Cuda, I have an entire engine building course from HPA I could send you the log in info if you would like. I bought the entire package for around 300$ a while back as a refresher. It has some great information in it.
That goes for anyone else in here.
If we all chip in, we could possibly have a communal log in with all of there courses at a reasonable cost. Just an idea.
Ok that might be excessive for my goals.Originally Posted by Rikadyn
Turbo LS swap?
I'd like to achieve around 8lb/hp which is in the range of water cooled 911 GT3s. Once a roll bar and a heavier engine/trans go in the Spyder the weight creeps up, probably to 2,320-2,350 or so. The stock drivetrain is super lightweight which is cool, but a weird downside for how much weight swaps can add. (I don't have comparable weight info for K series engine/trans, just the common Toyota swaps). At this weight about 300 flywheel HP would be the goal. That's on the optimistic end of the spectrum with the restrictions I'm likely facing.
It's my preference to stay NA, and have gearing that achieves around 70-75mph in 2nd gear (depending on how much power/torque ends up in the thing). That's a stretch without doing custom gears ($$$) or raising redlines. Which brings about its own complications for legality. Good sound is important to me, too. The K2x passes this qualification with ease.So do the Toyota V6s - but they have low low redlines. I can't find an engine with all the qualities I want that is known to be a smog legal swap in this car. A VQ35HR sounds kind of ideal but there's no good FWD transaxle I know of for them, plus I'd be in uncharted waters and have to do my own engineering and fabricating to fit one in the small Spyder engine bay, which is beyond my current abilities. I need a swap that has had the kinks worked out of it already and has functioning AC etc. As it is the 300hp Toyota V6 requires some access holes be cut in the firewall, and/or a custom subframe ($$$), and Lotus trans/ECU ($$$) to be fully road legal here because you couldn't get it with a manual in any Toyota application here. Any K-series or AR-series 4cylinder that was built up towards 300hp would be easy enough to do but not without falling afoul of more of these rules that are excessively restrictive.
So after all that it's likely I'll either give up on all this and just toss an old 2ZZ in over a weekend (and pray), or do a stock 2AR swap and have 170 torques throughout the rev range but a sub-7k redline and sub-optimal gearing.
Down the line something like the GR Yaris engine would seem like an interesting swap for someone to do. It's tiny but mighty.
430lbs for K24 engine/trans according to here
Given I live in a non-inspection state, I'd probably do a turbo hayabusa or something else that would Rev to the moon
Sounds like fun!
That Honda engine swap weight link is super cool. Good apples to apples comparison of those drivetrains. The problem I've found is comparing apples to apples across various engines/manufacturers. It's not often stated what the engine is dressed with (manifolds, flywheel, etc) or whether that includes oil, which all makes a difference when comparing. Like, apparently the 2.5 4cyl 2AR and the 3.5 V6 2GR weigh similar amounts if you believe the numbers I saw, and that's still hard for me to compute as being a straight across comparison.
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I scoped one cylinder in my MR2 Turbo (3SGTE) and one in my 328i (N51) to compare. Both engines seem perfectly healthy.
The 3SGTE had very consistent cross-hatching, both in terms of how present they were everywhere and the angle/straightness of the lines. One section had a few vertical lines that looked shallow/subtle, and slightly worn crosshatching in that area. Gonna guess side force stuff again and is probably normal.
The N51 looked entirely different. No hint of crosshatching anywhere. No vertical lines. No visible wear areas. The cylinder literally looked perfect. The material was a lighter base color and seemed to have a subtle micro texture to it. This made me wonder if BMW used a unique process so I looked it up and it's alusil stuff. Neat.
Took a bit of video, but the Depstech software tried to save them to a folder that didn't exist, so they didn't save.
Currently learning about measuring bores and how to do that. I may remove and then measure this 1ZZ block before deciding whether it's serviceable. That means more downtime and more time the MR2 Turbo has to sit outside, which isn't ideal.
Based on the findings from the 3SGTE I am thinking some of these cross hatch marks in the 1ZZ are pretty deep. I may have to keep that in mind when charting out cylinder measurements in various places.
Not my car, but my sister's '97 Miata:
Water pump had been leaking for a little while. My sister, though mechanically inclined and having more/nicer tools than I, was a bit intimidated by this particular job after she read about it. I went over last week to wrench with her. She lives east of the Sierra Nevadas in a little desert town in the middle of nowhere called Ridgecrest. It was nice to get away for a few days and enjoy the quiet life!
Upon disassembly we found something fascinatingly wrong. With the cam gears lined up where piston #1 would be at TDC, the crank gear was off by at least a tooth. I was so fascinated by this especially given the car didn't run like crap before. I confirmed with a screwdriver resting on the #1 piston while my sister turned the crank by hand, that the mark on the crank gear did in fact coincide with TDC as expected. It's just the mark was off compared to the cams. So everything piston-wise was happening a step behind everything happening with the valves. This "crank offset" also explains why the base timing on this car was set too advanced when she got it (we always wondered how it had gotten set to 18* BTDC) - the crank was rotated counter clockwise when the timing belt job was last done and they likely didn't re-time the car with a timing light after - because why would you, normally? So she and I properly timed the car when we put it back together correctly with a new belt (and tensioner, crank/cam seals, water pump, valve cover gasket, drive belts, etc). The car should run better now!
Last edited by CudaMan; January 24th, 2022 at 11:27 AM.
I would say so.
Reading this makes my soul cringe.
Like... The fact it didn't have any obvious issues just baffles me.
I know right? Non-interference engine but still. Without seeing this I never would have suspected a car with timing too far advanced would have this root cause, you know? It didn't ping when I test drove it here in the valley, but when my sister took it to the high desert where she lives it was pinging up any hills. That's when she found the timing was off.
So in essence, last week we put the timing (via the cam angle sensor) more or less back where it had been when she got it - but now it was in the correct range since the crank was in the right spot. Man.
That was a real lightbulb moment when I saw that and started piecing this all together.
I didn't know this when you first made this comment, but I've since learned it's not too hard to get 8k RPM out of a 2GR V6, and it's an easy swap in the SW20's big engine bay.
Sounds pretty gnarly too! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uhEdGbkB2U&t=591s
I think I am done working on transverse mid-engined cars.Such a painful, frustrating experience.
Whoomah!
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