I think the set of duralasts I put on my mothers old escort had that finish.
I think the set of duralasts I put on my mothers old escort had that finish.
I overheated EBC greenstuff pads, so there's your lower quality limit.
Whoomah!
On a Miata?
Maybe when I'm done with my car stuff and my sister is closer to going to the track I'll see if I can whip up a brake package for not too much cash. NAPA rotors and budget friendly track pads that won't suck on the street either. Fluid of course is a given.
I wouldn't have thought plain Duralast brakes would have a fancier finish like that. Interesting. I know this Miata was tracked or autoxed at one point, based on the Koseis, Konis, roll bar and holes drilled for hardtop strikers. The pads on there now are maybe from past that time period in the car's history.
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So earlier tonight I found out there's an autox in Oakland tomorrow and I decided to go. Most likely driving someone else's car. What car to take on the trip? The Miata is new and you always want to drive the shiny new thing, plus it probably gets the best fuel mileage for the trip. But it's not the most comfortable of the fleet for longer trips, and it kinda smells inside (I haven't had a chance to clean it). The maroon Z I'm trying to keep the miles down for selling it (it's at 98k - that sounds a lot better than 100k in an ad), so that's out. Blue Z is comfy and has cruise but needs the battery tied down and wipers installed (just in case), and gets the worst mileage. MR2 is ready to go but I'm sure something else would happen to it on this trip (my luck with that car).
The problem of choice!
At the moment I'm leaning towards the blue Z. Oh and I'd need to install the USDM front corner lens again on the drivers side before leaving.
Yeah, on the Miata. Porterfield R4-S or equivalent should do ok.
Whoomah!
When you were explaining the situation...this is the first thing I thought...Originally Posted by CudaMan
Z problem may have been my laziness not tightening the negative battery terminal when I put it back on...
Today's mystery. Why have the two oil leaks, the power steering leak, and the possible brake fluid leak all gone away? The driveway was dry today after the 320 mile drive that ended at 11:30 last night. This makes no sense.
Am dissatisfied with the dark spots and weird colors of the LED gauge lighting someone put in this car. The pod LEDs were sautered in, instead of the simpler solution of using LEDs with the stock housings. So I suspect the gauge cluster suffered the same fate. This means changing the bulbs again seems too labor intensive. I'm thinking about buying a cluster on eBay and swapping my odometer into it. And finding a good used set of pods with stock lighting. I don't hate LEDs, but the execution in this case is a pretty big fail.
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Cool.Gooder pads put on the to-do list before track time. And thus rotors and fluid.
Eesh... not really into that either. I personally prefer dim cabin illumination so I never really care for LED swaps.
That's atrocious. Not to mention blue is very harsh on the human eye and night vision.
It'd be livable if the lighting was even and I could see the ends of the needles properly.
I partially disassembled and inspected the "pods" today and I need new housings as well as pods with proper lighting. Several eBay transactions later... a gauge cluster, pair of pods and pod housings will be on their way soon. The things I do for this car!
I do like other LEDs in the car - dome light, foot lighting. The HIDs work nicely too.
I won't link it, but I was able to confirm that swapping the odo between gauge clusters isn't a big deal. Nor is, apparently, rolling it back.I thought they were somehow tamper proof. Not that I'd do that anyway.
With luck this will fix my odd coolant temp gauge reading too.
Also ordered new lug nuts. More expensive ones this time (Muteki). Because they don't discolor from what I've heard. My old lug nuts turned gold on the ends (they're supposed to be black).
Just in case I have to replace front tie rod ends...
Ingalls, Moog, or SPD? Only Nissan genuine part I found online was double the price, but also said "kit" in the description... not clear if it's for a pair or just one.
Ball joints are only going to happen if absolutely necessary, due to the cost of replacing entire LCAs.
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