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Thread: Forza 7

  1. #231
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    Played for the first time with a controller, mostly to avoid waking Michele up with the noise of the FFB on the wheel. Had no issues with the back end of the car stepping out. I hope I can find settings for a wheel that make it more driveable, and interesting that it seems to be the polar opposite of pcars.

  2. #232
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    Apparently they have a Rivals challenge that unlocks a couple of cars, but getting the secondary goal might be a little tough.

    Rivals > Featured Events > Launch Bounty Hunter

    Set any time and win a 2016 Chevy Camaro SS

    Beat Josef Newgarden's time of 1:46.083 to win a 1977 Holden Torana FE.

  3. #233
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    Well, I got the Camaro, but I'm not going to be able to beat Newgarden's time.

    Ran into a few real bugs this time. Had one crash to desktop, which was followed by the game not allowing me to start it again, claiming I wasn't on the internet. That eventually fixed itself.

    After that had a vaguely amusing one on the Bronco autocross event, just that it spent the whole race telling me I was on gate 52,883 of 143.

    The other one I had was pretty bad and I was wondering if anyone else had run into it. Multiple times per lap, my wheel would just yank to the left. I was playing with a controller and with my steering wheel unplugged (for some reason, the game still sends some FFB stuff to the wheel even if you're playing with a controller, which defeats the purpose of using the controller to avoid waking up the wife with the jackhammering of the G27 FFB). My pedals and flight stick were both plugged in, but that's normal. The in-car wheel would yank violently to the left for just a split second, almost full lock, then snap back, and the car would lurch accordingly, which makes staying on the track a little tough. What got me is that I've got the steering set to Normal (I just can't do Simulation with a controller), which normally dampens any movement. Yank the stick all the way to the left on the controller and the on-screen wheel eases into the left. This was just almost immediate to almost full lock, then almost immediate back, which makes me think it wasn't interference from another controller, it was a bug with the game.

    At least I got a couple of the annoying car bowling things out of the way.

  4. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Servo View Post
    Multiple times per lap, my wheel would just yank to the left.
    I read something about this on reddit but I can't remember the details. Not helpful but at least now you know you're not alone.

  5. #235
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    Exactly what I wanted to know so I don't spend hours connecting and disconnecting devices trying to track it down. Thanks!

  6. #236
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    Never did find anything on Reddit, but did find a thread on the official forums, so I just posted about it there. Hopefully that gets sorted, I really don't think it's a hardware issue.

  7. #237
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    It is annoyingly difficult to convince these people that this is not a hardware problem.

  8. #238
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    Okay, I think I figured it out, as disconnecting every other device I own appears to have fixed it. I've noticed that F7 will more often than I'd like help out by reassigning my pedal inputs to the non-existent G27 pedal set. I'll start a race and have nothing from the pedals, and when I go into the controller assignments, it tells me that the pedal inputs are on the same device as the wheel. I reassign to the clubsports and then all is well for at least a few races. I've also seen people saying that the menus are twitchy sometimes. You'll see the navigation items (like what button or key to press to do something) flicker back and forth between keyboard and controller.

    My theory is that F7 is really quick to change between devices as soon as it receives some change of signal and that it's also prone to unassigning devices if it feels like it. I think it had once again changed the pedal assignment, leaving the clubsport pedals unassigned. Then, just because they do that, there would be a little flicker of movement out of the pedals...like, it'd send a "1" instead of a "0" for just a split second. That "1" would register as 1 away from hard left ("0") on X. The game would pick up that movement and assume that I had cranked everything hard left, then as soon as the controller gave any sort of input back, it'd switch back to the controller and all would be fine again.

    I'm not super keen on digging around at the back of my machine to disconnect USB devices every time I want to use a controller, and hope that the Forza devs see this and maybe put some kind of threshold/delay in there. Like, the pedal has to move at least 10% of its throw to take over or something, or show movement for at least half a second. Still, happy to have it solved.

  9. #239
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    Man, speaking of the credits for cars being all screwy, I find it amusing that a Pontiac G8 and a Lotus 2-Eleven apparently cost the same amount of money, at least according to the little "car discount when leveling up" widget.

  10. #240
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    Because of my work schedule, I’ve just been doing a race here and there in career mode. Since I stopped buying cars, I shot up to the “100 cars owned” achievement rather quickly from leveling up my driver ranking. And almost every one of them free. In fact, it seems like when I bought a car, it meant the next time I hit a driver level, it cost me money to get the car.

    Now, I’m getting a free car almost after every single race, as I have more than enough money to buy the really nice mod cards (and doing the long version of races. Sometimes I can clear $120k-140k for a race in the Domination series.

    The MX-5 Cup series was a lot of fun, until the Dubai track. I wish I had saved the replay from Lime Rock. Some of my late braking maneuvers into the first chicane were really nice. Homestead was a blast, and the version of Suzuka in this game is gonna take some getting used to. That chicane after the hairpin is brutal, especially in the muscle car “Drag” series I did with the ‘69 396 Camaro, in the rain.

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