TSG's Unified Fleet Thread [Archive] - Page 2

Random

May 12th, 2014, 09:52 AM

STATEMENT: POWER INVERTER MODULE

May 9, 2014 , Auburn Hills, Mich. - Chrysler Group is replacing the power inverter module (PIM) in an estimated 4,141 electric cars to prevent coolant seepage that may cause power loss while driving.

A PIM alters electric current to accommodate battery-powered propulsion. A routine warranty data review prompted an investigation, during which Chrysler Group engineers discovered a PIM defect that may, over time, seep coolant onto electrical components, causing a short-circuit leading to power loss.

Chrysler Group is aware of five such incidents. The Company is unaware of any related injuries or accidents.

Chrysler Group is replacing PIMs in model-year 2013-14 Fiat 500e vehicles assembled between Sept. 24, 2012 and April 4, 2014. Affected customers, all of whom are in the U.S., will be contacted directly and advised when they may schedule service. Associated costs will be borne by the Company.

Customers who are concerned may call the Fiat Customer Assistance Center at 1-888-242-6342.

Chrysler Group takes seriously its commitment to safety and is conducting this campaign voluntarily. The U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has been advised.

:)

thesameguy

May 12th, 2014, 10:18 AM

Hmmm... My dad called over the weekend to mention he thought the coolant on their 500e was low and asked what he should do about it. I told him to take it to the dealer - it's a lease, it's their problem. But, I wonder if maybe he is affected by this? Maybe he has a seepage problem?

We've been meaning to take ours in to have the front license plate mounted - I think we've milked the dealer plate (and no front) about as long as we reasonably can. Two birds with one stone! :D

thesameguy

May 12th, 2014, 02:18 PM

Ran into my cool neighbor one evening last week, and he commented on the monstrosity in the driveway. I apologized for leaving it there, and he responded with "Don't even worry about it, it's your property, not my business. But," he added, "you'll probably hear about it from other people. Fuck 'em." Yeah, that's why he's the cool neighbor. Still, there are a bunch of reasons not to leave an RV sitting in the driveway - there's the obvious eyesore issue, but there's also the worry that if you keep an RV in your driveway and one day it's not there, that's as clear a sign as any to dirty asshats that you aren't home. Saturday I put it in the backyard.

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_hiding.jpg

It fits nicely back there, although it kills two other parking spots and makes a slight obstruction to the back lawn. Whatever, it's good for now, allows me to tinker with it, and saves me money on storage. Win. After getting it situated, I mowed the lawn, because good Godamn it was long. Heh.

This afternoon I took a closer look at the dashboard situation. A double-DIN stereo is out - I forgot the climate control was right there.

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_dash.jpg

I will probably still replace the stereo, but it'll be a single DIN. I think I will buy another Pioneer media receiver like I put in the Benz, but I haven't ruled out the possibility of a ghetto flip-out head unit. We'll see.

I also did an inspection on the TV situation, and it's better than I thought. The top cover is just a cover, it's not molded to the TV like I thought it was. It's really just a big square box:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_tvhole.jpg

Surprisingly, it's also a 120v receptacle, not 12v as I imagined.

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_tvoutlet.jpg

Of course that eases replacing it, and even gives a super-convenient place to locate a carputer, but OTOH it means the generator has to run for it to work. Still have some thinking to do, but at least now I know the pieces.

While I was in there, I fixed the sweet Sunpro tach, so now I can see the engine speed. That'll be nice for climbing grades. :)

Random

May 12th, 2014, 02:20 PM

The gauge I looked at the most while climbing grades was the temp gauge. :) Just sayin'.

thesameguy

May 12th, 2014, 02:26 PM

Yeah, but knowing whether you can downshift or need to pull the eff over is worthwhile. ;) It's also useful for towing, which generally wants to be done in 3rd.

Also, I realized one thing today that I forgot to look at when buying: MY1993 RV = R12 A/C system. :sadbanana: I really do not want to retrofit such a system - I'm sure you can't buy OTS barrier hose like you'd be able to for a C/K truck. I may look into an R12 refill - I understand that we're so far down the R134a path that demand for R12 is very low and it's pretty cheap. If I can drop $100 for a refill and have it work for a few months, I'm okay. I might also try one of the sketchy HC-based R12-compatible refrigerants. #whynot

Random

May 12th, 2014, 02:32 PM

120V means that a dorm fridge will fit nicely in that spot. ;)

thesameguy

May 12th, 2014, 02:39 PM

But... I have a full size fridge and freeze just, like 15' away!

Random

May 12th, 2014, 02:45 PM

Yeah, but what if L is taking a nap and you need an Otterpop?!

thesameguy

May 12th, 2014, 02:53 PM

Fair question, but the obvious answer is that she gotta wake up. That's what bitches is for.

Godson

May 12th, 2014, 03:07 PM

:lol:

thesameguy

May 12th, 2014, 03:21 PM

Gonna plop this here for safekeeping:

http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LT22C350ND/ZA

21.5" diagonal LED LCD with a wide viewing angle, upscalar, and a pile of inputs. I deployed two older versions for multifunction purposes two years ago, and they've been great. I'm thinking this plus the wee little HTPC would be fine up front.

I need to better understand how the electrical system works. I just learned the Aiwa head unit is powered off the aux batteries rather than the engine battery. I don't yet understand how the aux batteries recharge - generator, solar, alternator or some combination. I don't want to run on-road entertainment stuff off a pair of batteries that are necessary to run the generator if they only recharge via the generator, because I don't want to always be running the generator while driving. That's dumb.

Anyway, some sort of stereo and this combo with a switching device to go between the the two and an amp which in turns runs the speakers would be great.

It seems flip-out head units are about dead. A month ago I would have said "It's about time" but now I need one. :( DOH! Um... backup cameras. Need to research them.

thesameguy

May 12th, 2014, 06:39 PM

What?

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_lcd1.jpg
http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_lcd2.jpg
http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_lcd3.jpg

:mic drop:

Random

May 12th, 2014, 07:07 PM

What about a touch-screen AiO carputer?

Probably breaks every single law in the books... :D

thesameguy

May 12th, 2014, 07:34 PM

I looked into that, but the big barrier was price. The cheapest touch screen of appropriate size was $300, which just didn't quite seem worth it. There are also some potential issues with inputs, as it turns out all the backup cameras use a composite input. I ordered that Samsung HDTV/monitor (the Dell was just for testing) which will fit perfectly in the opening and provide HDMI for the carputer and composite for the backup camera, plus other IO for features I may want to add - and frankly Chromecast or an AppleTV come immediately to mind. Anyway, I'm rolling with that display, some backup camera solution I haven't come up with, and the wee li'l E350-powered PC that was in my bedroom.

Random

May 12th, 2014, 07:38 PM

http://www.thegpsstore.com/USGlobalSat-ND100S-USB-GPS-Dongle-P2611.aspx

thesameguy

May 13th, 2014, 10:22 AM

That is a solid idea.

I've looked into backup cameras, suffered some mission creep, and got irked. You know what pretty much nobody sells? A multiplexer with any sort of useful video output. Best I've found is s-video, which as a standard is beyond dead. Composite [still] has more traction than s-video. It's no problem finding a camera display that multiplexes, but of course I don't want a puny 7" display. I have a 21.5" display all ready to go! I was thinking it would be cool to have a couple cameras and a multiplexer to switch between them, do quads, etc., but that appears it will be a challenge. I may just resort to a single camera strategically placed and be done. *sigh*

I think I am also going to get a ~100w inverter and hardwire it to the engine electrical, so I can run this shit without running the generator. Maybe someone makes a switch so I can transfer the load over to the house electrical when stopped? I dunno.

Some more stuff for safekeeping:

Adapter harness for common 4-pin cameras to RCA+power: http://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/smcrca4.html
A multiplexer that would have worked if it was available: http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/4-CH-CCTV-Camera-Video-Input-Quad-Processor-Splitter-for-Car.html
A stupid-expensive splitter that is probably just a cheap Chinese product sold at a markup, plus it's s-vid out: http://www.rearviewsafety.com/products/camera-systems/emergency-vehicle/4-channel-mini-mobile-splitter-box.html
Another multiplexer - looks like my best bet, but WTF is "tadibrothers?": http://www.tadibrothers.com/Catalog/Splitscreensystems/Split-Screen-Control-Box-for-up-to-4-Backup-Cameras

On to camera(s)!

thesameguy

May 13th, 2014, 10:40 AM

Maybe something like this for two cameras (120 degrees): http://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/cam1.html

Random

May 13th, 2014, 02:43 PM

Random

May 13th, 2014, 02:44 PM

Transfer switch basics: http://www.rvcruzer.com/electrical/chapter4.php

speedpimp

May 13th, 2014, 04:06 PM

Any idea which F eetwoo facility that was hatched at?

KillerB

May 13th, 2014, 04:16 PM

Could have been the Paxinos, PA plant... it definitely looks familiar. But I think Paxinos did mostly Bounders.

There's definitely a bad case of scope creep going on here, but it's not my project so I'll just sit back and enjoy it. :)

thesameguy

May 13th, 2014, 09:14 PM

There are definitely switches to combine/separate the house and vehicle electrics. I was just reading a thread about them somewhere else--slightly different problem, in that the poster wanted to make sure the house electrics didn;'t drain the vehicle battery past a certain amaount, but it's a similar setup, I would guess.

What I believe is that, at least in Fleetwoods, there is no connection between the house and engine batteries, as there is a switch on the dash to jump house to engine to start the engine in the event the engine battery takes a shit. That switch is on this truck and was on the Bounder as well. I think the only way to charge the house batteries is the generator. Well, and the solar panel on the roof, but I'm sure that would take an eon to charge to big old batteries. That's just what I think, I don't know that factually. :) It just seems that the switch would have no place if they were actually connected in another way.

I don't know how long the two big 12v house batteries would run the TV much less the computer before killing them. so that's a question. Also, having to run the generator to run them while driving is annoying, but so would be depleting the engine battery running them when parked. Primitive electrical systems are primitive! :lol: I know people add more/larger batteries and big inverters to address these situations, I just don't want to go to that trouble or expense. I just have to noodle out a way get what I want working to work. :)

thesameguy

May 13th, 2014, 10:21 PM

Could have been the Paxinos, PA plant... it definitely looks familiar. But I think Paxinos did mostly Bounders.

Dunno, but I think Riverside. The only indicator is the sticker on the side that says "Fleetwood RVs / Riverside, CA" and some other identifying stuff.

There's definitely a bad case of scope creep going on here, but it's not my project so I'll just sit back and enjoy it. :)

Some sort of infotainment (HA!) system was always part of the plan - I gotta party up in this bitch. :D I just never thought of having - or the use of having - multiple outward cameras. Although, I am still *strongly* entertaining the idea of building some sort of contraption to mount on a big mast and record the building of the city. We're going to be up there a day or two early (I think), and having a video of that would be dope. ;)

George

May 14th, 2014, 10:32 AM

I now have two Fleetwoods, and the second is even bigger than the first.

Wait...what? TWO? Bigger? (I'm thinking longer, somehow)

*looks back through this thread without luck*

*remembers RV thread*

*ends journey on YouTube*

Congratulations!

And yeah, it is longer, innit?

thesameguy

May 14th, 2014, 11:28 AM

Random said it many times during the hunt, but as it turns out the length is really not that much of a concern. I thought that would be the daunting part, but really I've had no issues backing it up. The real concern, for me anyway, has been the width and the height. I've found it somewhat difficult to place in narrow lanes, and the concern you're going to whack something that under normal circumstances is a total non-issue (like the eve of your garage...) is always looming. When we were driving back up 99 there was a spot of construction that said "Low bridge / Over 14' Use Detour" and for a moment I panicked, wondering exactly how tall it was. Still don't know, but there's no damage to report so that's positive. ;) (I probably should measure it's height, though...)

I did some more thinking about the infotainment project, and I'm now wondering if the computer is even necessary. Maybe just an AppleTV or some other screen mirroring-type device would be a better approach - something that could mirror the iPhone or Windows tablet. Having the brains be portable is nice, and having a handheld interface (vs a keyboard or mouse) is also nice. The computer brings the possibility of the GPS to the table, or rather, stored maps vs. maps downloaded from the internet. That's an advantage for sure, but maybe there are other ways around that.

So many possibilities!

Random

May 14th, 2014, 12:23 PM

Find a MirrorCast-compatible monitor, and it'll talk to the Venue...

edit: the fisheye mirrors are your friend for lane placement.

thesameguy

May 14th, 2014, 02:26 PM

I was originally looking for that, but couldn't find one that met the size and input requirements. :( I can use an HDMI dongle - and maybe use one of the multifunction ones in the process. In any case, I am 100% confident I made the right choice with the Samsung - it fits like a glove!

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_samsung.jpg

QAM/NTSC/HDTV tuner built in, composite/component/VGA/HDMI, some USB smart features, 1/8" stereo in and out, 1080p, 2ms, and a VESA mount. It really could not be more perfect for this application. I'll get a passive HDMI switch if necessary, but I think the two HDMI ports will be adequate - one for the dongle, one for the PC.

I am going to build a rest for the monitor to keep is stable in the "stored position," and a shelf or two under it for keeping whatever electronics drive it.

thesameguy

May 16th, 2014, 09:45 AM

Had to make a trip up the hill for work so I decided to take the Fiero. It's small and loud and gets terrible gas mileage making it a terrible road trip car, but it's small and loud and super grippy and redonkulously over-braked so it makes a great road trip car - especially in the mountains. This was the first real test of all last year's suspension/brake/tire work and I'm happy to report it really paid off. The rear end stays totally stable and planted, cornering is very flat and totally predictable, and the brakes are unfadeable - well, unfadeable for a 2700lb car with 160hp. It's fun being in a car that simply does not make enough power to overwhelm its other systems. I had a real opportunity to fully exercise the brakes, and I'm confident whatever reports of "OH NOES BRAKE BALANCE!" were grossly overstated. Not once was there concern about getting on the pedal, even when encountering slow-moving traffic in the middle of a blind turn. Admittedly, it could be a result of the retardedly wide rear tires, but whatever. The car feels very balanced and is much fun to drive - at least after re-adjusting to the total lack of power steering. Having nothing isolating your arms from fairly sticky 225/45-17s is a little fatiguing after a couple hours, albeit rewarding. After getting over the fear the car is coming apart and being reminded that, no, that's just the road through primitive '70s GM steering you start to appreciate all the knowledge of the surface you get - and that's very welcome with Highway 50 being in the shape it's in. ;)

It's two worst attributes are steering response and power. I can't quite tell if it's a turn-in issue or an understeer issue, but I think the former. It seems there's a delay between steering input and result, rather than a disconnect between steering wheel and tire angle. The front end of this car is clearly its weak point - it's still -'87 front suspension which isn't exactly good. I have a fairly aggressive alignment on it, and I'm not sure what I can to improve on it without seriously compromising tire life. There may be some caster adjustment still left, so I'll look into that. It's absolutely livable but I'd like to dial in a little more responsiveness if possible. I have to go back up there on Tuesday, so I'm going to try and shuffle the caster-setting washers around this weekend and see what that gets me.

