installed, and now my seat heater is broken...I think.


I am going to do a continuity check here in a little bit. Hopefully I just have it hooked up wrong.


I hate vaders. Uncomfortable and they make you sit too high up.


Looking at 2001 - 2003 QX4s/Pathfinders. Apparently 24mpg on the highway is not uncommon according to fuelly. Seems a lot of people are averaging 18-19 with them. Price is a little higher than I would like at 5k, but if I can pull ~8k for Hans, I'm OK with that.

Currently looking at these 2


2002 QX4 (http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/cto/4430016327.html)
http://images.craigslist.org/00y0y_6MdwSUW3D1u_600x450.jpg

2001 QX4 (http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4442020014.html)
http://images.craigslist.org/00w0w_ggFscMpLpkS_600x450.jpg

samoht
May 2nd, 2014, 02:50 PM
I'm confused - how does selling Hans and getting one of the above bring you closer to ZR-1 goodness?

Godson
May 2nd, 2014, 05:15 PM
I need something to drive in winter weather... ;)

Random
May 2nd, 2014, 05:38 PM
Why not just pick up a cheap Cherokee each winter?

Godson
May 2nd, 2014, 07:43 PM
Because I refuse to follow dockonomics.



And I hate jeep.

Random
May 2nd, 2014, 08:02 PM
It's actually the Yeti Plan(tm). ;)

But fair enough on the brand choice. A succession of Legacies/Outbacks would work too. :) Just sayin'.

CudaMan
May 4th, 2014, 09:55 PM
I always preferred the more rugged styling of the Pathfinders, but in either guise I approve. :up:

Godson
May 5th, 2014, 09:57 PM
Car was just listed on a local bimmer group.

Godson
May 8th, 2014, 08:42 PM
Got a hit from my Autocross group. Here's to hoping.

Godson
May 17th, 2014, 11:57 AM
Got the car switched back to stock suspension on Thursday.









Driver side rear shock tower failed yesterday. Fuck this car.

Random
May 17th, 2014, 01:59 PM
The actual shock tower, or the RSM?

Godson
May 18th, 2014, 05:48 PM
The actual tower.


I already had one sitting in a box for "just in case" and it appears that wasn't in vain. Going to replace it on Thursday, but this is making it hard for me to give a shit right now about trying to get decent attempt at a sale.

Random
May 18th, 2014, 06:08 PM
Dude.

Godson
May 18th, 2014, 06:16 PM
Yeah.

Godson
May 22nd, 2014, 07:13 PM
Drivers side rear shock tower now replaced. I need to figure out the door panel (actually the lack thereof). Aiming to have it on cl by Saturday.

Godson
May 23rd, 2014, 03:21 AM
Another hit from the local Euro FB group.

Guy seems interested, just need to get it washed up and cleaned for photos today to send him by tonight. Already told him about the door panel and he seemed OK with it considering the price of the car.


I am also doing a cooling system overhaul on one of my Mom's co-workers 328 today, so it should be a rather busy day.

Godson
May 25th, 2014, 09:23 AM
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4487608652.html

Godson
June 5th, 2014, 09:14 PM
:mad:

rant to follow




DO NOT text message me at midnight, after reading an ad on a local owners group that says 5500FIRM, and offer me 4500.



You little self-centered twat. I can part this car out for more than what I am selling it for.


And then you ask me if 5k is adequate. I am giving a shit ton of stuff with the car. I can't fucking believe people.


/rant

thesameguy
June 6th, 2014, 09:02 AM
That's why I don't do phone numbers on CL. People are positively retarded.

Godson
June 6th, 2014, 12:11 PM
He wasn't a cl klob.


He saw the ad on a local BMW group.

Godson
June 8th, 2014, 04:37 PM
Had another bite today by someone else.


Fucktard today from cl offered me 3250 and stated "car isn't worth isnt worth as much due to being modified".

He then tried to act like he was going to do me a favor by buying it for bless than the sum of the parts.

I politely turned the other cheek and declined.

Godson
July 29th, 2014, 08:35 AM
Might be sold...

Random
July 29th, 2014, 10:15 AM
Heh, three grand is what high-miles plain E36es are going for. Derp.

Godson
July 29th, 2014, 01:05 PM
Mine will be going for 4500..............

novicius
July 31st, 2014, 06:28 AM
Hard to break even in the Big Boy Toys game.

Godson
August 7th, 2014, 08:14 AM
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4607059648.html


Around We Go Again.

novicius
August 7th, 2014, 10:15 AM
Who did you pay to make that ad?? 'Cause there is an epic *ton* more pics on that one page than in this entire thread! :finger: ;)

thesameguy
August 7th, 2014, 12:06 PM
But a lot more words in this thread. Let's do the math and find out of pictures really are worth a thousand words!

Godson
August 7th, 2014, 01:57 PM
Who did you pay to make that ad?? 'Cause there is an epic *ton* more pics on that one page than in this entire thread! :finger: ;)

Sorry, but I prefer to drive rather than clean :)

Godson
August 9th, 2014, 01:30 PM
Sale pending...for 4500 :(

Godson
August 11th, 2014, 07:50 PM
Sold.

thesameguy
August 11th, 2014, 08:05 PM
Well, maybe not ideal, but at least it's not your concern anymore! Onto better things!

Godson
August 11th, 2014, 08:17 PM
Yeah. I needed the money for the house. I'd prefer it to knock down debt, but I think the time to buy a house is now. Who knows, maybe I will get cold feet and decide to just stay at the rents and pay everything off before moving out (+/- 12 months)

novicius
August 12th, 2014, 06:27 AM
Yep, onward & upward! :up: :up: