View Full Version : Cuda's Cars, v2.0

Pages : 1 2 3 [4] 5

February 24th, 2017, 12:41 PM
Nice! (They are called rivets (http://www.today.com/style/what-are-those-little-studs-jeans-actually-there-purpose-t94496))

March 5th, 2017, 07:27 PM
Blue Z updates:

Remember how I got my turns confused on the front tie rods when doing my first home alignment and my steering ended up crooked but the car drove well and stopped wearing out the front tires so rapidly? No? Well I just reminded you because I accidentally fixed it. :p When I had the steering wheel off to wrap the silver trim in CF vinyl, I noticed it wasn't lined up with the mark on the shaft. When I put it back on I did it right, come what may. Figuring I'd do the alignment again someday and get it right. Well sometimes in life you get lucky, because the steering is dead straight now driving down the highway. :)


For some reason radio reception is suddenly terrible. I'm 99% sure the antenna hasn't come unplugged from the HU because when I was testing things with the center stack all apart, the HU wouldn't power up until I plugged in the antenna. I think at the time with the car being in the garage for weeks I chalked poor radio reception up to being in the garage. But out and about on the road it's pretty bad, almost making FM unusable. Hmmm. CD player and iPod work perfectly.


New low seat mount makes the seat really low! Russ you wouldn't be able to see out :random:. I actually almost liked it higher I think... but this lowers my CG and gives me more headroom so maybe worth it.

This is about eye level: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffyqJvApQmA

March 5th, 2017, 07:37 PM
I'm used to that. :p I had to sit on one jacket, with another behind me, to drive The Goblin. :lol:

edit: needed your "Nationals" rev-limit for that course. ;)

March 5th, 2017, 08:47 PM
Stratospheric revs are strictly on an 'as-needed' basis. :D Usual tire size would have given us another ~3mph.

What was the Goblin again?

March 5th, 2017, 08:48 PM
IMOA's S14. :)

March 29th, 2017, 10:09 AM
In contrast to Novi's adventures, I've been working on clean bits.

Both Zs paint corrected and detailed. Such clean paint now! Washing is so much easier on decontaminated, smooth and slippery paint. Now the windshields and hatch glass stand out - I should polish those to get water spots and stains off.

Silver, with fresh blue stripe added:



Blue before:

Blue after:




Well, mostly the clean bits. We changed the oil and the clutch fluid in the blue car yesterday. Bleeding the clutch was an interesting/educational experience. I don't fully understand how you build pressure in a clutch hydraulic system but it seemed to be needed and the timing of closing the bleed valve was critical to getting a good pedal at the end. Generally as the process went along it took fewer and fewer pumps to get the pedal to return to the top on its own. At first it took 10-15. By the end we got it to be solid on the first release after closing the bleed valve. I couldn't actually see air pockets come out of the bleed valve as such, just a few tiny dots which may have been itty bitty bubbles in the old fluid. Hard to say.

Used up some SuperBlue brake fluid for that. One more bottle left and then the wonderful color change will be gone forever. Darn DOT.

New tires arriving hopefully tomorrow for the Fontana ProSolo this weekend.

March 29th, 2017, 10:12 AM
Oh, I'm pretty sure something got into the engine bay and died. The smell, especially after washing the car, is pretty bad up there. Focused between the engine and radiator. I can't find squat though. I've removed undertray panels, poked around, used a mirror... nothing. The rad fans turn freely. Nothing in the intakes. I hope whatever it is decomposes quickly and the smell stops soon.

March 29th, 2017, 10:31 AM
In contrast to Novi's adventures, I've been working on clean bits.
Hey-oh! :lol: #zing

Cars look luscious, Cuda! :up: :up:

March 29th, 2017, 02:23 PM
Hey-oh! :lol: #zing
Did I say something unintentionally funny? :) #doesntgethisownjoke

March 29th, 2017, 05:21 PM
Nah, the truth hurts! :D #rustmonster

EDIT: Also the front 3/4 shots of the 350Z just look *so* good... :up: :up:

April 5th, 2017, 12:50 PM
Fontana ProSolo last weekend. Early adopter on a new 200tw tire: Nexen SUR4G. It's good. Lots of lateral grip, great braking, much more progressive at the limit than RE-71R without feeling mushy like the Rival S. Winner. :up: Also quieter on the street than RE-71R.


Drag racing a C5: :lol:


April 5th, 2017, 12:59 PM
MR2 shenanigans:

I lucked into something super cool - a vintage boost gauge! Well, it better matches the vintage of the MR2 anyway. :) My sister's bf, who currently tracks an Elise and has other cool/weird cars, used to have an MR2T and found this never-installed gauge recently. The scale is the same as my existing one, which is perfect for the MR2. The black will match the interior better, and I like how the vacuum and boost ends of the scale are a different color. The black one also happens to read 0 with the engine off, which I can't say for the white one. I reckon this should be a very plug-n-play install once I can figure out how to cleanly remove the A-pillar mount. My car came with this setup when I bought it.


April 5th, 2017, 01:15 PM
SportComp 3301!

You can actually still buy those brand new, and I think I will have to take mild offense at calling a 10 year old design vintage. :mad:

April 5th, 2017, 04:07 PM
Let me know on the nexen. If all goes as planned, I will be auto-x bound next year.

April 5th, 2017, 06:05 PM
What else do you want to know Tyler? :)

Shoot, Justin, you mean to tell me they still make this gauge? I think this one was purchased well over 10 years ago. Heck, the ProComp Ultra-Lite was in my car when I bought it over 10 years ago, and I don't think it was new then. The SportComp has an older look to it compared to the ProComp UL.

So smart guy, what color does the ring light up at night on the 3301? :) Is the lens tinted or is the bulb tinted? My existing gauge lights up green to match the 90s Toyota interior.

April 5th, 2017, 09:12 PM
Hells yeah they still make the Sport Comp line... they have discontinued remarkably few of the c2000+ Autometer gauges. I guess VDO still makes Vision gauges that match the '80s, so why not Autometer.. but it still surprises me. I was able to buy a Phantom vacuum gauge a couple years ago to match the voltmeter are A:F gauges I originally bought in 2002.

As for the light, they can be white, green, or red from the factory - they supply little rubber condoms to go over the white bulb to make it red or green. You can buy different condoms these days and an LED upgrade, if you're into that. I found the green was too light to match the green in the SPG, so I went with white as I didn't want it to look like I went for a match and failed. :lol:

April 5th, 2017, 10:37 PM
AutoMeter: If it ain't broke...

April 6th, 2017, 07:38 AM
Thoughts on the tire and feedback, etc.

I knew you would make it win in large fashion...

April 6th, 2017, 07:45 AM
Drag racing a C5: :lol:

Love it! :D :up:

Z06 or simple FRC? He should switch to five-spoke rims. ;) #judgy

April 6th, 2017, 07:59 AM
No rear brake vent, so FRC. (Plus the Z06 isn't legal for STU, but you are excused from knowing that. ;))

April 6th, 2017, 08:01 AM
Ah my bad. :lol:

April 6th, 2017, 10:06 AM
STU has a tire width limit (285mm) so those wheels were probably selected because they're the right width, offset, and they're light. Does seem weird to see NT-03s on an American car. :)

Tyler - my initial post on the Nexens has a pretty good TL;DR summary of what I think. They also warm up quickly and so far I haven't found the upper thermal limit where they start to drop off. Really impressive tire I think, and will probably surprise a few people how all-around good it is from a company most haven't heard of.

April 6th, 2017, 02:30 PM
The nt03 is odd. They must be custom drilled. As the bp doesn't match up to the Vette. I scored some brand new '04 speedline zo6 wheels, 18x10.5 and 20.2 lbs each for cheaper than the nt03 is....

April 6th, 2017, 02:37 PM
Isn't the Corvette the same 5x120 as a BMW?

April 6th, 2017, 02:41 PM

April 6th, 2017, 02:43 PM
Bah. .65mm isn't worth splitting hairs. It is split hairs. :lol:

June 14th, 2017, 08:08 PM
I can't remember if I've mentioned this before, but the blue car has had this smell for several months that sticks around for a day or two after it's washed. It smelled like it was coming from around the radiator area or inside the front bumper -- as if something had crawled up there and died, and moisture made it smell real bad. I had checked all up behind the radiator and anywhere I could see/reach and found nothing.

A few days ago since a fender liner decided it had had enough, I decided to disassemble more and really go hunting for this smell. I thought it highly likely taking the other fender liner out would reveal something. Nope. [Well, I did see that the huge windshield washer bottle was nearly full, so I emptied most of it for weight savings.] With the liners removed it became pretty obvious how the bumper attached, and I had a ton of fresh bugs to clean out of the condenser anyway, so off came the bumper. My next theory was something was inside the aluminum bumper beam. Nothing there either! After cleaning the bugs from the condenser, which involved a hose at the end, I started to smell that smell again. Current theory is something is embedded in the foam that's under the condenser, or something is stuck between condenser and radiator. Either way it'll require removal of those things and I really don't feel like re-filling a ton of fluids right now. I Febreze'd the foam which, as I suspected, didn't do much.

Plus side, I was able to massage a couple panel gaps with the front bumper to make the car look a little better. :lol: OCD satisfied.

This car is so easy to work on.


June 15th, 2017, 04:38 AM
:cool: :up:

June 29th, 2017, 10:09 AM
Stock shocks do not control an 800lb/in spring well.


(It's actually pretty OK if you don't go over any sudden bumps. Which you will, from time to time. Boing! I'm In The Back (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3OfFk_R7ns))

July 3rd, 2017, 10:30 AM
Ok, so that was actually a worse idea than I thought. Car was a mess at the autox on a smooth surface. The worst part was the Torsen style LSD wasn't working at all - somehow the OEM shocks in place of the race shocks ruin the diff's ability to do work. One tire fire was the order of the day, on top of unpredictable behavior from the rear of the car in turns and transitions. Neither of us had fun so we parked it for Day 2 of the event and bummed rides from other people.

Driving a 997 GT3RS on Hoosiers more than made up for Saturday's handling disappointment. :D

July 3rd, 2017, 10:34 AM
Lol. Jealous

July 3rd, 2017, 12:25 PM
I think that's the complaint with Torsen LSDs... They only work when both wheels have traction... If one unloads the whole thing stops working. Maybe lighter duty shocks don't keep both rear wheels adequately planted on tight turns.

July 3rd, 2017, 01:04 PM
It was unexpected because I was pretty sure the stock shocks would bottom out internally and thus limit the amount of lateral weight transfer in the back. Which should unload the inside rear less than before. (The race shocks have a lot more compression travel.) But yeah, that's the downside of the Torsen but it hasn't been a problem until now.

July 5th, 2017, 11:56 AM
GT3RS run in a nut shell.

Ticket dude: Was that your best run?
CudaMan: (nonchalantly) Yeah, i think i kept it clean, too.


July 5th, 2017, 07:45 PM
I hit 1 or 2 cones on the previous run trying to go a little bit too quickly through the slalom. :)

For those who haven't seen on FB:


July 6th, 2017, 04:32 AM
So easy? Yeah! :D :up:

July 18th, 2017, 08:02 PM
Just another day in (someone else's) office. :) As I told the owner, the car is equal parts engaging and challenging at the limit so it really gets my wheels turning as far as extracting the most from it.


While I was away on a work trip, T was driving the 2003 Z and it overheated after 15 minutes of city driving. Went into limp mode and threw a code, which was her first clue something was wrong. She waited for it to cool down, cleared the code and added some water and drove back home with no issues. If I can deal with the heat this week I'll start checking things out. I'm not really sure what to look for just yet - I guess as long as it has coolant in it and there are no obvious leaks, I'll have to drive it around close to home and see if it does it again. :shrug:

This means the blue Z is the daily driver for now. Last night I went to get Japanese take-out at this place that's one of our regulars. I knew the driveways were steep at this shopping plaza, so I didn't even try to climb them. Instead I parked in front of a house that was a 2-minute walk from the restaurant. I'm such a bad man.

July 18th, 2017, 10:47 PM
You can buy cooling system pressure testers, which simulate the car running without it being running so you can more easily see what leaks. On some cars, you can make one using a spare coolant cap and some sort of valve - a Shraeder valve from a bike works well. Epoxy the two together, add about 15psi via a bike pump. It's not perfect - I am still fighting a very.slow.leak on the Aero, but if you plowed through that much coolant that quickly, you will probably find it easily.

Alternatively, you could add dye to the system and get a UV light to spot it. Also not perfect, since coolant especially tends to get blown around underhood and tracing it back to the source can be difficult, but it's another low-output option.

July 19th, 2017, 09:30 AM
Well I didn't see any obvious fresh leaks upon visual inspection this morning. The engine bay was kinda dirty though too. I checked the coolant level and it was a bit below the MIN marker (even after T said she added some water) so I added water to the MAX line, cleaned the engine bay, and ran the car. All seemed ok, even after driving it around the block a few times. It probably ran for 20-25 minutes total and I made sure to include some high RPM with that. After the drive the coolant was still at the MAX mark and I didn't see any evidence of leaks yet.

Truth be told I haven't checked the coolant level in a very long time, it's possible there was a slow leak over the past year+ and I never knew it.

July 20th, 2017, 10:33 PM
After a couple days more driving (short trips) the coolant level has gone more than halfway down to the LOW mark. Hmm. This reservoir doesn't have an overflow tube on it - that's on the radiator. It just has a plastic screw cap, which is split open. I'm wondering if coolant is simply evaporating out of the reservoir. New caps are $20+ from the dealer which is shtoopid, so the internets will make me wait a few days for a more reasonable replacement. Meantime the oil is due for a change which will give me a chance to check for coolant in the oil. That would suck. Not common on these cars at all, so I'm cautiously optimistic the HGs are still OK.

