Page 4 of 45 FirstFirst ... 2345614 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 446

Thread: Car Audio.

  1. #31
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10,171
    Well, Robert Bosch Corp. isn't broadly known for its quality, so there you have it.

    I don't give a rip about the filters (in building a system I'd rather go for a discrete crossover network) but the lack of high-volt preouts does suck. Although I'm told that with modern Class D amplifiers and modern car electricals (BCMs really cut down electrical noise) such concerns are wasted - but I can't help shake the notion that more preamp volts the better.

  2. #32
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    5,263
    I am running a DMD and loving it. I refuse to go back to paying for a CD player when I don't use the damned thing.

  3. #33
    Ask me about my bottom br
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    ox.mx
    Posts
    3,654
    Not Car Audio per se, but I see no need for a new thread.

    Spoiler:
    Window shopping for a pair of reference monitors, I saw that a pair of actives were rated at 60W @ 20 Ohms. How do they do that?
    Spoiler:
    I mean, I understand the reasoning, but still: holy technology Batman!
    acket.

  4. #34
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10,171
    That's nuts... do they double as microwaves?

  5. #35
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    5,263

  6. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10,171
    Thought I'd mention this here -

    I bought some of these



    from http://www.newark.com/multicomp/2ub3...82?ost=20T7282

    to put in the Southwind. They arrived today, and I'm pretty happy about them. In the past, I've used just bare rectangular jacks scavenged from PC-type applications, but the nice thing about these is that you can make a spot for them quickly with a small hole saw. I also like the fact they come with a cap, so if you're not using the port you can screw the cap on so things don't fall into the connector. Also, while the PC part solution is nice for its compactness, but it creates limitations with some cables and flash drives that have even slightly abnormally short connectors - you need to make the panel opening bigger than you think, which sometimes compromises the panel material. These have no such issues. They are available with various cable lengths, but I got the shortest ones as the leads from stereos are usually pretty substantial.

    Not really related to car audio, I'll also mention this thing:



    available from http://www.waytekwire.com/item/11013...ARGER-12V-24V/

    It has two 2.1a USB ports for charging - no data. Just plug it into positive and negative and you can charge even your iPad in the car. I like that it's hardwired and not cigarette lighter based, as pulling 2.1a through those jenky adapters always worries me - they tend to get quite warm. One thing that is not apparent in the product description is that the face plate is totally removable, so you can either surface mount it (drill a hole, use two screws to secure it) or secure it from the rear with a nut. Which is what she likes.

  7. #37
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    5,263
    Dude....I need that second one for the Denali center console.

  8. #38
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10,171
    One thing not advertised is that the front of the thing is poorly lit by a bright blue LED. The rubber cover totally blocks out the light, but the issue is that as long as it has power, it's going to be draining my battery. I had to redo my entire wiring plan. Oh well.

    I'm still happy with the device itself, and they will probably find their ways into other places. A 1 1/8" hole saw is perfect for it. A 7/8" hole saw is ever so slightly too large for the USB data ports, but serviceable.

  9. #39
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    5,263
    Quote Originally Posted by thesameguy View Post
    One thing not advertised is that the front of the thing is poorly lit by a bright blue LED. The rubber cover totally blocks out the light, but the issue is that as long as it has power, it's going to be draining my battery. I had to redo my entire wiring plan. Oh well.

    I'm still happy with the device itself, and they will probably find their ways into other places. A 1 1/8" hole saw is perfect for it. A 7/8" hole saw is ever so slightly too large for the USB data ports, but serviceable.

    Run a relay switched off of the ignition powering it...

  10. #40
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    10,171
    Well, the whole point of it was to make charging stuff easy, and having to turn on the ignition to use it isn't easy. It's not the end of the world, but does reduce the usefulness of the device somewhat. They should sell an unlit version for people who don't want to have the vehicle on to use it - at least a version that has a built in ignition sense you wouldn't need to use an external relay to turn it on or off.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •