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Thread: The Lounge of Terrestrial Wheelmen

  1. #4761
    Bubbles :D M4FFU's Avatar
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    Also, my bike needs a major service. Brakes were woeful all day, and after about 8 hours in, even right hand pedal made an awful noise, I think from my bottom bracket. Needs some tools and some time. Also looking at a brake upgrade as my brakes are pretty low spec.

  2. #4762
    Jedi Cam's Avatar
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    Well done!

    Someone nearly cleaned me this morning. I was approaching a T intersection with a stop sign. Someone coming from my right totally cuts the corner to turn into where I am coming from, 100% of their vehicle on the wrong (my) side of the street. I brake hard and move right, but I did not get my foot out of my egg beaters in time and fell over. They just kept driving like nothing was wrong.
    Last edited by Cam; September 26th, 2019 at 05:42 AM.

  3. #4763
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    Yeesh, love those people. Are you okay?

  4. #4764
    Subaru Unimpreza SportWagon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M4FFU View Post
    So, I can finally sit down.

    Was a long, long day in the saddle. Longer than I've ever done, but my "training" never went more than 3 hour rides and that was mainly road. GEtting battered on gnarly single track, long decents getting arm pump as you're always on the brakes - need to train to survive that better.
    Congratulations again. It's not ideal that you made yourself that sore. You're presumably young enough to recover, however. With proper training for next year, the soreness should go away after only a couple of hours and a good nap.

  5. #4765
    Subaru Unimpreza SportWagon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    I'll be interested in any further crank puller chatter that may occur. That may be the next tool I buy.
    Crank pullers tend to be vendor-specific though sometimes cross-compatible. You won't use it that often, presumably.

    It's just relative thread leverage. With a pusher appropriate for the particular range of designs. Often the bolt/nut holding the crank on is actually 15mm and the tool for that (distinct from the puller) usually happens to work well for fixie nuts. Also, often the bolt on the puller itself can be turned by that same tool. (But doesn't have to be; the bolt/nut remover is more specialized becaus the bolt/nut is in a hole with only a little clearance; that said, I'd guess in many cases thin wall sockets would work too. For tightening, the vendor wrench is probably designed to encourage the appropriate (not too much) amount of tightening torque. An improperly tightened crank-arm bolt/nut can easily allow wiggle squeak, which is very harmful to the crank; some vendors may publish recommended torque values).

  6. #4766
    High Plains Luddite George's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M4FFU View Post
    ...to buy a full suspension bike for next years attempt.
    Rigid is faster!

    Quote Originally Posted by Cam
    They just kept driving like nothing was wrong.
    Driver, looking up from smart phone: "What's the deal with these crazy bicyclists around here?"

    Passenger: "I know, right? One of them just crashed behind us."

    Quote Originally Posted by SportWagon
    For tightening, the vendor wrench is probably designed to encourage the appropriate (not too much) amount of tightening torque. An improperly tightened crank-arm bolt/nut can easily allow wiggle squeak, which is very harmful to the crank; some vendors may publish recommended torque values).
    That reminds me that I probably need a torque wrench. Generally I like buying tools but those sure come with hefty price tags. It's not a "fun" tool to buy...sort of like the new string trimmer I need for the yard. The POS Black & Decker that I've been disappointed with since I bought it won't hold a charge anymore, but I keep putting off buying another one with winter coming.

    Speaking of questionable priorities, I've been watching craigslist for 26" rear wheels that will take a modern cassette. After seeing a few compatible wheelsets listed for $100 and up, earlier this week I pounced on an 8-speed wheelset for $40, and nearby, too. I try not to travel far for craigslist deals. They came with 26" x 1.25" Maxxis Detonator slick tires in great condition.

    The tiny tires didn't really matter to me but now that I have them, I'm going to put them on my 8-speed MTB this weekend and see if they make it a rocket ship on the road - just for fun, not long term. I wonder if I'll have to adjust the RD...maybe not if I switch my bar-end shifter to friction mode. And those tires might be fun for the kids to tear around on, too, although I read some reviews of those tires that said Detonator is a good name for them because they get so many punctures.

    They cleaned up really well. Here's the seller's picture from CL. I have since de-gunked the cassette and cleaned the sidewalls to get the smudges off the lettering. Gotta look sharp!