Side note: torque, and the ability to transfer it to the ground, is an awesome thing. Just sayin'.

July 20th, 2017, 11:15 PM
Is the pressure cap on the radiator or on the overflow?

July 20th, 2017, 11:22 PM
It just has a plastic screw cap, which is split open.

Meaning "broken"? That would be the problem, then.

July 20th, 2017, 11:24 PM
No virtual cars, I reckon?

July 20th, 2017, 11:50 PM
I also would suggest a pressure tester. My semi tame mechanic has found some really tiny water leaks on my race car over the years with his pressure tester.

July 21st, 2017, 12:09 AM
Is the pressure cap on the radiator or on the overflow?

Yeah sorry, my train of thought tends to jump around a lot. The metal pressure cap is on the rad. This off-white plastic reservoir off to the side just has what is essentially a plastic bottle cap that is split open as if it was screwed down way too hard.

July 21st, 2017, 05:24 AM
Side note: torque, and the ability to transfer it to the ground, is an awesome thing. Just sayin'.

I wouldn't know. ;)

July 22nd, 2017, 02:03 PM
Yeah I get spoiled daily driving on "200TW" race tires with tread.


The coolant in the 350Z disappears not after a drive, but after sitting. I've been checking regularly. Leads me to believe the evaporation theory is the culprit. I've temporarily duct-taped the cap to try to form a better seal. See if that does anything.

July 25th, 2017, 10:50 AM
Hmm. New cap installed yesterday afternoon right after topping up the reservoir with distilled water. Ran a few errands last night. This morning, checked the level before starting the car and it was halfway down to LOW. Drove to a couple places, returned home and the level was right at the FULL mark again. Ok so maybe hot/cold makes a difference to the level (I would think there would be markers on the reservoir if that was the case - I've seen this on P/S reservoirs for example). So I'm checking it every so often now today. Still full after 30 minutes...

July 25th, 2017, 11:31 AM
Hot and cold will affect the level of the fluid.

July 25th, 2017, 12:20 PM
There will be instructions on how to check the level of the coolant - either cold or hot. With configurations as I understand the Z has, usually there is a level indicator on the overflow which is checked hot, maybe even running. Assuming it's a full-pressure system (like most modern cars - the radiator cap always holds pressure) overflow exists to catch whenever is expelled when pressure is exceeded due to fluid expansion. As it cools, the contents of the overflow are sucked back into the radiator. For this reason, these systems are usually checked hot as there needs to be a certain minimum level of coolant in the overflow at max pressure to ensure air isn't sucked back in when it cools. For some cars (my Jag is an example) you overfill the radiator, that overfill is expelled into the overflow and that creates the minimum level. For others (the Fiero is an example) the system is filled, run to hot, and then the level in the overflow is checked and some amount added until the HOT FULL line is reached. You can't really damage the system by overfilling it - anything truly extra will end up on the ground - but you can hurt the system by underfilling it since, again, you can end up with air in the system and that's bad. It's important to know how to check the system to avoid that latter scenario.

While it's possible to lose coolant only when cold (things contract, leaks are created) it's far more likely that you're losing it when hot (contents under pressure, being forced out). You're probably observing a hot/expanded system looking full, but when cool/contracted looks low. It might be fine - you gotta see how/when to check the level. A system that has been infiltrated with air may look more full than it actually is - air expands a lot when hot, so if it's been trapped in the system somewhere (either being sucked in from the overflow or through a leak) you can have a system that's *really* full when hot, and *really* empty when cold. Some cars (the Jag) are *really* problematic to get air out, others (the Saab) are really easy. Something someone who knows Zs would be able to comment on... but it's important there is no air in the system for this reason (and others, cavitation is bad, air is a poor conductor of heat, air will wear coolant faster).

It's pretty unlikely evap would result in effective loss. Although coolant might be expelled into the overflow at 210+ degrees, it'll cool quickly and loss from boiling would be minimal if any. Once under boiling point (which is... 230 degrees with coolant?) loss from evap would be negligible, even over a long period. The old Trans Am didn't even have a cap on the reservoir and steam would come billowing out from the hood when it was shut down and it still didn't lose much. :lol:

If it's a leak, check the easy obvious places like thermostat housings, upper radiator hoses, heater core hoses and then move onto the harder stuff like the water pump. Hopefully it's one of those things, and not some impossible to find mystery leak like the Aero... losing a cup a month sucks ass.

July 25th, 2017, 03:13 PM
I still can't find evidence of a leak. All underhood hoses are ~3 year old silicone on this car. Water pump looks ok. Hard pipes look ok from what I can see. I had the undertray panel off to do an oil change the other day and I saw no tell-tale coolant stains.

The FSM says to check the reservoir level when cool. I'm pretty sure the engine was cool when I added water and put the new cap on, but maybe it hadn't cooled enough (it had been maybe a few hours).

Still, something caused low coolant in the first place. Very mysterious. Could there be a pale green coolant that doesn't leave evidence behind when it dries?

July 25th, 2017, 03:42 PM
A small leak might not leave any trace - it may be hitting something hot and evaporating or it may be collecting in a place you can't see. I've had the Aero for seven months and I still can't find the leak, and Dexcool leaves nasty orange sludge behind usually. Small leaks are the worst. I think *really* unlikely, but it could even be a slight head gasket leak so the coolant just gets burned off. Saab 9000s are notorious for heater core leaks, so the coolant collects in the heater passages where you can't see it and ultimately evaporates. Lots of possibilities. It seems like maybe a quick leak, you probably want to do some quantitative investigations - fill when stone cold to the appropriate level, drive it around a fairly fixed distance, wait til stone cold, check again. That will help establish how much is being lost. Once you know that, you may have a better idea what you're looking for. With the Aero losing a cup every 800 miles or so it's damn near impossible to find. Even my pressure tester and dye has turned up nothing. :( I am waiting for catastrophic failure, you may not be so patient. :) Happy to mail you my pressure tester if you want to give it a go.

Edit: Worth noting, maybe, is that the Suburban was losing a fair amount of coolant for the longest time but I never found any leaks. One day I randomly felt the bottom of the coolant reservoir and it was damp, so I replaced it. Hasn't lost a drop since. Maybe the leak collected somewhere and only dripped out in motion, or maybe I just missed it repeatedly. Plastic tanks definitely age out, maybe worth looking closely at yours?

July 26th, 2017, 07:17 AM
After a couple days more driving (short trips) the coolant level has gone more than halfway down to the LOW mark. Hmm. This reservoir doesn't have an overflow tube on it - that's on the radiator. It just has a plastic screw cap, which is split open. I'm wondering if coolant is simply evaporating out of the reservoir. New caps are $20+ from the dealer which is shtoopid, so the internets will make me wait a few days for a more reasonable replacement. Meantime the oil is due for a change which will give me a chance to check for coolant in the oil. That would suck. Not common on these cars at all, so I'm cautiously optimistic the HGs are still OK.

Side note: torque, and the ability to transfer it to the ground, is an awesome thing. Just sayin'.idk... 1/2 of the coolant over a few days seems to be way more than you'd lose through evaporation on it's own. Especially if it's just through a crack.

July 26th, 2017, 10:30 AM
Found a leak. Upper radiator hose where it joins with the coolant hard pipe next to the engine. Getting my camera down underneath, it appears to be seeping from the end of the hose, and not a crack in the hose from an over-tightened clamp or something.

Currently researching how this could happen after ~3 years. Deposit buildup around the pipe? Slackening of the clamp? It's one of those worm gear clamps.

Did I mention I hate coolant flushes? :p

July 26th, 2017, 10:33 AM


July 26th, 2017, 10:43 AM
404 errors on those links.

July 26th, 2017, 11:32 AM
Try now.

Loosened the clamp (it wasn't super tight) and rotated the hose around a little. Definitely not a super tight fit and I heard some grit grinding around between the hose and pipe, while more water leaked out. I put the clamp back on gutenteit in a couple different positions and the slow leak remains.

So I think the question is do I wait for an OEM hose to come in, or can I get away with cleaning things up after draining the coolant, and maybe using some kind of sealant between the silicone hose and the hard pipe.

July 26th, 2017, 02:45 PM
Try now.

Loosened the clamp (it wasn't super tight) and rotated the hose around a little. Definitely not a super tight fit and I heard some grit grinding around between the hose and pipe, while more water leaked out. I put the clamp back on gutenteit in a couple different positions and the slow leak remains.

So I think the question is do I wait for an OEM hose to come in, or can I get away with cleaning things up after draining the coolant, and maybe using some kind of sealant between the silicone hose and the hard pipe.

I would not mess around with the URH - if that thing fails there could be serious consequences really quickly. I would probably carpe diem, replace the hose, the thermostat, and do a coolant flush... start fresh. Have a wire brush or some emery cloth on hand to polish up the radiator inlet if it's metal. If it's not, do a *thorough* inspection of it - your leak could come from a cracked plastic inlet. That's a thing on a lot of cars.

July 26th, 2017, 03:41 PM
Yep. No leak at the plastic rad. Just at the metal hardpipe on the other end of the upper radiator hose. I'll have a look at the maintenance and schedule and see if water pump etc is anywhere near due.

Anyone know if Gates etc is as good as OEM for rad hoses?

July 26th, 2017, 04:08 PM
Yep. No leak at the plastic rad. Just at the metal hardpipe on the other end of the upper radiator hose. I'll have a look at the maintenance and schedule and see if water pump etc is anywhere near due.

Anyone know if Gates etc is as good as OEM for rad hoses?

Never had a problem with any Gates product. I wouldn't hesitate.

August 2nd, 2017, 11:34 AM
When it rains it pours. Trouble with this car always seems to happen while I'm away, too! The '03 Z threw a CEL for P2135, it's not happy about some voltage difference between two throttle position sensors, or something. Internet lore says you gotta replace the TB itself. When I drove the car it behaved perfectly. Have cleared the code and we'll see what happens. Interestingly, my cheap OBD2 code reader that I use infrequently (it's the backup), displayed "P2135$10." How I wish it was a $10 repair. :lol:

Also, the headlights no longer work. It's a cheap HID kit from eBay. The passenger light usually took 2 or 3 tries to stay on, lately it has sometimes taken as many as 20-30 tries. Ballast issue I assumed. The driver side has always worked first time every time. Last night, zero headlights apparently. Again not when I was around. I think the car only has eyes for me! Last time I physically investigated the lights, it was a janky install and I decided to live with 2-3 attempts to get the headlight working. Now my hand is forced and I have to decide if I need to make my own wiring and somehow seal the hole cut into the rear headlight bucket (for the HID wiring), or try to find another HID kit to match up. Last time I looked at this kit it had no identifying marks that I could see.

On the coolant front, the upper radiator hose stopped the leak after a drain and fill. This car has an unusual (to me) bleed procedure which basically involves letting the car warm up, getting the heater working, shutting it off and waiting until it cools, then adding coolant if it's gone down at all. Rinse and repeat until the level no longer drops. It's supposed to take 2-4 times. It has been 4 days now, and the level is still dropping a bit overnight. I don't know whether to hope it's another leak somewhere or stubborn air pockets in the system.

August 2nd, 2017, 11:48 AM
Oh (https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourc eContext=carGurusHomePage_false_0&formSourceTag=112&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c422&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c26812&zip=93650&distance=200&searchChanged=true&transmission=M&bodyTypeGroupIds=0&maxPrice=16000&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true#listing=174958718) man (https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourc eContext=carGurusHomePage_false_0&formSourceTag=112&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c422&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c26812&zip=93650&distance=200&searchChanged=true&transmission=M&bodyTypeGroupIds=0&maxPrice=16000&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true#listing=179323773), that (https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourc eContext=carGurusHomePage_false_0&formSourceTag=112&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c422&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c26812&zip=93650&distance=200&searchChanged=true&transmission=M&bodyTypeGroupIds=0&maxPrice=16000&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true#listing=180662766_isFeatured) sucks (https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourc eContext=carGurusHomePage_false_0&formSourceTag=112&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c422&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c26812&zip=93650&distance=200&searchChanged=true&transmission=M&bodyTypeGroupIds=0&maxPrice=16000&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true#listing=179490239)!


August 2nd, 2017, 12:21 PM
Every car I give to the girl is the same way - I can drive it for weeks or months with zero issues, the second she's behind the wheel something goes wrong. Like clockwork. It's not even stuff that could be broken by inattentiveness, it's just bad luck.

That TPS mismatch is what broke the Jag a while back... Fortunately I had a spare TB instead of needing to buy a new $1800 one. I'm sure the Z's is cheaper. I'm actually a little surprised nobody would have figured out a repair yet.... or maybe there is a rebuilder option like BBA?

Is that bleed procedure official, or just what works? I ask because that's how you end up bleeding the Jag, but it's not the official method. The official method is a royal PITA. :) You may recall I added a bleeder valve to the XR4Ti - I did that because the only way to bleed it (with aftermarket radiator and cooling system mods) was to do the same thing and it was annoying. :) It would take weeks or months (as I drive it) to finally get the air out. With the bleeder installed, it's fill-bleed-drive-fill and you're done. Point being, I wouldn't be *too* worried about an ongoing need to refill over many drives, especially if the UHR was the source of leaks. It may have filled the system with air when cooling down, and now you need to get it back out. Sometimes parking at weird angles on a hill helps.

