I went with the 4529, since the 4534 doesn't have an installer and 4530 isn't on their website, leading me to believe it's an old product that's been replaced with the '29.
Does anybody know anything about woodworking? Anybody ever made a box joint? Anybody own a table saw miter or a router table? Do I need to join a woodworking forum?
My father in law the retired contractor knows all those things. Got a specific question?
Our old water heater closet is in the downstairs bathroom and now that we installed a tankless it's just wasted space. I want to build some shelves in there, including a drawer or two. I know I'm not good enough to build a dovetail joint, but I think I can manage a box joint or a finger joint. I don't have any of the equipment necessary to do that - all I have is a nice miter saw. I think I can do either box or finger joints with a table saw and miter or with a router table, but I don't know which is more reliable. I'm willing to buy either but can't afford both - I just need to know where the smart money is.
(This also filters back into the storage in the Suburban - if I can build a drawer for the bathroom I could also build a false floor and drawer in the Suburban!)
Another question for FIL: I need to drill about 28 3/8" or 7/16" holes in a beam that is comprised of two 2x6s fixed together. The issue is that one side of the beam twists or tilts on its vertical access - eg, the top of the beam leans away. I was going to acquire my first set of spade bits for this project, but I am concerned that spade bits will follow the tilt, which is not desirable. I need the holes to be perfectly parallel to the ground. Is this not actually a problem, is there a way to solve this, or just use normal twist bits?
Forstner bit is the droid you are looking for, I think. They are good at boring straight holes and not following wood grain, etc.Originally Posted by thesameguy
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Har...s/N-5yc1vZc90r
The perfectly parallel to the ground part is going to be up to your eye, or maybe duct tape + hand level on the drill.
Whoomah!
I was under the impression keeping a Forstner bit straight was tough as they have almost no guide. Maybe start the hole that way and finish with a spade? I need to pass a 4" long bolt through the hole, so it needs to be pretty straight. I guess that's probably an important detail.
Nothing is ever easy.
Maybe an adjustable drill guide?
$20 at Harbor Freight for a works once or twice model...
That might work pretty well as I could then potentially use the drill's level as a, you know, level.
FIL used a Forstner to drill the bolt holes for our patio structure, IIRC. *shrug* I think the wings of the bit help center it. You're only going through 3" of material, too.
I have a 18"-long cable installer bit that would probably work.
You'll have to reset the drill guide each time, I'd guess, if you want perfectly level holes.
edit: a slightly oval/not-right hole is easy to deal with: 1) stick bolt in hole until it doesn't move, 2) apply hammer, 3) ???, 4) Profit.
Whoomah!
Most of the beam is straight, it's just the end that gets twisty. Maybe four holes need to drilled at an angle, the other 20 are straight. Hopefully.
Fwiw, I bet that twist comes out when you run a bunch of bolts through it.
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