Novi's Proletariat Garage

[21Kid]

:lol:

I don't have a car. :(

[novicius]

Obviously Kid wins in the crotchal region. :lol: #again

[thesameguy]

I'm okay with Kid winning... but am a little concerned about the #again.

[novicius]

*ziiip*

::

A kid in an obviously boosted Mazdaspeed6 rolled up on me at the lights tonight. Huge FMIC, BOV, big mufflers, lowered and tinted on aftermarket wheels. Looked really nice.

Ready to have my doors blown off, I ham it up, got on the loud pedal and gave him the "y'wanna go??" eyes. The lights went green, I stabbed the accelerator up into bovine mating call levels -- and watched as he shot off.

I just rolled up to the speed limit as usual, grinning. Hey, I had my baby boy with me! :D #excuses

[Kchrpm]

You're such a troll.

[novicius]

Yep I trolled him good with my lil' 260 HP. :hard:

[21Kid]

Still fun. It's funny when the po-po pulls you over with the boy in the back. Happened to me a few times when Ali was little. :D They didn't really have a reason, other than OMG, he must be a racer!

Ali loved it when I hit the turbo. ;) Which is obviously voice-controlled by little ones saying "Go!"

[novicius]

"Just" rolled 140K miles sometime this Spring, looks like. 750ish miles ago.

I mean that could've been last Fall I suppose. :lol:

[George]

...got on the loud pedal...

I'm still finding my way, but I think "A+ would read again" is the correct 21st century reply to this. :up:

[novicius]

Heh, my auto insurance has dropped every quarter that I've owned the Bananastang: down to $73 USD a month (full comp & collision; State Farm).

Considering MY record, this is stellar. :lol: :up:

[novicius]

TSG, somebody HAS built up an eBay turbocharged junkyard 2V:

Low-Buck Turbo Ford - 592HP 4.6L 2V Motor For $2,298 (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1105-592hp-46l-2v-motor-for-2298/)

Of course at this power level, the 2V is gonna collapse. :lol:

[Kchrpm]

Which gives you a perfect excuse for an LS swap :D

[novicius]

Whoops, talking out my ass again -- from what I've read, common consensus is that the 2V internals can't handle beyond 450ish crank HP.

But apparently the powdered metal connecting rods in most truck LS's (even the little 4.8L) can handle 700 to 900 horse or even more boosted horsepower (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1109-stock-gm-ls-engine-big-bang-theory/). But they still tore the LS down to put in beefier gaskets and studs so it's not like it's truly "bonestock". :finger:

[speedpimp]

Heh, my auto insurance has dropped every quarter that I've owned the Bananastang: down to $73 USD a month (full comp & collision; State Farm).

Considering MY record, this is stellar. :lol: :up:

The FiST runs me $86/mo. through SF.

[novicius]

Very cool -- you drive (or have driven) for a living, when was your last speeding ticket and/or accident, Rich?

[TheBenior]

FWIW, Rich's rates are only about $10/month more than I paid through SF for my Mazdaspeed3 when I lived in a higher-theft-rate neighborhood, as opposed to my current area, which is the lowest-crime zip code in Chicago. A combination of that and a garage dropped my motorcycle insurance by 40% :eek:

That was with no tickets since college, and my last claim being hail damage from ~2010, not to mention the MS3 always had lower rates than the quotes I got on similar cars like the GTI and WRX.

[speedpimp]

Very cool -- you drive (or have driven) for a living, when was your last speeding ticket and/or accident, Rich?

My last speeding ticket was Jan '11(51 in a 45). Last accident was Aug '15, got rear ended by a soccer mom paying too much attention to her phone. Last accident that was my fault? Apr. '89.

[novicius]

Yeah that's cleaner than mine, Rich! ;)


FWIW, Rich's rates are only about $10/month more than I paid through SF for my Mazdaspeed3 when I lived in a higher-theft-rate neighborhood...
So I am paying the same monthly as you did for your MS3?

Makes sense; my undesirable V8 shitbox should probably be rated lower if not for my record.

[TheBenior]

That, and I'm guessing that Mustangs are more likely to be spun into telephone poles/trees/car show crowds/etc.

[novicius]

Funny AND factually correct! :lol: :up:

[novicius]

Sweet Jeebus you guys, how come nobody pitched the most obvious license plate idea:

LMONPTY

:lol:

[Kchrpm]

Because we're not disgusting animals.

[21Kid]

Lemon Potty?

[thesameguy]

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=lemonparty

[21Kid]

So, like the other two referenced, I shouldn't look this one up either, right?

[novicius]

Because we're not disgusting animals.
Hey now, don't judge. :lol:

Still leaning towards YLLO AF. Just can't settle on anything else at the moment.

[Kchrpm]

So, like the other two referenced, I shouldn't look this one up either, right?

Nope!

[thesameguy]

So, like the other two referenced, I shouldn't look this one up either, right?

You can take a humorous shortcut and watch the movie Hit and Run, with Dax Shepard and Kristen Bell.

[21Kid]

I think I saw that movie... or parts of it. It was so bad, I don't remember much. That scene was funny though.

[novicius]

Getting chased down by a buddy.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7364/27251799545_b81c92da13_b.jpg

His FJ is fairly serious. Lifted, intake & exhaust. Aftermarket rims and some painted bits. Looks and sounds good. :up:

(Also we were at a stoplight. (https://goo.gl/maps/85AnHMwRPR62))

[21Kid]

My boss has a FJ. They're fun. I'd rather have one of those than a Wrangler.

[novicius]

It's definitely more year-round worthy than a Wrangler -- also a better ride than the two-door Wrangler.

You can see that he painted this side mirrors black vs the stock silver.

[novicius]

Coming back to the Wheel Game, I'm thinking about these 18" FR500's. 9" wide shoe in front, 10" wide in the rear.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rh7vHYFLqmg/UgJvI7C2D_I/AAAAAAAAQIQ/sVquVZfZdv4/w640-h400-p-k/2OE1I.jpg

Trying to figure out if this pic is a repaint... that shade of yellow *might* be Screaming Yellow but AFAIK that shade was only offered on the Cobra.

[thesameguy]

Lazy Oaf Lounge looks choice!

[21Kid]

HDR yellow? I like the rims.

[novicius]

Yep there's some post-prod work on the pic, sure -- but the standard Mustang GT (and much more pale) Zinc Yellow would never mix to a saturation with that much orange in it... :erm:

Dammit, I think I'm wrong again. Still looking at pics but it's tough to get the shade right due to different lighting and people's post-production work.

Basically Ford alternates between a pale yellow and a more orangish yellow. My guess is that this car is the latter and just got bleached in Photoshop.

[21Kid]

:lol: You're thinking about it too much.

[novicius]

Definitely. :angry:

[novicius]

I am still thinking about what look or classic touches I'd want to go with -- that ISN'T all Boss 302 louvers and wings and shit.

Maybe a spoiler-delete and C-stripe?

http://13252-presscdn-0-94.pagely.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/1968_Ford_Mustang_Trans_Am_SCCA_Race_Car_Rear_1.jp g

[thesameguy]

With the right front end it could work, but you gotta go to extra pains to make the spoiler delete work right on New Edge cars. C-stripe I think can work, but I'd also be cautious about too much blacknyella. Adornment overkill.

[novicius]

Yeah the C-Stripe idea is the first thing to hit the cutting room floor. :smh: :up:

Thoughts on this Cobra-inspired spoiler for non-Cobra cars?

http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/Turn5/388987-00?$prodpg640x480$

[thesameguy]

I really like that spoiler and have no issue on Ford hi-po bits on non-hi-po cars. There is zero wrong with plays from Ford's playbook. As long as your solution doesn't include a COBRA rear fascia with COBRA in black and Calvin pissing on something, it's all good. ;)

[novicius]

:lol: :up:

Well its all just daydreaming anyway. My (tiny) monthly budget is going to be spent on all new brake hardware, H&R Supersport springs, no-name shocks & struts, camber bolts and H&R adaptors for the rear wheels. That should tie me up for a year.