August 2nd, 2017, 01:25 PM
I had a dead throttle body on the Ducati. Computer says it doesn't work, they just replace the whole unit. Can't even buy the bits that make it up.
Never found out if it was a sensor or the motor. It just seems a lot of metal to replace when the issue is a single part.

August 2nd, 2017, 03:44 PM
Eh, when 1st gen Audi/VW 2.0T engines ended up with ruined camshafts due to worn cam followers, VW had dealers just replace the whole cylinder head.

August 2nd, 2017, 03:45 PM
Oh man, that red Z06 is super cheap. Too bad I'm in big-picture-life-priorities mode right now. Bet those aren't without their own set of problems either. ;)

tsg, this is the official bleed procedure. Other people have tried different things with varying results, so I went with this. Seemed simple enough. I've been tempted to open the bleed valve (aka "air relief plug") again when the car cools because that seems logical to me, but that's not part of the FSM procedure. The bleed valve appears to be the highest point in the system. Other cars I've changed the coolant on myself have had a simple procedure whereby you let the car idle with the rad cap off and it bleeds itself.


On the throttle body, I hear the position sensor is riveted on and not sold separately, so a new TB is needed. I'm hearing factory remans are $150 now. Used to be $600 for new ones.

August 3rd, 2017, 04:14 PM
Coolant went down more than usual today. I think I'm going to go off-label and undo the bleed valve first tomorrow. What's the worst that can happen.

August 3rd, 2017, 04:52 PM
That procedure is similar to a c900. You open the bleeder to let air escape as you add coolant elsewhere. The GM approach (and what I built into the XR) is to open the bleeder while warm so that cooling system pressure forces air out of the bleeder. I doubt one is "more right" than the other, the idea is the same either way.

Most modern cars have pretty complex cooling systems with more little passages and crazy hoses. It's easier for air to get trapped in the middle of the system, air that might never make it to the reservoir or radiator so you need a secondary opening at that high point. Be happy you have one... they didn't think it was necessary in the Jag. They were wrong. So wrong.

The way they manage temperatures on modern engines really requires a full air purge for proper functionality; some modern coolants also react very poorly to air, or will be compromised by air contamination (same reason to only used distilled water). It's really a good idea to get all the air out.

Opening the bleeder while the engine is stone cold won't really do anything. If you're not adding coolant at the other high point or there is no system pressure to force air out opening the bleeder will neither hurt nor help... it's just like opening the radiator cap.

Sorry this is so annoying... seems like it's a common thing on cars these days.

August 3rd, 2017, 05:09 PM
So just because the thin is riveted on, you can get it off. I'd bet there is a replacement, but at 150$, it isn't worth it.

August 3rd, 2017, 05:31 PM
Even if you could get it off you may not be able to replace it. The TPSs are screwed onto the Jag's TB, but nobody sells close-enough TPSs to replace them. Really annoying. Haha... I will bet the Z has similar unique Denso TPSs!

August 4th, 2017, 08:00 AM
Hitachi (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2003,350z,3.5l+v6,1431958,fuel+&+air,throttle+body,6472).

If my brief sleuthing is accurate, the early cars don't have coolant lines running around/through the throttle body. That makes things simpler.

Coolant bleed: but if I open the bleeder valve while the engine is hot, it'll spray coolant everywhere no?

August 4th, 2017, 08:21 AM
Maybe? Depends on the bleeder... I didn't really get a sense of it from those instructions. On the XR and the c900 it's a tiny little hole, kinda like a brake bleeder... you just crack it open and then close it up when you get a steady stream... just like brakes. If you do it when warm vs. hot it's less messy, but at worst there is only about 15psi in there so it's never hard to control. If it's not really a bleeder, but a plug or screw or whatever that has to be removed, it may be more difficult to bleed when warm... depends to some degree on the threads of the screw.

August 4th, 2017, 10:53 AM
Yeah, and just crack it open. Think of it as the throttle and easing into it.

August 4th, 2017, 12:08 PM
I think I get it. It's a plastic screw basically, with a rubber o-ring. I call it a bleeder, Nissan calls it the Air Relief Valve. What's weird is the instructions for bleeding the system say to pour coolant slowly into the radiator until coolant overflows the air relief valve at the back of the engine bay, but this seems impossible unless and until the front of the car is jacked in the air. No mention of having to do that in the FSM.

August 4th, 2017, 12:51 PM
Could be something they added or refined as a rolling upgrade or something they figured out when other techniques didn't work. Plenty of cars show up new at dealers and immediately need updates or retrofits... maybe the air relief was something added post-factory to deal with air getting trapped.

The c900 says to do it when cold - open the bleeder and fill the reservoir until there are no bubbles at the bleeder - but like the XR I prefer to do it when slightly warm, as you can just crack the bleeder and pressure forces air out. If there is air trapped throughout the system it can take a few drive/bleed cycles, but eventually all the air in the system should accumulate either at the filler or the bleeder. The filler will fix itself (into the overflow) but the bleeder you have to do manually.

If you can't get it actually full after five or six drive cycles, you may still have a leak somewhere. If the UHR wasn't sealing, other hoses are probably suspect, and it's *possible* you could have a slight head gasket leak that a) eats coolant and/or b) forced coolant out of the UHR. You can get exhaust test strips that may identify such a leak pretty painlessly. This is certainly worst-case scenario - I would hardly expect it to be the case.

August 4th, 2017, 05:23 PM
Yeah. I've done the cold, warm, and hot fill. All have the same effect.

August 6th, 2017, 12:00 PM
The coolant level in the reservoir tank was down less than yesterday, which I'm hoping is a sign that my revised technique is going in the right direction. The heater didn't seem to work very well today, though.


Headlights. So I was able to find out the car has a Xentec HID 35w kit. Looking around I don't see the same shape ballast case available anymore other than in a 10000K kit which is far too blue. My theory is the one headlight that took multiple tries to stay on had a ballast go bad, and the other side where the light stopped working altogether is a bad bulb. The OEM high beams still work fine so likely the issue is in the HID kit. It lasted a few years and I like easy plug and play solutions, but haven't figured out yet if the ones currently available would share the same plugs/connectors with my kit.

Unless.... hmmm, might've just had an epiphany. I wonder if this is an H7-specific kit so it's actually plug and play with the OEM harness. This plug (https://goo.gl/photos/n6fkZZsTnbyaAG4M8), underneath that tape, looks like it might fit the connectors of a standard H7 bulb (http://www.ijdmtoy.com/images/web_site/bulb-size/h7-bulb.jpg). Could it be that simple?

August 10th, 2017, 02:05 PM
Today was a good day in the garage.

I was right about the headlights, so a pair of Philips Xtreme Vision H7 bulbs went in and I chucked the eBay HID kit.
The coolant level hasn't changed in 3 days now. I'll keep an eye on it but I'm optimistic the problem is solved.
Rebuilt rear race shocks went back in the blue car. I also happened to discover the rear sway bar was on the wrong setting on one side. I must have re-connected it in a distracted way a few weeks ago when I was testing suspension travel/movement. Glad I caught this before Nationals.

August 16th, 2017, 10:01 AM
Doing some research for replacing the MR2's Autometer boost gauge for the one with the older face style. It looks like I have an Autometer gauge pod, held in to the stock (cut) A-pillar trim by clips like these (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/auto-meter-2859/performance-16477/gauges-16577/gauge-components-16833/gauge-pillars--pods---clusters-17807/gauge-pod-fastener/3281/2516772/1985/jaguar/xj6). What's the best way to remove these? Pull them straight out? Twist? I'm guessing they are the weakest link and pulling them would damage the clips and not the pillar trim or pod. I'd rather replace these push clips than have the pod not be tight to the pillar trim anymore, knowwhatimean?


The silver 350Z headlights keep yellowing and hazing within a couple months after machine polishing and applying sealant. I'm going to get more aggressive with them now. Meguiars Heavy Duty headlight restoration kit will be tested. It comes with sanding discs, so I'll get my feet (hands) wet learning wetsanding on plastic. It also comes with a headlight coating that sounds like it may be a new UV-resistant clear coat of sorts. Hoping that puts a longer stop to the incessant yellow haze.

August 16th, 2017, 11:08 AM
Yeah, just pull those clips out. If you have access, you can use a trim pry tool


or maybe


so you don't damage the plastic. After some time, you never know which plastic is the weak plastic. :smh:

I've tried a lot of headlight kits, but I don't think the Meguiar's one yet... I've had great results with the 3M kit - I think I posted before & after at the time. Let me know how it goes!

August 16th, 2017, 12:28 PM
I have a full set of plastic pry tools. I think one of them might be thin enough to get under the heads of these clips. I'm hoping I don't have to remove the A-pillar trim but I suspect I might.

Normally don't have much issue with headlights, and treating them like paint (clay, polish, seal) has worked for me in the past. These are being real boogers.

August 24th, 2017, 10:20 PM
The '03 has a grind/whir noise when the A/C is on. It started doing it last summer, but only made the noise occasionally when it was 100+ degrees outside. Now, it's pretty much any time the A/C is engaged. I did re-tension the belt before this started, because it was squealing. Wonder if over-tightening the belt would lead to bearing damage. Seemed like if I left it any looser it would squeal.

I'm thinking A/C pulley bearing or perhaps idler bearing. In a quick search I don't see A/C clutch/pulley assemblies available separately from an entire A/C compressor unit. There's a huge jump in labor and cost there, going from replacing a bearing to practically refreshing the entire system. Might have to disassemble and if it's not a bearing (which I would assume is a relatively standard part that I could find separately with some sleuthing), find a clutch from a junkyard or something.

October 4th, 2017, 10:56 PM
Not much to update here lately, the cars are driving along nicely. :up: #knockonwood

But... sooo... if one man wanted to replace his FR car's clutch using jack stands and a rented tranny jack, would one man be crazy? Clutch jobs are expensive...

October 5th, 2017, 03:28 AM
Depends on the transmission, but certainly not inherently.

Assuming we're not talking about some big ass truck with a 250lb transmission, the biggest factor for me would be access to the bell housing bolts. If access isn't a major hassle, I'd go for it. Eh, maybe in some other places I'd be concerned about the exhaust - which probably needs to be moved or removed, but in California it's a not much of a worry. Typically, it's drop the driveshaft from the diff & remove, clear the exhaust away if necessary, support the transmission, remove the mount, remove the clutch linkage or hydraulics, undo the bell housing bolts. On some cars, the shifter is bolted to the body and there is a linkage to the transmission and that can be a minor pain - I recall my E30s were made of broken bits, so the remote shifter was a substantial unexpected cost - like $150 IIRC. Speaking of, the E30 also had some tough but not impossible to access bolts - knowing that in advance and having a 2' ratchet extension on hand was gold. :)

Don't forget to mark the driveshaft's orientation to preserve balance. It's helpful if you can get good understanding of the bottom of the transmission and make a cradle of some type for your jack. I'm assuming you don't have a transmission jack, because who does? Well, I do... you're welcome to borrow it if you want but it's almost a liability... I made the mistake of getting the heavy duty one figuring "worst case scenario," but it's massive and a PITA to negotiate. I rarely use it, and keep thinking about dumping it. It's awesome for holding up a motor during motor mount replacement though. Anywho, know with a fair degree of certainty how you'll support the transmission. Remember you need to be able to roll it back 6-12" so you want it to be solid. Also be sure you get the clutch disc centering tool in advance - some but not all clutch kits come with it. Said E30 did not. Know how you'll bleed the clutch if it's hydraulic - some are easier than others. If it's a CCS/HTOB ("concentric clutch slave" or "hydraulic throw out bearing") sometimes there are caveats. The HTOB on the 9-3 is upside down, it almost has to be pressure bled. So, have a pressure bleeder if you need one. You may not need to open the hydraulics, but my STRONG advice is use the money you're not spending on labor to replace the slave. Don't go in there twice. If you need to drop the exhaust, get any gaskets you will need in advance. Probably try and have a helper - I never have, but I think it would have saved some cussing along the way. :D You will probably lose some gearbox oil in the process, so be prepared to refill; be sure to loosen the drain & refill plugs while it's on the ground. :)

Oh, and mind the wiring. There's surely some reverse lights & neutral safety switch crap on there.

October 5th, 2017, 12:48 PM
Nail on head.

I haven't payed for clutch work ever.

October 5th, 2017, 03:49 PM
I lowered my Miata's transmission onto my cousin's chest*

*Not recommended with transmissions weighing considerably more than 80 lbs.

October 5th, 2017, 06:13 PM
That's how I got the first E30's out. It was fine.

October 6th, 2017, 12:05 AM
We are definitely talking Nissan 350Z here. Probably not the heaviest trans but not the lightest either. A friend of mine bench pressed his but he's the kind of guy who has more fun working on his cars than driving them. :) He also does a lot of rock climbing...

The '07 does have a CSC, unfortunately, and it's plastic. I'll have to read up on them again; the impression I remember is they had a high failure rate when the cars were newer. My car has ~70k miles and has been doing fine, so my thought was "if it ain't broke, it's probably not one of the bad ones" but 70k miles is getting into the range where it might be worth replacing it "while I'm in there." I just don't know if it was originally a bad run of parts causing problems, or a bad design with a superseded part that's sold now, or what. I never did find anything conclusive on that. There's an awesome metal aftermarket CSC (http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSpeed-HD-Concentric-Replacement-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-CSC-zsp2006.htm) available but of course not legal in Street Touring. Idunno, if there's a way to do this without opening the hydraulic lines I'd probably just leave it be.