Power is the obvious other shortcoming - there wasn't much on the road that wasn't faster in a straight line, and that's a problem on Highway 50. Although there are passing lanes and turnouts, the inevitable situation is some asshat tip-toeing through the curves at 30mph and then rocketing up to maximum velocity on the straight passing lanes. I either had to plan REALLY far in advance in order to have enough speed to easily overtake, or ride out the drag race and then simply not apply the brakes at the end. I actually nearly lost an uphill race to a 3/4-ton Suburban which made me laugh and feel bad at the same time, but when the other driver saw the lanes merging into a 45mph turn he backed off and I rocketed on by. I simply cannot understand why someone would rather being in front at the expense of having their bumper ridden than simply get out of the way. I guess one upside of the Fiero's power deficit is that I was never encouraged to make a sketchy pass as I would in, well, any other car I own. It was an exercise in patience, something I'm not very good at. ;)

I almost took the Jag (for more rich car at rich house photos) but I'm glad I took the Fiero. Despite its shortcomings, it's a super fun car. I think I have about four grand into it ($1500 of which is tires, wheels, and brakes), and frankly I'm not sure what else $4k would buy that would be its equal. It does have its imperfections to be sure, but to a large degree those imperfections are a substantial part of its appeal. I mean, a Miata brings a lot of this stuff, but a Miata doesn't have a shitty pushrod V6 burbling out a Flowmaster just inches from your head. No hood to look over, sitting just off the ground, in command of tires and brakes you can't hurt, with 3.4l of cheap f-body power right behind you doesn't make you a race car driver, but it sure makes you feel like one. ;)

FaultyMario

May 16th, 2014, 09:53 AM

Wouldn't 5 extras Bens net you something more out of a 160hp 3.4L V6?

thesameguy

May 16th, 2014, 11:45 AM

Not really. There has been a lot of debate about that on various 60V6 forums. The main problem with the 3.4l is that the heads don't breathe, and that's compounded on the Fiero because the intake manifolds are even worse than the stock 3.4l ones. It's likely I'm only making ~150hp instead of the rated 160hp of the engine because I have the Fiero manifolds. On a regular 3.4l I could probably do a cam, headers, and a bigger TB and net a few horsepower, but on the Fiero I'd have to dump the intake and exhaust manifolds - and I can't do that and still pass smog. $500 on this engine would be a waste - $1500 or $2000 installs a newer "High Value" 3400/3500/3800/3900 motor that makes another 40-80hp, has a better power band, lowers weight, and still passes smog. That's definitely a surer approach. So many possible engine swaps into this car and I've entertained them all - but the new 60V6 is an easy fit, and 2700lbs/220hp/220lb ft should make for a very punchy car.

Godson

May 16th, 2014, 12:27 PM

Not to mention better driveability and other things...

thesameguy

May 16th, 2014, 02:15 PM

Very true. I think all the new motors have variable cam timing, which should make for a very broad powerband - something I don't have right now. Really, revving the 3.4l beyond 5k is useless, and the last 500-800 revs is mostly useless. A big V6 with a full ~4500rpm of good power would be a pretty solid setup. Oh, and at least better gearing and potentially one extra gear (F40 transmission...).

The only thing that that might kinda suck is launches. Right now, I can pretty much dump the clutch at any rpm and have a no-drama launch. More power might introduce some drama. I have learned there is something to be said for totally careless takeoffs. ;)

thesameguy

May 16th, 2014, 07:20 PM

Brought up the RV electrical issue to a coworker, and he said "Sounds like what you need is a change over switch." I've never heard the term before, but he's right:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380VAC-10A-8-Terminal-3-Position-ON-OFF-ON-Latching-Rotary-Cam-Changeover-Switch-/321166710116?_trksid=p2054897.l5675

I'll remove the AC outlet behind the dash, run its wires into a change over switch, then hardware a ~100w inverter between the engine battery and the other poles of the changeover, and voila, a doodad that allows me to choose what's powering the computer and monitor. Easy, cheap solution.

The Samsung monitor has a 1/8" stereo out, so I'll connect that to the aux in on a stereo. Anything that runs through the TV will output its audio through the house speakers. Also easy.

One thing I liked about the Itasca that we looked was that it had an outside compartment with speakers in it so that there could be music outside. I'm thinking about doing something like that, however I'm not sure how important that will actually be. I'd be irked as fuck if someone turned out outside speakers at a campground and would never do that, and I'm thinking maybe just making more noise at Burning Man is maybe less unwelcome but certainly no less necessary. So, I may not worry about it.

I still haven't worked out the backup camera "issue" yet, but frankly it's of very low priority. If I just need to have a spotter when backing up that's a totally acceptable option, so I'm leaving this project for down the road some. Who knows, maybe in the intervening time I'll learn more about the function and the options.

Next mission is replacing the head unit - rear aux in, USB, and BT are must, but everything else is optional. I considered finding a DVD-capable head unit like the Clarion we had in the Rodeo, but I can't for the life me envision a scenario where I'd even want to play a DVD, so that seems like a dumb idea. I'd love to find a single-DIN navigation-capable head unit that relies on an external display, but I highly doubt that exists. Aside from my use, I can't think of a single good reason for it to. :)

thesameguy

May 18th, 2014, 01:00 PM

I finished prototyping the TV/shelf/electrical situation for the Southwind, and learned that AC outlets don't work without the generator running. You can still get 12v from the house system without it running, but no AC. Now some other stuff I've read about inverters and such make sense to me.

I'm left with the options of:

1. Some major, costly rewiring and equipment installation :down:
2. Limiting the TV and computer to running only with the generator :down:
3. Buying an inexpensive <400w inverter to run the TV and computer off the 12v system, whether house or engine. Obviously, they will both accept 120vAC. ;)
4. Buying an expensive DC-DC converter to run the TV and computer off the 12v system, whether house or electrical. The TV is 14v, the computer 19v (but might run fine on less)

The inverter is incredibly wasteful but cheap. The DC-DC converter is far more efficient, but expensive. The secondary advantage of the DC-DC converter is that's MUCH easier to switch ~8a @ 12vDC than switching ~3a @ 120vAC, so quickly switching between electrical sources is less of an issue. What I am not sure exists, however, is a DC-DC converter that can output two different voltage simultaneously. Gotta look into that.

In related news, I think this is gonna be the head unit:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX80BT/JVC-KD-X80BT.html?tp=5684

http://www.crutchfield.com.edgesuite.net/pix.crutchfield.com/products/2012/4/105/p105KDX80BT-F.jpeg

Pre-outs, rear aux & USB input, Bluetooth. No CD player, but whatever.

I'm also considering buying one of the 4-way compact digital amps and ganking the Pioneer out of the SPG - the 14w isn't enough in that car anyway.

thesameguy

May 18th, 2014, 01:05 PM

A pair of these would power both the PC (19v) and display (14v) easily, and at $120 for the pair, only about 50% more than a quality 400w inverter. I think this is probably the answer.

http://www.mini-box.com/DCDC-USB-200?sc=8&category=981

Edit:

Very interesting -

http://store.mp3car.com/Carnetix_CNX_P2140_185W_DC_DC_Regulator_p/pwr-026.htm

It only supplies 13.5v and 18.5v instead of 14v and 19v, but what's half a volt between friends?

Godson

May 18th, 2014, 05:56 PM

I am running the KDX-80BT in my M3 right now.

I love it. It has some oddities, but I think that my be from my lack of reading the manual. A little slow to pick-up bluetooth when turned on each time. Like sometimes up to a minute before music is play via bluetooth. Let me know if you have any questions.

thesameguy

May 18th, 2014, 08:26 PM

I usually play music off a flash drive, so slow BT startup wouldn't be an issue. Really, the only reason to have Bluetooth is why not. :)

Does it have a shallow depth like other digital media receivers?

Actually, now I'm wondering why not get the same Pioneer I put in the Benz, and add in an external amp. That's about the same price as the JVC, and I don't really lose anything. Hmmm.

Some other stuff I am going to need:

http://shop.ocp.com/62-00187-01-Dual-USB-A-Female-to-Dual-USB-A-Male-1-ft-62-00187-01.htm?categoryId=-1
http://www.usbfirewire.com/Parts/rr-111200-30.html
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/11013/DUAL-USB-POWER-CHARGER-12V-24V/

I need some switches, and would like to use some Contura parts (http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog227/#/88/OnePage) but I doubt my ability to cut a clean rectangular hole. I hate using corney toggle switches, but that may be what this comes down to. Still working on that part, but this is coming together nicely and should be pretty cool. The only challenge I can't quite see my way through right now is how to run camera wires aft to fore, and HDMI fore to aft.

Godson

May 19th, 2014, 05:35 AM

It is normal mounting depth. Which is dumb, but they probably didn't want to make a new shell. So it is a cost saving thing, also might run cooler by not being stacked on top of itself. I haven't noticed this thing get as hot as some of the other headunits I have used in the past.

thesameguy

May 19th, 2014, 09:35 AM

Hmmm... the shallow mounting depth was nice on the Pioneer, though I agree that JVC *not* making a whole new chassis makes sense. Could also be Pioneer's shitty 14w amp requires less space and heat dissipation than JVC's manly 20w. ;)

I think I am going to roll with the Pioneer head unit + external amp. The Grandma-sized characters on the display might be nice, and I think the 50w/channel is better than 14w or 20w/channel. It's not like there's a space shortage. I just need to make sure the speakers aren't some weird impedance. They are home bookshelf style, not automotive style. :lol: I was looking at the cheapo Clarion 4x50w amp, but it has some sketchy reviews. I might step up to the Alpine or RF amp. I dunno. It's not important right now.

Hmmm... the stereo is on the aux/house side of the electrical system, so I guess the amp should be as well? Dammit. There are so many electrical considerations here it's not funny! I don't like it one iota.

thesameguy

May 19th, 2014, 02:18 PM

It's coming together quite nicely!

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_monitorout.jpg
http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_monitorin.jpg

The Samsung display fits *perfectly* - I really could not have asked for a better fit. I added the black cross brace as a rest for the display when it's stowed - it supports the monitor from below while the hood captures it from above, which hopefully will prevent it from vibrating too much while on the road. I actually don't care if it vibrates, but I have a feeling that would not lead to a long life for the arm. The arm itself was reclaimed from an office upgrade, so I have five of them - if the hydraulics fail, I'll just install another one. :lol:

When the monitor is stowed, it's easily and clearly visible from the driver's seat, so I think it will be useful as a backup monitor even without moving it. Being able to place it right on the dash is pretty awesome though! The arm is also useful if the passenger wants to actually use it for something - mapping, writing a novel, whatever. Although it would have been easy and functional fixed as the CRT was, having it articulated is badass.

I had originally planned on having two shelves below the monitor, but I ended up sucking up most of the bottom shelf to build a small compartment. I'm going to install the switches for controlling the PSUs as well as USB charging ports (2x 2.1a) and the USB port for the head unit.

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_switchpaneltobe.jpg

It's not *totally* convenient for the driver, but plenty good and gives the passenger access as well. I placed the order for most of the stuff today, but am going to hold off just bit on the stereo ports until I think some more - I may also run an extension from the TV's USB input to this panel so plugging stuff into the TV is easier. As is, the TV needs to be pulled out to gain access to the port. I think I am going to put some sort of anti-skid mat on the exposed half of the shelf as a place to rest cell phones or whatever when they're charging.

The computer has a bracket which is screwed into the shelf, so while it's not going anywhere of its own accord it's removeable if needed. I've heard of removeable faceplates, but this is ridiculous!

The shelf itself was obviously pretty easy to make, although I don't know shit about carpentry and have extremely limited tools, so I'm pretty proud of the fit/finish. I usually get guilt about even considering wood for automotive projects, but half the motorhome is wood anyway, so it fits. I also get the benefit of having a good place to mount the DC-DC converters on the back of the unit, where they are both out of the way but still exposed to good air circulation to help keep them cool.

On the subject of making the shelf, I used this:

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_tablesaw.jpg

It was left behind by the previous occupants of the house, and I'm pretty sure it's from 1984. I've been unable to motivate myself to throw it away, while simultaneously too afraid to use it. Nothing screams ACCIDENT like a 30 year old saw with a totally unknown history. :up: It's no 2014 DeWalt, but it does work. Heh.

And on the subject of things left behind, while messing around with the TV I found the Southwind's anti-raper kit:

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_antiraper.jpg

:up:

novicius

May 19th, 2014, 03:07 PM

Now that's a knife! :lol:

thesameguy

May 19th, 2014, 03:56 PM

Hey, this thing is pretty cool:

http://www.mini-box.com/micro-UPS-load-sharing

A tiny integrated UPS. With one of these things wired between the DC-DC converter and the computer, the input power source could be switched without shutting the computer down. If it wasn't $100, I would try it out.

Where was all this neat stuff in 1998, when I was putting an Intel Celeron computer into a Saab??? Would have been a lot less of a struggle.

jimeez

May 19th, 2014, 06:27 PM

if the table saw has a blade guard, no problem. No shield, toss it. I lost the pads of two fingers on a saw with no shield.

thesameguy

May 19th, 2014, 07:38 PM

It does have a blade guard. It is, however, totally useless. :lol:

Now that I am done with this project it'll probably just sit on the shelf for another four years, but I definitely need to get a new one someday. ;)

Godson

May 19th, 2014, 08:48 PM

Those things will work for a lifetime. Black & Decker table saws are solid,and they are way more versatile than you can imagine. (well maybe not your imagination)

JoshInKC

May 20th, 2014, 04:05 AM

Yeah, they tend to last pretty well. The only thing to really worry about is if the bearings are going out- so if it doesn't make a horrible grinding noise when its spinning up you're probably okay.

thesameguy

May 20th, 2014, 09:37 AM

I think the motor is weak - speed seems quite low, and it easily bogs down even with the 1x8 I used to make the shelf. But, considering this is maybe the third time I've wanted to use a table saw, and the first time I was actually compelled to try, it's fine. I will eventually go buy one - it's inevitable - but the immediate crisis is behind. Maybe this weekend I'll post a picture of the other thing the previous owners left behind - a 40 or 60 year old wood lathe!

thesameguy

May 20th, 2014, 09:44 AM

In other news, I did not manage to do anything with the Fiero this past weekend before having to head back up to Tahoe. It would have been wasted effort, anyway, as travel this morning was slow. Because it snowed.

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/fiero_snow.jpg

Nobody said anything about snow. Pretty sure I have the most inappropriate car on the road here. I almost tipped my hat to a 911 going the other way, but it was a Carrera 4, so I still win.

Really, the snow in Tahoe is never a problem - what sucks is the melting snow that refreezes (quietly, invisibly) and makes for a lively drive up the mountains. Credit (again) to the Sumitomo HTR ZIIIs - they handle crap surfaces with aplomb. I'm sure a hot, heavy, all-iron motor sitting over 245s doesn't hurt traction either. In any case, I'm not suffering... aside from having to drive pretty slowly. ;)

novicius

May 20th, 2014, 11:25 AM

Sweet beater-with-a-heater, brah. :D :up:

CudaMan

May 20th, 2014, 03:06 PM

Turning and braking are probably your greatest problems driving that in the snow. :)

*Brain cues up adventure in Mk1 MR2 on summer tires in fresh falling snow*

FaultyMario

May 20th, 2014, 03:58 PM

Where was that picture taken, Rio de Janeiro?

thesameguy

May 20th, 2014, 05:36 PM

Turning and braking are probably your greatest problems driving that in the snow. :)

That seems about right, although short of being a total asshat (and there may have been some experimentation) I had zero issues. For being a crap '80s GM car, the Fiero is really, really quite good at most things.

Coming back as I started up out of South Lake I saw two Caltrans snow plows parked on the side of the road and thought, Oh, shit. As I crested the summit it was snowing, but not sticking. I think if I'd waited another hour or two to depart it would have gotten real. :lol:

Where was that picture taken, Rio de Janeiro?

Somewhere near Echo Summit, IIRC, but honestly I wasn't paying very close attention so it could have been anywhere.