Then the rims need to be sandblasted and painted just in time for tires... #neverends

[thesameguy]

I think it might be too late, but Koni's spring sale is a great time to buy suspension. You can hit up Red Shift Motorsports and they will give you a serious discount. Koni's 20% plus RSM's discount yielded shocks & struts at about half of what Tirerack had them for. Chris is good people - I would at least email him.

http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Shock-Value-Sale-2016/

http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/

Edit: Can you use aircraft stripper on the wheels? The result is gross mess, but it's a lot cheaper than blasting. ;) If it comes to blasting, check Craigslist. Someone pointed out to me that you can find mobile media blasting people on CL for cheap. Just put down a tarp, dude comes by with a truck and hits 'em for a few bucks. ;)

[novicius]

Thanks for the referral! :D :up:

[TheBenior]

I think that sale is what pushed me into getting Koni Yellow shocks and struts instead of Bilstein on the Mazdaspeed3 when a rear was leaking for the second time in less than 35k miles.

[novicius]

Fair warning Ross -- but I am on pace to put only 6-8K miles annually so money talks...

...unless shocks begin to leak from disuse?

[TheBenior]

It was the factory rears that were leaking. I had a set that was replaced under warranty around 12k miles.

The general consensus is that the stock shocks/struts on MS3s are an obvious example of cost-cutting in terms of both damping and durability. Of course, driving to New Orleans and back with my car ~100lbs over the GVWR probably didn't help with the warranty replacement set's lifespan.

The Konis are holding up fine after 15k miles of crap Chicago streets.

[novicius]

Still waiting on my new title for the Daytona from the WI DMV. :smh:

Once I have it and that bike is sold, I will order my H&R Supersport springs and Koni dampers. In the meantime, my double-digit expense from last month finally arrived:

https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7601/26920769934_539dd14612_b.jpg

H&R 1.25" Adaptors for the rear wheels. :hard:

Not a great deal -- used, $70 shipped -- but still within my self-imposed budget.

[novicius]

Still waiting on my new title for the Daytona from the WI DMV. :smh:
:angry:

I took the Streety for a spin last Saturday morning and hit the DMV, fully intent on just BUYING A COPY of my title. But the girl jockeying the desk said my lein release & new title have been processed and that I "should" receive the title this week.

Heh. Next time I'm caught in this situation, I'm just going to sell the vehicle with the lein release and let the next guy deal with it. :thppt:

[thesameguy]

The only bad bit about that plan is the rare scenario where you lose the lien release. If that happens, you can have a devil of a time getting a replacement title. If you're good with paperwork, no big, but if you're my girl, it's gonna be an issue at some point. :smh:

[novicius]

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/CobraTerritory/f215f89e-2330-44f2-9fdf-5728d63c0c82_zps5543fcea.jpg

Bright Atlantic Blue looks good. :cool: (I will update the hotlink tonight in case it disappears.)

::

In other news, I've been searching for information on Shelby's "Terlingua Racing Team" cars. Terlingua was a patch of sun-blazed "town" that he and another guy came to own (probably on a bet).

Imagine a GTX party in the desert with a lot more alcohol, drugs, sex-workers (imported or BYOB), dirt bikes, dune buggies, impromptu bets, pranks, tea-bagging, kink toys, flamethrowers, etc. A precursor to Burning Man basically.

The TRT was a running gag for the Shelby Rat Pack hooligans that circulated through various racing events. TRT stickers have found their way onto cars racing all over -- Spa, LeMans, Laguna Seca, etc.

The first "official" TRT race car was a '67 Mustang GT Trans-Am car painted in "Godawful Yellow". :lol:

::

Heh, for the deep-pocketed amongst you, Shelby American is offering 50 2015-2016 Shelby Terlingua Racing Team Mustang GT's. (http://www.shelby.com/?topic=vehicles&art=Terlingua)

[21Kid]

So... GTX-RT :? Sounds like you may be onto something...

:devil:

[Drachen596]

Not like there isnt a pro driver and a bunch of good drivers wandering this message board.

[novicius]

I hear ya but I don't own a chicken farm. :lol:

[21Kid]

...yet

[Drachen596]

Can you get one of those in the land of dairy products?

[thesameguy]

Imagine a GTX party in the desert with a lot more alcohol, drugs, sex-workers (imported or BYOB), dirt bikes, dune buggies, impromptu bets, pranks, tea-bagging, kink toys, flamethrowers, etc. A precursor to Burning Man basically.

So....

I had not heard of this but a friend sent it to me the other day.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzmrAtIo0OA


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZ1LmeuDKnY

And I think it needs to be a GTX. The friend that sent it to me has a 1972 Dodge-based Class A RV with all the RV removed. It's a cab and a floor. I think that and 10 seats and Gambler 500.

[novicius]

:lol: :up:

...and when it breaks down, that's when & where the party starts?? ;) #lol

::

Just looked at 1999-2004 Mustang V8's on the ol' Craiggers -- I still can't touch a GT (either stick or auto) with my miles or less for under $6700. Even after a year-and-a-half I still can't beat the deal I found. #lol #yellowmakesitcheap

[thesameguy]

Exactly! I think it still has the generator, so we can bring a fridge. It still has the rear-mount propane tank and trailer hitch, so hitch mount BBQ is easy too. Who doesn't want to party naked in the woods with shitty cars flying by? (COMMUNISTS, THAT'S WHO!)

[Drachen596]

Naked in the woods partying geys you mistaken for a witch or satanist. Oh and mosquito bits in terrible places.

[thesameguy]

I think all that is legal in Oregon though.

[Godson]

Naked in the woods partying geys you mistaken for a witch or satanist. Oh and mosquito bits in terrible places.



No bites if you build a big enough fire...

[thesameguy]

Wonder what the legality of a fire pit on a bare RV chassis is....

[novicius]

:lol: :up:

Cut the roof off? Buy a boat and mount it on top? Do some crazy shit! :D

[thesameguy]

It already has no roof. It's just the floor!

[novicius]

Suspension components are a god-damned rabbit's hole. :smh:

[thesameguy]

Which one?

[21Kid]

15 year old cars are a god-damned rabbit's hole. :smh:
FTFY ;)

[novicius]

Age of the car isn't the problem, Kid -- '79 through '04 Mustangs all have these geometry issues. :lol:

So I just want to settle on a "Stage 1" of refreshing/lowering the Bananastang's suspension. But every part impacts the geometry and requires a new dependent part or kit to stop wear & tear -- which then requires another attendant set of parts or kit, etc.

Basically my choice is either a monster shopping list (aka a monster bill) or a self-sabotaging stopgap that I'll only end up ripping out in a few years anyway. :smh:

[21Kid]

Drive it till it breaks. :p




Then replace it all.

[thesameguy]

Why fret over the Bananastang? You're not going to take it to your grave, and you don't seem to be racking up the miles where a little abnormal wear is going to hurt you. Get a little moar low through conventional means and then enjoy it. Eventually you'll tire of it, and you can move on to a different car with more modern suspension that won't be quite the same Herculean task to get just so. I may be barking up the wrong tree, but I don't get the sense this car was all that aspirational for you, why waste time & money on perfecting the unperfectable? Save your efforts and your cash for something you really, truly are in love with!

[novicius]

Yep I'm resigned to lowering it cheap since it's not a daily.

Besides, love costs money! I'm not willing to spend that kind of cash anymore! :lol:

EDIT: Also-also, I pretty much am stuck with this car! :lol: :lol: :lol: Even if I got my money out of it, $6K isn't gonna buy anything faster or with a more complete/cheaper/comprehensive aftermarket. THIS. IS. IT. #mybed #sleepinginit

[thesameguy]

Well, that's the right answer if you ask me. :)

I can definitely get behind academically right answers, but doing the right thing for a car you're not totally in love with doesn't make sense to me. Save those pennies for an S197 or something!

[novicius]

No, the only other Mustang I love is the Cobra R -- which, for a non-lottery winner like myself means a 1999/2001 SVT Mustang Cobra.

But again, I don't want to spend even that money. Cue images of a tiny Daffy Duck curled around a small pearl. #snark

[novicius]

Drive it till it breaks. :p
Pretty much what I've been doing -- best ROI. :up:

[novicius]

MMR Bumpsteer Kit & camber bolts ordered.

[Godson]

No, the only other Mustang I love is the Cobra R -- which, for a non-lottery winner like myself means a 1999/2001 SVT Mustang Cobra.

But again, I don't want to spend even that money. Cue images of a tiny Daffy Duck curled around a small pearl. #snark

Svt is good to drive, but cost compared to others, you can find better cars easily.