Bell housing bolts *should* be fairly straightforward from what I remember. I'll look at some writeups and the FSM to be sure. But generally this car is pretty easy to work on. I just hope the long tube headers don't end up getting in the way. I don't think they will. Those would be a pain to remove. The cats and Y-pipe will come out in 5 minutes. All hail quality aftermarket parts! They do exist.

October 6th, 2017, 06:39 AM
What's the logic for the illegality of that in Street Touring? Cost? I'm always annoyed when stuff like that happens, when a reliability issue can be cured but it's forbidden because of costs. Is there any actual performance gain?

October 6th, 2017, 11:17 AM
I don't think there could be any performance gain. It's likely heavier, too. It's just that there's a catch-all phrase in the rules which says "If it doesn't say you can, then you can't." It makes sense why that's there, but it does suck in scenarios like this where you're looking strictly at a reliability mod. Once in a great while a special rule will be written for a specific car - for example early Miatas are allowed to use a special sway bar bracket piece that would normally not be legal, because without it they rip the sway bar mounts out of the car.

October 6th, 2017, 11:27 AM
Sounds like the SE36 power steering fluid reservoir. My understanding is it's not explicitly allowed by the rules, but it's a reliability mod that also ensures PS fluid doesn't leak all over your front tire and track so the inspectors just look the other way. Obviously when building a car you can't bank on that but it's probably the most prudent interpretation of the rule book by scrutineering.

October 6th, 2017, 10:30 PM
Calling someone out on something like that is what we call a "weenie protest." That said, some things can become a gray area. I tend to take it on a case by case basis. I'll run a stock CSC since they don't all seem to fail fast anymore, but I'll darn well use a load distributing bracket that's not 'technically' legal if it means I don't have to throw my rare chassis away when it inevitably rips out the mount.

As for the trans removal, I suppose I could take a page from these guys (https://perrybphoto.smugmug.com/AUTOXPIX/2017-SCCA-Solo-Nationals/2017-SCCA-Solo-Nationals-Misc-Paddock-Shots/n-QNLjvL/i-ZNdgrbt/A)... :lol:

Or not.

October 9th, 2017, 05:59 AM
long extensions and a swivels make bellhousing bolts a lot easier to get to, especially if you can loosen the motor mounts and pull down on the trans to give you a better angle. A mechanic friend once lent me his 3' extension with a 3/8" swivel built into the end but was 1/2" drive to use a bigger ratchet, that thing made quick work of the top bolts. I've never used a tranny jack, just a floor jack with a board on it for some added stability.

MR2 Fan
October 11th, 2017, 04:50 PM
Bryan, is this your fault?


October 11th, 2017, 09:50 PM
That would have been both fun and nerve-wracking to do. The good part is Silverstone is a pretty safe track with decent runoff.

MR2 Fan
October 12th, 2017, 02:53 PM
Agreed, I would at least want a camera inside and a monitor

October 12th, 2017, 04:30 PM
Fuck that, do it rc style

October 23rd, 2017, 10:06 AM
I don't really want to sell this car, even though it'd be financially wise. It's just so fun, makes a good noise, feels very connected, is a great color, and it's hard to go this fast this cheap in a modern-ish car with creature comforts and reliability. What to do.


Results are up and I even took top PAX with this car (unofficially since I ran not for points), on the tough as balls STU index... until I beat my own time by a tenth in a friend's Evo (same class). :lol: For those who don't know PAX, it's a multiplier so you can compare theoretical performance across different classes. I never get top PAX at these events - too many great drivers in stupid fast cars on slicks on courses that favor big power. This past Saturday's course didn't place such an emphasis on power.

The clutch is feeling a little better than before, it seems like. Wonder if it was glazed or something. It's still not amazing but feels less mushy than it has recently.

October 23rd, 2017, 11:04 AM
Maybe you just need a fluid change and cooler temps are helping?

October 23rd, 2017, 11:05 AM
I flushed the clutch fluid earlier this year with ATE SuperBlue.

October 23rd, 2017, 11:09 AM


I had a Saab a long time ago with a weak master cylinder that was mushy in the heat and ok in the cold.

October 23rd, 2017, 01:47 PM
They can pry my ATE out of my cold dead hands!

Would love for it to simply be a lazy MC. I'm not sensing a temperature pattern or any pattern as of yet - and surely once the car is warmed up the outside temp wouldn't matter too much?

October 23rd, 2017, 02:34 PM
Honestly, I would assume that to be true, but there was no denying my morning mushy pedal turned into an afternoon nearly unusable clutch every day for weeks. One day while leaving Rite Aid I had to roll several stops and double clutch it like I should and that prompted me to replace the MC.

FWIW, I would definitely blame mushy pedal on hydraulics. Could be either end, but it's probably hydraulics. A bad disc or pressure will be slipping, chatter or other engagement issue; but shouldn't be a mushy pedal... unless you have a broken pressure plate, but I would characterize that more as a lack of feedback or inconsistent pedal effort rather than "mush." Mush is probably gonna be wrecked fluid (probably ruled out) or fluid moving past seals. You might *try* another bleed, just to see what comes out (black fluid = wrecked seals) or if there is any improvement. Even a tiny amount of air can cause mush.

October 23rd, 2017, 10:42 PM
The pedal feel hasn't changed since I've had the car. The clutch bite point has become less sharp and has moved up a bit. And fast shifts can lead to slippage if not done correctly (T smoked the clutch several times this year). It's like it's too easy to be smooth engaging a gear around town, you know? There's no positive engagement feel anymore. I researched whether there was a CDV on these cars, apparently there's an orifice somewhere in the lines that's a little small to restrict how fast fluid can move, but my 2003 hasn't had this weak-feeling clutch problem (it got a new clutch in 2014). So all this made me think worn disc or weakened PP. Hydraulics hasn't been on my mind much - the 2007-8 cars are known to fail the plastic CSC but when that happens it's sudden and you need a tow. I've been nursing this weak-feeling clutch for months. :random:

In simple terms: the 2003 will chirp tires engaging 2nd gear if you try -- the 2007 will peg the rev limiter and not accelerate.

October 24th, 2017, 08:44 AM
Ooooooohhhhhh... so definitely slipping. Got it! Probably is a mangled PP or maybe a broken spring?

October 24th, 2017, 11:06 AM
I'm tending towards thinking that, yeah. AFAIK it's original clutch hardware in the car (75k miles now, plenty of which is highway but also lots of autox, and clutch wear there is highly driver dependent... I know I cringed a lot when T was slipping the heck out of it - not doing anything untoward but also not adapting to the special needs of this clutch). They're not known to be a weak point but anything is possible. I can still launch the car fine, get wheelspin off the line and all that, which suggests a weakened clamping force or rate is not so weak as to affect that but weak enough where improved traction at 35mph engaging 2nd gear is enough to notice the effects. But also even letting the clutch out normal/slower around town I'm always smooth like an automatic because of this -- even when I don't match revs particularly well. And that to me suggests a disc near end of life.

Looking like I'll still end up separating the trans, which means I might as well order a clutch kit anyway.

October 24th, 2017, 11:27 AM
I had a similar situation with the Alfa 164 - it worked fine, but the pedal was always mushy, had slightly unpredictable engagement, and would slip horribly if dropped but never once engaged. One damned hot day in July it totally failed leaving me stranded with three girls in the car two miles from the movie theater. BALLS! I had the work done at a shop and they found all the springs on the disc were broken. They thought one or two had failed a long time ago and the rest finally gave up the ghost. Sounds similar to what you're experiencing... I've never seen broken springs since then so it's my only experience.

I would replace everything in there so you get another 75k out of it. Might be worth inquiring whether the RMS is prone to failure - some cars you just always gotta replace them, others virtually never need replacing. Some cars only leak after they've been replaced. :lol:

November 6th, 2017, 11:53 AM
Thinking it's about time to tackle the inner tie rod replacement.

OEM is expensive. What's the skinny on aftermarket tie rods these days? My choices look to be mainly Moog, AC Delco, Proforged, Beck/Arneley, and a couple others I've never heard of (Mevotech, Quick Steer, MAS) . Much of a muchness?

November 6th, 2017, 12:05 PM
It's a crapshoot IME. Stand-by brands that have always been good like Moog now sell repackaged, lesser stuff so you don't entirely know. I would probably ask people who have used the specific parts for reaction.

Generally speaking, I aim for Moog, ACD, and Raybestos Pro for things I care about and other brands for things I don't. Mevotech has been a good cheap brand for me, for whatever that's worth. I am guessing there are off-brands that specialize in Japanese cars similar to off-brands that specialize in Euro, too - but I have no idea what they might be. :)

November 6th, 2017, 12:17 PM
Guess I won't stress too much over it. :) Some quick reading suggests Moog's Problem Solver line is consistently good quality. At $26 shipped it's worth a shot.

My usual trick of finding the supplying manufacturer for the OEM part and buying that, didn't work for this application.

November 6th, 2017, 02:47 PM
That seems fair. Moog has never done me wrong - the only negative thing I can say about it is that sometimes I've paid extra for Moog when the "part store brand" turns out to be the same thing. Then I'm just disappointed. :)

November 6th, 2017, 02:48 PM

Can never go wrong with Moog.

November 6th, 2017, 03:21 PM

I'd buy that for $26. :D

November 6th, 2017, 04:03 PM
Did you guys watch that documentary on Netflix?


Skipped over ball joints entirely, but it was still fantastic.

November 6th, 2017, 04:21 PM
One of the simulated cases during one of my practical weeks in school was negotiating the settlement of a case where a fire destroyed a Moog. You just gave me some horrific flashbacks.

November 7th, 2017, 11:31 PM
Wait what?



November 8th, 2017, 03:09 AM

November 8th, 2017, 04:28 AM
WHAT THE HELL CUDA?!?!?! :D :up: #swoon

November 8th, 2017, 05:30 AM
Heh, hard to believe that this piece is OEM stock -- but it looks like it from what I've found.


I don't care how much you paid for it, when you're done detailing this rig it's gonna make you some serious coin (unless this becomes your Forever Car).

November 8th, 2017, 07:31 AM
Also it looks like the paint code 202 didn't change over the years -- but it looks a touch blue in your pic (even when reflecting the Tree-Fiddy :D ) which made me wonder if they offered a dark Montego Blue Mica Clearcoat like Mazda did.

Had to look it up aaaand nope. :lol:

November 8th, 2017, 08:08 AM
Fortune favors the bold.

November 8th, 2017, 09:53 AM
NA supra????

November 8th, 2017, 09:55 AM
NA supra????
Adorbs. :lol:

November 8th, 2017, 11:45 AM
Yeah, that little metal piece poking up next to the valve cover surprised me too.

I think it's Baltic Blue, although it looks a little more green than that to me (especially when next to the highlighter-blue Z). But not green enough to be the other greens they offered. I think a detail will reveal a truer color. The need is dire. :lol:

Might have to have a get-together with my friend's gf's Montego Blue FD to see how the color really compares.

It threw a CEL on the drive home of course. OBD1. Gotta find my old SST for Toyota code checking. It's probably in the trunk of the MR2 at my parents' house.

Nobody has yet asked me if I want to sell it, but I did have dreams about that last night. :lol:

November 8th, 2017, 11:49 AM
I think the real question is whether you're gonna sell an MR2! :D

November 8th, 2017, 11:51 AM
Balls, my bad -- I thought it was black. Baltic Blue, fantastic. Please tell me it's yours and you're not doing a job for a rich friend! :D

You're gonna get PLENTY of attention when you're done detailing it. :lol: :up:

November 8th, 2017, 02:33 PM
Adorbs. :lol:

Blow me, I was looking on my cell phone screen.

November 8th, 2017, 02:37 PM
Yeah, it said TWO WAY TWA ?N TURBO on his phone. No deciphering that shit.

November 8th, 2017, 04:42 PM
You guys. :lol:

Maybe it is Montego Blue. I poked around a bit today and saw a several areas of overspray so it may be a full repaint. It sure has a lot of green in it and very little blue in it to be called Blue by the factory, but what do I know.

A neighbor down the street just bought a new Civic Type R, evidently. We can have wing wars! :lol:

November 8th, 2017, 04:45 PM
I think the real question is whether you're gonna sell an MR2! :D

F#^% no! Even if it's slower, it's too right for me. You ever have a car that you sit in and it just feels like home, like it was made for you? That's the MK2 MR2 for me. And a rare and very well kept example with the perfect potpourri of options (IMHO) doesn't come along very often. I think I'll only sell this car if I have to.

November 8th, 2017, 06:06 PM
So when are we gonna see the full set of "Before" pics and hear the tale of the acquisition?

Or are you just enjoying all the guessing & vaguebooking? :D

November 8th, 2017, 06:32 PM
You mean like the Southwind? Sure, but I don't think the MR-2 has a shower and a microwave. If it did, I'd totally get it. :P

November 8th, 2017, 10:11 PM
ooooooohhhh, toys!

November 8th, 2017, 11:29 PM
Ok I've had my fun. :D As much as I wish I'd stumbled on a dusty barn find TT Supra, this is my friend's car that I mentioned briefly a few weeks ago. She has had so many projects going on and the Supra has sat with a boost problem for too long. I offered to work on it and clean it up a bit. I figure fixing a Supra is likely the closest experience I'll have to owning one, so win-win. :cool:

First step today was to clean the engine bay. Working on a dirty engine is not my style. :p

Next will be some simple checks like ignition stuff. And checking the CEL of course.