FaultyMario

May 20th, 2014, 05:57 PM

Neither was I. (https://www.google.com/search?q=hail+storm+brazil&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb#channel=fflb&q=hail+storm+brazil&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=nws) Do'h!

thesameguy

May 23rd, 2014, 10:48 AM

I received my $65 DC-DC converters in the mail this morning, and they look awesome. Quite small and will install nicely! They are each rated for 200w - the monitor is 45w max and the computer 90w max so neither should be stressed. It would have been nice to have a single power supply, but the advantage of going this route means that if the components ever change it won't be an issue reprogramming the converter to handle it. Infinite 6-30v flexibility is nice.

I have a small shipment of switches coming in this afternoon so I really need to get thinking about how this thing is going to be wired. I think I am going to switch the computer and monitor independently, each with an AUX-OFF-ENGINE switch so that I can potentially power them from different sources or leave one off entirely. I still need to figure out what the toggle switch buried behind the TV does/did - it's somehow wired into the house AC, but it was located in such a way that I don't think it was ever meant to be used. Kinda weird. I'm not sure if I should leave it buried, bypass it entirely, or locate it in a better place. Maybe it has something to do with the AC outlet the TV was connected to - which is now totally unused. Once I figure out where those switches go I'll place the USB ports for charging devices and the USB ports for the stereo and TV.

I'm still uncertain about how the whole backup camera thing can work, so I spent some time under the rig the other day investigating options. Man, it's a mess down there - random wires all over the place, who knows what goes where. I found out the the truck has airbags, but sadly the fronts leak. I'm not sure how important these things are - I'd like them to work purely from an OCD perspective, but it's simply not a big enough concern to warrant big money. If RV airbags are like SUV airbags (and a 30 minute install) I'll probably fix them, if not, they'll be ignored. There also appears to be a small ATF leak, but I suspect it's the pan and only a problem with extended sitting. I may still fix it, as that's an opportunity to change the transmission fluid at the same time. Or, I may not care. ;) Otherwise, it looks pretty darned good underneath, and it seems running the camera wires fore to aft won't be a big deal at all. I'll just zip tie them to some other bundle of wires down there. :lol:

I'll mention, also, that as I talk about fixing stuff on the Southwind, I'm not going to do any of the work. I'm 100% outsourcing the airbags and transmission leak if I decide to address them. I'm going to take it to a shop, have them render an opinion on that stuff, the condition of the tires (great tread, light sidewall cracks), inspect the brakes, and check out the hydroboost system (which I think has a bad relay valve, but WTF do I know about hydroboost?). Kills me to think that's probably a grand worth of work, but it surely is. UGH. Whatever, when it comes to 12000+lbs of steel and wood and fiberglass I want a) a professional opinion, and b) professional liability. That's sick, I know, but it's the truth.

June will be the month for those items, as in July I'm taking my parents up to Shasta for some weaksauce weekend camping. Dad has always wanted to tour the country in an RV and I could tell he was a little jealous I bought one. His dream made a lot more sense when gas was a dollar a gallon and he wasn't 80 years old, so this is little more than a gesture, but it'll be fun nonetheless. Plus, we'll get a nice test run out of the RV and I'll feel like I'm getting a little more value from my investment. ;)

novicius

May 23rd, 2014, 10:53 AM

With the increase of plug-in campsites at national parks, the cheapest way to tour the U.S. is probably a Chevy Volt + big tent & mountain bikes.

thesameguy

May 23rd, 2014, 11:07 AM

You're totally right. Not only that, but you'd have to try to find somewhere that doesn't have some sort of plumbing these days. All the reasons to be self-contained have largely evaporated - the only places you might go that you'd need your own power and water won't let an RV in anyway. Except Burning Man. Hence... ;)

The last several times I've been camping it's been me, a tent, a cooler, a Saab, and little else.

Random

May 26th, 2014, 05:04 PM

Godson

May 26th, 2014, 05:09 PM

It is required in certain areas at national parks. Very common in Midwest.

thesameguy

May 27th, 2014, 09:01 AM

Eh...we camp every year and have very rarely ended up at sites with universal power and flush toilets--I mean, they exist, but you have to actively seek such a thing ($$ and pay for it $$). May be a West Coast vs Midwest thing?

But are you camping in places that allow large RVs?

There are plenty of amenity-less campgrounds out there, but very few which also allow long vehicles. I never really paid attention, but when I went looking at some of my favorite places I found none but one would allow the Southwind due to size. Since we've historically taken the Saab, I've never learned the rules at these places. ;)

thesameguy

May 31st, 2014, 11:25 AM

It's getting pretty warm outside & had to take a break, but the Southwind electrical project is going smashingly. Last night I got The Shelf (as it's come be to called) totally finished so I grabbed some spare UPS batteries (12v) and programmed the DC-DC converters. I have to say, these things are completely badass. I didn't read the full description of them - I stopped at "converts 6-34vdc into 5-24vdc" and stopped. But these things are totally programmable - you can tell them min/max battery voltage before startup or shutdown, have them trigger ATX motherboards for graceful shutdowns with ignition, trigger events based on voltage - it's nuts. I played around with the interface for about half an hour looking for something cool to do with them, but in the end just programmed one for 19v and the other for 14v and called it done. I was able to power up and run the computer off the UPS batteries, and watched as the battery voltage sank from 13v to 11v with a rock-steady 19v coming out the other side. As far as I'm concerned, that's black magic. I feel great about putting it in my RV.

Today I've been going over the electrical diagram for the main panel in the truck and running wire for engine & house batteries and grounds. It's just about done - some crimping, some heat shrink tubing, and four screws. I think.

I still have not resolved on a stereo for actually producing audio out of this situation, but I've wired to support an external amp if I decide to go that way. It's also wired to support a powered camera, and I think I found a good way to run those wires - for the record, that's draping them under the chassis. :up:

Time to pound a Rockstar, and finish up EXTREME MOTORHOME INFOTAINMENT PROJECT.

Random

May 31st, 2014, 02:10 PM

:hard:

thesameguy

May 31st, 2014, 03:00 PM

Two words: Hells yeah:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_shelf_nearlydone.jpg

USB charging ports on the left, with the door open showing the crappy blue light. It's crappy because it's blue, but also because it has very poorly distributed light. When the rubber cover is on, there is little to no light leakage so there's that, but it's certain to be a distraction when driving, despite its relatively low placement. We'll see how bad it is.

First switch from the left controls the USB charging ports, so at least the blue light can be shut off to prevent battery drainage. Red light is on when the switch is on - a little redundant, but it means three identical switches. ;)

Second switch from the left turns the computer power supply on and off. Red light indicates it has power.

Third switch from the left turns the display power supply on and off. Red light indicates it has power.

Fourth switch - the red one - controls where the power comes from. Rocked up is power from the house electrical, rocked down is power from the engine electrical, centered turns all the power off.

On the right, the top USB port will be connected to the stereo, bottom port is connected to the TV.

The computer is running Win7, obviously - at the moment, it's playing MP3s off a flash drive in its USB port via Media Center. Sound from the computer goes out HDMI into the TV. This computer was previously bolted to the back of my bedroom TV - it's an AMD E350 based thingy with 4gb of RAM and a 256gb SSD. At full tilt it sucks about 80w but 90% of the time it's drinking less than 30w. I don't know how long the two big house batteries could run it, but suffice to say a really long time. ;)

The TV is the Samsung HDTV/monitor I linked earlier in the thread, and it's awesome. 1080p, 2x HDMI, 1x component, 1x composite, 1x USB, 1x 3.5mm in, 1x 3.5mm out, 1x coax (builtin SD/HD TV tuner). I've got it connected to the computer via HDMI, but it will also support whatever backup camera solution I end up with. I also have it connected to the TV antenna on the roof. In my backyard, it doesn't get hardly any reception - I don't know whether it's because the yard is totally shrouded or because the antenna sucks for HDTV reception. I don't really care - I'm certainly not replacing it. I don't watch TV at home, I'm certainly not watching it anywhere else. The USB port will decode most modern media formats including MP3 and h.264. Its builtin media player is quite good (standard Samsung Smart TV look/feel), and I'm seriously considering just using it for all audio playback - with a full TV-sized display for media information that trumps whatever a car stereo might be able to display!

Audio from the TV (and thus the computer) is routed through the stereo. Since the stereo is the OG Aiwa, that's why there is the jenky looking white cable snaked across the dashboard. The Aiwa has a front aux input - whatever I replace it with will have a rear input so that cable will go behind the dash. I am stoked that the TV will decode digital audio (from HDMI) and output via analog (via 3.5mm stereo) as that really simplified the installation.

How's it all put together? Pretty simply!

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_shelf_bottom.jpg

Waytek screwed up an order, so rather than having the proper connector housings for the Carling rocker switches I had to use generic 1/4" quick disconnects. Whatever, it works fine. Since everything under The Shelf is stationary, there really isn't a reason to have easily removable switches anyway. The two loose yellow wires are the ignition sense wires for the DC converters which I'm not using. I almost clipped them off, but they aren't bothering anyone hanging out down there. ;)

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_shelf_back.jpg

On the back, a Delphi microfuse holder supports four 10a fuses - one each for the DC converters, one for the USB charger, and one for the backup camera. Two DC-DC converters change 12v input to 14v (top) and 19v (bottom). The top (silver) USB connector will mate up to whatever comes off the stereo I end up installing. The coiled up USB cable hangs off the VESA mount and connects to the back of the TV. The four position Weatherpack connector plugs into a matching connector on the chassis side and supplies power and ground to this whole situation.

What is not pictured is a second output from the 19v DC converter which I've set up to charge Dell laptops, and two other Weatherpack connectors for the backup camera power and stereo power.

None of this project was really difficult once I sorted it out in my head. The cost initially seemed retarded high, but as I'm counting up what actually went into the finished product it's pretty darned cheap. Excluding the computer which I already had, there is right about $300 here. I'm totally ok with that.

The next things I need to do are get a stereo and replace the speakers. The house speakers are (oddly) 8ohm, but more importantly they're shitty and old. They are rated at 10w! The puny little Aiwa grossly overdrives them. If they'll fit, some automotive coax 4ohm 6.5" parts will replace them. I don't think it'll be a problem. Replacing the speakers also opens me up to installing an amp, so I may go ahead and do that. It'll add another, er, $350 to this project which is pushing me to a slightly scary number, but OTOH the result will totally rock. :D

thesameguy

May 31st, 2014, 03:08 PM

Oh, and here is the electrical distribution center for the truck:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_panel.jpg

There were a whole bunch of things I could have done, but what I did do is run 10ga wire directly off the disconnect solenoids to The Shelf. The panel is built with spare positions for add-on equipment, but for me it was not only easier but much cooler to execute the whole thing using modern electrical stuff and leave the vintage stuff alone.

Random

June 1st, 2014, 09:04 PM

You totally need these for optimal tunage: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/ele/4460679863.html

thesameguy

June 2nd, 2014, 08:55 AM

The Sony amp has a multiband eq, and I have no idea what to do with it. I don't think I need another 20-something channels. :lol:

I do need Amazon to deliver my order of car stereo stuff!

thesameguy

June 2nd, 2014, 09:40 AM

I spent a stupid amount of time on Sunday trying to figure out how to make the stereo work with the Southwind's electrical system. With just a stereo, I could power the thing through a Carling switch just as I did the computer and display, but with an amplifier in the equation that plan went out the window... the switches are only rated for 20a, and the amp alone draws over 30a - thus preventing me from just using two switches, too. Compounding the issue is that I wanted the stereo to behave more like a stereo in a car, switching on and off automatically with the ignition. That is a totally stupid desire, but OCD kicked in and I couldn't leave the idea alone.

I started dreaming up all sorts of ways to make it work - ranging from employing a pair high-amp relays to buying a $50 high-amp changeover switch. Those were both dumb ideas from a cost and complexity standpoint, but they got me looking in my box o' relays for some magic OE solution I'd harvested from another car. There was a brief moment of joy when I found one of these:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjgyWDEwMjQ=/$(KGrHqR,!m!E6JkJ)R8HBOrtrt4vLQ~~60_35.JPG

It's an SPDT relay from a c900 convertible top, rated at 50a. The relay would handle my load (unlike them bitches), but I still couldn't figure out how to make the thing work the way I wanted it to without introducing all sorts of complications.

I tore myself away from the thing and let my OCD run wild with the wiring under the dashboard, and cleaned out probably 100' of wire that went nowhere, including about 20' of solid-core, household-type wiring that I have no idea what it was even supposed to be doing. Admittedly, my wiring works virtually 100% outside the factory stuff, but my wiring is done with automotive primary wire, automotive connectors, and automotive fuses. It bugs the shit out of me that someone would use a quick splice to get 12v off a random wire instead of using the major distribution panel with spare fused connectors that's just sitting there 2' away! I was able to clean out a lot of it, but I've still got six or eight wires just hanging around with nothing to do. I don't know where they go, or what their intended purpose was. But they're there, bugging me.

While staring at those hobo wires the solution to my stereo hit me - I'd been thinking about it the wrong way. SPDT relays are always closed, one position resting and one powered. I was hung up on using the resting position to connect the engine battery to the stereo, and flipping a switch to move it over to the aux batteries. That's dumb. The answer is to have the resting position connected to the aux batteries, and then use the ignition switch to automatically flip the stereo over to the engine batteries. Saves a switch, makes it automatic! There is a slight downside - it's possible to kill the aux batteries with the stereo, but that's how it's wired from the factory anyway. As long as you disconnect them when you leave (which you're supposed to anyway) it's not an issue. The solution is badass - it means I can still use the remote to turn the stereo on when parked (and the house electrical is on), and not kill the aux batteries nor have the generator running while driving.

What I need to finish this project is my new stereo and speakers and about 15' of 10ga wire to power the amp. Got that stuff coming in via Amazon tomorrow or Wednesday. Hopefully tomorrow, but I couldn't stomach the $40 or so it would have cost to ship all that stuff next day, so it's slow-ass second day service. :lol:

I'll mention how nuts it is that I used RCA cables that previously connected an amp in the trunk of a Saab to connect an amp directly overhead. 4' out, 6' up, 4' in. Motorhomes are huge.

Godson

June 2nd, 2014, 12:19 PM

oooooh a 50 amp SPDT. I'm impressed.

thesameguy

June 2nd, 2014, 02:48 PM

Waytek stocks a 75a Picker (brand) relay, but it was $16 and a week's shipping time, and I have no patience. Not this close to the end, anyway. ;)

Godson

June 2nd, 2014, 03:13 PM

wow, that's a damn decent deal.

I could wreck all sorts of havoc with that bad boy. Truth be told though, I'd just go to the wrecker and steal a relay or two from a very as you did.

thesameguy

June 2nd, 2014, 03:23 PM

I almost went to the junkyard. When you get into interesting DIY electrical projects junkyard parts are a godsend. Kinda crazy the sort of nifty electrical gadgets are in modern cars that almost never fail, and nobody ever buys. When I found that 50a relay, I nearly shed a tear thinking about all the c900 convertibles I've just ignored in junkyards. Next time I see one, I'm taking that relay!

In that same vein, newer cars are kinda disappointing. Integrated control modules interacting with low voltage signals means a 50a relay is unlikely to exist in a new car. 140a alternator -> 200a fuse -> control module -> lots of electronic bullshit. :(

Speaking of, I took a moment to look at all the relays I saved from the 850 before having It crushed and realized Volvo didn't put schematics on *any* of them. They are all labeled with a letter which tells you where they go in the panel, but you can't tell what they do. A "J" relay might be the same as an "F" relay but there is no outward way of telling, and Volvo gets to sell two "totally different" relays rather than let owners have a generic spare. :( That's an annoying practice!