[novicius]

Absolutely agree -- but nonetheless I want one. ;)

(...just don't want to pay for one!)

[CudaMan]

The horse has already left the barn I see, but you could always refresh without lowering and not worry about the chain reaction of upgrades. There are a few good things you can do to most sport/sporty cars at stock ride height that will still improve handling/grip. For a daily/fun car, that's a good direction I think. Ask me how often I enjoy turning around when I see a speedbump or steep driveway. :lol: Stock ride height is faster point-to-point on the street, no doubt. My Juke was a rocket in the urban jungle. ;)

[novicius]

Yeah parts are on the way already. The stock 4x4 ride height has definitely saved me more than once, true -- but it looks horrid and driving it like this is painful. Needs sorting no matter what.

I am looking forward to having a solid, marginally corrected Moostang, it's just that the shopping list is dauting. ;)

[novicius]

My plates came in.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8164/28974827202_172fce5fe3_b.jpg

Obscure but I like 'em. :lol:

Maximum Motorsports sez the H&R Supersport springs are on backorder. I should probably shop around. #shrug #lol

[thesameguy]

I hate to even suggest it, but have you checked on stangnet and the corral and such for some used options? I wouldn't hesitate to save the cash on used springs.

I can't believe you got that plate! :lol:

[novicius]

Nah it's fine -- I probably should. Just sketchy trying to verify that they'd actually be Supersports.

[thesameguy]

Yeah, that's definitely an issue unless they have clear identifying marks.

Did you try tirerack and/or autoanything? Occasionally the latter has some pretty unusual discounts that help.

[novicius]

Yeah they're the same $230ish price all over so I figured I'd throw my cash to Maximum Motorsports.

[thesameguy]

Well. Shit. :D

[novicius]

The other thing is that I've never seen low priced popular components on my FB Used Mustang Parts pages. Never seen Cobra calipers for sale, never seen 31-spline rear diffs with 4.10's for sale, and I have never seen H&R Supersports for sale. #shrug

People just sell what they don't use: stock GT brakes & suspension bits and carriers with 3.73's in 'em... which is funny in and of itself: seems like most guys want more gear but are initially afraid of going 4.10's.

So they get the 3.73's and then are unsatisfied after a year. :lol:

[novicius]

Was a no-good punk today in the 'Stang: drove downtown to the UW-Madison campus to meet up with my cousin & his fiancé for some brunch. Parking was choked so I cruised up and down a few blocks looking for a space.

A woman was getting into her old Camry so I pulled up behind her and put my blinker on. She didn't move and jist sat behind the wheel on her phone. I waited a polite 5 minutes before rolling up to motion her and see if she was going to leave.

She looks at me and shakes her head emphatically "No." I roll my eyes, say "Thanks for not giving me ANY sign whatsoever!" (to myself; her window was rolled up) -- and blip the throttle angrily before pulling away.

The very loud bark from the straightpipes activated the alarm in the parked car in front of her. :lol: So she got to enjoy that cacaphony of car horns for 2 or 3 minutes. #agentofkarma #dickmoves

[Godson]

:lol: ace move.

[thesameguy]

I think that would have been prime opportunity to pull a super trooper.

[novicius]

A very clean 2011-2014 Mustang V6 Premium M6 car w/. Performance Pack for $10K, that is what I want.

Something like this. (http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=431738913) :cool:

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8227/29057927894_686c06494f_z.jpg

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8406/29393733530_9fa26b0cfa_z.jpg

But I've got years before the average price of these drops down so I will keep polishing my turd. :lol:

[thesameguy]

Wax on, wax off.

[TheBenior]

Given that 2/3rds of my commute is highway, something like that would make sense for me. Fun while slightly improving fuel economy over my Mazdaspeed3 (a rated 19/29 mpg vs 18/26 mpg, and I average 21/22 mpg).

Edit: With the same caveat as you on price. That's only $5k less than the msrp of a loaded FiST, before you factor in the current offer of $1750 bonus cash and 0% for 72 months.

[novicius]

That sounds good -- plus that interior is *phenomenal* for any Mustang, much less a V6! :up: :up:

[Godson]

Yeah. The interior on newer Ford's is impressive.

I sat FiST the ms3 Ross.

[TheBenior]

Yeah. The interior on newer Ford's is impressive.
I feel that Ford and Mazda are doing the nice interiors and decent driving feel thing that used to be VW's forte before they ruined their image with a generation of customers with A4 Jetta/Golf/Beetle and B5 Passat reliability.


I sat FiST the ms3 Ross.

Or, for 5 months worth of payments, I could get a built K04 installed and tuned in my MS3 which only has 53k on the engine and not have car payments on 2.5 cars.

[Godson]

Ruiner of fun ;)

[21Kid]

But... Shiny!!! New!!!


Aren't you getting sick of the MS3? :finger:

[KillerB]

Most used cars are not good deals and have not been for quite some time. We're still dealing with the combined effects of C4C pulling a lot of old metal off the roads, combined with several years of lowish production (~10 million cars per year vs ~17 million per year before and after the recession). Demand continues to outstrip supply, especially for cars that aren't heavy on leasing.

Meanwhile, new car production is humming and the automakers seem to be willing to put a lot of incentives out there to keep it that way. We're not just talking the Big 3, either - the big Japanese players are putting cash on the hood, and everyone seems to be offering ridiculous lease deals. IMO, it's hard to justify a used purchase at this point, unless you're looking at an out-of-production model or something in the 10-year-old range.

...and don't get me started on the collector car bubble. If I'd spent what I spent on my Challenger on an 84-89 911 Carrera 3.2 in 2011 instead, I'd have a car I could sell for $15k-30k more than I paid for it. Ferrari 308s and air-cooled 911s are just the worst examples, but I'm seeing all kinds of cars shoot way up in value. Good Integra Type-Rs are now $35k+ cars.

If what you like hasn't gotten crazy yet, buy while you can. I'm hoping this bubble doesn't reach RX-7s before I've got a bigger garage next year. :(

[Godson]

Yeah. 80's fezzas are there most frustrating side of it. 308s used to be 30k at a dealer. Red heads were 40-50k. Those same cars are now 75-90+

[novicius]

Mmm, that's the stuff.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8419/29238420234_1ff3a7e641_b.jpg

[thesameguy]

Poor thing! What happened to it's spoiler. I am okay with scarification, but mutilation pushes my bounds!

[novicius]

I can't help it -- I see pics of Bullitt Mustangs and I just can't shake the desire for that clean look.

Spoiler delete and 18" Saleens? Take me to bed and lose me forever! :lol:

[21Kid]

I'm not a fan either, sorry. It looks like it's missing something. ;)

[novicius]

Ok. :)

I dig it but I'm not gonna do it. I certainly don't trust myself to tackle filling in the holes and painting the trunk lid, and the money I'd pay a body shop needs to be spent elsewhere on this hooptie. :lol:

But maaan do I like the look. :cool:

::

Speaking of spending money, the last thing to buy to lower the Bananastang are the shocks. After much reading, I'm gonna go for the Bilstein HD's over the Koni Yellows. Goes better with my supa-slammed H&R springs, apparently.

[thesameguy]

Both are a quality part, so assuming the valving meets your needs you should be dandy!

[Godson]

I prefer the sn95 without the O'Reillys special wing

[novicius]

:up: :up:

Tyler, you need to heal up so you can drive up here and help me thrash on this suspension over a weekend this winter! :D

[Godson]

Werd. My newest steed can make the trip in one tank of fuel.

[novicius]

:hard:

I'll let you know when it's happening in January sometime. See if you are feeling up to it. ;)

[Godson]

Mebe.

[novicius]

Uncle Jimbo's corn cob pipe!! Check this build thread out if you've got a day free! (http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?935474-Terminated-Bullitt) :lol:

Apparently a '94-'98 30mm front sway bar is a great match for the '03-'04 IRS... ;)

[21Kid]

:hard:

I'll let you know when it's happening in January sometime. See if you are feeling up to it. ;)

Maybe in February? ;)

[novicius]

Nah, gotta be done and rolling by then. ;) #ready2roar

[novicius]

I tried to take a pic tonight that most clearly showed the RICOCKULOUS amount of wheel gap I'm dealing with prior to installing the springs & dampers:

https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5694/29345061854_80fbda8ae5_b.jpg

Mission accomplished. :lol:

[novicius]

Speaking of spending money, the last thing to buy to lower the Bananastang are the shocks. After much reading, I'm gonna go for the Bilstein HD's over the Koni Yellows. Goes better with my supa-slammed H&R springs, apparently.
Sweet Christmas! Finally came across someone selling a used set of Bilstein HD's (and dust covers) on my FB Mustang Parts pages. 10K mIles on 'em (allegedly). $350 shipped vs $750ish new.