Meanwhile I'll study the complex twin turbo system to understand its operation and start to narrow down the problem. There's a chance it could be something simple like a VSV.

Oh and there's a very audible electronic noise that matches engine RPM. Some kind of electrical interference or ground loop or something else I don't quite understand. Would love to eliminate that too. I'm hesitant to take apart any interior panels given the age of the car.

Oh oh, the boost gauge makes noise under boost. It was just installed for diagnostic purposes. There's a small kink in the line where it runs from the door jamb into the a-pillar pod. Not sure if related. The sound comes from the gauge itself. Cheap gauge or something else amiss?

With stock intake and exhaust, all you can hear when you drive this thing is the electronic buzzing and the rattly/fluttery boost gauge. What a strange experience.

Side note, how many other street cars have traction control and a throttle cable?

Sure, but I don't think the MR-2 has a shower and a microwave. If it did, I'd totally get it. :P
This sounds like the makings of a TopGear/GrandTour episode in some far off country...

November 9th, 2017, 12:44 AM
Side note, how many other street cars have traction control and a throttle cable?

IIRC, the Crown Victoria did.

November 9th, 2017, 06:32 AM
Ok I've had my fun. :D As much as I wish I'd stumbled on a dusty barn find TT Supra, this is my friend's car that I mentioned briefly a few weeks ago. She has had so many projects going on and the Supra has sat with a boost problem for too long. I offered to work on it and clean it up a bit. I figure fixing a Supra is likely the closest experience I'll have to owning one, so win-win. :cool:
Aww damn, I was hoping you were gonna take a Supra TT to Nationals and show people what time it (still) is! :lol: </3

*So* looking forward to the pics of everything!

November 9th, 2017, 06:59 AM
Side note, how many other street cars have traction control and a throttle cable?

My E36 did.

November 9th, 2017, 07:10 AM
IIRC, the Crown Victoria did.
The SN95 M00stangs do too, FWIW.

November 9th, 2017, 07:52 AM
Early traction control was just brakes, so any car with ABS could potentially have TCS. There was a company in... somewhere that made a module to plug into Bosch and ATE ABS systems to retrofit TCS. It was kinda cool.

Electronic throttle actuators were the game changer that made actual stability control possible. TCS is really limited to wheel spin, ESP et al is what helps with car spin. ;)

November 9th, 2017, 08:40 AM
The SN95 M00stangs do too, FWIW.

I was unaware they had TCS, as distinct from ABS.

That stretchy throttle cable is real, for sure.

November 9th, 2017, 09:20 AM
Early traction control was just brakes, so any car with ABS could potentially have TCS. There was a company in... somewhere that made a module to plug into Bosch and ATE ABS systems to retrofit TCS. It was kinda cool.

Electronic throttle actuators were the game changer that made actual stability control possible. TCS is really limited to wheel spin, ESP et al is what helps with car spin. ;)

The E36es had a second TB that the computer controlled.

November 9th, 2017, 09:25 AM
Neat. So at first thought I think using brakes for TC is a better idea than killing the damn engine for two seconds when a hint of wheelspin is detected. Looking at you, 350Z.

Aww damn, I was hoping you were gonna take a Supra TT to Nationals and show people what time it (still) is! :lol: </3

*So* looking forward to the pics of everything!

Throw on some meaty Hoosiers and go run down some Corvettes in SSR? ;) That would be an entertaining exercise in futility!

I didn't know you were such a MKIV fan, Carlo. :up:

November 9th, 2017, 10:02 AM
I was unaware they had TCS, as distinct from ABS.
From what I'm reading, SN95/New Edge Mustangs "Traction Control" it pulls timing from the motor and pulses the rear brakes. #shrug

I didn't know you were such a MKIV fan, Carlo. :up:
Yup, longtime fan -- my Pops almost bought one back in '94 when they first came Stateside. I lobbied hard... but he flaked out and bought a Subaru SVX instead. :smh: #badtaste

Everyone else here just thinks of them as Japanese Camaros. :lol:

November 9th, 2017, 02:58 PM
My Corvette has brake and throttle actuated TCS ...

November 9th, 2017, 03:06 PM
Throw on some meaty Hoosiers and go run down some Corvettes in SSR? ;)

Man, I read that as "you could run down some Corvettes in an SSR" and WTFed.

November 9th, 2017, 03:37 PM
Autox classing reference. Short version: they took our Hoosiers away from Stock class and now it's called Street class. Corvettes and 911s and Elises and stuff used to run in Super Stock. Now it's Super Street R (SSR) with the R thrown in for Race tire, I guess, even though they're still required to be DOT-legal tires. And as part of the rules shift, basically you can throw Hoosiers on anything you want now and it's SSR legal (as long as the car is not too fast to be classified in Street to begin with). Logical right?


Today's Supra findings:

1) there's a big split hidden in a groove in the inlet hose from air filter to turbo piping. Unfiltered air is no bueno. No more driving/testing until the new part arrives. Typically Toyota, a large diameter rubber hose about a foot long is over $100.

2) ECU codes are 42 (speed sensor signal) and 71 (EGR). 42 is apparently common on higher mileage Supras and often is a result of bad cold solder joints inside the electronic odometer which intercepts speed sensor signal from the tranny. Strange stuff. It typically doesn't affect driveability in MT cars, but eventually the odo stops working. Strange that cold solder problems seem to be an issue in the MKIV Supra (this isn't the only trouble spot). This isn't something Toyota is known for to my knowledge.

I have yet to research the EGR issue.

3) I see now that TC is at least partially throttle controlled. I noticed what I'm going to call a pre throttle body with its own TPS on it and a motor as well.

4) When I was cleaning the engine I noticed a concentration of oily gunk on and around the Air Bypass Valve. Hoping it's tiny seepage over time and there won't be much oil in the piping. Oil level is full at the moment, will keep an eye out.

November 9th, 2017, 03:47 PM
Be happy that hose is still available - plenty of cars from the '90s wouldn't be so lucky! It's very interesting that the speedometer does signal conversion - that was pretty commonplace in the '80s and maybe the early '90s as it made sense electronically... weird to find it on a later car. Especially an expensive later car! Maybe some sort of compromise for a low-volume car? I would not be at all surprised to find most of the intake coated with oil. On any turbo car of that age with any real mileage it's pretty much expected. Nothing to worry about... except that it does slowly degrade rubber and plastic. :)

November 11th, 2017, 01:13 AM
Supposedly the intake hose is available. :) Fingers are crossed.

A coating of oil on an older car I could see. But if I were to, say, clean out an IC pipe and find a bunch of fresh oil in there later, that'd be bad.

Speaking of oil, things look a little sludgy in here to me:


Turbocharged Toyota Heaven:


November 11th, 2017, 01:18 AM
I'm feeling dumb. I've poked around the software, read the FAQ, and still can't figure out how to get uploaded/attached images to display normal size within the post.

November 11th, 2017, 04:33 AM
Double-tap the image in your post window. A popup menu will come up where you can select "Large" or "Full Size".

November 11th, 2017, 09:10 AM
Where? When I upload an image it inserts using the attach code [as below without the misspelling]. There's nothing to double click on in the Manage Attachments field below, either.



November 11th, 2017, 09:30 AM
A coating of oil on an older car I could see. But if I were to, say, clean out an IC pipe and find a bunch of fresh oil in there later, that'd be bad.

Meh... Maybe? Less than desirable sure, but not inherently a problem. Old turbos and 20th century PCV systems make for adventure!

I would not sweat that oil cap for even a second. It's two decades old. Totally normal.

November 11th, 2017, 10:02 AM
That's looking down inside the valve cover, presumably at a cam cap bolt. That's more sludge than I've ever seen personally, by a margin.

November 13th, 2017, 09:41 AM
Oooooooh. Well, still nothing I'd be all that concerned about - carbon deposits on stationary parts is not uncommon. Might be worth pulling the valve cover for an inspection, but OTOH what are you going to do? If there is wear on the cams or tappets or whatever are you going to pre-emptively replace them, or just wait until there's a failure? If it was a new car there'd be reason for concern, but on a 20 year old car with a likely totally unknown maintenance history there's gonna be some imperfections. ;)

November 13th, 2017, 10:05 AM
After you've attached & uploaded an Image from your Computer, you should see the thumbnail pop up in your post.

Then double-click it, an Image Settings control panel should pop up:


Select "Full Size".


Or are you trying to do this to linked images? 'Cause that won't work.

November 13th, 2017, 10:10 AM
I've just been uploading the image, previewing the page, copying the URL of the image and putting it in its own set of tags then deleting the original thumbnail tag.


November 13th, 2017, 10:16 AM
That... sounds like work.

November 13th, 2017, 11:30 AM
Yeah, probably.

At least I'm not ruining Christmas.

November 13th, 2017, 06:48 PM

Ok now I see the trick. I had to switch the reply box to WYSIWYG mode for the picture to come up as a thumbnail in the first place. Got it!

[That's the neighborhood Civic Type R doing a fly-by ;)]

November 13th, 2017, 07:01 PM
Back to some autox content. Yesterday I ran with the local SCCA chapter at the small fairgrounds lot 12 minutes from home. I haven't done this in years. I get spoiled with big grippy lots a couple hours away, with plenty of competition, and I haven't done the local more casual thing in too long. So anyway this local lot is pretty slippery smooth asphalt with need for a lot of slow corners, and my car's set up for grippy concrete and faster stuff. I made a couple pre-emptive minor adjustments yesterday to try to anticipate the right setup, and I either nailed it or these Nexen tires like old asphalt more than I knew.

It may not look like it in the video but the car felt really hooked up. I could rotate on the throttle at will, yet still get forward acceleration. Win-win.

This event was the season finale and with this group that's always a unique format where you enter the course and do a number of consecutive laps before exiting the course and stopping the timer. They call it Enduro. It's something that is (to my knowledge) unique to the central valley here, and I really like it. In past years when I used to do it it was 5 laps per run. Due to increased turnout yesterday it was shortened to 3 laps per run. It was a cold morning so my first of two cracks at the course was entertaining as I worked to put heat into the tires on the low grip surface.


My second run was about 2.5 seconds faster than my first run, and it was top time of day by 8.5 seconds. :eek: I don't think I've ever had a margin quite like that even when I used to run with this club regularly. Just reinforces in my mind how good the 350Z is at everything. As we generally concluded in the Unofficial But Scientific STU Test in Nebraska last September, the 350Z in STU is the jack of all trades.

The last time I did an Enduro was 2010 in the S2000, which kept me pretty busy!

November 13th, 2017, 07:26 PM
Here's a very cool story from yesterday, too: A nice 1st-gen Celica was there, lowered with flares and wide wheels and a cage and such. It was making nice turbo noises. The owner was new to autocross last weekend. After the event I found him and started talking to him. Within 5 minutes of our conversation I find out his other car is my old red MR2! The one that was Supercharged in 2003. The one that I sold in 2006. The one that I randomly ran across a few years later at an autocross in Santa Clara, owned by someone other than the guy I had sold it to. That car has really gotten around. And yet keeps finding its way to autocross. How cool is that?

When he said he had an '87 MR2 Supercharged I started to ask questions... yes, it was red. Yes, it had a Grant steering wheel... by this time he gets his phone out and looks for a pic. It's a small photo of the back of the car on an alignment rack but I recognized the license plate after all these years. 3WYA092. Man, so many memories with that car.

I expect to see it at an event next year. :up:



November 13th, 2017, 09:12 PM
<3 <3 <3

November 14th, 2017, 01:40 PM

MR2 Fan
November 14th, 2017, 10:56 PM
awesome...looks in great shape too!

November 15th, 2017, 08:40 AM
Those are my pics from years ago. I don't expect it looks quite like that anymore. :)

MR2 Fan
November 15th, 2017, 09:36 AM
Those are my pics from years ago. I don't expect it looks quite like that anymore. :)

ah gotcha

November 15th, 2017, 06:25 PM
My garage is experiencing a high concentration of turbochargers per square foot right now. :cool:


Why does the garage suddenly seem more spacious? ;)

For a couple reasons, I thought it was time to swap the blue Z out for the MR2 Turbo (I store it in my parents' garage). So now this MR2 is my DD, possibly for the first time.

Noticing the Supra needed a new turbo inlet hose motivated me to put in the replacement turbo inlet hose for the MR2 that I bought probably a year ago or more... :smh:

I undid 10, count 'em, 10 hose clamps of various types in order to replace this 90 degree elbow that's plainly visible when peering into the engine bay. :lol: Could they have made this any more complex if they tried? Everything is connected to everything else in some way.


November 15th, 2017, 06:30 PM
Supra wheel cleaning didn't go quite as I'd hoped. It appears there's some corrosion in places, and perhaps some paint worn away. One of these pics is of the leading edge of a spoke, and I noticed a similar dark spotted area at the leading edge of every other spoke...

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2739&stc=1 http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2740&stc=1

November 15th, 2017, 08:56 PM
Sadly, in my experience, the only way you can fix that is by refinishing the wheels.

November 16th, 2017, 04:29 AM
So now this MR2 is my DD, possibly for the first time.
This... makes me nervous. :lol:

At least the H00pra wheels are painted silver and not the polished rims.


November 16th, 2017, 09:04 AM
Cool vid, might be something fun to tackle some weekend on another car. Just not on a friend's car when I've never done it before!

November 16th, 2017, 09:13 AM
Good point! :lol: :up:

November 16th, 2017, 12:15 PM
Sounds like the perfect time to me!!! :finger:

November 16th, 2017, 10:58 PM
Supra findings:

The intake hose came today and I put it in. Much easier than the MR2 Turbo, although it took more hulk wrestling, being more rigid than the MR2 hose.