Godson

June 2nd, 2014, 03:25 PM

And that practice is why I swore off Volvo...

thesameguy

June 3rd, 2014, 02:35 PM

Ever walked by that house with the Christmas lights in the tree in June and thought, "You trashy asses, take down your Christmas lights." Or maybe you've walked by that house that got TP'd last week but still has bum wipe in the tree and thought, "Take some pride in your neighborhood, you douches."

Well, last night I finally got sick and tired of the Box of Airbags sitting in my garage. I've been tripping over it for years, thinking a) these are going to be worth something to someone and b) even if they're not, I'd feel bad about throwing them in the garbage and having them blow someone up. I'D HAD ENOUGH!

I soldered some crap wire to the terminals on the airbags, uncoiled about 50' of romex, and got to 'splodin'.

Things went pretty well, but I made a slight miscalculation, and now I have two Audi side impact airbags stuck about 50' up in my tree.

thesameguy

June 3rd, 2014, 02:53 PM

For the future. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6KOEZQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A35E7CIFWH1XOF

Godson

June 3rd, 2014, 03:09 PM

thesameguy

June 3rd, 2014, 05:54 PM

Yeah, oops.

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/audi_airbag_tree1.JPG
http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/audi_airbag_tree2.JPG

KillerB

June 3rd, 2014, 06:27 PM

Please tell me you have video evidence.

thesameguy

June 3rd, 2014, 06:37 PM

I don't. My neighbor suggested recording it, but if something went wrong I didn't want to be that idiot with video of how I blew my face off. "Crazy random accident" gets a more favorable result from insurance than "dumbass with a car battery and a half dozen airbags."

Godson

June 3rd, 2014, 11:21 PM

:lol:

Your neighbor sounds like a great dude.

KillerB

June 4th, 2014, 01:35 AM

You're just so selfish

thesameguy

June 4th, 2014, 08:39 AM

:lol:

Your neighbor sounds like a great dude.

He's a good guy for sure. Really makes up for the asshat on the other side.

Yeti

June 4th, 2014, 10:36 AM

Eh, nobody will notice those.

Random

June 4th, 2014, 06:55 PM

Parking this here for you: http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47421

thesameguy

June 4th, 2014, 07:47 PM

Nice! I really enjoy people's Falcon builds. So many neat things you can do with those cars, and IMHO the selection of body styles keeps it interesting. :) I'll definitely check in on that one - maybe it will someday compel me to register for the site. ;)

The Southwind is virtually done. All the wiring is done, head unit is in, amp is in (though not mounted to anything, and may remain that way as it's a tight fit as is), [modified] front speakers are in. A test run suggests everything works perfectly - all the electrical, all the USB, all the audio interconnects. I am happy that the 12-13 year old Sony amp still works great, and seems very happy with the Pioneer head unit and RF speakers. At 80% HU volume sound is very audible outside, and the interior is just about to unbearably loud. I didn't go past that, but at that point there is no distortion anywhere. Not as much bass as I'd hoped, but you don't get great speakers at $50/pr. Totally acceptable, however, and clean & clear which was the primary objective. A HUGE improvement over what was, and I'm confident the 40w/channel is doing things the HU's 14w/channel simply never could approach. I'm very happy with the result for the cost, and possibly even happier I was able to use stuff I'd been hoarding.

Left to do is reassemble the lower dash (which was massacred, so that might take some work), modify & install the rear speakers, and screw in The Shelf. Hmm... I neglected to fuse the stereo or amp, so I guess I should do that too. I ordered but did not install some foam baffles for the speakers, and I'll probably experiment with them a little - maybe see if they can put together some bass. If I can find a place to put one, I may stash an 8" sub somewhere and drive it with the currently unused 125w output from the amp... maybe under the couch? I guess I should pull some speaker wire down before I button everything up. And price an 8" sub+box. ;)

This was a fun project involving a lot of different skills and gave me a good opportunity to creep around the motorhome and learn stuff about it. I'm feeling a lot more confident about installing a backup camera, but I'll work on that in a few weeks, maybe in July. Next week I am going to take the Southwind to a local shop to have the brakes/steering looked at and price out having them change the transmission pan gasket and sway bar bushing - maybe have them do that too. I feel like there was one other thing... Oh, yeah, the front air bags. I don't much care about them, but if the total bill at that point isn't too much, have them replaced as well.

Godson

June 5th, 2014, 06:51 AM

Are you planning on keeping this thing now?

thesameguy

June 5th, 2014, 08:59 AM

No, definitely not.

It was always the plan to keep it for up to a year, but I will almost certainly sell it in the fall. We'll see how "camping" goes next month with it, and maybe see about some other trips later this year or early next, but I think that's unlikely. The most likely scenario is selling it in September.

thesameguy

June 5th, 2014, 12:48 PM

Got the rear speakers modified and installed - them pulled them all back out to install the foam baffles and compare. The baffles were absolutely necessary, huge improvement.

I pulled out the couch to measure the space underneath it, and the access to that space, and noticed that the entire front of the couch just hooks on. So I unhooked it, giving me free access to a couch-sized space! I slipped a 10" Polk db sub in a sealed box under there and ran some speaker wire back to the amp. I used up the sub and speaker wire - freeing up MORE space in the garage!

I really wanted to put that sub in a car, but the only cars I'd ever put it in are hatchbacks (ie, it's not going in the Fiero or Falcon) and with the dog, I hate sucking up trunk space with stuff. It's less safe and less convenient for puppy. C'est la vie, the sacrifices we make...

The Southwind now sounds GOOD. Like genuinely good. The 10" sub makes good use of the ~100w I'm feeding it. It's not crazy earth-shattering bass, but it's very musical and fills in everything I listen to. It's not strong enough to fill the bedroom, but that's ok - the entire front half of the truck is delicious. Too much power would surely result in rattles anyway. Very happy I took the extra hour to run more speaker cable and install those baffles. I could happily sit inside and just listen to tunes.

Gotta put the dash back together this evening. I'm hoping it goes back together just once more time without a fight, but somehow I doubt that'll happen. It will probably involve some fabrication as the plastic is quite wrecked.

thesameguy

June 6th, 2014, 11:41 AM

If you were an inverter, where would you be?

I think the Southwind has one. I never noticed, but the two house batteries are wired in series (+ to -), and thus making 24v. Somewhere there must be a doodad to convert that to 12v, which is what I'm getting at the electrical panel. :baffle:

Godson

June 6th, 2014, 12:14 PM

Post battery, pre panel.

Where's the panel and where are the batteries?

thesameguy

June 6th, 2014, 12:22 PM

Right next to each other. Like 1' apart. :|

Godson

June 6th, 2014, 01:35 PM

direct line ? The inverter can't be too small considering when the thing was built.

I'd bet they didn't do the "shortest string" approach. They could have ran the battery cable all over kingdom come just for the hell of it.

thesameguy

June 6th, 2014, 02:26 PM

From everything I've been able to read this isn't a stock configuration, but WTF do I know? There is a rats nest of battery cables across the front crossmember and heading underneath to the generator. I can't see what's going on there, how the batteries get to the panel.

Somewhat related: When I replaced the rear speakers the other day, I fished out somewhere in the neighborhood of 10' of wire - factory wire - that was just stuffed into the compartment. In 2014, I can't imagine anyone "throwing away" 10' of wire just on a cost basis, much less a waste/weight basis. There could be 25' of extra battery cable just hanging out, making a mess, for all I know.

thesameguy

June 6th, 2014, 03:39 PM

Derp.

The batteries are 6v, not 12v.

Godson

June 6th, 2014, 04:13 PM

:lol: derp derp

Yeti

June 8th, 2014, 09:34 AM

(check your pm's TSG)

thesameguy

June 9th, 2014, 10:58 AM

While mowing the lawn in the hellish heat yesterday it struck me that I haven't driven the SPG in probably four months. Maybe more - I seem to recall driving it a couple times in the rain, but that could have been 2013 rain for all I know. Once it started cooling down I put the car on the back lawn and washed it... I feel bad about washing a car in this drought, but I figure if I'm doing it on the lawn at least it's serving a secondary purpose. About 9pm I put the dog in the back and took it on a drive through downtown then up to the airport to pick up my star performer, returning from Vegas. A dude in a Prius waved at me while sitting and a stoplight and told me how much he liked my car, then while pumping gas an old guy in a yellow Ranger Splash told me about the Saab he had in high school - then warned me about putting jumper cables on Saabs backwards. Heh. On the way home, it occurred to me I bought my first Saab almost 20 years ago. I think it was September of '94, so that anniversary is approaching! Hard to believe I've had at least one Saab at any given moment for the past two decades - usually two and infrequently as many as eight. I still love them. Driving the SPG at night with the windows down and the sunroof open feels like home to me. If it hadn't been a Sunday night, I would have driven a lot farther than the airport. Such. Great. Cars.

thesameguy

June 9th, 2014, 01:23 PM

On the subject of great cars, three people have now approached me in the last couple months wanting to buy the Suburban. This last guy was just driving by the house and stopped to knock on the front door. All three of them mentioned they didn't at first realize it was a diesel, but when they realized it was they "just had to ask." Maybe old school diesel Suburbans will actually be worth something someday. Maybe I should treat it better? Hmmm.

thesameguy

June 9th, 2014, 02:15 PM

And, while I'm rambling, I've discovered my 1993 Fleetwood Southwind is actually a 1994 Fleetwood Southwind. I got one year for FRIZZLE!

Random

June 9th, 2014, 02:23 PM

W00!

Godson

June 9th, 2014, 02:23 PM

:lol:

thesameguy

June 10th, 2014, 11:49 AM

Here's a weird thing about motorhomes I never would have guessed:

Apparently in the '80s there were issues with people destroying transmissions by leaving motorhomes in Park with no e-brake set. The parking pawls (obviously) weren't designed to hold 12,000+ lbs of vehicle still. DUH. When they switched to the 4L80 they actually REMOVED the parking pawls from the transmissions entirely and installed a big drum brake on the driveshaft instead. There were a couple revisions to the system, but the basic idea is that when you put the transmission in park, the drum engages and holds the truck steady. On my Southwind, this system - called "auto park" - uses some big ass springs that engage the brake, and hydraulic pressure from the hydroboost system to release the brake. Basically, the brake's default position is engaged, and the only time it can be disengaged is when the engine (and thus the power steering pump) is running. In practice, putting the gear selector in Park diverts pressure away from the brake (thus engaging it), and putting the gear selector in any other position sends pressure to it (thus disengaging it). The brake is automatic with the gear selector, hence the name "auto park."

I didn't know this system even existed, but mine doesn't work properly. The only symptom I've observed is moving the selector out of park does not disengage the brake. I've not tried it the other way (putting it into park and seeing if it still moves). I'm sure this is somehow related to the groan from the power steering system, but I don't know how.

I believe the engage/disengage switch is electric, tied to the selector position switch. It obviously actuates hydraulically. My problem could be electric, but since I also have a hydraulic noise I'm inclined to believe the switch is working, but something in the hydraulics is not. Could be old fluid, aerated fluid, a weak PS pump, a collapsed hydraulic hose, a failed hydraulic relay valve, or an electric switch/sensor thingy. It's not a complex system - just a bitch to get to.

I am counting my blessings I am not dead. Apparently this system has a failure mode where hydraulic pressure is diverted from the brake WHILE MOVING. I cannot imagine the horror of spontaneous rear end lockup on something this big. A worst-case failure could be a loss of power steering, power brakes, AND the e-brake magically applying all at once. Fuuuuuuu. Sure seems like this is a problem I *need* to address.

Godson

June 10th, 2014, 01:11 PM

That system is used on semi's and whatnot. Only difference is they use air pressure to keep the brakes "off"

JoshInKC

June 10th, 2014, 01:53 PM

I am counting my blessings I am not dead. Apparently this system has a failure mode where hydraulic pressure is diverted from the brake WHILE MOVING. I cannot imagine the horror of spontaneous rear end lockup on something this big. A worst-case failure could be a loss of power steering, power brakes, AND the e-brake magically applying all at once. Fuuuuuuu. Sure seems like this is a problem I *need* to address.
Jesus, that'd be the end of the world for sure.

thesameguy

June 10th, 2014, 01:54 PM

Yeah, same basic concept - except that motorhomes wrap the components into one system yielding a single point of failure. I can't decide whether I am more surprised that "passenger vehicle" motorhomes include this type of functionality, or whether GM half-assed the functionality into one system. After GM stopped making these chassis, the autobrake system was divorced from the steering system to be more like a semi, with a dedicated pump and fluid supply. That makes more sense. Still hydraulic, but air brakes are pretty intense for common folk.

As freakish as it is to say, I definitely have a better grasp for why people who are serious about RVs skip the Cs and the common As and go for bus conversions. It's quite obvious that "passenger vehicle" motorhomes are simply too big for their britches and built one compromise on top of another. Going with a bus gets you into a vehicle designed to be as big as it is. I guess that's why those classist RV owners have the derogatory term "bread truck RVs." :D It's definitely weird having all these "like in a pickup" systems merged with "like in a house" systems. It definitely could be better for peace of mind having only "like in a bus" systems. :)

Edit: I will add that this vehicle has only "like a pickup" gauges. Sure seems like transmission temp and hydraulic pressure, amongst others, would be useful.

Random

June 10th, 2014, 07:29 PM

Would a drum brake on the prop shaft really be able to lock up the wheels at speed? Seems like you'd just get a big cloud of smoke as the shoe(s) burned off and then a nice symphony of screeching metal.

edit: Bus conversions! W00! :hard:

thesameguy

June 10th, 2014, 09:05 PM

I wondered the same thing and don't know the details, but I've read that it's happened, and I've read reports to the NHTSA that it's happened. Which reminds me of another scary scenario: Drum engages at speed, then catches on fire, then burns down the motorhome. Forgot to mention that scenario, also reported to the NHTSA.

Godson

June 10th, 2014, 09:31 PM

fuck. that. noise.

thesameguy

June 11th, 2014, 07:51 PM

My power steering/brake/autopark thing was really bugging me, so I sucked out 1.5qts of fluid from the reservoir. It was brown, aerated, water-thin, and somewhat overfilled. I replaced it with a quart of new synthetic power steering fluid, ran the engine, then did the same thing again. Fluid came out clean, but aerated and runny again. I started the engine, the whining from the PS pump that had been there seemed much quieter (but still audible), so I started messing with the brakes and steering wheel. That seemed good, but when I released the parking brake with my foot on the service brake it got REALLY loud. Admittedly, the engine cover was open and the PS pump was 2' from my ear, but it was LOUD. Not ideal. I shut back down, sucked about 12oz out, and replaced it with 12oz of Lucas Power Steering Conditioner. I had some doubts about using it in a system with hydroboost, but figured if there was a problem with that combination I would have heard about by now or Lucas would have a warning on the bottle. Hydraulics is hydraulics, right?

I started it up again and put my foot on the service brake and released the parking brake. There was the terrible noise for a second, the silence. Utter silence. I turned the steering wheel and applied the brakes and... silence. That lead me to two possibilities: Either the power steering fluid is old and broken down and has an extremely low viscosity, or the pump is weak and isn't doing a good job with reasonable fluid. The VIs in the Lucas stuff made up the difference, everything is hunky dory.

Today I spent a little time researching:

1. How hard it is to flush the power steering system
2. How hard it is to replace the pump
3. Experiences with Lucas goop and hydroboost

I came away with this knowledge:

1. People have had this problem, replaced the pump and flushed the fluid and ended up with it worse than it was before
2. People use Lucas products in hydroboost systems without ill effect, including one guys who recommends de facto adding one two quarts of it to hydroboost systems
3. The GM hydroboost system was barely adequate for RV steering & RV brakes, and adding the volume/pressure requirements of autopark blow it out of the water

So, maybe there is nothing to be done here other than run the Lucas product, or maybe try some High Mileage ATF with a creepy-high base viscosity. Since I have the Lucas goop in there already, I know what I'm rolling with. :lol: It goes into the shop tomorrow, so I'll drive it around a little beforehand and see if it stays fixed.