    Oh, and the best part of the story - the seller said he was moving and gave me some spare tubes and also a bright, shiny pair of gaudy red quick-release skewers that weren't pictured in the ad. I might stick 'em on my son's bike and see if he notices.


  7. #4767
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    I have a Park Tool TW-5, it really an excellent wrench except that it only goes up to 15nm. Shimano Octalinks look like they're supposed to be torqued to 35-50nm, so it's only really good for things like handlebars, seatposts, etc.

    You really don't *need* one most of the time unless you're working with carbon. My Madone has a seat shroud rather than seatpost (essentially the frame extends up, then the "seat shroud" slides down over that rather than a post going into a seat tube). Because of that, if you overtorque the bolt on there, you damage the frame rather than a cheapo seatpost, which means I always use my torque wrench for that. I don't really use it for anything other than its ratchetyness on the Orbea.

  8. #4768
    High Plains Luddite George's Avatar
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    Park Tool TW-5:



    Does that give you enough leverage to remove a cassette? Edit: please ignore that question - I re-read your post. I bought a cassette removal socket (I hope that's the right term) a while back but I couldn't budge the one cassette I've tried to remove. I didn't have a cheater pipe handy and didn't want to mess anything up, so I quit trying.

    That's why my son and my wife endure the shame of old yellowed dork discs on their bikes currently. I'm an unfit father and husband, I know. I think I've also read that cassettes need to be cranked down really tight when installing them, so I figured I need one of the old-school ones I learned about in auto mechanics class in high school, but I'm open to anything that works.

    I was thinking I need one of these, or maybe what you have and a long length of pipe to fit over it.



    Edited to add: after re-reading your post, it sounds like the TW-5 is not the ideal choice for a one-and-only torque wrench for me. Still, thanks for mentioning it. I haven't seriously researched TWs yet so any information is helpful at this point.

    Quote Originally Posted by Torque Servo
    ...so it's only really good for things like handlebars, seatposts, etc.
    Looks like this is more like what I need:

    https://www.parktool.com/product/rat...-wrench-tw-6-2

    Quote Originally Posted by Park Tool
    The TW-6.2 is...Designed for higher torque settings for repairs and installation in the bottom bracket, cassette lockring and other areas that use a higher torque settings. For lower torque setting, see the TW-5.2.
    Last edited by George; September 26th, 2019 at 11:59 AM.

  9. #4769
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    The Park Tool chain whips that I have (basically like the discontinued SR-18) have an enclosed wrench that fits the cassette lockring tool. I accidentally bought a single-speed one which has a chain too thick for my cassettes, so now I have two. They're long enough that I can usually get some pretty good leverage - put one on the cassette with the chain part, the other on the cassette lockring tool with the wrench part, so they're basically at 2 and 10 o'clock, with the chainring on the side of the wheel facing away from me. Then I just put as much force as I can pushing down on both wrenches and that's generally done the trick. No need to specifically have that tool for the wrench, I just like having that enclosed socket as I feel it's less likely to slip off and make me end up hurting myself.

  10. #4770
    Subaru Unimpreza SportWagon's Avatar
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    Before casettes, you had freewheel clusters which were actually self-tightening. You mentioned single-speed. It should presumably also get tightened just by riding?

    So those could get really firmly screwed on. To unscrew them I would fit the remover into the freewheel body, put a large wrench onto the "nut" part of the remover, and then find a wall I could "back" the wheel into.

    I.e. with the freewheel on the left side of the wheel as you look at it, set the wrench so it would drive the wheel backwards into the wall. (All the time being sure the tool was securely fitted into whatever proprietary type of socket arrangement it is supposed to go into; some were nice and deep and secure--other times you'd have just a couple of tooth-like extensions poking not too securely into matching recesses).

    And, ah, yes. I remember using chain wrenches like (I think) Tom describes to take the smallest cog off some cluster designs. They similarly used to be self-tightening. A similar operation is involved if you want to change your fixed-gear rear sprocket.

    I actually think one of the couple of chain "whips" I have somewhere was hand-made by a handy member of a club I used to belong to.
    Last edited by SportWagon; September 30th, 2019 at 03:22 PM.

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