This didn't fix the problem. :) I wasn't really expecting it to.

During my test drive late tonight with no one around, for the first time I got a decent sense of what the car is actually doing under boost. Report I got from the owner was the 2nd turbo wasn't coming on properly or reliably. So I wasn't expecting to experience breakup during high boost -- the type of sudden breakup that makes me think ignition. The hastily-installed mechanical boost gauge for diagnostic purposes has no lights for night driving, and my phone won't record video with the flashlight on, so meh. But the gauge A) reads as high as 13-14psi when OEM spec should be 11.6, and B) flutters. Low amplitude (like 0.5psi), high frequency flutter. There is a slight kink in the line -- would this produce an erroneous pressure reading during boost, or a flutter during boost? Vacuum seems in spec.

Now here's the other interesting thing. If I keep the car to half throttle it goes faster and doesn't break up near as much if at all, compared to flooring it. Same RPM range. So then I thought maybe the TC pre-throttle-body might be doing something funky at WOT. I tried to turn off TC but couldn't figure it out. :lol: The button doesn't have an up/down position and I don't see a light anywhere, either. Gonna have to RTFM on that one.

It's OBD1. Shouldn't the car at least report a general misfire if it's really an ignition breakup problem? I don't think OBD1 can narrow down the cylinder. Also, the fact the breakup was throttle position based and not RPM/boost based, seems weird. The boost gauge reads the same (more or less) when I'm full throttle or half throttle, but the car breaks up / hesitates at >50% throttle.

I'll throw the two VSVs in that I have here, and do some more research as I have time.

November 17th, 2017, 06:49 PM

Targa top rattle repair attempt today. Simply removing the top is quite a bit more involved than MR2 T-tops. On those you just undo a latch and pull the top out. Easy peasy. The Supra has a locking allen head, plus four allen bolts. The car came with a ratcheting allen tool from Toyota when new (this car still has it). Significantly more awkward.

Removing the headliner from the targa roof was a big pain. The normal way to do it is to destroy the weatherstripping seal and replace it. Yeah, no. I got it done but it took a while. Anyway, that was to get to the rear latch bolts inside which very commonly are loose and cause the rattle. I was all set with loctite and everything. But they're fine!

The other reason to get inside was, the allen head for the lock mechanism is pretty well rounded out. Not even a torx worked. I randomy found something the right size and fashioned an extension and wrench onto it to get the lock undone. McGyver moment there.

The problem is, I can't see any way to replace this 'bolt' without replacing the entire latch assembly. Which I just looked up. It's $80. It's such a simple latch!

So I'm kindof not sure where to go next. I'll probably drive around with the top on but headliner out next time I test the car, and maybe that'll help me narrow down the rattle.

Check it broskis:

November 17th, 2017, 08:44 PM
Slot it.

November 18th, 2017, 01:27 AM
Glad cool cars are still flocking around you ;-) Great to hear about the AW11, too. Did you have a pic of that car exiting the Corkscrew, leading a light blue Viper?

'Breakup' under high boost could be the fuel pump not keeping up (either the pump itself or the fuel filter being blocked) ? Or, the ignition wires all being cooked and not giving a strong spark? I've heard that boost can 'wash out' a weak spark - e.g. on FD:UK forum "Mapping did not go to plan, anything over 0.6 bar of boost caused the spark plugs to be washed out and create a missfire (with a lot of flame) ... Over the summer I replaced the coils, leads and plugs plus wired a direct feed to the coils just to be sure. Thankfully this paid off "

The FD has a similar sequential twin turbo system, which is famously failure-prone.
Problem 1 is vacuum leaks - either pipes, or the plastic bits that join them, or the plastic pressure accumulator chamber. People often replace rubber pipes with silicone. Leaks can cause intermittent 2nd turbo operation, or a bad transition, or it works when you first hit 2nd turbo, but when you lift and re-apply throttle it doesn't come back in.
Once you fix all the leaks, you then have problems with your solenoids - the electric motor-y things that move flaps and so on. Often they fail such that they stop working when hot.
After that, you're back to cracks in the large cast-iron housing that holds the two turbos, or the turbos themselves can fail.

I'm not sure how similar the Supra is.

November 19th, 2017, 03:04 PM
I finded something of interest in the Supra. Two vacuum lines were switched at the Intake Air Control Valve VSV, which provides a key role in secondary turbo operation.

In switching them back I broke a nipple off the old VSV. :| It had been epoxied back together previously, and tenuously. A small piece must have been missing at the prior break already because the nipple was askew a bit. I want to epoxy it back together again and also find a more permanent replacement. The Toyota part is $75 (wow), Dorman has one that looks like it is the same even down to the plug shape. Dorman doesn't list any parts for Supras on their web site, but a VSV is a pretty simple thing...

What's a good glue/epoxy for little plastic pieces?

I'm still thinking there could be a weak spark under boost given the behavior of the car, but I'll go down this cheaper vacuum line road first.

I have an idea/strategy for the rounded out allen head in the targa latch mechanism too. We'll see if I can pull it off...

Glad cool cars are still flocking around you ;-) Great to hear about the AW11, too. Did you have a pic of that car exiting the Corkscrew, leading a light blue Viper?
Must be another car you're thinking of. I never took any of my own cars on track at Laguna. Too many walls. :)

Good thought on the fuel filter, too! I looked it up and it's not as easy to change as the 300ZX filters. The main issue with the Supra is the flare nut which can strip. Then you have to buy a $200 fuel line too.

The MKIV Supra TT is a coil-on-plug ignition. From my reading, it's usually the wiring at the coil packs or poorly sealed plugs that cause issues. The tricky bit is it's usually not possible to test for a bad coil when the car is at rest, so you just replace them with known good ones and see if that fixes the problem.

But yeah, weak spark under boost seems plausible. If the VSV repair and properly routed lines doesn't solve anything, I'll check the plugs and their gap. I'm told they were replaced recently.

November 23rd, 2017, 04:31 PM
Slow but steady progress over the past few days.

The breakup under boost seems to have been solved. I ordered one new coil and put it in #6, and it was better but still did it, then I moved it to #5, and there's no breakup at all. Coincidence? Got lucky? Actual problem solved? Who knows!

Boost is still not boostitating correctly, and I'm in the process of narrowing that down. What happens is inconsistent so my thought at the moment is leaning towards a sticky actuator, or maybe even a sticky VSV. I've bypassed two VSVs to put the car into what they call "True Twin" mode, where both turbos spool up simultaneously instead of one handing off to the other via the complex system. On my next test drive this may or may not be telling as to where the problem lies.

The boost gauge also reads 27in/hg of vacuum at idle which is really high. I don't think it can be trusted for anything other than if something changes. Absolute values are no good. It was a $10 gauge, guess you can't expect much.

How about this PCV hose? It appears semi-collapsed at a bend. When I rev the engine a bit, it expands just slightly. This appears to be a very thin walled hose, likely not stock. In my searching I haven't figured out yet if this is a problem or not.


Also, I fixed the allen head for the targa latch. I used SteelStick by JB Weld. It's an epoxy putty, almost like clay. Because it's less like a liquid I was able to put it in the allen head, stick in a next size smaller allen key for a second to give it a 6-sided shape that it more or less kept, and then after it cured, file file file to carefully enlarge the six sides to fit the proper size allen key. It was a bit tedious but I did a half hour each day and it works.


Driving around with the top off on a 75F autumn day is excellent. :up:

November 23rd, 2017, 10:15 PM
Hmm, the True Twin conversion hasn't stopped the boost fluctuations. Which, actually, might not be boost fluctuation at all. Hard to tell when the boost gauge can't be trusted. The needle vibrates only at high boost, all other times it's smooth. Don't know whether to read anything into that or not. It no longer feels like a quick harsh cutout or stumble, the variance in power feels smoother since a couple days ago. Going to have to do some more thinking.

It's actually kind of cool in town this way, as the exhaust flapper is permanently open so you hear more good noises at low revs. :)

November 24th, 2017, 12:50 PM
Hooligan!! :D

November 24th, 2017, 01:19 PM
Still way quieter than anything I own. :p

December 11th, 2017, 10:57 PM

1) No real work or progress on the Supra, other than first stage cleaning of the interior. I did install the new IACV VSV but I'm sure now that isn't the main problem. I need to do some more reading about the system. I did confirm the pressure tank is holding pressure, because when I disconnected a vacuum line even after days of not driving the car, pressure was relieved. I attempted to install my extra Autometer boost/vacuum gauge on the Supra to get a likely more reliable reading, but it turns out Autometer uses a very different boost line attachment method (and size of the line, too) from the generic boost gauge. I don't happen to have a bunch of the right size tubing and a reducer just lying around... so janky boost gauge it is.

2) I just ordered $900 of parts for the MR2. :o I haven't spent this much on it since... hmm, probably since the evaporator broke many moons ago. New moldings for the top of the doors, some EHPS fluid, stainless valve cover bolts (the OEM bolts are kinda stupid and lead to weeping around the valve cover), a new square shift selector bushing, oh and a Berk exhaust. :D It'll probably be quieter than what I have now which is just a straight pipe, but the Berk will flow better because it replaces the restrictive OEM B-pipe. And that better flow will come in handy when I turn up the boost. :cool: I'm in the research stages of that right now, looking up EBCs, FCDs, Toyota family turbo options, and intercoolers. Decent intercooler information for MR2s is really, really hard to come by. No one talks about pressure drop or anything. It was all I could do to find some flow numbers. It appears there are basically two cores that have ever been made for the side mount location: a thicker Greddy copy fin design (sold via no-name eBay, EMS Powered, Berk, KO Racing, PrimeDriven, and many others), or a larger again Spearco bar and plate (copied/modified by Phoenix Power, Apexi, Turbohoses, etc). So few kits are still available to buy new and they're all the Greddy copy design from what I've seen. Supposedly aluminum pipe is better than stainless steel for heat transfer properties, and some of the kits use SS or polished piping (kinda more bling than I'd want anyway). Choosing an IC kit may take some time.

3) I wanted to change the boost gauge in the MR2 to the black face one. However I couldn't remove the push pins holding the A-pillar pod to the A-pillar. Those suckers are in there good. The boost gauge pulls out but not far enough to get to the back of it and disconnect the tube/wiring. I'm scared to remove the A-pillar from the car for fear of breaking 90s plastics or NLA clips. Also, when I learned the Autometer boost line connection utilizes a ferrule and a lock nut, it made me wonder if the ferrule is a one-time use thing or if it can be re-used when changing gauges.

4) I feel like tsg would have some real good knowledge/experience with the DIY kind of stuff here. :(

5) #boostedlife

December 12th, 2017, 06:45 PM
Today was interesting. My parents' Camry decided to throw a CEL for the first time. It's a '95 V6. Not bad after 23 years I guess (purchased in December '94).

So I go over there to check it out, making sure I have my custom bent paperclip code reader with me. :hard: Find the usual Toyota diagnosis box under the hood, jump TE1 and E1, turn ignition to ON. No flashy flashy of the CEL. Try reconnecting the paperclip, still nothing. Different thickness paperclips in different areas of the terminal holes. Still no diagnostic mode to be found. Hmm. Check under the dash. Well there's a Diagnostic port there, too, like on the Supra. Except either TE1 or E1 (I forget which) is labeled under the lid but has no metal inside. Well that won't work. WTF is the deal here? :? I Google. Someone says check the vacuum diagram. I do and it says OBD-II. What! In 1995? With OBD1 diagnostic boxes on the car? Where's the OBD-II connector? Not under the dash! More Googling. Someone with a '96 4cyl had the same problem - no ability to check codes. Turns out, you have to remove the mini glovebox to the left of the steering wheel. The OBD-II port sits behind it. I have never heard of such things.

So I go home to pick up my OBD2 reader and come back. I get a P0402 code - EGR flow too high. Hmm. I poke around some. Find the EGR VSV under the plastic engine cover, figure it's easy enough to check. It fails the resistance test hard. This is likely the/a problem.

As I'm removing it to get the part number, I find another VSV nearby has completely broken off one nipple. This VSV leads to an actuator that connects to a rod that appears to turn a valve or plate inside the intake manifold. Likely some kind of intake volume control device for different RPM or load. With no VSV connection it's stuck in whatever mode is the default. No idea if open or closed but I suspect it's stuck in the "low RPM/load" mode because the Camry is always driven so gently and nobody has noticed anything out of the ordinary.

So two VSVs and some vacuum line is on order. This leads me to a vacuum line rant which I'll perhaps get to at a later date. Suffice to say, 2.7mm ID appears to be the correct size in this case. Which you won't find at your local Autozone.

Now the bad news: the underhood plastics are so brittle the engine harness ends of the plugs both broke when I removed them from the VSVs. The latch mechanism won't hold the plugs tight anymore. Gotta figure out what to do here... maybe an X pattern of zip ties once they go back on the new VSVs. Stupid 90s plastic.

December 13th, 2017, 05:13 AM
Yeah TSG's banter is sorely missed. :(

"Daily-driving a '95 Camry with zero rust" stories make me think SoCal must look like Cuba! :lol: :up:

December 13th, 2017, 09:02 AM
It looks like a place where people drive cars of all varieties. :p Old, new, fancy, simple, pristine, beat up, and everything in between. It was weird when I went to South FL and people there tend to drive one of two things - if they have decent income, they replace their cars often for the latest and greatest. If they're of less means, they drive old beat up cars. There's almost no in-between. I have no idea where all the 5-10 year old cars go!