The shop's mission will be:

1. Check the brakes
2. Render an opinion on the noise by inspecting the hydraulics (*praying* they have a line pressure tester)
3. Provide a quote on replacing the swaybar bushings, ATF fluid/filter change, replacing the front airbags
4. Maybe doing the work in #3, unless they want to charge a fortune in which case I'll do it. It's $150 in parts and probably six hours of work for me in my driveway. If they can do it for under $800, I'll probably have them do it.

I also received this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6KOEZQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and did I half-assed test install of it today. The wireless link is a little iffy at 30' - with the transmitter outside the rig and the receiver behind the LCD, signal isn't great. Moving the transmitter up to the window and ensuring the antennas are aligned makes a big difference. I think with the transmitter inside the cabin it'll be okay. The picture isn't perfect - and I'm sure being standard def B&W over wireless on an HDTV isn't helping. But, it's very usable and the thing does seem to have a good field of view. I installed the receiver, but still need to play with placement of the camera itself and transmitter. I can definitely see why people use multiple cameras - there really isn't place that can capture both right behind the rear bumper and overhead things you might crash into. I'm trying to decide which is more important.

I bought this particular setup mostly for the wireless but - it was $15 for the wireless stuff, and $25 for the wireless stuff plus the camera, so I figured it was worth $10 to see if the camera will do the job. My plan is to power the transmitter and camera off the reverse lights, so they're only on when the thing is in reverse. I wasn't sure that would be useful, that maybe there'd be a delay between powering up the transmitter and link. It seems to work great, though. It takes maybe two seconds for them to link, which is just fine. The backup screen in the rental CTSs I used to get took much longer than that just to pop out of the dash. :lol:

A concern I didn't have but now do is that the receiver seems to get quite warm. I'd intended on leaving it powered up whenever the TV was on, but it seems that might not be a great idea. I may need to add a switch to turn it on and off. :( OTOH, Amazon will probably warranty it for a year, so if it burns up within that time... maybe I don't care. :D

What I do know is that my TV setup + backup camera is fugging awesome. Even with an imperfect field of view and technically crappy resolution it's still awesomely functional, and should make going backwards and doing sweet j turns MUCH easier.

Random

June 11th, 2014, 09:12 PM

Behind the bumper is more important (IMO).

Overhead items should be looked at in your pre-backing scout trip. You'll be able to keep track of them in the side mirrors.

thesameguy

June 12th, 2014, 12:55 PM

I think that makes good sense. I think I'm hyper-sensitive to the backup issue because getting the thing in the driveway involves navigating through some trees and such.

I took the Southwind to Overstreet Auto Repair this morning, and they seem pretty cool. The front desk lady regaled us with stories about her dog (who was in the office, and does appear to be pretty awesome) and I had a few minutes to chat with one of the techs about the power steering pump situation. He echoed some of the things I'd read, and confirmed from his experience others. Made me happy that he understood the system components and could share some experience about dealing with them. Also, there were probably five other RVs and several school busses there and I learned they are one of the few shops in the area that have a full commercial vehicle lift, so they can actually put RVs up in the air. Although I still have a nervousness about paying someone else to fix my cars, at least I have some comfort that these folks are equipped to do the job. Their mission is a "safety inspection" and a call back with a quote on anything that needs addressing, including the swaybar bushings, transmission pan, front air bags, and the power steering pump noise. They gave no estimate on turnaround, but I don't need it back for two or three weeks. In the interim, the driveway looks REALLY empty.

thesameguy

June 25th, 2014, 09:25 PM

Got in touch with the Overstreet guys last week.

New urethane swaybar bushings = $144 installed
The transmission leak is from the selector shaft seal, $230 with new fluid, new seal, new pan gasket
Both front airbags are indeed cracked, $422 for two new ones installed
The serpentine belts are either wrong or improperly installed, $120 to fix

This represents about $220 in parts and $700 in labor. That's a lot of labor - I really would have liked to do it myself especially with the big outlay for the dog. Unfortunately care for her is the priority right now so I'm having them do the work. It's only money - and I guess why I save for a rainy day. On the upside, I don't have to spend any time under a motorhome - especially the bit about installing the air bags. That is a no-fun job.

June 26th, 2014, 06:32 AM

:up:

Random

July 8th, 2014, 12:29 PM

Nevermind. That was a pretty shitty "install" blog. Carry on!

Random

July 9th, 2014, 11:49 AM

Sac Zoo Thursday night car shows are ongoing:

July 17 - Rockabilly Night
Live music by: The Nickelslots
Car show featuring: Kustoms and Rat Rods
Dinner special: Beer battered deep fried hot dogs with fries

Register your show car early for extra value!
Pre-Registration is $10 per vehicle; car entry includes admission for four that night, six ride tickets good for the carousel or the train, 10% off purchases at the Zoofari Market and 10% off at Kampala Café! Pre-Registration cut-off is 5pm the day before the event. Cars arrive at the front entrance of the Zoo between 4 pm and 5 pm. Space is limited; advance registration is recommended.
Registration after 5pm the day before the event is $10 per vehicle and includes four admissions for that night.

Call (916) 808-5888 to reserve your spot today!

thesameguy

July 9th, 2014, 11:59 AM

Yeah, I got the email. Sadly '14 is going to be yet another year where circumstances prevent my attendance. :(

Random

July 9th, 2014, 12:04 PM

Boooooooooooo.

thesameguy

July 9th, 2014, 04:39 PM

Yeah, for real. Believe me when I say the zoo is about the least of the things I am missing this summer. Big pile of fail.

OTOH, I'm going to have no shortage of stuff to do this fall. :|

Random

July 9th, 2014, 09:55 PM

Sounds ominous. :|

thesameguy

July 9th, 2014, 10:19 PM

A lot will depend on how quickly I recover from [currently] $6000 worth of vet bills, how quickly I am able to or decide to sell the Southwind, and how much Burning Man ends up costing. Worst case scenario, I have nothing to do and lots of places to collect dust. Best case scenario it's a lot of work and a lot of awesome. :) Raises were handed out today and I was not overlooked, so that's at least something.

Random

July 9th, 2014, 10:20 PM

Ah--that doesn't sound quite as ominous. :up:

thesameguy

July 10th, 2014, 02:37 PM

In the chaos surrounding Sammy I forgot to get the motorhome insured. DMV sent me a nastygram reminder.

Adding the beast to my policy (which is liability only, but with very high limits) is $190/yr. Adding it with comprehensive coverage is a whopping $250/yr. Man, for all the destructive capabilities and stupid-high repair costs, RVs are really affordable to insure. I think I'm going to start daily driving it.

Random

July 18th, 2014, 08:16 AM

712

Rat rod headers. :cool:

Random

July 18th, 2014, 08:18 AM

713

Rat rod headers. :cool:

thesameguy

July 18th, 2014, 10:48 AM

I need to learn to weld. Although I am not sure my spatial recognition is that good!

Godson

July 18th, 2014, 08:23 PM

I'd rather just buy the damned things.

speedpimp

July 19th, 2014, 05:18 PM

Fitting that a rat rod's headers look like a rat's nest.

thesameguy

July 19th, 2014, 07:47 PM

Fiero's clutch slave cylinder failed. New part was a whopping $40. Took about 20 minutes to replace and bleed. Impossible to beat.

Unfortunately, the fluid line on my pressure bleeder didn't survive the process. It broke at the bottle end AND the fitting end. Thankfully, it broke as I disconnected it rather than during the process, so whatever. I just need to order some new vinyl (?) hose.

I spent the last hour comparing roadside assistance plans for RVs... the big players being Coach Net, Good Sam, and AAA. Read reviews, websites, anecdotes. Decided on Coach Net - whose parent company is National Motor Club of California, Inc. - and started filling out the registration, only to find National Motor Club of California, Inc. does not provide service in California. WTF??

Godson

July 20th, 2014, 09:45 AM

I bet there is a law there somewhere that says they can't.

thesameguy

July 21st, 2014, 09:29 AM

Yeah, but why bother having a presence in a state that is fairly unfriendly to business if you're not going to actually do business there. Seems very weird.

In other news, I am gearing up to buy a new OBDII tool. I don't remember exactly when I bought it, but I remember spending a pretty penny on my Autotap figuring it was computer-based and would be relevant for a long time. Its functionality is increasingly retarded, totally failing to communicate with newer vehicles and having huge gaps in its protocol support. My best guess is I got it in '07 or '08, and frankly I don't feel like it's been a legitimately long time. The software itself hasn't been updated since '09. Very disappointed in that investment. The manufacturer still exists and is doing ok, but doesn't respond to inquiries about the product any more - they are, apparently, totally done with it. Autotap's increasing irrelevance coupled with the huge strides in these tools has caused me to go looking.

What I want is one of the tablet type devices like an Autel Maxisys or Launch X431, but dropping a grand on this just can't be justified. So, I'm looking at the more appliance-y ones.

Autel MaxiDiag 802 - http://www.auteltech.com/autelcms/Professional%20Scan%20Tools/368.jhtml
Launch CR129 - http://www.launchtechusa.com/assets/products/CRP129.pdf

Leaning towards the Autel, as Launch has continually had weird issues. Nobody else plays in this arena (low-end professional tools/high-end consumer tools) except Innova, and their tools apparently have issues like Launch.

The Autel's packaging is confusing, coming in a "4 system" and an "all system" version - maybe. Depends on who you talk to. What I can't figure out is what the actual difference between the 4 system (engine+trans+SRS+ABS) and the all system (engine+trans+SRS+ABS). WTF?

thesameguy

July 22nd, 2014, 09:12 AM

Okay, I think I found the answer - the "all system" version of the Autel also talks to certain BCMs, like climate control or power locks. The way it works is:

4-System, via a questionable vendor (probably a Chinese knockoff) = $260
All System, via a questionable vendor = $300
All System, via a qualified reseller = $450

The knockoffs broadly work (so I've read...), but may or may not have warranty coverage and may or may not be register-able for updates. I'm really torn between spending $150+ for updates & warranty - because everything I'm going to do with this is going to be on older cars anyway, and because based on my last experience with a "lasting" diagnostic tool, it ain't gonna last anyway. Maybe put that $150 in the bank and just buy another knockoff in two years. Anecdotally, in reading about these low/mid diagnostic tools there are a lot of complaints from people who bought Product v1 only to have v2 come out a year later and support for v1 dwindle. There simply may be no point in buying a product that is only in theory updatable.

Still pondering... not doing anything for at a month or two anyway. I have more pressing responsibilities:

The motorhome drives a lot better with functional front airbags and a functional front swaybar. It's still not razor-sharp handling (or even butter-sharp), but it's a world of difference. The Lucas goop I added to the power steering helped the power steering noise dramatically, and the brakes and autopark seem much happier. I'm not convinced as to the longevity of the improvement, and the last thing I need is a brake or steering or both failure while sitting in traffic on the playa. In my investigation of this situation, what I've noticed is that the system has absolutely no cooler. Every modern vehicle with hydroboost has some sort of fluid cooler - hell, even the XR4Ti has a loop of hard line in the fender to cool the fluid. What I'm planning on doing is installing heat exchanger into the fluid return line, which will give me the opportunity to get a lot of the old fluid out and hopefully reduce overheating in the future.

I have no clue on how big a fluid cooler for this application should be. I looked at the factory coolers on modern HD trucks (Ford, Chevy, etc.) and none of them are very big. The motorhome has a lot more weight on the tires and beyond the hydroboost has the autopark servo which is under high pressure any time the thing is in gear - that seems like a lot of heat production. Obviously, the system on the motorhome was designed to work without one - but OTOH the system doesn't work very well for very long either! I don't know how to strike a balance between "extended fluid life" and "creating extra work for the pump with cold fluid." I'm leaning towards the B&M 70273:

http://www.bmracing.com/product_images-high/70273.jpg

which should be rated for about 12,000btu. It's *probably* overkill, but maybe not a bad deal considering where this thing is going. It's about four times the size of the power steering cooler we used on the Lemons car (which was from a Ford truck), and I think quite a bit more efficient. I realize a Saab is not exactly comparable to a motorhome, but at AMP (turn turn turn turn turn) we baked power steering fluid in a day - so maybe the effect is comparable. That cooler, a couple 1/2" NPT-> 5/8" hose barb fittings, and some power steering hose and that's it. The cooler is only $60, so if it turns out to be too much or too little it's not a huge loss & I'll be able to re-use the routing anyway.

I'm also considering half-assing the dash AC. There is some charge left in the system - depressing the Shraeder valve makes cold goo come out - so I'm looking at adding some Enviro-Safe hydrocarbon-based refrigerant and seeing if I can bring it back to life. If it lasts a month, that's all that matters. Unfortunately I don't know what the capacity of the system is, but I can guess using system pressure and a thermometer. It ain't by the book, but neither is mixing R12 and propane. Soooooooo.... $10 in refrigerant and a $25 hose set (my hose set is for R134a and won't connect to an R12-based system) should do it.

I also need to finish mounting the backup camera and *probably* get a pair of front tires...

I still want to improve the solar situation, but I'm pretty much out of time and definitely out of money. Functional brakes and tires are probably going to trump a solar installation at this point.

Godson

July 22nd, 2014, 09:17 PM

Get a temp Senosr to run in fluid. That way you can actually know if you are in or out of the fluid temp range before you spend the money on a cooler that creates more issues (possibly).

That is a tool you could use over and over.

thesameguy

July 23rd, 2014, 07:03 AM

I am 100% confident the system bakes fluid - certainly not instantly, but in a shorter than normal period of time. All the '90s trucks that have hydroboost added a power steering fluid cooler and there are numerous threads all over the place where people talk about upgrading them on pickups & SUVs that do a lot of heavy duty work (towing, etc.). There's no way a motorhome is easier on fluids than a full size pickup and shouldn't have had a cooler from the get-go. I think this generation of motorhome (that is, the last of them built on 1960's chassis) were just so band-aided together they weren't doing anymore development and everything was done on the cheap. The generation of motorhome immediately following this one has a totally isolated autopark system - the brakes/steering are one pump/reservoir, the autopark is another. I'm sure that's because combined, they were overtaxing the pump and fluid.

I imagine I could just flush the system and put good new fluid in and it'd be fine, but the work necessary to install the cooler will actually make the flush easier (that is, extending the return hose) and at that point it's ~$72 to add the cooler & fittings. I'll never reap the benefits of the upgrade, but maybe it'll help resale?

I do like the sensor idea... the only crappy thing is using it will create a lot of work. I'll have to run it before the cooler install to get a baseline and then again after to find the improvement. Maybe I could just put a thermometer in the reservoir? I would like to know what's been accomplished.

Godson

July 23rd, 2014, 08:52 AM

I meant on the side of figuring out how large of a cooler you need to run.

thesameguy

July 23rd, 2014, 09:23 AM

OIC. Well, that too! :lol:

I'd have no idea how to even start that math. Something about btu per hour I dunno.

Godson

July 24th, 2014, 09:18 AM

I am sure you could ask an engineer. Or there might be a formula to figure that out.

thesameguy

July 24th, 2014, 02:06 PM

Haha. Math. Yeah, right.

thesameguy

July 27th, 2014, 08:28 PM

I got the cooler installed on the RV yesterday. It wouldn't really fit where I'd intended on putting it, so I relocated it to a hidden spot and then made a semi-sweet duct out of scrap aluminum to get air to it. It's slightly ghetto looking, but knowing how much work went into it (about 10 minutes with some tin snips) makes it pretty impressive.