Let's see if I get sca-rewed!! :lol: #paymentsent

[thesameguy]

As long as they were properly stored, you should be fine! And, I think Bilstein will still rebuild their HDs for $100 ea, so even if they aren't perfect you have options down the road. You should be fine!

[novicius]

:up: :up:

Good to know! I think I need *one* more element -- Steeda X-2 ball joints (http://www.americanmuscle.com/stx2bajokit.html). #takin4eva

[thesameguy]

Oh man, those BJs look like the ones on the Jeep that are a pain to replace. Not looking forward to that job, but you're right, don't take the front end apart without replacing ball joints. You'll just end up back there and regretting you didn't do it all at once! Are bushings part of your update plan?

[novicius]

Depends on their condition -- I'm not making an autox warrior, I just want to drop it without grinding my tires into dust.

EDIT: It does look like these Steeda Offset Bushings (http://www.americanmuscle.com/steering-offset.html)would help reduce bumpsteer tho'. Cheap price, so sure why not? :)

[thesameguy]

My personal opinion is that if you're taking the LCAs off for ball joints, you should at least replace the LCA bushings. Factory parts are probably quite cheap and there's no better time to do them. Swaybar, etc. is less important time-wise, but do what you can to the LCA while it's off to minimize labor costs and avoid having to redo an alignment. Maybe consider tie rod ends while you're there.

IMHO, for a DD, I'd throw $180 to Moog and get BJs ($60), tie rods ($80), LCA bushings ($40) vs $140 just for Steeda BJs. I don't know what they bring to the table, but actual 2x performance vs. Moog seems... unlikely. :D

[novicius]

Ok sounds sensible -- I'll do some more searching. :up: :up:

#rabbithole :D

[thesameguy]

I gotta say that I deeply sympathize with your situation - when I did the front end of the Fiero every fiber of my body wanted to order all the special parts because it's just not that much money, but as a percentage the price premium was more than double. IIRC it was $110 for me to rebuild with Moog/TRW (stock) parts and just over $250 for all the custom stuff. I ended with no matter how hard I push the poor plasticar, the street is not where I am going to realize the benefits of all the special bits. As it turned out, the car is way more competent than I can use in anything approaching a safe manner so I I'm happy I saved the Benjamin. Ironically, that's $100 I should be used to buy a track day. ;) :lol: I think I am embarrassed about the racket the 3.4pr makes... I will be more proud of it when it sounds a little less '80s GM exhaust leaky. ;)

[novicius]

True and I *do* want to keep it cheap > performance -- I just did a quick search on those ball joints, I had read some time back that I'm gonna need a new set. #shrug

I really would like to re-use as many components as possible and only upgrade those band-aids as needed. I don't need a tubular K-member / five-link rear-end / T-56 six-speed / bolt-in Cobra IRS or any of that fancy shit. Just want it somewhat geometrically true low 'n' rumbly, :cool: #lowNslow

[thesameguy]

The stuff I DD makes a New Edge Mustang seem like a new car, and I'm not having any shortage of fun or ability. I think any performance-oriented car made in the last 30 years that has a good "stage 0" and quality rubber on the ground is not going to leave anyone wanting for more capability on the street, even if you're pushing it pretty hard. My experience is that people tend to forget that most old cars were new and impressive once and - especially with domestics - it doesn't cost that much to get them back there. Sometimes I catch myself being blown away by how much even the Falcon is capable of - and I can tell by the incredulous looks of Camry drivers they are too. :lol: The old adage of "better to drive a slow car fast" applies, and it's ultimately why I don't have newer cars. I'm much happier knowing I wrung 80% of the XR4Ti than regretting that common sense and concern for others capped the Solstice at 30% and I might never see the other 70% I paid for. ;) I can't quite buy into low & slow yet, but I can't shake the growing feeling I want to give it a try. A slammed Cressida wagon without a turbo swap might do me just fine. :D

[Godson]

66 continental is my low and slow option.

[novicius]

:D :up:

[Kchrpm]

Reasonable things
Lalalalala not listening!

[novicius]

The old adage of "better to drive a slow car fast" applies, and it's ultimately why I don't have newer cars.
Yep, likewise! I'm just a civilian -- every day of my life I've obviously chosen to drive a slow bike/car fast. :lol:

[novicius]

18" Bullitts?

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2086&stc=1
Or 18" Magnum 500s?

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2085&stc=1

[Kchrpm]

Bullitts by a small margin.

[novicius]

I figure it's a small margin either way -- they're both retro-style wheels so that alone might garner more hate than individual style.

My thought process is that there are 2 strikes against the 18" Bullitts right now: the Bananastang came with 17" Bullitts (plastidipped black, heh) and Bullitts are so common on the New Edge cars. But I do love the look so it's still a very viable option.

Heh, arguably a 3rd strike might be that since I have a BRIGHT yellow car, I need some bright wheels to balance out the look. Ergo the 18" Magnums (which I also love due to the Mach 1 connection). :up:

[thesameguy]

I really don't care for the Magnums on New Edge cars (or, maybe at all :lol:) so I'd say Bullitts.

Really though I don't think I'd go quite so retro. I really prefer a more contemporary look

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a327/Swiss026/driftwheels2.jpg (http://s14.photobucket.com/user/Swiss026/media/driftwheels2.jpg.html)

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p176/ranger2339/brostang-1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e314/trx250rkid/Kyle03_zps4c8edcdb.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/trx250rkid/media/Kyle03_zps4c8edcdb.jpg.html)

http://i45.tinypic.com/10pqag4.jpg

The last one is a little non-traditional as far as wheels go, but Google Image search assures me it's a New Edge Mustang Wheel.

[21Kid]

:up:

[novicius]

I'm too fat & old for any of those rims (or her)! :lol: :up:

[thesameguy]

All the more reason to get some Drag or Enkei or slightly underweight girl now. You're going to want to ease into it, rather that wake up in five years and shock the world. Never age out, that way you don't have to crisis back in.

[novicius]

Yeah but that's the thing -- to me retro rims say "I'm fast for a car from the '70s". :cool:

Modern BBS-style meshies to me shout "I'M AS FAST AS A C7 / M4 / VIPER, BRO!!" Waaay too loud of a bark for the pitiful bite the Bananastang has. :lol:

[thesameguy]

I get that, but I think if you really think about it, BBS-style meshies say "I'm as fast as an '82 533i," which is kind of a low bar. ;)

Retro-style wheels actually say "If you close your eyes and just listen, you'll think I'm as fast as a '69 Cobra Jet."

:up:

[novicius]

...but I am as fast as a production-issue '69 Cobra Jet 428 Mustang on polyglas tires!! :lol:

(1/4 mile, sec @ mph: 14.01 @ 101 (http://musclecars.howstuffworks.com/classic-muscle-cars/1968-ford-mustang-428-cobra-jet.htm))

[thesameguy]

Oh.

Well, snap.

:lol:

[novicius]

:lol: :up:

People forget how slow muscle cars really were.

Ignore the horsepower ratings, a bonestock production mallrat New Edge ('99-'04) Mustang GT will clock the quarter in a very low 14-seconds, faster than the vaunted '88-'89 Mustang LX 5.0L. Certainly as fast as most of the big block muscle cars of the '60s & '70s, thanks mainly to tire tech in that case. But ever since the Speed Wars began in earnest in '93 (when Chevy dropped the LT1 into the Z28 and began diving deep into the 13's), a 14+ quarter mile is considered slow.

King of the Streets in the '80s, slow as melting dog shit in the '90s and beyond. Comparatively speaking, a shiny new '69 Mustang GT 302-2V four-speed car was turning snorty mid 16-second quarter-miles. #shrug

[thesameguy]

So, what, my Fiero isn't fast?

:P

[Godson]

:lol: :up:

People forget how slow muscle cars really were.

