Ain't it a bitch?
Ain't it a bitch?
acket.
Duh. *pokes head* Now that the fault is consistent I can try that again. Will do something shortly and see if the code follows. Interestingly enough the plugs are the same L and R on the HR, but the DE has different ones L to R that prevent swapping sides.Originally Posted by Random
I think that became typical to prevent techs from screwing up. Hey, at least it's not the Volvo where the O2 sensor and knock sensor connectors are the same and right next to each other. Hilarity often ensues.
As I recall there's something very similar to that (maybe even the same thing - I know at least one of the plugs is for the knock sensor) on the 300ZX.
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I think I found the problem.
unplugged.jpg
These connectors don't lock together either, which seems odd to me. I have a feeling I stretched this wire loom a little taught and during high load maneuvers or bumps (or someone I know sweeping (a) cone(s) under the car) it came loose. Roadtrip to Camarillo tonight and we'll see if it stays put and codes stay away.
Zip tie the connector together.
Those connectors should lock - if they don't, they're broken. Zip ties definitely work in a pinch!
I'd think they should lock but they feel different than other electrical plugs. They don't have a firm "click" into place like others do (resistance and suddenly "we're in!"). These gradually get more resistance as they come together until you think, yeah, that's enough, they're not going any further. Never any click.
So over the weekend all was fine for the drive down and about halfway through the autox (24 runs total). Then P0037 cropped up. Same code as before but on the opposite side (Bank 1 instead of Bank 2). This one has come back on 2 or 3 times after clearing codes, too. Checking today, everything's still plugged in. And I remain befuddled.
I would think that when the Bank 2 rear sensor is completely unplugged from the chassis harness, I'd get multiple codes or a more serious code from the ECU because it should be seeing no feedback at all. Now that the sensor is plugged in again the code moves to the other side even though it has been plugged in this whole time... it makes me think it's a mysterious ground problem, again.
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It's a little early to call but it appears the car may be rapidly wearing the insides of other front tires too. This may be bugging my thoughts for a while too - everything up front I can think of is either new or not broken/worn as far as I can tell.
- Same upper A-arms as the old car (bushings cleaned and re-greased, none felt undersized to me).
- Front wheel bearings are only a couple of years old.
- All 6 control arm bushings are new Megan Racing parts (harder rubber)
- Can't detect any tie rod play.
- No clunks up front.
- Zero toe.
- Car drives really well on the street. Front does wander in ruts but that's normal sports car behavior IME especially with stiff springs and lots of camber.
The only other thing that comes to mind is the steering - it's lighter effort on the new car compared to the old one, and the new car feels like it has less castor. [Castor angle is not adjustable on these cars]. Those two things can go hand in hand. When near full steering lock, like in a parking lot, the new car will sometimes either not have any centering force or will even turn the steering wheel more as I creep along.
As if anyone needed any additional proof that RPF1s look good on everything:
When are you selling the other car? And any idea on how much?
Still no idea, heh. Local market seems not great for Zs, especially early ones, but most here are pretty ragged too. I have a couple local people who have expressed interest. Going to be replacing a wheel bearing this week, looks like. Anyway, my estimate has been anywhere from $7k to $10k, and at the moment it looks like it'll serve DD duty for a while. Two to six months, maybe more. Need more money for the DD I think I want - about $12k perhaps.
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