Sadly, I think it was primarily giant waste of effort. There are some details about this hydraulic system which continue to evade me, and apparently everyone else in the world, too. Seems like about NOTHING goes through the reservoir, Like, nothing. The system just recirculates fluid within itself rather than through the reservoir like a convention system - the only thing the reservoir does is handle expansion and gives the fluid for the autopark system a place to go. I won't go into the details of exactly how I came to understand this, but suffice to say there are the remnants of a toxic waste dump on my driveway where half a gallon of power steering fluid ended up.

I couldn't handle being in the sun anymore so I stopped working on it, but I am going to see if there is a way to stick the cooler between the pump and the steering gear instead. I don't think there is, and moreover I'm not sure it's a good idea putting the cooler in such a high pressure location. So, maybe it will just sit there and be mostly wasteful or maybe I will pull it back out. I dunno yet. On the upside, I'm pretty sure all the old fluid is now out of the system and I was able to bleed the autopark - these efforts weren't totally wasted. It needs some road time - probably happen next weekend.

I finished putting the dash back together - the holdup was all the plastic had been destroyed by previous dash work. The "design" was seriously pathetic, with fairly large self tapping screws digging into 1/8" thick plastic and holding everything together. I made some aluminum rails to reinforce the dash - now it all holds together brilliantly. It's slightly tougher to reassemble, but an extra 20 minutes doing that once in a blue moon really just doesn't concern me.

Still a fair amount of work to do on this thing - but it's road-ready now if none of that pans out. I hope. Assuming the steering and brakes still work after today's adventure. DOH!

Moved my activities into the garage, where the XR4Ti has been sleeping for, I think two years. Ah, SUCK. I figured out where the Setrab oil cooler was going, mounted it, made some AN -10 lines to connect it to the thermostatic sandwich plate by the filter, and decided I'm going to totally skip making the air guide I'd planned to for now. The situation is no worse than it's been for years, and it's been fine. Nothing needs to come apart to design & install it anyway, so there is no economy in doing it now.

A quick once-over revealed this car is amazingly close to done. New cooling lines made & installed, new intercooler modified and installed, oil cooler installed, new exhaust ported/coated manifold installed, new hybrid turbo installed, all turbo ducting fabbed & installed, new power steering pump and rack installed. I think - think - what's left is half a dozen hose clamps, fluids, adjusting the turbo wastegate, changing the diff oil, and either modifying my current radiator fan setup or wholesale placement of it. Oh, and praying the cooling system, steering system, and lubrication system are all leak free. Lots and lots of praying. I think that represents probably two weeks of work - about six hours with tools, and the remainder for prayer. I'm hoping maybe the 9th or 10th I'll be able to start it. Fingers crossed.

And then I plan to redo the battery cables , but that won't be too big of a deal. The primary holdup on the battery cables is actually tooling. I need that stuff for the Fleetwood as well, it's just a fairly significant expenditure. That isn't going to happen til September or October, but it's certainly drivable with it's current battery situation.

Oh, yeah, it's definitely going to need tires. I think the NRZs are 11 or 12 years old now. Heh.

thesameguy

July 28th, 2014, 09:52 AM

The Southwind's power steering cooler:

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_pscooler.jpg

I will mention the cooler is doing *something*, as it gets hot... it's just not radiating an optimal amount of heat out of the system.

thesameguy

July 29th, 2014, 09:50 AM

The XR's oil cooler tucked behind the bumper:

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_oilcooler1.jpg

It's slightly off center to let the hoses have a relaxed approach, but fits absolutely perfectly. I may yet want to support it from underneath, but I don't think it's necessary. The hoses themselves are mostly tucked behind the bumper:

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_oilcooler2.jpg

The mounts are made from 1" square tube aluminum, secured directly to the underside of the bumper. The core is using it's rubber pads to help isolate vibration, which is nice.

The hoses snake around the front bulkhead, over the power steering rack, hug the block, then loop up to the oil filter housing. It's about perfect.

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_oilcooler3.jpg

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_oilcooler4.jpg

Everything is AN -10, so should provide plenty of flow and very low pressure drop. Pressure drop is important on the XR, as it has a pretty weak oil pump and due to its drive mechanism (a 5/16" shaft off the distributor, just like the Falcon!) there is zero opportunity to install a better pump. Trying to do that results in either twisting the drive shaft, rounding out the distributor or shearing the teeth off the aux shaft. I chose this particular cooler because it was the best mix of size and pressure drop characteristics. Ah, compromise! No matter, it's a huge improvement over the stock oil:water exchanger, and will easily support my power goals for the car. Easily.

-----

Last night I busted out the backup camera on the Southwind. I was a little intimidated drilling blindly into the rear cap (not having a clue what was there) but I made an educated guess and nothing bad happened. :)

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_camera.jpg

I ended up cutting the connector (a 1/8" stereo headphone jack) to minimize the size of the hole I had to drill. Yeah, it's a license plate camera so it looks just a tad goofy up there, but it was $25 including the wireless transceiver so that's life. I care an immeasurable amount. Right now, it's just taped up there but I'll put a couple screws in it once I'm satisfied it's doing the job. The data cable goes into cabinets over the rear bed. Power comes from the reverse light, into the water storage compartment, and then up through the floor under a bed. I'm still playing with transceiver placement, but if I have to leave everything where it is, it's fine!

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_cameraday.jpg

A very satisfactory image for $25! The top of the monitor is exactly 10' away from the rear bumper. The bottom of the monitor is the rear bumper. If something outside is "touching" the bottom of the monitor, it's been hit. :lol: The lines superimposed on the display represent approximate 1.3' increments, so the third line is almost exactly 4' away from the bumper. I like having the bumper as a reference point, though I may end up pointing the camera up a little more to ensure I can reconcile what I see in the mirrors with what I see on the camera. I'm not sure yet, I haven't done a lot of backing up.

This particular camera was not only the cheapest wireless camera, but also about the cheapest camera with IR capability. Double win! It's a little fuzzy, but is completely usable at night with only the reverse lights for light:

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/southwind_cameranight.jpg

I don't know this, but I feel like I could have spent 4x this amount and 10x the install effort for a barely improved result. I'm satisfied!

-----

This weekend we are going to try and cram a king-sized mattress into the back of the motorhome, I'll finalize the backup camera transceiver's position, and hopefully spend an hour or two securing hoses and stuff on the XR and putting a little thought into the cooling fan scenario. I've been happy with my repurposed Saab fans, but I'm thinking about caving in and buying some newer fans. Saab fans are getting scarce, and aftermarket fans will probably fit slightly better. It'd be great if I could find a fan+shroud setup from a modern car, but I don't think the XR's radiator is similar enough in size to anything worthwhile. We'll see...

Random

July 29th, 2014, 10:18 AM

That camera alignment sounds perfect to me.

edit: I feel like we had this discussion once before, but Taurus fans seem pretty popular as the cheap junkyard alternative to aftermarket e-fans.

thesameguy

July 29th, 2014, 10:29 AM

Yeah, the Taurus shroud is not even remotely the right size. I tried that years ago. I also have a depth limitation - only a few inches between the radiator and the water pump pulley. Another stupid problem the XR has in common with the Falcon. Heh.

Random

July 29th, 2014, 10:31 AM

Ah, roger that.

Godson

July 29th, 2014, 01:12 PM

Spal makes some SOLID shit.

I have never needed to replace any SPAL unit.

thesameguy

July 29th, 2014, 02:07 PM

Yeah, I'd just really like to a) work in a shroud, and b) not use those damned through-radiator plastic holder thingies. Definitely on the table though. I originally used the Saab fans because I had them sitting around, but every day Saab parts become more scarce and having a spare set of working fans for the SPG would not be a bad idea. I've spread out the costs of this work over two years, so a couple hundred bucks on fans is not going to be an issue. :sadbanana:

thesameguy

July 30th, 2014, 10:45 AM

For the record, the XR's radiator is 25" wide and 13" tall, with a 1" "lip" on the bottom. So I could run dual 12" fans - maybe someone makes such a shroud.

Random

July 30th, 2014, 03:12 PM

Something like this might work, though it looks like the mounting tabs would need modification. http://www.slimfan.com/92_00_Honda_Radiator_Fan_Shroud_p/hondashroud.htm

thesameguy

July 30th, 2014, 03:40 PM

Great minds!

I found this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmfs-pro-03/overview/

It's 2" too wide, but the shroud is aluminum. I am sure I could section it and fasten it back together.

The mounting is utterly and completely wrong. And actually I'm not sure how to mount anything to the radiator anyway... there are tabs at the bottom, but absolutely nothing else. The answer might be screws in the bottom, and those plastic through-core doodads at the top. The screw will support most of the weight.

I wonder if I have 3.5" of depth. I think so.

thesameguy

July 31st, 2014, 09:02 AM

Put a little more time into the XR last night, hose clamps and setting the wastegate mostly. Then I remember another challenge I have - in this moment, I think the final actual challenge. My thermostat housing.

I replaced it years ago with a wonderful cast aluminum piece because the factory is cast iron part is prone to warping and leaking. The aluminum pieces uses a sweet o-ring seal and never leaks. Unfortunately, the dude who made the aluminum version - I'm sure - made it for him because the heater bypass is an inane size. The factory bypass is 5/8", and the hole on the aluminum thing is 1/4" NPT. There is no such thing as a 1/4" NPT to 5/8" hose barb. I've been using a miraculous hose from an Isuzu Rodeo that's 5/8" on one side and 1/2" on the other and it works, but it's ugly and fits so poorly I'm afraid I will spontaneously fail (including the possibility of being ground up by the cam belt). I'd like to get rid of it. I can go buy a newer version of the housing for later Lima-powered Mustang, but then I lose the spot for my VDO temp gauge... so I'd really like to fix the aluminum part.

I took it over to a machine shop. I think what has to happen is the old hole needs to be welded shut and then the thing redrilled and tapped. We'll see what happens...

thesameguy

August 5th, 2014, 01:04 PM

I am sad about the state of NPT fittings. I need a couple that seem like they should exist, but they just don't... at least in metal. I've found exactly what I need in PE, but I'm not sure how well it'll stand up to a vehicle's cooling system. I thought a lot of parts in modern cooling systems were made of HDPE, but all the stuff I've found is only rated to 190-200 deg F, which is a fair amount lower than average cooling system temps. Maybe the things I thought were HDPE are nylon or something?

thesameguy

August 5th, 2014, 01:26 PM

How is fittingsandnipples.com anything but a sex site?

Godson

August 5th, 2014, 05:56 PM

hehehe. Dissapointed?

thesameguy

August 6th, 2014, 08:52 AM

Only sort of, because they did indeed have all the fittings and nipples I needed and they're all on a truck heading for me now.

speedpimp

August 6th, 2014, 03:22 PM

Give River Bend Hose (http://www.riverbendhose.com/) a try. I worked there for eleven years and they should have the fittings that you need.

thesameguy

August 6th, 2014, 06:20 PM

Very cool - do you know if they were mail order custom hose assemblies?

thesameguy

August 11th, 2014, 11:54 AM

Yesterday I bit the bullet and hooked up a can of "EnviroSafe" to the AC system in the Southwind. "EnviroSafe" is a hydrocarbon based refrigerant, which exists in a grey area of legality. Its primary downside, and historic reason for questionable legality, is its flammability... however it's been shown repeatedly that in real-world conditions the definitely legal refrigerants are every bit as flammable - that is, they're not. It seems the real reason for the status of hydrocarbon based refrigerants is that DuPoint Corporation doesn't make money off them. Because they aren't ozone depleting, they aren't abnormally flammable, they are cheap to produce, and they work every bit as well as DuPont's stuff at lower system pressures. So, go lobbyists!

I chose EnviroSafe because there was some R12 charge in the Southwind, but I didn't know how much. Not enough to make the AC work, anyway. I could have taken it to a shop and had them recover the R12, test the system, given them $100 and then figured out the next step... or I could buy three cans of EnviroSafe for $18 and hope for the best. I put about a half can in the system, the AC kicked on, system pressure stabilized, and the air got really cold. Upside: At the moment, I have working dash AC. I feel good it will continue to work as it clearly had kept a good charge all these years. If it does leak out, I have two and a half cans I can easily add back in to keep it working. :up: Downside: Now my R12 system is totally contaminated and nobody will service it without charging to evacuate the system first. My caring level is immeasurably small. Working AC for what amounts to $3 is made of win.

I think now, the Southwind is 100% ready to go. All concerns addressed, time to start packing.

I may actually see how hard it is to charge the AC in the Fiero. I don't need EnviroSafe sitting around the garage, and the Fiero is the only other car I own with an R12 AC system. The XR and SPG had their AC systems removed a decade ago.

thesameguy

September 9th, 2014, 01:15 PM

On a side note, we never needed the AC in the motorhome in Nevada. We didn't actually use it til we got back to Sacramento and went to pick up the dog - and it still worked. RAD.

We had some problems with the motorhome - thankfully none of them involving engine, steering, or brakes so no worries there.

Propane: A small electric solenoid right off the tank would not open, and I couldn't figure out what controlled it. In the end, I used some spare wire (always bring spare wire!) to take 12v from the coach batteries back to the valve and hold it open. Research upon return shows this valve was part of a propane leak detector installed somewhere in the coach. I found it on Monday, stuffed into a wall and covered up with a piece of plastic. Not sure why, doesn't matter. I removed the valve entirely and now everything works. I do need to replace the propane detector for safety reasons, I'm just torn on whether to integrate it with an auto shutoff valve. It's not a money decision, but rather a reliability decision - folks say the auto valves were never reliable in the first place.

Generator: Starter solenoid failed. My "fix" wasn't terribly convenient, but it worked - and I've got a burn on my index finger to prove it. Turns out even a little 4k generator starter draws a lot of amps, and holding two wires together to run a starter makes that point of contact hot. Weird, right? Anywho, need a new solenoid.

Solar panel: There is a factory installed 5w solar panel on the roof, "integrated" with the coach AC unit. A small LED lights to show it's charging, and it worked when we bought it. The LED no longer seems to light, but I think everything is working - there is variable voltage coming off the panel (8-22v) and 12v on the other side, leading back to the SOLAR fuse and coach battery. What I don't get is that there is no charge controller between the two, and the LED is connected in the middle of the (+) wire - one side to the panel, the other to the battery. I think the intention is that when battery voltage drops below "x" current can flow from the panel to the battery? I'm just not that good at electronics. I feel like that's a dumb solution, and a real charge controller should be in the mix. Maybe it's not important on such a small panel? Even if that's true, it seems dumb to have to wait until the battery is very low to begin charging when all you've got is a tiny 5w panel. I think this needs to be addressed.

Other observations resulting from spending time in/with it:

The batteries and cables are in bad shape. There is a chance the coach batteries are original, but 20 years seems crazy for batteries, even in California. More likely they're from 2004, so they're still ten years old. The chassis battery is an Optima Red Top, which is suffering from EXACTLY the same thing every other Optima Red Top I've ever bought suffers from - an inability to hold a full charge, or a charge for very long. It never charges above ~11.8v, and it will only hold 11.8v for about three days. After five it's down to 10v. Very annoying. The cables are of random lengths with beat up eyelets. I feel this all needs to be addressed, but I'm not sure I'm up for spending $500 on this thing's electrical system.

The power steering pump is still wonky. I gotta believe at this point that it's the pump. The fluid is beautiful, and there is no way air survived all my flushing attempts and my road trip - and the symptoms are way too reliably produced with heat to be a function of air. I think the pump has had it. Replacement isn't expensive, but looks messy. At least the fluid is clean.