Ignore the horsepower ratings, a bonestock production mallrat New Edge ('99-'04) Mustang GT will clock the quarter in a very low 14-seconds, faster than the vaunted '88-'89 Mustang LX 5.0L. Certainly as fast as most of the big block muscle cars of the '60s & '70s, thanks mainly to tire tech in that case. But ever since the Speed Wars began in earnest in '93 (when Chevy dropped the LT1 into the Z28 and began diving deep into the 13's), a 14+ quarter mile is considered slow.

King of the Streets in the '80s, slow as melting dog shit in the '90s and beyond. Comparatively speaking, a shiny new '69 Mustang GT 302-2V four-speed car was turning snorty mid 16-second quarter-miles. #shrug

Comical point.

My F150 is faster than most of these cars....

[novicius]

Oh yeah, if I had wanted to go fast I would've bought a Camry. :assclown:

[TheBenior]

I think I've said it before, but when I drive my CX-5 after a week of only driving my Mazdaspeed3 and riding my Monster 696, the CX-5 feels reaaaallly slow.

However the 0-60 time of high 7s and high 15s in the quarter is what automatic Japanese V6 sedans were running when I was in high school in the mid-to-late 1990s.

[novicius]

Yep and that's quick by '70s & '80s standards. :lol:

Now a '16 Mustang GT will deliver 13.0xx in the quarter and the new Camaro SS is a mid 12-second car right off the showroom floor!

[Random]

I like the Bullitts. Yeah, everyone and their Mom runs them, but that's because they look good. :P

[thesameguy]

Could also be that this is America, and everyone is old and fat.

HA!

(But I do agree 18" Bullitts look good :up:)

[Godson]

Bullits are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa y over done.

Do something different.

[novicius]

I'd like to -- hence the Magnum 500's.

But sets of deep-dish 18" Bullitts are common, cheap and frequently available used. So since money talks... I'll probably end up on Bullitts. :D

eBay is showing about $115/wheel right now for 18x9/18x10 reps (well frankly they're all reps at this size). Decent price -- but I'm sure my used parts groups can beat that. #patience

[Godson]

What about the sport edition ST7?

Lightweight, and I think they'd look nice.




Side note, holy shit mustang wheels are heavy fuckers. No offerings under 20lbs for an 18x8

[novicius]

Too modern looking. I don't need to roll around acting like I'm some sort of HPDE Instructor. :lol:

[CudaMan]

about $115/wheel right now

Have you looked at XXRs? You'd have to do your research on offsets but they're about that price and some look pretty good. They're not the lightest wheels for their size, but you're not going to get light cheap 18" wheels unless you go used RPF1, pretty much. :)

www.nlmotoring.com has a bunch. I like our 531s (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/158782283/original) a lot, although at 27lbs for 18x11" they're a bit of a bear to mount/dismount every month. This particular style also requires narrow lug nuts with a thin key due to their smaller lug holes.

Having said all this, you totally can't go wrong with Bullitt wheels on a 'Stang, IMO. :up:

[novicius]

Well the XXR's look damn sharp but $600 for a set of four 18" XXR's is a bit dear. Also they're a bit aggro for my tastes. ;)

For $420 I could get a new flashy set of 18" VISION TORQUE wheels (https://www.carid.com/vision-wheels/torque-gunmetal-machined-9070448.html):

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2090&stc=1

Another $70 gets me spinner center caps! :lol:

But even $400 is too much to me. :D I want to do this deal for $200-300 which means that I have real good odds that it's gonna be someone's set of secondhand Bullitts. They're just too common.

[thesameguy]

You can get lower than those prices if you keep your eyes open - DTD has some pretty good opportunities, especially if you need tires at the same time, which I assume you would.

[novicius]

Someone is selling their OEM 17" Mach 1 rims right now for $260. I idly thought about seeing if he'd take $200 -- but I am going to recondition my stock 17" Bullitts this winter (chemical strip / hammer out the dings / repaint)... so two sets of 17's? In a cheap > performance build?? Yeah I don't need 'em.

No I will roll on my factory Bullitts and wait for a good deal on a staggered set of 18's next year.


EDIT: Just for a budget update, right now I'm $6470 USD all-in (including parts not yet on the car, not including oil / gas / insurance) since April '15. The remaining bushings, brake hardware and fluids (and any surprise labor costs) will potentially push me up to $7K even -- and then I still want to get my windows tinted, a new amp and speakers, some minor want-to-haves (rims & tires, Hurst shifter, 4.10's, new badges, fresh floor mats, etc.).

So... maybe $9K all-in for a solid 13.9xx quarter-mile car before any power upgrades? Eh, not a great deal but then finding a running yet still worn-out V8 Mustang for less than $4k is also tough. I've seen 'em and they don't look pretty at all.

I bought my '71 'Cuda (non-original 440/auto) in 1995 for $4500. That's $7K USD in 2015 dollars. #shrug

This time of year is the absolute best time of year to buy a toy -- and I'm not seeing any 99-04 V8/5-speed Mustangs for this money near me. There's one anomaly SN95 Bullitt Mustang for $5800. Scam? Gonna make somebody lucky? Maybe. Other than that there's a lot of convertibles, a lot of more expensive modded GT's and a lot of high-buck Cobras. So I still feel pretty good about the total value of this thing. :)

Forgot the 4.10's -- gotta have 'em!! :rawk: #dontfearthegear

[thesameguy]

I run these types of calculations a fair amount, and for me the "I ultimately spent X" conversation has to include "And got Y years of enjoyment and got to participate in the evolution." That has real value for me - sure, I could have saved for those Y years and bought something turnkey, but having it sooner and getting to make the decisions along the way are both good feelings for me. :)

[novicius]

Oh absolutely agree -- but I'm only 20 months in so my monthly investment is still car payment sized. :D

I'll keep slowly poking / prodding / playing with this ride over the next few years. I do not want to pay Cobra money, I do not want to pay Saleen money, I don't even really want to pay Mach 1 money, so... I'd maybe sell it if I came across a minty '03-'04 Mustang with Viking Perf suspension and a built n/a aluminum-headed 2V 5.0L stroker & nitrous setup for like $10K. :lol: #dreaming #cheapass

[thesameguy]

Yesterday when I was hung up on the XR's cooling issue and then the tach died at a stoplight I said "Fuck it, I'm buying an ST this weekend." About one stoplight later I said, "No I'm not, who am I kidding? Too cheap for that." :lol:

[Random]

You should totally buy an ST this weekend anyway. :P

I know of a well set-up FoST for sale in the Bay Area....

edit: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5853916038.html ;)

[Godson]

I run these types of calculations a fair amount, and for me the "I ultimately spent X" conversation has to include "And got Y years of enjoyment and got to participate in the evolution." That has real value for me - sure, I could have saved for those Y years and bought something turnkey, but having it sooner and getting to make the decisions along the way are both good feelings for me. :)

This is me. But I care less about how much I spent, and how little i owned/drive it. Take Bertha for example. I owned that car longer than I owned anything so far, 4 or 5 years. I hated that car for what it was until I traded it at a loss of 4k$. Looking back though, even if it only was driven 1k miles, I have an excellent story with it. I grew when I owned it.

[thesameguy]

You should totally buy an ST this weekend anyway. :P

I wouldn't even start to argue "should," but the truth is I won't.

And I'm not entirely sure why. :shrug:

[Kchrpm]

I know exactly why. For a nominal fee, I'll explain it to you.

[Random]

Because like pretty much everyone here, you don't actually NEED to buy a car/an additional car/a faster car/or whatever. And you recognize that. :)

[Kchrpm]

Goddammit Russ, I was going to get a nominal fee out of him :(

[21Kid]

#4... no-profit. :(

[Godson]

:lol:


Fucking love you guys

[novicius]

Just playing around with the American Racing configurator:


http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2189&stc=1

17" still look huge on SN95's. I'm sure they're heavy AF, too -- don't care. :cool:

[21Kid]

Nah. Looks fine. :cool:

[dodint]

The size looks good. I'd have to see the two-tone difference between the lip and the spokes in person to really tell if I like it or not.

