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Thread: dodint's Automotive Evolution

  1. #601
    Bad Taste novicius's Avatar
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    Then run Predator carbs w/. a 2" spacer ya delicate tip-in flower. #easybutton

  2. #602
    Senior Member
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    I'll just call you stone feet

    Lol

  3. #603
    Dead Brand Ambassador dodint's Avatar
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    Wooooo.

    $63 out the door.
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  4. #604
    Bad Taste novicius's Avatar
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    Wow!!

  5. #605
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    Fuck yeah

  6. #606

  7. #607
    I'm gooder. Phil_SS's Avatar
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    Veddy nice!

  8. #608
    Dead Brand Ambassador dodint's Avatar
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    Thanks. I finally cleaned off the label and it is indeed a 3.46 open differential, it had 157k on it and came out of a 325xi wagon.
    It was *almost* a relatively easy removal. The car was badly damaged on the front end and all the cars in the lot are about 20" off the ground. The motor was on the ground still attached to the transmission. The driveline was intact the whole length of the car. The transmission was being held up by the shifter cable that ran from the shift knob down to the auto transmission. The way it was laying the drive shaft was being pushed back into the differential and no amount of man-force could keep them uncoupled. We figured out to cut the shifter cable and let the transmission fall to the ground and it relieved that tension from the input flange. The diff fell out relatively easy after that.

    After work today I'm going to have a look under the car and see if the drive shaft matches the input flange on the 3.46 differential. If it doesn't I need to come up with some kind of solution, it has to be pressed in to a certain pressure where it mates with the spline but doesn't bind up the bearing in there, not sure how to do that correctly. I have some write-ups bookmarked but they're over my head. If I do need to swap the input flange I'll read more into it, hoping I only have to do the output flanges which just pop on and off. Seems to be hit or miss on what's out there between the different years, motors, and differentials.

    Ash is out of town and my car is in the garage, I figured I could take 10 minutes this morning and swap over my shift knob. Turns out that didn't go as planned so I waited for lunch (teleworking today) and tackled the job then.

    Aftermarket Momo knob, I planned to resell it on eBay but noticed that the clearcoat on the carbon fiber had worn down so it was pretty much useless:



    I've removed BMW shift knobs before but this one was the absolute worst. I ended up dremeling out the CF/platic inserts and running a pry bar through the metal loop. It still took a ton of force to get it out. I thought for sure the prior owner skipped the set bolts and used loctite to secure the knob, but the shaft was clean. There was a rubber liner on the shaft, not sure if it was creating a vacuum or what.



    New knob went on without much fanfare. It's obvious that my 5th gear detent pin has killed the bearing bushing as the taller knob really shows how the car rests in neutral between 4-5 instead of 3-4. It's a $5 kit to fix it but you have to remove the transmission from the car to do it. I'll wait until I have to replace the clutch and then do that as an add-on project. It won't get worse or hurt anything. It's a very well known problem with the ZF 5-speed transmission that came in the E36 M3 and E46s.



    Shifter feels much better now. Someday I'll buy the nice alcantara one that I put in my E36, but this replacement was $13 instead of $90 so it will do for now.
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  9. #609
    Bad Taste novicius's Avatar
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    Clean...

  10. #610
    Dead Brand Ambassador dodint's Avatar
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    Took the car into my BMW dealer to get the Takata airbag recall done. Now if I stuff it into a tire barrier the steering wheel won't shoot shards of metal into my face. Happy day.

    The dealer does a little inspection to find things wrong, they noted my differential is leaking from the pinion and axle seals and offered to fix it for $580. I told them that I have a new diff and the seals, which cost about $27 from Pelican Parts that arrived earlier this week.
    Also has a leaky valve cover gasket which is pretty standard for this car and age, I'll fix that myself in the spring. They wanted $350 to fix.
    Oddly the tires are down to 1/32nd and 2/32nd in the rear which I found to be surprising since they still have good snow traction and look visually okay from a distance. A testament to the strength of the engine tune, I guess. Inspection is due in April so I'll have to start researching what I want for DD tires. Probably Falkens of some sort, they've been my brand since Pirelli stopped making quality tires.

    They were also able to finally pull the Dinan build sheet. I was surprised to find that the exhaust wasn't theirs, unless it was done after the initial build.

    It has the Stage II Performance Tune and the High-Flow Air Intake. That's it. For my needs that's actually good since all I need to do to make it SpecE46 compliant is put the factory air box back on and put the class ECU tune on. Easy.

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