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That is really weird. I guess I could envision a few scenarios where a poor design leads to premature boot failure, but that seems like something that'd get fixed in relatively short order. But, who knows? Still, seems weird that the first last a respectable life and the replacement didn't. That really suggests a defect.
It's pretty much impossible that replacing a boot isn't possible, but I know a lot of modern cars where it's simply not done - either due to the manufacturer never making the parts available or it being so difficult as to be impractical. The nonserviceable axle is a thing, unfortunately, but it shouldn't exist in combination with a 10k service life! Don't these guys warranty their work & parts? Or, does she drive so little she exhausts the time before the mileage? That's poopy. :(
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I don't know the warranty time/mileage, but you're right she doesn't drive very much in a year. Maybe 3-4k miles. Still, 3 years should not be the service life of an axle boot. I kept trying to think of ways it could articulate in a way to stretch/tear the boot or have the U-joint rub the boot from the inside, but she's not exactly rallying the car and the suspension seems in decent enough shape. Worn shocks but that wouldn't do it.
Someone on another forum pointed these out for the Z bushings: http://www.meganracing.com/products/...=2269&catid=90
Seems like a winner! I'm dubious of the claims that their special rubber doesn't tear, but it wouldn't surprise me if these outlasted the OEM bushings.
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Yeah, three years is nuts. Most of my cars see similar mileage and they aren't failing. I would expect an easy ten years. Maybe the suspension can compress or droop to a point the boot is stressed and tears, but that seems like it'd be a result of rad jumps and not getting groceries. Maybe repeated full lock turning? That seems like something normal people would do. Still, why a good run out of the original and a short out of the replacement?
I like those Megan bushings, at least conceptually. I'd definitely throw $80 at a test run! What I can't tell is if anti-cracking rubber is a drug joke or a sex joke. I'll get back to you.
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Re: boot, we're thinking all the same things there. I'd find it hard to believe Toyota of the 90s would make their bread and butter car have a flaw that kills CV boots. And the original ones lasted quite some years anyway.
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I ordered the Megan bushings as well as a couple others for the other front lower control arm where I see some tearing starting. Come to find out that FR-Sport has a solid SCCA member discount and free shipping. That ended up being a good choice. :up:
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We removed the lower control arms from the front end today. There are two LCAs per corner and each arm has its own ball joint at the knuckle. Both passenger side ball joints had a slight issue - the threaded portion turned with the nut when loosening the nut. Not initially - it was able to be broken loose - but later the threaded stud turned with the nut with hand tools. Managed to squeeze my fingers around the boot and use an impact gun on the nut to get it off.
Question is, how will I get the nut back on and torqued without the ball joint turning? Especially as I expect to have to torque the nut to a half bajillion ft-lbs.
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I assume these are tapered fittings? It's not entirely uncommon. Check for corrosion on the pin and the socket, be sure all surfaces all clean and smooth and there is no slop in the ball joint. Depending on the location of adjacent parts, you can use something like a big pair of channel lock pliers, vice grips, or even ratcheting tie downs to secure the LCA to something rigid and apply pressure to the joint. It should not take much before it engages to the point you can torque it down properly. I will say it's a little unusual for them to spin coming out - that almost suggests they weren't properly tightened or maybe the lock nut had backed off (due to failure). But, they could be just fine. :)
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This guy used a beefy c-clamp:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/content...nt/image18.jpg
I've seriously never thought of that. Derp.
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THanks for ideas. I'll see what I can do - one of them might even work to put a jack under the ball joint and apply upward pressure while tightening the nut. No locknuts here - cotter pins.
I had another update but darned if I can remember what it is. #toomanyironsinthefire
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Oh yes, now I have it. [/brainfart]
I need to remount the little GPS receiver for the head unit. It goes on the dash by the windshield. The adhesive that was on there worked great but wasn't re-usable. It's square with a little bit of thickness and squishy-ness. I'm thinking something like this would be the ticket?
http://craftindesertdivas.com/scrapb...-foam-squares/
Want something that won't lose stick in the heat of a car in summer, and won't damage the dash finish if it needs to be removed. The description here says "won't melt" which is why I picked it.
Other ideas?