[novicius]

I also dig the traditional Torq-Thrust II's in 17":

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2193&stc=1



...as well as a true vintage-style Magnum 500:

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2192&stc=1

...damn configurator. :lol:


http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2191&stc=1

I could also go back to all-aluminum 18" Magnum 500 reps which would be both cheaper (all-important) and less Old Hot-Rodder Creeper bling. :cool:

[novicius]

Alright, time is drawing close to when I need to start this project.

Sport Spring Install (http://www.stangnet.com/tech/spring.html)

I'll post pics when I get stuck during this descent into (my) lunacy, I'm sure. ;)

[novicius]

Ho-lee shiat -- I think I'm in love...

2005-2014 Mustang Carroll Shelby CS66 18x9.5 Wheel (Anthracite / Machined) (http://www.stage3motorsports.com/CS66-895440-A-2005-2014-Mustang-Carroll-Shelby-CS66-18x95-Wheel-Anthracite-Machined.html)


http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2195&stc=1
Specifications:


Size: 18" x 9.5"
Bolt Pattern: 5x4.5" (5x114.3mm)
Finish: Anthracite with a Machined Face
Offset: +40
Front: Yes
Rear: Yes


I will need to run spacers on my hubs to mount these accurately, no bigs. :up: #dreaming

Ok back to my dirt-ass life. ;)


EDIT: Looks like I should 285/35R18's on these... also found a good write-up on Offset/Backspacing (http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/wheel-tire-forum/622005-offset-backspace-how-do-they-relate.html).

[Kchrpm]

Those look pretty spiffy :up:

[21Kid]

I like them... But, I can just imagine the brake dust that's going to accumulate in-between those.


#rainparade

[novicius]

Dirty? :?

Son, if I ever got a set o' these, I would park the car in my living room and never turn it on again. :lol:

[thesameguy]

Dude.

http://www.carrollshelbywheels.com/closeout-cs66-glosss-black-set.html

Buy direct, gloss black would look just fine on the Bananastang. $800!

[novicius]

MONEY!! :D :up:

If only I was in the buying mood! :lol:

[thesameguy]

For me, it's usually a few shots of bourbon before I'm ready to spend. Give it a try!

[novicius]

No, I've got too many parts sitting around to be put on, too many nagging things that need to be fixed, too many steps to complete before I'm ready -- the bling-bling rims are gonna wait until the car is *done*!

(Note that a set of used Bullitts does not qualify as "bling-bling". ;) )

::

Last night I moved the Stangbanger smack into the middle of my folks' two-car garage before the Slushblizzard hit us. Just getting ready to work on the car within the next few days.

There are new springs, shocks & struts, camber bolts, the bumpsteer kit, that airbag clockspring you sent me that I need to pay you for, futz with the stereo bits, unmounts the tires and hammer out a slightly bent lip on a rim, strip the paint, clean 'em up and re-paint them before getting some new rubber.

Nevermind rebuilding the front brake calipers, SS brake lines, juice, new blanks & pads all around, replace the rear window gasket, get the windows tinted, debadge the car, paint the rear valence panel and the rear pedestal wing black, buy and install the Hurst shifter & handle -- and the car still won't be able to launch hard on the open-diff highway gears, fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck! :lol:

Ahem.

So yeah, them rims gonna wait. :D

[thesameguy]

Man, I will be thinking of you and LAUGHING while I work on the Fiero this weekend. :P

And then probably crying the weekend after when I do the water pump on the Aero. womp womp

[CudaMan]

285s on 9.5" wheels? Going for the meaty look! Works well on pony cars.

[novicius]

Not as crazy as stuffing a 275 on my stock 17x8's which I'll be trying sometime soon! :hard:

[thesameguy]

Shiii.... The Fiero had 265s on a 7"!

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/fiero_reartire.JPG

All. Business.

[novicius]

:lol: :up:

[CudaMan]

Oh there's a big tire on skinny rim dick swinging contest going on in here? Ok. :D

Wide 275/35-15s on 7" wheels.

http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413448/original.jpg

Some crazy people even put those tires on 6" wheels.

[thesameguy]

Yeah, it's like automotive ferret legging.

[Godson]

:lol:

I stuffed 285/40s on an 8" wheel.

Looked tits.

[novicius]

Ha! :lol: :up:

Cuda wins -- as usual... ;)

Reading up on the 275/40R17's on 8", the Moostang guys say this tire fits great on the stock 8" rims. So since a few strangers on the Internet tell me its ok, I'm gonna go for it. #ofcourse

[CudaMan]

Another funny thing about tires: a 275 isn't always a 275 (or whatever number you want to talk about). I dunno why but there's a fair bit of leeway sometimes. Width of the contact patch can also change with wheel width. For example, the silly 275s I ran in the pic above would have had a much wider contact patch had they been on, say a 10" wide wheel. The sidewalls would have been happier and more responsive in that case, too.

A little meat on the street is a-ok IMHO. ;) Or when racing class rules restrict wheel size.

[novicius]

The M00stangers say that Nitto's 275 is narrow (for a 275) so it fits on the stock 17x8 rims just fine.

I'll need that meat for when I'm eventually running 4.10's and a 150-shot dry plate. :twisted:

[dodint]

Was just reading up on 3.73 v. 4.10. So much to learn.

[novicius]

3.73's are a waste of money. Either keep your stock shit or go 4.10's / 4.33's. :hard: #dontfearthegear

[dodint]

:hard: #dontfearthegear

Ah, I see you've been to [insert every Mustang forum here] as well.

[novicius]

It's a Mustang, I don't want to reinvent the wheel.

If folks who've owned Mustangs for decades say that either they're disappointed in 3.73's or always pull for 4.10's, why should I be skeptical? I figure just take their knowledge and move on to the next issue.

FWIW, I can find FRPP 3.73 kits on my FB Mustang For Sale groups pretty regularly. It's rare to see anyone selling 4.10's. #datapoint #shrug

[dodint]

I don't have an opinion. Just was researching to see if that purple Mustang with the 4.10 was proper for road race hot lapping.

LOTS of stuff I'm finding are for drag setups.

[novicius]

Of course, of course -- the recipe for road racing is totally different than drag racing.

That said, 4.10's are still gonna take you up to, what, 130 MPH? On a 26" tall tire that should be around 5500 RPM in 5th.

Just how fast do you plan on going? ;)

[dodint]

Was thinking more about how much more often you would have to shift.

Just a workday distraction. ;)

[Godson]

The M00stangers say that Nitto's 275 is narrow (for a 275) so it fits on the stock 17x8 rims just fine.

I'll need that meat for when I'm eventually running 4.10's and a 150-shot dry plate. :twisted:

The NT05 is a pretty decent tire in the dry for the price...

[novicius]

20-22psi is what makes them wear very nice and still has good handling and feel. 275s on an 8" are very common on these cars since a 245 drag radial from nitto is so damn small.

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2199&stc=1

Looks good to me. :up:

[thesameguy]

22psi ZOMG!

[novicius]

My personal opinion is that if you're taking the LCAs off for ball joints, you should at least replace the LCA bushings.
Trigger pulled on the Steeda 2x ball joints after all. They look taller than the other BJs I found and considering my H&R Supersport springs will drop me to the pavement, I opted for them.

Also ordered LCA bushings & Bilstein front strut dust covers. In a strange twist of fate, I didn't want to drop $900 for the custom-valved Maximum Motorsports Bilstein race dampers. Instead I waited and WAITED for a set of used civilian Bilstein HD dampers to fall my way for ~$300 shipped.

I finally checked out what I got -- the guy sent me the Race dampers. :lol:

[thesameguy]

HWAT? RAD!

[novicius]

Yeah I'm torn -- did I get jobbed? :D They're worth a lot more than $300... but am I running enough spring? I bet the guy unloaded them after getting his fillings knocked out on 'em... but then he was selling a set of Eibach springs and not zee German hardc0re spring I've got... so I'm fully expecting MY fillings to be poppin' out no matter what!

Anyone know what happens when you combine a soft spring with an iron grip damper? :lol:

[dodint]

Someone has to test mule that setup and let the world know what happens. ;)

(Do it)

[thesameguy]

Yeah I'm torn -- did I get jobbed? :D They're worth a lot more than $300... but am I running enough spring? I bet the guy unloaded them after getting his fillings knocked out on 'em... but then he was selling a set of Eibach springs and not zee German hardc0re spring I've got... so I'm fully expecting MY fillings to be poppin' out no matter what!