So, I'm staring down the barrel of about a grand work of work which would bring my investment in this thing to about $9600. I'm not sure I want to throw another grand at it because I'm not sure I'm going to keep it. That said, with the work done I'm confident it's worth $8k, and $1600 is about what I would have spent renting a motorhome for Burning Man so I feel like I'm still ahead... having it sitting in the driveway before and after the event took mountains of stress out of packing and cleaning that we would have had to deal with on a rental. And, I've learned a lot along the way. Still very much a win, no regrets.

Random

October 3rd, 2014, 08:39 AM

Any thoughts on the relative merits of the Sacto PnP vs Rancho Cordova (vs. Fairfield). Farifield and Sacto appear to have larger numbers of Focii, for whatever reason.

4.5Gen Camrys are in PnP's "Premium" group. :lol:

thesameguy

October 3rd, 2014, 10:07 AM

Each yard definitely ends up with a different concentration of car types. I don't really know why. I just use the online inventory thing and sometimes row52.com to narrow down models... you can't tell on PnP's website the trim of a car, but with row52 you can usually figure it out from the pictures. FWIW, my experience is that the Rancho yard is way more picked over then Fairfield. If Fairfield has, in theory, the car, it's more likely to be more intact there than Rancho.

Random

October 3rd, 2014, 10:19 AM

thesameguy

October 3rd, 2014, 11:01 AM

Yeah - and further proof the LWB cars were cursed from the beginning!

Godson

October 3rd, 2014, 10:25 PM

Car-part.com is another good source.

thesameguy

October 13th, 2014, 02:29 PM

I am slowly coming to grips with replacing the Suburban. It's in full-on deterioration mode right now and years of maintenance neglect is starting to pile up. This is my favorite generation of Suburbans and I have a 25 year history with this particular truck but I am having a tough time with the amount of money and time it's going to need. It's an easy $1000-$1500, and it'll still have ugly paint and a ratty interior. Despite a high degree of sentimentality towards it, I really look at more as a means to an end - unlike the Falcon or Fiero which I own pretty much purely for fun. And, even if I addressed all of its short-term needs (tires and steering, mostly) I'd still have a really old truck with relatively poor towing capability and 100k on a diesel engine that really wasn't that popular in the first place and is expensive to repair. For three grand I can find a SEFI GMT400 truck and for five or six a GMT800 with a 6.0l... and both of those trucks are very likely to still have pretty decent interiors.

The idea of not having the ol' diesel makes me feel uneasy... It's hard to just walk away from a 25 year "investment." I know I shouldn't be sentimental about cars, but I am. :|

thesameguy

October 13th, 2014, 02:46 PM

Also, this is one of those times when old Falcons are fetching crazy money, and I'm strongly inclined to take advantage.

Random

October 13th, 2014, 04:01 PM

You should totally sell both. If nothing else, your search for replacements will generate conversation for weeks! :D

Kchrpm

October 13th, 2014, 05:29 PM

What he said :up:

thesameguy

October 13th, 2014, 06:47 PM

It's fairly unlikely I'd get rid of the current truck before finding its replacement. The idea of being Suburban-less is tantamount to being Saab-less. ;)

Godson

October 13th, 2014, 07:39 PM

I think you should look for a denali like mine ;)

thesameguy

October 13th, 2014, 07:47 PM

I've thought about it because I really like those trucks, but I don't need AWD and I prefer the additional size of the Suburban. It's a big part of why I dumped the Tahoe a couple years ago - just not quite big enough inside.

thesameguy

November 3rd, 2014, 03:05 PM

I bought another Jag. Heh.

Random

November 3rd, 2014, 03:16 PM

With a V12 perhaps? :D

thesameguy

November 3rd, 2014, 03:25 PM

No, NA V8. It's in really poor shape. I'm going to take it apart and learn some stuff, maybe make some money. I wasn't really interested in it so I lowballed the seller figuring he'd say no, but he said ok. $600 for an '03 XJ8 ain't bad. It should easily be worth 3x that in parts, maybe more. Surewhynot.

Random

November 3rd, 2014, 03:26 PM

Nice!

thesameguy

November 3rd, 2014, 03:42 PM

I'm not mad at it. But I can't help but think about cars that would accommodate the V8. ;) Really, though, for its theoretical price tag I'd pretty much be universally better off selling it and buying something more common. Maybe something that starts with L and S. ;)

Random

November 3rd, 2014, 03:49 PM

LeSabre?

Kchrpm

November 3rd, 2014, 04:02 PM

Lexus SC400
Lancia Stratos
Lister Storm

thesameguy

November 3rd, 2014, 05:22 PM

It's none of those, but keep guessing and I am sure someone will get it.

Another upside of this encounter is that this car was supposed to be a flip, it just went wrong. But the dude seems cool, and he said I can use him to source other vehicles and just pay a finder's fee. His first missions are to keep an eye out for a GM vehicle with a swap motor for the Fiero, and a Ford or Mazda vehicle with a Duratec for the Falcon. I used to work with this guy Paul in a similar capacity and it was great. I am hoping maybe meeting Daniel can pay off similarly. :up:

Godson

November 3rd, 2014, 07:44 PM

HOW MUCH?

I'm fucking jealous.

Godson

November 3rd, 2014, 07:45 PM

Lincoln LS....

Run the fuck away.

Random

November 3rd, 2014, 08:20 PM

LS400! Class the joint up...

Yw-slayer

November 4th, 2014, 01:40 AM

LS1?

thesameguy

November 4th, 2014, 05:46 PM

Certainly something in that series of motors!

The AJV8 is a solid mill, but really doesn't belong anywhere other than X300/X308 Jaguars. There'd be no incentive or justification for the amount of work involved in stuffing it somewhere. I'll pull it for the experience, but hopefully I can sell it to cover the cost of the car. Happily, the thing was steam cleaned before the transmission failed, so it's beautiful under the hood! :)

thesameguy

November 6th, 2014, 03:40 PM

$600 gets you this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryrrdLFxXRA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_Q0YfxalSM

Of course, you can't see that every single body panel has been keyed and the transmission makes a grimace-inducing grinding noise, but whatever.

thesameguy

November 6th, 2014, 03:45 PM

I am going to steal the ABS module, the fuel level sender, gauge cluster, and battery... and that's probably about it. I will definitely harvest a bunch of electrical stuff, but that should still leave *plenty* to recoup my investment. With any luck, I can sell the motor for double!

Random

November 6th, 2014, 03:46 PM

Tickety valvetrain or DI?

thesameguy

November 6th, 2014, 08:11 PM

Shitty cell phone mic. ;)

thesameguy

November 7th, 2014, 04:32 PM

Let me start by saying this: I am not at all to the point of even thinking this is a good idea. That said, my friend who is shortly going to be picking up his Mustang is going to be dumping his '88 (IIRC) XR4Ti. The car is in... poor shape. But it does run. It's WAY past even considering using it as a DD - minor surface rust (lived on an SF beach), wrecked interior, etc. So, I'm thinking about maybe, possibly turning it into a Lemons car or a track rat. I really like the idea of putting a Duratec V6 in it, but that's Seriously Custom. A 5.0 is a pretty braindead swap and would yield a pretty drivable car, if not a little nose heavy. Slightly more work and a SOHC mod motor would fit. Um... the reason the 2.3l is out of the question is that this car's motor doesn't sound all that healthy, and one 2.3T is enough. :)

I hate the idea of doing anything that requires work right now. I like the idea of having a moderately fun track car that wouldn't be overly challenging to drive fast, overly risky to drive fast, and always in a position to do a track day. It's been a dream for a while, I'm just not sure a XR4Ti - even a free one - is the right car to do it with.

Random

November 7th, 2014, 05:51 PM

How about a 4-liter Jag V8? I bet you could find one of those pretty easily.

And Jay would think it was such a terrible idea that he'd let you off with minimal laps. :D

Random

November 7th, 2014, 05:59 PM

http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthread.php?49447-2002-C5Z-Black-San-Diego

2002 Z06 with a nice suspension for $22k. Sounds perfect for a "get in and go" track car with some oomph.

Just sayin'.

(The default answer is "Miata," of course." :P)

thesameguy

November 7th, 2014, 07:50 PM

I definitely want more oomph than a Miata, and probably want to have less than $22k in it. By a lot. I guess I should sit down and figure out exactly what a 5.0 powered XR4Ti costs. There used to be a dude making mounts, which is really the only complicated part. T5 bolts in, obviously. I can't imagine building a competent 5.0 XR is more than two grand, three if I want to go nuts.

Or something like that.

There are so many issues with a Jag-powered XR it's not even worth discussing. The transmission being the 800lb gorilla. There are exactly zero domestically available manual transmissions that will bolt to an AJV8.

Edit: There is always the Saab-powered XR4Ti... I have everything needed to make that work in my garage except a $400 bellhousing. Thing is, I don't think a 5.0 weighs all that much more than a B202, especially if aluminum heads could be sourced (or were already on the engine).

Random

November 7th, 2014, 08:20 PM

What about getting the white Saab prepped for the track?

edit: I can see the draw of the 5-oh XR4Ti, for sure. Fox-body soundtrack without the Fox suspension hassle in a not-run-of-the-mill exterior package.

Will the XR4Ti army be knocking on your door with pitchforks?

thesameguy

November 7th, 2014, 09:18 PM

There are a lot of alternative-powered XR4Tis... Duratec, Zetec, 5.0, even a couple LS-swapped ones. Most folks in the XR community are like people in the Fiero community - interested in seeing something new done. (On the subject, an LS swap wouldn't be a bad idea either since that bolts right up to a T5 too.)

The white Saab is a 5-door, meaning it has all the weight of the hatch and all the flexibility of a 4-door. It's in a word, a flexi-flyer. ;) Plus, being one of just a handful of surviving North American 5-doors I don't think I'd feel comfortable tracking it. I could easily go get a cheap c900, but FWD and near-unobtanium gearbox parts makes me less than enthusiastic about abusing one.

Godson

November 7th, 2014, 09:38 PM

I'd lean towards LS...

But the 5-oh is a tough to beat choice.

thesameguy

November 7th, 2014, 09:58 PM

If I did something like this, it'd probably be whichever motor shows up cheapest first. ;) I like the idea of keeping it Ford, but the LS has decades of additional development. Hard to argue with that. I seem to recall reading a long time ago the LS actually fits better. Something about the brake booster.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tS3yBA7xrOo/T8V3xPydLfI/AAAAAAAAEjo/ITIHsIfwQVs/s1600/LS1_Merkur.jpg

Godson

November 8th, 2014, 07:02 AM

Random

November 8th, 2014, 07:23 AM

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=4221 :devil:

thesameguy

November 8th, 2014, 09:07 AM

That sounds consistent with what people say on the Fiero forum. With the 5.3 in everything, it's a cheap motor. And, really, probably a helluva lot easier to find than a 5.0 in good shape these days. I think some research is called for... it's not long before that XR either gets crushed or I have to take it.

thesameguy

November 8th, 2014, 09:08 AM

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=4221 :devil:

Yeah, but no. I could buy an entire aluminum LS for that! (And I think a 351 is too tall anyway. Although, really who cares if the hood is fucked up? :lol: )

thesameguy

November 8th, 2014, 08:43 PM

In order news, the good XR inches closer to completion...

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_finished_intake.jpg

Finished the intake ducting, got the situation sorted.

What's left is getting three NPT fittings from Summit, a bypass valve (thinking the Forge VAG unit) and deciding on the radiator fans. I think. I checked all the hoses & fasteners and everything looks good, so..... endgame?

There are other things I want to do to achieve perfection, but nothing that needs to be done for this effort, nor anything that would require disassembling any of this.

Will it run, or run right? No idea. Been sleeping for damn near three years!

thesameguy

November 8th, 2014, 11:14 PM

Crazy!

Bypass valves:

VAG - $80 - http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Diverter_Valve/ES279558/
Generic - $60 - http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Diverter_Valve/ES2580865/
Porsche - $32! - http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Diverter_Valve/ES1444929/

WTF :lol:

Random

November 9th, 2014, 09:58 AM

Must be from the tractor side of the business.

novicius

November 9th, 2014, 05:10 PM

I want to say I was able to find Iron block 5.3 engines in the 600 range on car-part.com.

That'd be baller. No idea on how good of condition they were in, but a little bit of work and you would have a hell of a track car.
What about the 4.8L? Cheaper, uses many of the same parts, and are you really going to miss the power difference?

Alternatively, why not work on making the Fiero track-worthy?

thesameguy

November 9th, 2014, 05:44 PM

4.8l could do it. But I think when you get into those commodity smallblocks, the cost separating a 4.8l from a 5.3l is probably going to be negligible. $600 buys you either on Ebay, no worries. Hell, not much more and you have a 6.0l. But a 5.3l with a cam, intake, and TB should be mountains of diff-ruining power. Which is a consideration - I really do not want to have to even consider a swap. I think/hope as long as I stay away from burnouts the diff will be okay - throttle transitions with a smallblock shouldn't be much worse than the 300+ lb ft I've been making for years. ;)

As for the Fiero, it probably is track worthy right now (minus the fact I totally toasted the rear tires in <3000 miles - oopsie!). But the simple fact is that nothing beats a track rat. I really miss having the Lemons car that was 100% ready to go at all times - no dealing with tire swaps, trunk junking, realignment, etc. And, at some level, things just feel better driving a gutted, optimized shell than your DD, y'know?

Which isn't to say I'm going to even do this - but it is interesting to think about. ;)

In other news, from a slight distance, in bad light, with a cell phone, the parts XJ8 looks not bad at all -

http://sacsaabs.org/forsale/xj8_parts.jpg

neanderthal

November 9th, 2014, 06:29 PM

By that you mean it looks bloody good!

Godson

November 10th, 2014, 07:25 AM

I have a link to a cam test on the 5.3. I will just say a cam and tune can easily push over 400hp.

thesameguy

November 10th, 2014, 12:43 PM

Yeah, there are a few 5.3 swaps on the Fiero forum with people making high 300s at the wheels. That is probably WAY more power than an XR4Ti needs, especially when gutted it should weigh around 2500lbs. I'd be very happy with 300 solid horsies!

thesameguy

November 10th, 2014, 01:18 PM

On the XR, I did some research on parts I need -

Bypass/diverter valve: Man, there is a lot of discussion on these things these days. With so many turbo cars and so many turbo cars using the Bosch style valve, lots of people have actually performed analysis on the "class" of valve's characteristics. From what I've read, it seems like the primary difference between the OE Bosch-esque valve and the aftermarket ones is primarily open response (aftermarket goes full-dump faster) and close response (Bosch closes faster). In terms of flow, not really that much difference - which is expected to some degree, since they all have the same ID/OD but I always imagined piston travel on the Bosch valves would be less optimal. I think I'm just going to buy an OE "710N" (the latest iteration) and call it good for now. I can upgrade to a Turbosmart or Forge valve if it becomes necessary.

Radiator fan: No great answers here, which upsets me. I did reach out to Mishimoto to get some clarification on their shrouds, and it seems I may have two workable options. The attraction is that their stuff is aluminum, and thus modifiable. The ones for the S13, NA Miata, and second gen Protégé all have very close dimensions. Unfortunately, Mishimoto only shows a couple generic shrouds on their website so it's difficult to tell what is going to have useful mounting tabs and what isn't. They did confirm, rather quickly in fact, that their dimensions include mounting tabs so a 14" x 26" S13 shroud is probably very close, given an inch or two in mounting tabs. I just don't want to have to order in a $600 worth of shrouds so I can use one. I did look into building my own, and that's still on the table. My brake is 18" wide so I could do two sections. That's on the table still. I could also just not do a shroud and use a pair of ~12" fans. Decisions must be made as if I use a shroud I probably can get it attached without any hassles, but if I don't I'll almost certainly need to have an angle bracket welded onto the top of the rad. Maybe I should do that anyway, as having the bracket there won't hurt if I use a shroud, and then I have options. I think I will just take care of that tomorrow.

