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Thread: Cuda's Cars, v2.0

  1. #961
    Slow and steady progress on the Supra. I found a smoking gun, a vacuum circuit that isn't holding pressure. This circuit is only important for operating the second turbo and doesn't come into play at all when there's <10psi of boost pressure from the first turbo. It adds up in my mind. The problem is getting to the vacuum lines at the back of the engine! I worked on it a few hours yesterday. Today, the main wiring loom comes out...

    The paint is coming along fairly well. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SLdH0lIJTlnTbArr2

  2. #962
    Bad Taste novicius's Avatar
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    Taping up the car, dayum...

  3. #963
    Dead Brand Ambassador dodint's Avatar
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    Car tape? Vince, that you?

  4. #964
    Don't want polish residue on the trim now.

    The main wiring loom didn't actually come out, despite removing everything I could under the passenger foot well. An alternate plan was set in motion.

    Many things have been removed.

    #1 compressor wheel.

    Alright you dirty little bastards... you're mine.

  5. #965
    Bad Taste novicius's Avatar
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    Yeah there's a leak somewhere -- look at all that cooked oil sprayed around there.

    Had to smell when warm, no?

  6. #966
    Dead Brand Ambassador dodint's Avatar
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    What do you use for polish?

    I used to be big into Zaino, I had my red Intrepid polished to the point it looked like glass. Thinking of doing the same to the MINI and maybe the E46 this spring. Takes a claybar, base coat, and then various top coats and other stuff to really get it slippery though.

  7. #967
    I have a few polishes and compounds, as every paint and detail is different and requires test spots to nail down a process. Having said that, Meguiars M205 is a go-to final polish for me. I used to use M105 for compounding but I got sick of how finicky it is and how much haze it leaves behind - requiring a final polish to get the haze out. Nowadays my main compound is Griots Fast Correcting Cream. On my 350Z it finished like a fine polish, so just the one step of FCC was all that was needed. On the Supra, FCC is leaving a slight haze so I'll go back over it with a polish to get more clarity. I'll probably use M205 because I have a ton of it and it's economical. I nearly could get acceptable results with a one-step using Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover which finished out really nicely. It just didn't quite get enough of the RIDS out, I thought. I had to step up to FCC. For polishes I also have Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish, and a couple of samples of different polishes like Menzerna P085RD and BlackFire Polish. I like to use a polish with no fillers, so that I'm sure I have an actual smooth finish.

    The optical clarity all comes from the prep (iron decontamination, clay bar, then compound/polish), the slickness comes from the wax or sealant you put on. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 (...) is very easy to apply and remove and is super slick. The one downside for some is it needs a 12hr cure time out of the elements. I use Meguiars Ultimate Quik Wax as a drying aid half the time when I wash the car, which helps lubricate the panel as I'm drying so there are fewer swirl marks that should start to show up over time. This synthetic wax can be used on trim, glass, etc and really helps keep the slickness and performance of the paint going strong all the time. At least until decontamination is needed again. There are various products that can be used in this way. I'm about to try Opti-Seal next.

    Quote Originally Posted by novicius View Post
    Yeah there's a leak somewhere -- look at all that cooked oil sprayed around there.

    Had to smell when warm, no?
    Yeah the car does. In a really weird way I kind of like the faint smell of old oil caked on a car's mechanical bits. It reminds me of a simpler time, a connection between man and machine. #nostalgic

    My guess is there was a valve cover leak at some point which is what got all the oil there. There was old oil/gunk all over the engine when I took the car home. I've cleaned up a lot of it, obviously this one spot is pretty hard to get to.

    Very little progress today. I got the upper parts of the four vacuum hoses disconnected, the bottom parts are much harder, primarily because the squeezy hose clamps are facing the firewall. I've got 8 or 10 different pliers on the job and none of them are getting it done.

  8. #968
    THE KING IN THE NORTH! TheBenior's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CudaMan View Post
    Yeah the car does. In a really weird way I kind of like the faint smell of old oil caked on a car's mechanical bits. It reminds me of a simpler time, a connection between man and machine. #nostalgic.
    Hah, I've been wondering if the smell from my previous leaky Mazdaspeed3 turbo will ever go away.

  9. #969
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    Bah, I can't edit on mobile.

    Like this
    https://www.australianonlinecarparts...thumbL/203.jpg


    And a set that is straight. Use the straight as a set to hold/stop as a brace on the metal tube you are removing the hose from. Then use the angled stork beak set to pry the hose from the tube. Using the bend as the pivot. This can also be done as reverse, using the stork as the pivot and hold and the straight to apply the pressure to push the hose off.

    Hope it helps.

  10. #970
    Yeah I've got a couple of those angled pliers. Although looking at that picture, that particular set of pliers might be what's needed.

    Couple of tricky parts: #1, there's barely enough room for one set of narrow pliers. #2 these clamps are on the side of the hoses that can't be reached. I'm trying to turn them around or get the exact funny angles going to get pliers behind the hoses.

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