Anyone know what happens when you combine a soft spring with an iron grip damper? :lol:

A soft spring with lots of damper is the way the Europeans have historically tuned suspension so you might be just fine. Of course, they are aiming for critically damped and you may have crossed into overdamped, but I can't imagine it'd be a real problem on the street. I'd expect the worst side effect would be on a highly uneven road creating an unsettled feeling. Hey, at least you're on the right side - underdamped is where you really don't wanna be. ;)

Edit:

https://qph.ec.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-65cf5a26d1126378d503898bb59a1ca8-c

:up:

[novicius]

:up: :up:

Obviously I'll report back when I can. :D #fingerscrossed

[thesameguy]

Worst case, just drill a small hole in the shock to let some of the fluid out. :assclown:

[Godson]

what are the springs rated at? what are the shocks built for?


Those are the questions you should be asking.

[novicius]

H&R Supersport springs are rated at 700-760 lb/in. front, 275-300 lb/in. rear.

The MM1's (Street?) shocks/struts I have (I don't think they're actually Race dampers after all, those are labeled MM2 & MM3's) do not give a rating; instead they show that they will work with these springs (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Damper-Selection-for-Stock-Location-Springs.aspx).

My question about softs springs + firm dampers comes from the previous owner's combo, not my combo.

[novicius]

Found the classic car design I've been looking for: the 1969 Factory Ford Drag Team Mustang (http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1969-ford-mustang-sohc-match-racer/)

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2246&stc=1

No, I'm not going to lift my M00stang like a Gasser. :lol: But the (as yet unknown) blue paint, white hood & C-stripe, the authentic flat-face American Racing 200S Daisy rims -- and yes Keith, Goodyears :D -- might eventually all come into play. Note the vertical 3-bar taillights, the fact that there are 17" AR 200S rims available that I mocked up earlier, Hurst shifter, and the fact that both the mighty 427 Cammer and my lil' po boy 2V 281 are both SOHC engines. :up:

The color looks like an Acapulco Blue (Ford #3077-A) but might be a touch lighter and therefore not a factory '69 color. Also, I wouldn't be going spoiler-delete for this look, instead opting for an MMD Ducktail spoiler. (http://www.americanmuscle.com/mmd-unpainted-ducktail-spoiler-9904.html)

Just something for me to daydream about...

[Kchrpm]

and yes Keith, Goodyears :D
:cool: :cool: :cool:

[dodint]

Ducktail spoilers are fantastic.

[novicius]

The shop is here in WI (http://perkinsrestoration.com/1969-sohc-mustang/), I should see if I can actually view the car sometime.

Heh looks like I don't have to worry about the original color...

http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/41515502+w620+re0/mump-1302-16%2bgeorgia-shaker-is-back%2b1969-ford-mustang-undercarriage.jpg

[novicius]

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2247&stc=1

[thesameguy]

Those are 18" in that picture? I like that.

[novicius]

Those only go up to 17" -- which is fine with me, personally. I like chunky sidewall. :cool: #twss

Eventually, the white vinyl C-stripe/hood/rear panel can always be peeled off obviously. I'm just happy to have some sort of nerdy-specific retro idea that isn't based on mocking up a Shelby, Boss, Mach 1 or Saleen.

[Kchrpm]

As requested

2248

2249

I forgot the tiny attachment picture problem...

[Kchrpm]

http://images-eds.xboxlive.com/image?url=MSVnmBUo_fHjbLYMjAEUQ0kJDVkmZx_70LaGGhu4 0ZcCCraaEZtPR.LkCsJ5cM7xFzYZgWDS5fzrF33LUaOgExs2O4 O.jWwJ2IqgosMmtyoq5UMGC0oNlRviKUbXIdowOlcW3PMeiMBZ 7LRLYV7JwHJqyJ_ri91XUQL2yo_W7KvMotuTN_RR_hAjbI29ii bVCZRShXXeaLt0hiGITkSjdegNq.Lce9fwjQP0mZ0tgUx9KEmt f6SOBrBGuM_ZAPlFAH5QAixXgNrzohNK8cSzaMF.CTU1ISeoe5 TG7YCux6c-&format=png&h=1080&w=1920

http://images-eds.xboxlive.com/image?url=MSVnmBUo_fHjbLYMjAEUQ0FE2WIKNOc0z6D1sJ4J ZnQWSAymHU6craH55pGmH9gCYHvH7.FOHYrgXQ.gB1rT9ABXlh w_ieyMu8YpC.Zo8dEz6cZHSJ3eVYZ_BYP__sp_LJhtyzqY9FQo pMqlkXXV_S06LIbrpJdWAjRmOlLY9m8msSUzaKpLzo6QxChX9. dUd2q6IoGyFrIj3tiOolag9GtxoSjPsR4hoP3kNi0kWAJNmnim 4GKm.W2taYaKt5S5IbkUmE4AupgfmlCo7i7g6pAli8r8Iu7JbZ _y9y4Gw74-&format=png&h=1080&w=1920

[dodint]

Hmmm.

That hood needs help.

[thesameguy]

I'm not mad at that!

[novicius]

Thanks Keith! :D :up:

Looks real good -- any chance of a 3/4 rear view with the rear white panel? Or changing the rims to the American Racing Torq-Thrust rims? :D #gifthorse

[21Kid]

Those only go up to 17" -- which is fine with me, personally. I like chunky sidewall. :cool: #twssMore cushion for the pushin'!!!

Eventually, the white vinyl C-stripe/hood/rear panel can always be peeled off obviously. I'm just happy to have some sort of nerdy-specific retro idea that isn't based on mocking up a Shelby, Boss, Mach 1 or Saleen.
http://images-eds.xboxlive.com/image?url=MSVnmBUo_fHjbLYMjAEUQ0kJDVkmZx_70LaGGhu4 0ZcCCraaEZtPR.LkCsJ5cM7xFzYZgWDS5fzrF33LUaOgExs2O4 O.jWwJ2IqgosMmtyoq5UMGC0oNlRviKUbXIdowOlcW3PMeiMBZ 7LRLYV7JwHJqyJ_ri91XUQL2yo_W7KvMotuTN_RR_hAjbI29ii bVCZRShXXeaLt0hiGITkSjdegNq.Lce9fwjQP0mZ0tgUx9KEmt f6SOBrBGuM_ZAPlFAH5QAixXgNrzohNK8cSzaMF.CTU1ISeoe5 TG7YCux6c-&format=png&h=1080&w=1920

http://images-eds.xboxlive.com/image?url=MSVnmBUo_fHjbLYMjAEUQ0FE2WIKNOc0z6D1sJ4J ZnQWSAymHU6craH55pGmH9gCYHvH7.FOHYrgXQ.gB1rT9ABXlh w_ieyMu8YpC.Zo8dEz6cZHSJ3eVYZ_BYP__sp_LJhtyzqY9FQo pMqlkXXV_S06LIbrpJdWAjRmOlLY9m8msSUzaKpLzo6QxChX9. dUd2q6IoGyFrIj3tiOolag9GtxoSjPsR4hoP3kNi0kWAJNmnim 4GKm.W2taYaKt5S5IbkUmE4AupgfmlCo7i7g6pAli8r8Iu7JbZ _y9y4Gw74-&format=png&h=1080&w=1920 :lol: Nice! (except for the hood)

[Kchrpm]

More requests

https://screenshotscontent-t3002.xboxlive.com/000938af8af8c784-3817ca5c-a0f3-477b-8993-3bdd704781d5/Screenshot-Original.png?sv=2014-02-14&sr=b&si=DefaultAccess&sig=jJnGXV9hTr%2FgyIM0EgwdWNBXBIvad8XMyoIuvxPDbSM% 3D

https://screenshotscontent-t5001.xboxlive.com/000938af8af8c784-8d3426e5-42ad-4a72-a6db-d93ee79cb8d6/Screenshot-Original.png?sv=2014-02-14&sr=b&si=DefaultAccess&sig=n2ybPZGEHbNlpF7cKzDdtk74H9Ny0aSczAY0zZGEEjE%3D

[thesameguy]

Ooof. That white tail panel does nothing for me. It actually works against me. The hood I kind of like as a retro in-your-face to carbon fiber pieces, but the back is less good IMHO.