Godson

November 11th, 2014, 02:41 PM

Per the discussion of bov.

Synchronic an option?

thesameguy

November 11th, 2014, 02:56 PM

Probably, but they're no cheaper than the Forge valve and I'd probably just stick to the Forge since it's been proven to work on MAP-less cars. It's a bitch getting a valve that reliably seals when closed so as to not cause idle issues and the Forge is a known quantity. Based on what I've been reading, I just don't think there's much actual reason to experiment here.

I should call out that Mishimoto's customer service is surprisingly good. I've been emailing with "Rachel" and she is on top of my issues. She didn't flinch when I said I have a non-standard application and has continued to ask questions about what it is I'm trying to do. I expected a lot less - this is a nice surprise. If she can come up with some actual imagery of the shrouds in question I will be stoked. Speaking of, I'm onto either a shroud from a 2nd gen MR2 (14.6"X26.22") or their shroud for an LSx-swapped FD (14.5"x22"). Yes, they make a shroud specifically for smallblock powered RX-7s! The former would need to be narrowed an inch and the latter extended three inches, but I am confident I can do either. Narrowing is obviously easier than widening, so it really comes down to what the bloody attachment points look like. If it really comes down to it I will order both and return one - I just hate to chuck $20+ on return shipping if I don't have to. :|

Godson

November 11th, 2014, 03:57 PM

Very cool. I just know from what I have seen, that synchronic is the best out there.

thesameguy

November 11th, 2014, 09:43 PM

A little research turns up a guy who had an LS2 in an XR4Ti. Sadly, his car was in some sort of accident. Happily, he had his crossmember for sale this summer. I don't know if it sold or not, but it may still be available... Even if it's been sold, now I've got pictures of it...

http://sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_ls_crossmember.jpg

Apparently installing it requires spacing down the swaybar by 1" (easy) but there is no ready to go oil pan. Still, this does not actually seem that hard or that costly. :baffle:

thesameguy

November 12th, 2014, 11:12 AM

Used 5.3 truck motor = $700
GMPP harness & ECU = $900
Generic LS mounts = $130
Oil pan = $??? ($$$!?)

Transmission could be a T5 with a specific bellhousing, or a T56. The former is obviously a weaker transmission, but clears the XR's tunnel. The latter is a stouter transmission, but requires (apparently minor) clearancing. Either solution requires designing a hydraulic clutch as there is no cable clutch solution for this setup. Both work with readily available transmission crossmembers for the XR.

The gotcha with the GMPP harness they don't support "old" motors - it needs to have '07+ accessories (alternator, reluctor, etc.). The nice thing about the GMPP thing, however, is that it's end-user tunable and already setup for no smog equipment (second O2 sensor, air pump, EGR, etc.). Alternatives include aftermarket electronics (eg, Painless) or harvesting stuff from a car.

Tangentially, there is a 2007 LS4 on ebay for $700. It would go great in the Fiero.

Random

November 12th, 2014, 11:19 AM

Used 5.3 truck motor = $700

The gotcha with the GMPP harness they don't support "old" motors - it needs to have '07+ accessories (alternator, reluctor, etc.).

Fortunately, there are only about 10374820 of those running around...heh. We've got them in our work trucks and they make a nice noise. Not as nice as a 302, though. ;)

thesameguy

November 12th, 2014, 11:33 AM

True, but due to their newness they command a lot more money. An early 5.3l is $700. An '07 is a couple grand. It's possible to swap stuff around and turn an early motor into a late motor, so that's on the table. It's just a matter of whether buying new accessories still costs less than a newer motor, all intact. Or, whether being able to use the GMPP harness is worth that extra $1300. I mean, you're very close to a lot of other more flexible LS electronics solutions at $1300. None of this means anything at this point, it's all vapor. ;)

Still, the idea of turning an XR4Ti into a V8-powered monster for, what, four grand (worst case) is kinda cool. Assuming it doesn't instantly blow up its diff and incur some big costs from that... ;)

pl8ster

November 13th, 2014, 11:29 AM

Wouldn't you be able to get a 4.8 for still cheaper? I always kind of wished I had the 5.3 in my truck, but certainly for a XR4Ti it wouldn't make too much difference?

thesameguy

November 13th, 2014, 12:10 PM

Academically, probably yeah. But with 5.3s at $700, there just isn't much money on the table to save. I imagine if a 4.8 fell into my lap I wouldn't say no, but if it's $400 for the smaller motor (WAG) and $700 for the larger, all other things being equal, I'd spend the three bills - because why not? ;)

thesameguy

November 13th, 2014, 01:37 PM

Rachel over at Mishimoto continues to impress, even if their odd lack of any design imagery does the opposite.

Hoping someone with an NA Miata can comment on whether this looks like a proper NA radiator and how the fan shroud would attach. If so, it's *exactly* right for the XR - 12.5"x25". I just need to remove the mounting tabs on one side and attach some new ones.

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_mishimoto_miata_shroud.png

:up:

Random

November 13th, 2014, 07:49 PM

Looks about right to me (except for being upside down :p). Each stock fan has an individual mounting bracket with an integrated/attached shroud, which is why there are 8 bosses on the radiator (4 per fan).

edit: poking around it looks like Mishimoto's own fan shroud doesn't use all the bosses:
http://ep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-62631657248580/mazda-miata-x-line-performance-aluminum-radiator-1990-1997-123.jpg

You can see the stock fans mounted up to a stock radiator in this shot:
http://www.staticninegarage.com/uploads/1/4/0/9/14098548/5992211_orig.jpg

And you can *just* see stock fans mounted to a Mishimoto in this pic: http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/general-miata-chat-9/17628d1279560862-mishimoto-radiator-install-_mg_2091-1-jpg

thesameguy

November 13th, 2014, 09:24 PM

Awesome - thanks!

I am putting my order in, I think this will work great. With any luck I can have it Saturday and get the radiator over to my welder for mods. :up:

thesameguy

November 14th, 2014, 10:02 PM

Sometimes I really love Summit. Somehow my the shroud made it today, and it is an amazing fit! Like, perfect. I have some choices about how to attach it - I am really torn between welding and piecing it together. The former would be much cheaper and probably work just fine, with the possibility that if it doesn't work out in will gave to drain the cooling system to weld later. Hmmm...

Another decision looks like it is going to be the upper radiator hose - my current one will not clear the shroud. I have never been all that happy with it so I am considering options, but if I can't come up with anything I will have to cut away a ~1.5" square from the shroud - not too big of a deal. Only sad bit about this is that it's yet another delay in making the car go. Poop. (But seriously, the last one!)

thesameguy

November 15th, 2014, 12:54 PM

Mishimoto NA Miata fan shroud FTW!

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_mishi_front.JPG

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_mishi_rear.JPG

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_mishi_bottom.JPG

I am not 100% on my top bracket solution, but it saved me from having to do any welding whatsoever. The fit is quite tight, so I don't anticipate any problems.

The top brackets are these things:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_mishi_brackets.JPG

They're insulated with rubber to give a tight fit and prevent any abrasion. I did not expect to be the fit to be as it is in all seriously - I'm pretty darned confident in it.

The *only* modification I made to the fan shroud was to trim & redrill the upper right mounting tab as on my car it was interfering with the intercooler outlet. Ideally, the right solution would be to weld a bracket onto the top of the MD radiator and a matching one on the shroud, but if ya ain't got aluminum welding skillz (or tools), you get by with what you've got. ;)

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_mishi_installed1.JPG

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_mishi_installed2.JPG

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/xr_mishi_installed3.JPG

I have a list of radiator hoses that might work to save having to further modify the shroud - worst case I can piece two of them together with a coupler. Just debating on whether I want to spend 2x and get 'em from Autozone or wait a week and get them from rockauto.

November 15th, 2014, 09:14 PM

Say "Woof" to your beautiful friend there for me.

thesameguy

November 16th, 2014, 06:41 PM

:up:

She is doing so well - things were really dicey this summer but she's made a great recovery. Nice to have her running around again. :)

thesameguy

November 16th, 2014, 09:34 PM

My radiator hose situation seems to be solved by 50% Ford Tempo hose and 50% Toyota Camry hose. I need a thingy to join them together, so I ordered a 1.25" aluminum tube off ebay - the hoses are 1.19", but hopefully they stretch. If not, I can order a proper coupler but it'll come from China and take a month - so I hope I don't have to. That is literally it - the last piece of the puzzle that has taken damn near three years. I feel pathetic, but whatever.

(Of course, once I verify it starts and doesn't leak like a sieve, it is in desperate need of tires - the Nokian NRZs are 10 years old and badly feathered, not to mention hard as a rock. I was hoping to have found new wheels by now, but I am 100% prepared to wrap the ICW GT Sport wheels with cheap Falkens and call it good for now. ;) )

thesameguy

November 16th, 2014, 10:10 PM

Shit, tirerack has P Zero Rossos for $88 on closeout!

thesameguy

November 16th, 2014, 10:21 PM

Their 14.5lb 17" wheel is too - $140ea.

http://www.tirerack.com/images/wheels/trm/swap/trm_ffx_lg_ci3_l.jpg

Kchrpm

November 17th, 2014, 05:28 AM

MAKE IT SO

Godson

November 17th, 2014, 08:27 AM

For what size?????

thesameguy

November 17th, 2014, 08:35 AM

17x7 - it's a very light wheel for cast. It's what the K1-TS weighs, IIRC.

Godson

November 17th, 2014, 08:36 AM

I meant the tires...

thesameguy

November 17th, 2014, 08:51 AM

225/45-17

thesameguy

November 17th, 2014, 09:05 AM

I really want to order those wheels and tires, but I am not sure a 225 will fit with an ET42 wheel. It'll be *really* close in front, especially if the tires are cheaters. I guess I could always drop the front end a little bit to grow some clearance? I'm also not sure how those wheels will look on the XR, but in years I've looking I've haven't found anything that meets my criteria of light and good looking, so maybe I should give up. The XR isn't exactly a show car anyhow. There's also the small matter of $1000. Heh. The car might not even be ready to drive - I just hate to miss an opportunity on something I'm going to need at some point anyway. Why is everything so difficult?

Random

November 17th, 2014, 10:04 AM

Their 14.5lb 17" wheel is too - $140ea.

http://www.tirerack.com/images/wheels/trm/swap/trm_ffx_lg_ci3_l.jpg

Same bolt circle and hub as a Focus?

thesameguy

November 17th, 2014, 10:16 AM

I think so, but am not sure. The PCD is the same, and IIRC they're both 63.xmm hubs, but I'm not positive. If nothing else, the Focus hub is a mm or two larger. These TireRack wheels are for the Focus, so they'll definitely fit. ;)

Random

November 17th, 2014, 10:17 AM

Weird, they don't pop up for me. :mad:

edit: they pop up if you pick the ZTS sedan but not the ZX3. What. The. Fuck. Tirerack.

thesameguy

November 17th, 2014, 10:18 AM

Really? I found them by searching for an '03 ZX3 and sorting by weight. Maybe they went out of stock already?

Edit: Nope, they're still there. 4th wheel in when sorted by weight.

Random

November 17th, 2014, 10:20 AM

Alright, so even weirder that they don't show up for an 01 ZX3. :angry:

edit: and now it's there. I swear they weren't listed earlier this morning. *sigh*

[church lady]Nevermiiind.[/lady] :lol:

thesameguy

November 17th, 2014, 10:23 AM

I think I've run into that before, which is why I choose '03 - I think it shows the biggest variety. Things also don't show up if you choose SVT, or Contour, or Cougar when all of these 4-bolt Fords have the exact same wheel well situation and entirely interchangeable wheels (outside of brake considerations, like the SVTs). The XR4Ti is in the bunch, too, obviously, but I've got forgiveness for a car that went out of production that long ago.

Random

November 17th, 2014, 10:25 AM

All that said, the brakes on my car would look positively stupid-small behind 17s! :lol:

thesameguy

November 17th, 2014, 10:36 AM

Just gotta choose the right wheel. ;) Ran into that on my friend's '01 ZX3 - in fact, the wheels on the XR4Ti were on his Focus when he picked it up from the dealer. They did look stupid small. He eventually ended up with some Rotas that had enough meat in the middle that the focus (HA!) was not on the brakes and they were fine. I think those TireRack wheels would have a similar effect. Kinda too bad, as the big PBR Mustang calipers look good behind 17s on the XR. Honestly, though, I'd totally settle for a good 16" wheel on the XR. The only reason I ever went to 17s is because they fell in my lap! :)

I am so on the verge of just ordering them and hoping for the best, maybe go with a 215 instead of a 225 as I'd wanted to. I'm pretty a 215 will be fine even losing a couple mm in wheel offset. I'd love the opportunity to be able to switch wheels between the XR and the SPG, but the SPG is even less tolerant. I've got +38s on there and that's *it*. No way a +42 would fit, and there isn't enough hub or stud to do a 5mm spacer. 2mm I've done and works, but 5mm is out of the question. Er... A 215 should be fine on the XR anyway. Grip wasn't an issue, and while there can always be more the XR is pretty neutral and doesn't need remedial tires like the Fiero does. ;)

thesameguy

November 17th, 2014, 09:32 PM

I am pretty darned sure that there is no way an ET42 is gonna fit on the XR. There is slightly less than an index finger's width between the tire and strut body as is. Not sure losing another 2mm is a good idea. (Although, I'm not sure it isn't... how much space do you actually need? ;) )

Edit: This post - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1725955-Minimum-Tire-to-Strut-Clearance - suggests that I am just being a puss.

Edit2: I have a solid 12mm right now. Hmmm.

thesameguy

November 18th, 2014, 12:17 PM

Two things I just learned:

The Mercedes transmission on the XJR has a component bellhousing, so slicing off the back means you can weld up some new aluminum and have a decent, functional adapter for mating a manual transmission. There's some real fabrication for a clutch slave cylinder, but it's a start.
The diesel S-Types - not sold on these shores - has a 6-speed manual that bolts right up to the AJV8

Neither of these issues solve the engine management issue of running a Jaguar V8 with a manual, but it's a real leg up on the mechanical stuff. Megasquirt can surely handle the supercharged version, but the NA version has fancy manifolds and cams that are roadblock-y.

thesameguy

November 19th, 2014, 10:42 AM

Okay, I am very likely going to go for those Tire Rack wheels. I'm leaving the decision a little in fate's hands and not ordering them until Friday or Saturday*, but the plan is to order them. I'm trying to decide on tires - I am going to stick with 215s. I'm not going to break the bank on the tires, either - just something reasonable for a little fun and lot of commuting. I'm considering:

HTR ZIII (what's on the Fiero, even though I already toasted the rears)
Direzza DZ102
Ecsta SPT
BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2

I considered a few others, including the Conti DWs and V12s, but I think I like my list. I think I like the Sumitomos and the BFGs best, but I'm still thinking. I'm hoping I can recover some of this outlay by selling the six ICW wheels I have for the XR... Not sure they're actually worth anything being a very old-looking tuner wheel and weighing a metric ton each. Not too sad - I got a lot of use of $300 worth of wheels. ;)

* We are finally on the highway in getting the girl's credit repaired, and went on a credit card acquisition spree the other day. Got some very good promotions that give $$$ back after spending $$$, so I'm going to wait for one of them to show up and then load it up with a tire/wheel purchase to get that free promotional money ASAP. ;)