Edit -sun damage is what you gotta watch out for in CA. Cracked or faded interior parts, clear coat peeling, oxidized paint, crumbling EPDM trim, that kind of stuff.

December 13th, 2017, 12:26 PM
"Daily-driving a '95 Camry with zero rust" stories make me think SoCal must look like Cuba! :lol: :up:
Honestly, when I go to SoCal, it is weird seeing so many 90s cars with clean bodies.

December 13th, 2017, 03:49 PM
There are lots of older, rust-free cars in Colorado, too. I'm wondering how long I can continue to drive 20th century cars without sign-holding beggars at intersections handing me money out of pity.

"Here, man. You need this more than I do."

MR2 Fan
December 22nd, 2017, 12:59 PM
Now the bad news: the underhood plastics are so brittle the engine harness ends of the plugs both broke when I removed them from the VSVs. The latch mechanism won't hold the plugs tight anymore. Gotta figure out what to do here... maybe an X pattern of zip ties once they go back on the new VSVs. Stupid 90s plastic.

Sounds like you're a candidate for a 3D printer!

December 22nd, 2017, 06:19 PM
That'd be lovely.

I ended up using zip ties. Mom-unit reports the car has been just fine ever since I fixeded it.

Wish all cars were that easy!

The Supra is still not giving up its secrets. Won't be much longer and I'll have to start disassembling some major stuff on the turbo side of the engine.

Meanwhile its engine bay harness plugs are fine. Still not brittle. You'd think underhood temps would be higher than that of a Camry. Perhaps Toyota used higher quality plugs on their halo car. But the MR2 plugs are also good. Strange one.

Looks like my sister's Miata's throwout bearing has gone all grindy all of a sudden. Might be working on that before too long here, too.

January 2nd, 2018, 03:53 PM
Supra stuff:

Weird as it seems to me I wonder if there's a small boost leak that opens up, closes, opens up, closes, and that causes the variable power output and lack of overall power. I'd think over time it'd get worse, and/or the offending leak would open up entirely and the car would be super slow. I went in to replace the intercooler hoses today but the silicone kit that came in the car didn't have all the right size/shape hoses. Good thing I hadn't removed the old ones yet. I looked it up and this (https://www.upgr8.com/store/radiator-intake-turbo-silicone-hose-kit/93-02-toyota-supra-jza80-2jz-gte-high-performance-4-ply-red-turbo-intercooler-silicone-hose-kit.html) is exactly what I have. I can't figure out why half of those hoses are there. Two of them, the ones on the drivers side, are fairly direct fitment. There are two additional hoses in the stock system, three if you count the one at the top of the engine bay, and none of the other UPGR8 hoses come anywhere close to matching. It's as if the UPGR8 kit is made for an aftermarket IC with non-stock piping. But nothing says it is.

Another thought is the wastegate. The #1 Turbo WG controls overall boost. I tested the actuator and it seems to be working although I don't know exactly how it should be. The manual says to apply 17.4psi to the actuator and move the rod to make sure the WG opens. I can't reach the rod. I can see it move a little bit right around 17.5-18.0 psi, and a little bit further at 20psi. Probably 1/4" in total. It releases with no bind when I bleed the pressure away (I did buy the Mityvac that supposedly breaks all the time...). So this test is pretty inconclusive to me.

I've eliminated some things in the system as problems, and there doesn't seem to be too many things left that would control overall boost. A lot of the complexity in the system lies in the hand-off between turbos, and that doesn't appear to be where the primary problem is because it runs worst under full boost when both turbos are supplying pressure.

January 21st, 2018, 09:18 PM
Not much progress on the Supra. I did a little cleaning and prep work every day or so for a while and it was finally ready to correct the paint today. I did some test spots this afternoon and then finished up the hood before it got cold and dark. The haze and swirl marks came out very easily with just M205 and a light polishing pad. This suggests soft paint. (It's a respray). However, numerous tiny dots and RIDS remained. RIDS = Random Isolated Deeper Scratches. I went more aggressive. Then more aggressive again, all the way to the toughest combo I have (Griots Fast Correcting Cream with a Griots stiff white foam pad). It helped a little. This seemed kind of strange given how easy the haze and swirls went away. Anyway, I don't want to take tons of time going over it again and again plus take off a bunch of clear coat, so those imperfections will still be there. But the paint clarity will be much improved overall and given the state of the car when I got it, I don't think the owner is too picky about RIDS (or even knows what they are). ;)

I finished the hood and half of the targa roof. More tomorrow if I get to it after errands.


In less awesome news, the MR2 cracked a fog light lens (https://photos.app.goo.gl/dofsV2YK3JeDY1PB3). Seems a tiny stone caused a cascade effect. I swear these lenses are made of crystal! I think this is the 3rd one since I've had the car. The sad thing is they're now discontinued. :( I'm going to try to find a good used one. That may take some time. Meanwhile I've removed them (https://photos.app.goo.gl/YwI6FKwq5hKVQYtR2) so I can "save" my good one from the chance of a similar fate. Once I get a replacement, I'm going to install some kind of protective film before putting them back on.

January 22nd, 2018, 05:00 AM
That's a shame. I remember a documentary about the original VW Scirocco and how parts are getting really hard to find for them. I assume the MR2 has a bigger enthusiast community, hopefully they can come up with something. I assume you already checked to see if it cross references with anything?

January 22nd, 2018, 05:06 AM
No CELs when the boost fluctuates under throttle?

Waiting on pics of the Mostest Imaculate Supra after you're done! :D :up:

January 22nd, 2018, 09:56 AM
It won't be. The paint is too abused and not that good of a respray. But it'll look good. :)

No CELs at all except on the 3hr drive to bring the car home. The codes were EGR System Malfunction and Speed Sensor Signal. They haven't returned in the 10-15 minute test drives I've done here.

Nate, I don't hold a lot of hope for many quality reproduction parts becoming available. The market is not that big. Partially because these cars have been so cheap to buy for so long that a lot of owners don't seem to care about restoration or quality non-mechanical parts. Lots of stancebro stuff on the forums these days. "Yo this bumper is so JDM yo." Nevermind the fact it fits horribly. :lol: Many of the more mature and financially capable owners started moving on to newer things 10-15 years ago. Elises and other toys.

If I was king of the world I would start a company that specializes in quality faithful reproduction parts for Japanese cars. Kind of like a YearOne for Japanese stuff.

Now there are Chinese knock off fog lights for the MR2 Turbo. They're all over eBay. I need to do more research on them but already I don't like the lack of lettering on the glass. I don't know why I'm so nerdy about that part. :lol: Probably wouldn't care as much if my MR2 wasn't so special.

I had a look around at an online Toyota parts catalog and a ton of stuff is discontinued for the MR2 now. Body panels, emblems, braces, weatherstripping, etc. If an MR2 is in an accident these days it's not going to be easy to source parts (likely used). Time to up the insurance value on my car...

January 22nd, 2018, 10:09 AM
I remember those days from trying to find things for my '85 MKII Celica Supra. #salute

January 22nd, 2018, 10:12 AM
It wouldn't help you here, but I'm hoping 3D printing is the answer for some of the interior bits that are unlikely to be mass reproduced. There is some of that in the DMC community but it seems the plastics they use don't hold up well to sunlight.

Sometime this spring I'm going to go to one of the bigger pull-it yards in this part of the state to look for an E46 air box. I'll ping you then and see if you're still missing odds and ends and have a look around.

January 22nd, 2018, 03:43 PM

One of the things that is discontinued is the interior A-pillar trim. It's a yuuuuge piece on the hardtop MK2. From ankle height to behind the head. My boost gauge is stuck in the pod and I really want to replace the gauge but I also really don't want to break my A-pillar trim getting it off. Decisions, decisions.

So good news: I got the last OEM fog light left in the country today. $200+. Bad news: it's the wrong side. :lol: I'll have a spare I guess. Or I can sell it in 20 years and retire off the money (yeah right). I think I might call a Candian dealer and see if they can search their warehouses for a left side fog light...

January 23rd, 2018, 08:00 AM
Could Doug help you? I mean if you're not in a hurry, he could help you track it down JDM style, yo!

January 23rd, 2018, 08:05 AM
Checked the local yard, zero MR2s. :P

I signed up to be alerted if they get one. I'll let you know.

January 23rd, 2018, 10:19 AM
The global search begins. :up:

They're not too hard to find on eBay etc but I'd want a really really nice one. As close to like new as possible. There's one on eBay now that looked tempting but has some damage in the back where the plug clips in. Yeah, I'm really picky with this car. :) Nothing but the best!

January 23rd, 2018, 10:35 AM
Nothing wrong with that. It's how I approach the D, might as well wait a bit longer and do it right than just slapping together a solution with inferior bits.

MR2 Fan
January 23rd, 2018, 11:27 AM
It wouldn't help you here, but I'm hoping 3D printing is the answer for some of the interior bits that are unlikely to be mass reproduced. There is some of that in the DMC community but it seems the plastics they use don't hold up well to sunlight.

Sometime this spring I'm going to go to one of the bigger pull-it yards in this part of the state to look for an E46 air box. I'll ping you then and see if you're still missing odds and ends and have a look around.

Plastics tech for consumer 3D printing is coming a LONG way...some nylon infused parts or CF reinforced parts hold up much better than PLA (the most commonly used plastic in 3D printers now).

January 27th, 2018, 05:18 PM
I visited my sister over the last couple days to help her with the clutch replacement and suspension bushing replacement in her '97 Miata. She works on vintage aircraft for fun, and has quite a collection of tools in her own garage. Neither of us had done a clutch before and we figured our skills and tools would be complimentary enough to get the job done and learn something.

In a day and a bit of working in the garage, we got the front suspension off and the midpipe off. And a few tranny bolts loose. Nearly every nut and bolt fought to the death. The ball joints refused to separate even with a puller wound scary tight. The car isn't rusty. My theory is it used to go to a mechanic who railed on everything with air tools. Even my yuuuge breaker bar was flexing something fierce, and I nearly rounded off an impact-rated drive conversion. Copious amounts of PB Blaster and Freeze-Off were used.

Oddly, most of my tools were not a good fit for the Mazda nuts/bolts. It seemed as if a 14mm head was more like 13.75mm. My sister's sockets were a much better fit. Strange, because I haven't had this problem on Toyotas or Nissans.

Not sure when I'll make another trip to her place, but the tranny will come out eventually!

January 27th, 2018, 08:41 PM
My secret to the ball joints has been lots of hammering on the side of the a-arm. You keep hammering and hammering and suddenly the joint will pop loose.

Wear ear plugs.

January 27th, 2018, 10:18 PM
Can't be good for the ball joint, can it?

The A-arms didn't look that beefy to be whacking them with a hammer to me. I actually thought they were aluminum before the other day. The More You Know...

The tie rods were separated and the knuckles remained attached to the upper arms. The ball joints will either stay, or get pressed out while the bushings are being serviced on the press at the airport shop hangar. :)

The other fun part was the front sway bar megabracket (from Flyin' Miata or somesuch) got in the way of the looooong upper control arm bolt coming out on one side. That meant removing the rad mounts to get to the bracket bolts to drop the bracket down a bit. It sounds easy, in theory... :lol:

January 28th, 2018, 08:25 AM
I strike the knuckle with a dead blow hammer.

January 28th, 2018, 12:15 PM

You smack at the arrow. Nice big, thick casting. Eventually the vibration makes the tapered part of the ball joint just drop out.

January 28th, 2018, 07:07 PM
Oh that one? I just separated the tie rods and left the ball joint on. :) The upper control arm ball joint I tried to pull and hammer free, but no dice.

January 28th, 2018, 07:46 PM
It can take a while, and I always had to hit it a lot harder than I wanted/expected to.

January 29th, 2018, 09:15 AM
Slow and steady progress on the Supra. I found a smoking gun, a vacuum circuit that isn't holding pressure. This circuit is only important for operating the second turbo and doesn't come into play at all when there's <10psi of boost pressure from the first turbo. It adds up in my mind. The problem is getting to the vacuum lines at the back of the engine! I worked on it a few hours yesterday. Today, the main wiring loom comes out...

The paint is coming along fairly well. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SLdH0lIJTlnTbArr2

January 29th, 2018, 09:54 AM
Taping up the car, dayum... :up: :up:

January 29th, 2018, 09:59 AM
Car tape? Vince, that you?

February 1st, 2018, 09:57 PM
Don't want polish residue on the trim now. :)

The main wiring loom didn't actually come out, despite removing everything I could under the passenger foot well. An alternate plan was set in motion.

Many things have been removed (https://photos.app.goo.gl/eQIe9TwGJq8GGGvJ3).

#1 compressor wheel (https://photos.app.goo.gl/9pbf8q0XIxW02BDk1).

Alright you dirty little bastards... you're mine (https://photos.app.goo.gl/QiZ7AuJCUfMelTTX2).

February 2nd, 2018, 04:20 AM
Yeah there's a leak somewhere -- look at all that cooked oil sprayed around there. :(

Had to smell when warm, no?

February 2nd, 2018, 07:24 AM
What do you use for polish?

I used to be big into Zaino, I had my red Intrepid polished to the point it looked like glass. Thinking of doing the same to the MINI and maybe the E46 this spring. Takes a claybar, base coat, and then various top coats and other stuff to really get it slippery though.