[speedpimp]

Could the color be Bahama Blue (http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?type=paint&paint=15357&ditzler=2281&syear=1972&smanuf=Ford&smodel=&sname=Bahama%20Blue&rows=50)?

[novicius]

That's a '72 color while the car was built in '69.

In all honesty I don't think it's a factory Ford color. The underside shows that it was originally a shade of red car.

[novicius]

Ooof. That white tail panel does nothing for me. It actually works against me. The hood I kind of like as a retro in-your-face to carbon fiber pieces, but the back is less good IMHO.
Eh I'm ok with it -- if I ever do it, it'll just be a temporary vinyl. :) #shrug

[novicius]

Obligatory.

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2254&stc=1

Found that can in my stepfather's fridge. 'Cause 'Murica. :lol:

So finally have the new ball joints, strut dust covers and front LCA bushings in addition to the rest of the shit needed to go low. Spent more than a few precious calories last night getting the frozen-ass lug nuts off the damn wheels. :smh:

Per the instructions on the H&R springs, I tried loosening the top strut bolt while they were still in the car. Lost a good 30 minutes wondering how the hell I was gonna monkey-wrench-&-flathead-screw the bolt off before I just did a search on YouTube to see what other intrepid DIYers do:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/761/32868604422_b3825c9964_c.jpg

Ah. Take the strut out of the car and then get the nut & bracket off later. :lol:

Tonight I'll have a bit of time before going out to finish jacking up the rear and see if I can make any progress taking off a front caliper.

EDIT: Just parking this here. (https://www.stangnet.com/2002/05/12/sn95-mustang-spring-install-tech-1979-2004/)

[novicius]

Found a pic featuring a New Edge Mustang on the H&R Supersport springs (no isos). Hell, I may have posted this exact pic earlier in this thread! :finger:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r282/TClark04/P1270001.jpg

I make fun of how "supa-slaaamed!" that it's gonna be but honestly? Not really that low -- and these are considered the lowest springs available for the car! :lol:

[21Kid]

Hah! Told you! (I completely forgot to look that up)

[novicius]

:D :toast:

[thesameguy]

Man, peoples is nuts. After you get the strut off, just motor down to any place that works on cars and have them bust off the nuts with an impact. It's worth the two minutes of their time and your $10 or $20!

Ooooooooorrr... head thee over to Harbor Freight and get an electric impact wrench:

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drivers/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html

230 ft lbs is *probably* enough for most lug nuts and strut top bolts. If not, return it. Seriously worth $40 ($50 - 20% coupon!) for the experiment.

[novicius]

Good tip -- also, I do have an impact wrench & air compressor.

It's the instructions that came from H&R that said try to loosen that nut while the strut was still in the car.

[thesameguy]

That seems like crazy talk! Although I have never dismantled a Mustang strut, more or less struts are struts. Remove strut, attach spring compressors, bust off/a nut (grab a sock) with an impact, reassemble. :up: If you have clearance it's sometimes easier to attach the compressors while the strut is on the car and you can use its weight to compress the spring, but you can also do it off the car. Maybe H&R is assuming you're a regular guy without air tools?

[novicius]

Yeah about those spring compressors: how do I safely open them up if I don't have a vise?

My plan is to use the floor jack to hold the spring in place, pull the bolts to the hinge of the LCA and then use the hydraulics to uncompress the old spring and press the new spring in. Bad idea ?

[thesameguy]

I may not be following - I assume since LCA we're talking about the front end, and struts, yeah? So, you need to free the spring compressors from the old spring?

Should not be a problem - remember you don't need to compress the spring at all initially, you're just capturing it so it doesn't sproing out of control when you [try to] remove the strut hat. You only need to capture some of the spring while it's contained by the strut, and you can do that totally off the car. The strut is what limits the droop, so all you'll need to do is jack the front end up, remove the top bolts and the bolts at the knuckle, then remove the strut as a unit. Then attach the compressor to provide a limit and back off the compressor once you have the hat off.

I'll bet you can google the free length of the spring so you know what to expect. On modern cars, there is typically not much preload. I would expect just a few inches, a couple coils. If you capture half the spring, leave half the compressor available, you should not have any issues or surprises.

If there is a monster preload, you can use two pair of compressors - loosen the first pair to the max amount, install the second, remove the first, loosen the second. I've only ever had to do that once - and that was on that Focus I parted out where the strut was MANGLED and the spring had a dangerous bulge to start. Like me.

[novicius]

TSG, instructions from here. (https://www.stangnet.com/2002/05/12/sn95-mustang-spring-install-tech-1979-2004/)

http://gtxforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2256&stc=1


7. Strut. Remove the 3 bolts on the strut tower to remove strut. (see picture) (15mm)

Once you have removed the bolts, GENTLY lower the jack, guiding the strut down, making sure it doesn’t hit the inside of the wheel well. Now, there is a plastic/rubber lining in the wheel well. The strut may get caught up on it….just maneuver it around until it pops loose. I ended up jiggling it and pushing up on the liner to get it done. Keep lowering the jack until it won’t go down anymore, taking care to have your buddy hold the strut as it’s coming down. (you will hear a POP, that’s the sway bar coming off of the sway bar end…don’t freak.

Now, the spring won’t pop out YET. Once the A-arm is all the way down, use a prybar to pop the spring out of the arm. Be careful, use a series of quick tugs and it should come out no problem.
So they're uncompressing the spring using a floor jack. Yes/No?

[thesameguy]

Ooooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhh.

The Mustang has struts but not MacPherson struts... WTF? Is this 1970??? :lol: Glad you didn't take my advice, I made some crazy assumptions!

Because the car has a discrete spring and strut, the strut captures the spring in the a-arm. When you remove the strut, you remove the a-arm's limit and the spring would be free to spring. Keeping a load on the a-arm with the jack keeps the spring captured. Lowering the jack eventually frees the spring (mostly, you'll likely still need to pop it out with a prybar). This is how old cars with shock/spring combos work - it's just really unusual to employ a strut but not a MacPherson strut - I can't imagine what the point of that is... maybe a low-cost redesign of an existing suspension? The Fiero is sorta similar.

Reinstalling is just the opposite - place the spring in the a-arm, use a jack to capture it, then reinstall the strut. You shouldn't need spring compressors at all, as I'm sure that H&R spring is probably many inches shorter than the original. You'll likely just need to set it in place and jack up the a-arm. I sure do like installing lowering springs. ;)

Man, I really want to know more about that front suspension!

[novicius]

Ok I was wondering why what you were saying wasn't jiving with what I was seeing. :up:


the spring had a dangerous bulge to start. Like me.
Aww, are you flirting with me?? :D

[thesameguy]

Just drawing comparisons where available. :P

[novicius]

Not too bad...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3697/33063295865_259f7d7448_b.jpg


...oh. :lol:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2208/33063288645_2d6e791c5b_b.jpg

Eh, the torque boxes held the jacks and the jack stands so I'm going to assume that there's still enough intact metal there to support 250ish RWHP (which is my initial off-bottle goal).

There is *so* much going wrong with the rear-end, it's another rabbithole on its own: new driveshaft (as you can see the u-joint is a push-in, no replaceable snap rings), leaking diff needs disassembly, 4.10's, powdercoating, needs the axle tubes welded, 31-spline axles, upper and lower control arms & bushings... maybe narrowing the axles/axle tubes? Narrowing the solid axle parts & labor can easily eat $1000, another $300 for an aluminum driveshaft, $250 for control arms... sheesh.

But I have nearly two more years to think about it and save up for it (this coming winter I will be focusing on pulling the motor & trans) and it's all far cheaper than buying a new one so...! :D

[dodint]

Should have just bought a car that had all that done already.

*grin*

[novicius]

Yeah next time I'll call your daddy. :p

[dodint]

I'm not even mad, bruh.

[novicius]

;) :toast:

A New Edge Mustang that's been properly set up and not throwing codes is worth twice what I paid. #shrug

[dodint]

I wish I cared enough about Mustang variants to go to war with you on the pre-New Edge v. New Edge SN95 front, but I don't. Would be a fun rivalry/running gag. I'm just happy to not have an S197 or a Fox body.

[novicius]

Understandable -- you're a Cobra owner. Upper echelon, y0. ;)

[dodint]

Nah, us Cobra drivers all have Cobra R envy. There is always something left to aspire to.