Oh, and also, anyone know anything about porting exhaust manifolds? Not sure whether I should be using a carbide deburring type thing or sandpaper rolls. :/ I tried a grinding stone on a die grinder, but that didn't do anything except wreck the stone. Heh.
This is what a Fiero exhaust manifold looks like:
It's a positively shit construction technique. I want to turn the decidedly oval-shaped ports into round shape ports.
Edit for a better picture...
Are you just cleaning them up and/or port matching, or hogging them out?
Carbide is definitely what you want, and then you finish the job with sandpaper rolls. Just remember that carbide works quickly and it takes getting used to porting with it because, with a good die grinder, you can accidentally take off WAY too much material. I would even say practice on a junk manifold or head first.
Street-ported rotary!
Whoomah!
Acutally, that's useful information for me in another way--I've got a knife kit that I haven't gotten around to building because I got stuck at working on the guard, which is nickel-silver and hella hard.Looks like I need a carbide burr kit for my Dremel.
Whoomah!
Pseudo-port matching. I'm eliminating the "inner oval" so there is no restriction between runner and plenum, as there is now.Originally Posted by tigeraid
Thanks for the advice - now I just need to find carbide bits designed for air. All Summit seems to have is bits for electric drills, and that sounds really uncomfortable to work with.
Someone mentioned the ratchet wrenches. A few years back at Menard's I picked up two three packs(1 SAE, 1 metric, each wrench is a different color, two sizes per wrench) of them. I think they were maybe $10/set. They've worked great the few times I've used them.
Today's addition was a $10 back pack that I promptly stuffed with ratchet straps(2"x20' & 1"x12') and a bungee cord for work. I got tired of the straps laying around in the hatch of the car, so now with the back pack I have a little more order and neatness.
Ya'll may recall (ha, that rhymes) a while back I did a compression test on the Fleetwood and came back with initially disappointing results... a bunch of 120psis with a 90psi in the middle. Last week, I did a compression test on the parts E320 and got a bunch of 120psis with a couple 90s in the middle. It didn't initially hit me, but late Saturday night while watching Paranoia (which wasn't an all-bad movie) it hit me... what are the effing chances that two completely different motors would yield numbers even remotely similar? About zero, IMHO.
I never really trusted my crap Actron tester even when it was new, but figured it was likely "a little inaccurate" rather than "limited to two results." I did a little looking around and couldn't find any compression tester I liked better than the OTC one, so I ordered a 5605 through Amazon.com:
The magic in this kit is this:
An 8" long 14mm adapter for modern deep-well spark plugs. Ah, it makes doing compression tests on DOHC motors so much nicer.
I did a quick test with it last night on the Benz and yielded six holes with numbers ranging from 180 to 200psi - awesome on a cold motor. (I'll warm it up tonight and repeat.)
Like all OTC stuff, it's of very reasonable quality and nicely packed in a plastic case. It even comes with a bag of spare o-rings for when the seals on the fittings invariably give up which is very cool. Amazon+OTC makes my life just so much easier.
I have the 5606. Without that metal adapter. Even little old me still got to the plugs deep within the heads of the Z. But it's probably quicker with that extra accessory you got.
Also, good news on the Benzmotor!
Yeah, my old tester had an extension for dealing with the wells, but it just never felt right twisting the hose to seat the fitting. This thing just screws right in using its big ol' ears and it's very obvious when it's properly installed. It saved real time running the compression test. I'm glad to have this tool in my arsenal!
I just noticed this smilie...... I have nothing else to add.
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