February 2nd, 2018, 05:17 PM
I have a few polishes and compounds, as every paint and detail is different and requires test spots to nail down a process. Having said that, Meguiars M205 is a go-to final polish for me. I used to use M105 for compounding but I got sick of how finicky it is and how much haze it leaves behind - requiring a final polish to get the haze out. Nowadays my main compound is Griots Fast Correcting Cream. On my 350Z it finished like a fine polish, so just the one step of FCC was all that was needed. On the Supra, FCC is leaving a slight haze so I'll go back over it with a polish to get more clarity. I'll probably use M205 because I have a ton of it and it's economical. I nearly could get acceptable results with a one-step using Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover which finished out really nicely. It just didn't quite get enough of the RIDS out, I thought. I had to step up to FCC. For polishes I also have Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish, and a couple of samples of different polishes like Menzerna P085RD and BlackFire Polish. I like to use a polish with no fillers, so that I'm sure I have an actual smooth finish.

The optical clarity all comes from the prep (iron decontamination, clay bar, then compound/polish), the slickness comes from the wax or sealant you put on. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 (...) is very easy to apply and remove and is super slick. The one downside for some is it needs a 12hr cure time out of the elements. I use Meguiars Ultimate Quik Wax as a drying aid half the time when I wash the car, which helps lubricate the panel as I'm drying so there are fewer swirl marks that should start to show up over time. This synthetic wax can be used on trim, glass, etc and really helps keep the slickness and performance of the paint going strong all the time. At least until decontamination is needed again. There are various products that can be used in this way. I'm about to try Opti-Seal next.

Yeah there's a leak somewhere -- look at all that cooked oil sprayed around there. :(

Had to smell when warm, no?

Yeah the car does. In a really weird way I kind of like the faint smell of old oil caked on a car's mechanical bits. It reminds me of a simpler time, a connection between man and machine. #nostalgic

My guess is there was a valve cover leak at some point which is what got all the oil there. There was old oil/gunk all over the engine when I took the car home. I've cleaned up a lot of it, obviously this one spot is pretty hard to get to. :)

Very little progress today. I got the upper parts of the four vacuum hoses disconnected, the bottom parts are much harder, primarily because the squeezy hose clamps are facing the firewall. I've got 8 or 10 different pliers on the job and none of them are getting it done.

February 2nd, 2018, 07:25 PM
Yeah the car does. In a really weird way I kind of like the faint smell of old oil caked on a car's mechanical bits. It reminds me of a simpler time, a connection between man and machine. #nostalgic.
Hah, I've been wondering if the smell from my previous leaky Mazdaspeed3 turbo will ever go away.

February 2nd, 2018, 08:56 PM
Bah, I can't edit on mobile.

Like this

And a set that is straight. Use the straight as a set to hold/stop as a brace on the metal tube you are removing the hose from. Then use the angled stork beak set to pry the hose from the tube. Using the bend as the pivot. This can also be done as reverse, using the stork as the pivot and hold and the straight to apply the pressure to push the hose off.

Hope it helps.

February 2nd, 2018, 09:40 PM
Yeah I've got a couple of those angled pliers. Although looking at that picture, that particular set of pliers might be what's needed.

Couple of tricky parts: #1, there's barely enough room for one set of narrow pliers. #2 these clamps (https://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/Spring_Clamp-2.jpg) are on the side of the hoses that can't be reached. I'm trying to turn them around or get the exact funny angles going to get pliers behind the hoses.

February 3rd, 2018, 05:17 AM

It always frustrating when something was installed in the factory and the angle of a clamp is almost impossible to reach because of it. I usually put things back together for ease of removal later if possible.

February 16th, 2018, 08:48 PM
I think the lines in question are best replaced from behind, when the transmission and/or engine are out of the car. :o

I ended up just replacing the one line I could get off. Which, fortunately, was the one with a tiny leak under pressure.

Put everything back together and the car ran better for sure. Still not 100%. I'm now thinking fuel filter, or boost overcoming spark under the heaviest load. Or something.

I need to get going on my own projects so the finishing touches were put on the Supra and I drove it back to the owner yesterday. She was shocked to see how clean it was. I told her I was going to clean it up a little bit but I didn't let on too much about my level of OCD when it comes to detailing. She asked a few questions which was a good opportunity to educate her on proper washing procedures and such. Hopefully it'll stay looking good for a while.

She and her friend will continue to work on it to find that last niggling issue holding it back at full throttle. I'm sure they'll find it - they're both engineers.

Next up: putting the stock exhaust on the blue Z to please the state. I got pulled by an officer who didn't understand the noises MT cars make when accelerating (he thought I was accelerating hard and backing off, in an exhibition of speed) and I was cited for the loud exhaust and not quite letter-of-the-law headers and relocated cats. I agree the exhaust on that car is kindof annoying at times. It came on the silver Z and has only gotten louder over time. Anyway, I'll take this time to also replace the timing chain galley gasket which appears to be starting to go. It's some crazy amount of labor to get to the $10 gasket, but it's kindof important for oil pressure so there ya go. That car is just getting into the mileage range where they fail. 'Tis the one real flaw of the VQ35HR. I think the Infinitis don't have an actual oil pressure gauge so I imagine they go until the oil pressure gets low enough to throw a warning light or a code or something.

Once that's done and signed-off by the state ref I can sell the car, prep the silver Z for sale, and start looking for a G35 sedan or a Twin. Strange cars to be cross-shopping, I know! They are two very different flavors of the direction I want to go, which is "easy button and slightly more practical." I ought to test drive them on the street if I can find them at CarMax or something. The FR-S/BRZ are finally coming down into a range where I can consider them. Plus I've been driving HWY9 (Californians know this one) almost daily the last couple weeks, which is an environment the Toyobaru is made for.

February 16th, 2018, 09:27 PM
A couple quick photos of the Supra in its finished glory.




February 16th, 2018, 09:29 PM
Hwy 9 is an ok road...


February 17th, 2018, 06:02 AM

February 17th, 2018, 09:05 AM
Wow!! Amazing work, Cuda! :sing:

February 17th, 2018, 08:54 PM
If Adam was still hanging out here he would have spotted the HiJet first thing. :)

Hwy 9 is an ok road...


Given the number of blind turns, narrow sections and cyclists (nothing wrong with cyclists), it's not as fun as it could be. But still fun. :) It's gotten really bumpy in spots, too, which really tests the suspension. The magic dampers on the blue Z, even with its low stiff springs, handle these whumps better than the stock suspension in the silver car. I want pimpy Koni magic on all my cars from now on...


February 19th, 2018, 06:16 AM

February 19th, 2018, 06:02 PM
I only drove the Santa Cruz end of 9 in a work truck, so the presence or absence of other traffic didn't affect things much. :D

February 26th, 2018, 08:25 PM
Supra owner has replaced the other 5 coil packs and reports the car now runs as it should, for the first time in years.

:up: :up:

Now I know what boost overcoming spark feels like. *files away in memory*

March 4th, 2018, 10:11 PM
Blue car situation: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9Umlizir4O0hHraX2

Friday deadline is rapidly approaching. It's a yardsale of parts along the garage wall. It looks like the radiator support and a/c condenser are doing weird things, but rest assured they're supported. I wanted more room to work on the front of the engine but didn't want to break both the power steering lines and the a/c lines, so given those lines are on opposite sides and the p/s lines go through the core support to a small cooler, I hinged the core support from near the p/s lines and then hinged the condenser from its lines so I could swing the condenser out a bit. It's kindof a strange process of partial disassembly but it's working.

One reason to get this extra room was to get my impact gun on the crank pulley bolt.

The jack handle on the end of a yuuge breaker bar was no match for the crank bolt: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JQCzk4zS9vyTvuZG3

Fortunately I got a new impact wrench last month. I say fortunately because my 15+ year old Goodyear (https://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-Cordless-Impact-Wrench-33609PB/dp/B00U1TPAQ4), which served me well for countless wheel changes and finally started giving up, wouldn't have been strong enough. Not by a long shot. The new impact, a Ridgid Gen5X (https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/4-mode-impact-wrench) with a fresh 18V/4.0Ah battery, barely got it off after a few doses of PB Blaster, Freeze-Off, and railing away on the bolt.

Anyway I'm still disassembling. My hope is that by the end of tomorrow I can maybe start putting things back together after replacing the timing chain galley gaskets. Stupid little things. :lol: I figure at least 2 days of re-assembly. Then I have to drive it enough to make sure all the OBD2 readiness monitors are happy, and smog it on Friday. Garage life this week.

March 22nd, 2018, 09:41 PM
Done. Now to LA tomorrow for a ProSolo. Fingers crossed my work doesn't come up short away from home!

March 23rd, 2018, 07:55 AM

April 2nd, 2018, 05:05 PM
All good. The car ran great all weekend. One of my competitors says I should be an aircraft mechanic for how irked I get if there isn't a spec or detailed enough procedure laid out in the FSM. :lol:

Doing Z things:


Adulting says I really need to sell it. I don't want to. It's so much fun, a constant skill-sharpener, makes a great noise, is just hardcore enough and just comfortable enough with current mods, and I'm crazy about the color.

April 2nd, 2018, 05:22 PM
Adulting is for sellouts. ;)

April 2nd, 2018, 07:20 PM
You have but one life.

April 2nd, 2018, 09:48 PM
Paying bills is cool, too.

May 7th, 2018, 09:51 AM
It's officially for sale now. http://www.baautox.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=12958

May 8th, 2018, 06:43 AM
Adulting sucks :(

May 8th, 2018, 09:37 PM
Sometimes. It's for the better. There will be other fun cars - I'll always make sure of that.

Might have been the quickest sale ever. Took about 24 hours. The next owner can't come pick it up for a little over a week, but it's as good as sold. I should probably start finding things to test drive soon. I'm cross shopping a strange mix of cars. First year FR-S, 2nd-gen G35 Sedan Sport, or maybe an early Coyote Mustang or another Juke NISMO. Weird huh?

May 9th, 2018, 06:14 AM
I love Mustangs but I have a hard time believing you'd love a Mustang.

May 9th, 2018, 11:38 AM
I've driven a few at schools. One with mild suspension work (springs/shocks), a Boss 302 with heavy suspension work and big Hoosiers (it was amaaaaazing), and a stock one. And honestly, I found them all fun. They're surprisingly well balanced in corners.

Edit - what do I need to know about '11-12 GTs? Lookin' your way Carlo. :cool:

May 9th, 2018, 12:18 PM
Hey, I'm not going to discourage you at all. I'd love to hear how it works out. :up:

MR2 Fan
May 14th, 2018, 09:36 AM
Ford Mustangs, not just for sidewalks anymore

May 14th, 2018, 07:12 PM
I've driven a few at schools. One with mild suspension work (springs/shocks), a Boss 302 with heavy suspension work and big Hoosiers (it was amaaaaazing), and a stock one. And honestly, I found them all fun. They're surprisingly well balanced in corners.

Edit - what do I need to know about '11-12 GTs? Lookin' your way Carlo. :cool:

Um, they get ornery when they've been sitting in a car show, all orifices open, strangers poking and prodding at their innards. They get a taste for human flesh. Or so i've heard...

May 21st, 2018, 09:35 AM
It's gone.

I test drove a '13 FR-S on the street (driven several at autox, but you notice very different things when street driving). Talked to a few owners. I'm getting the impression they are highly variable in terms of how the clutches and shifters feel, and what rattles they have. I was a little surprised a 44k mile FR-S seemed to be less refined than my 117k mile ten year older 350Z. The Z is no less connected in feel, it just feels better made.

Other notes:
- The steering is one of the great things about the FR-S.
- The torque dip is highly exaggerated. It's totally fine for driving around town. It's when you're trying to merge onto the interstate on an uphill onramp that the power (even above 4k) gets disappointing.
- I wish for the shifter to be about 2-3" further back in the transmission tunnel. With the steering wheel all the way towards the dash the steering to shifter relationship is probably fine. With the steering closest to your chest, it's not.
- Plentiful headroom
- Seats seem decent - a 2+ hour journey would tell more. Getting back into the 350Z the seats felt more comfy - better lumbar support, less of a hard bottom cushion, and side bolsters that start closer together for skinny frames like mine.
- In my peripheral vision, the CHMSL in the rearview mirror (which vibrates over bumps... really?) looks like a car behind me. :lol: I guess it's better than not being able to see more than 3 car lengths behind me (the 350Z's oddly huge ergonomic flaw).

May 21st, 2018, 12:15 PM
- Plentiful headroom

I drove mine for three years with average headroom, and inadequate headroom when I was wearing my Stilo crash helmet.

Then I was talking to a random guy, who was having a sit in my car to see if it was suitable for somebody of his height, and he just adjusts the height of the seat down as we're talking.

I facepalmed so hard I went into a coma for three days :)

May 21st, 2018, 02:32 PM
Ever wonder what that lever was for? :)

I lowered the seat all the way right when I got in. Still felt like I was sitting a little high, but it was acceptable and I was well below the roofline.

Wanna know what tripped me out the most? Reversing out of a spot with a manual transmission and seeing rear seats behind me.

May 21st, 2018, 08:05 PM
Ever wonder what that lever was for? :)

I'm so used to shitty old cars, that it didn't even occur to me that a lever would exist, such that I'd look for it.

Despite specifically getting a particular model of Prius, because it had a height adjustable driver seat.

Refer: facepalm.

May 22nd, 2018, 09:57 AM
That is a pretty epic facepalm moment indeed.

More than once I've mistakenly pulled that lever in various modern cars trying to adjust the seatback angle. Their actual seatback adjusting levers are sometimes buried waaay back there. I think the Focestas do this, IIRC.