TSG's Unified Fleet Thread

[TheBenior]

I am going to do so much man stuff this weekend.

Honey, you are going to be looking so butch.

[thesameguy]

Mission accomplished! I will wear my best flannel! :up:

[thesameguy]

Procrastination pays off: I could have shipped the motorhome's power steering pump back to AAP for a core refund, OOOOOOOOOOR I could drag my feet for six months until AAP purchased CARQUEST and drop it off locally. YEAH!

[speedpimp]

Mission accomplished! I will wear my best flannel! :up:

Except it will be a flannel miniskirt worn with fishnet thigh highs.

[thesameguy]

Uh, dude, it's a utilikilt, NOT A BLOODY SKIRT!

[neanderthal]

And the fishnet thigh highs are cold weather compression leggings with venting... :D

[thesameguy]

I do like my airflow, no two ways about it.

[TheBenior]

Ze speed holes vill make you run fahster.

[thesameguy]

It is the time of year when I endeavor to "earn" free stuff (it's so much work!), and that means a bit of a spending freeze. So, rather than buy a new radiator for the F150 for $80, I bought this stuff for $10:

http://www.amazon.com/Versachem-90214-Plastic-Radiator-Repair/dp/B0009MZI4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447456630&sr=8-1&keywords=versachem+tank+repair&pebp=1447456630234&perid=1K838ZQ3DSNS8WQDB2Z4

The package includes some sandpaper, a two-part epoxy kinda like JB Weld, and a small section of what appears to be fiberglass. Kind of an interesting approach to this repair. Had I known that in advance I probably wouldn't have bought it... the leak is *tiny* and there isn't a lot of room to fit such a repair: While trying to figure out how it might work, I noticed the '95 F150 isn't actually all that old, and the plastic radiator has clearly indicated stops for the hoses like most modern-ish cars. Whoever put the fancy (:down:) braided sleeve over the radiator hose didn't reinstall the hose correctly...

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_radleakcomment.jpg

I figured why not, and "fixed it."

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_radleakfix.jpg

The hose is old a little deformed from being installed improperly, so I through the second hose clamp on it to try and force it back into position. I also threw some vulcanizing lubricant (kind of what you use on a bike tube patch) on there to maybe weld the rubber to the plastic for added sealing. So pro. My hope is that with the hose fully engaged and melted onto the inlet the leak won't be able to leak... at least for a month when the freeze is over.

[thesameguy]

10 or 15 miles, no leaks from The Repair, so it seems I can get a few weeks from it anyway. :up:

I do love going through old cars... people invariably leave the weirdest stuff in their cars. In this one, I found a receipt from 2002 from Aamco for a transmission rebuild, so it seems the reputation of the M5OD as being fragile is not overstated. But, hey, the second one has lasted 14 years so that's rad. ;) Also found a receipt from a used car place maybe two miles from my house that sold the truck to its previous owner. In 2009 he paid $2550 for it. Six years and 30,000 miles for $550 ain't so bad.

Also found these:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_shells.jpg

which adds character I think, especially since a few of them are melted into the plastic pocket. Rally round the family!

I decided to yank all the broken lights, and while doing that found this:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_powerhorn.jpg

It says "Realistic Powerhorn" on the back. It is positively massive, and seems exactly the type of thing Radio Shack would have sold a couple decades ago. i haven't yet tested it, but I'm itching to.

[Random]

I think that's supposed to be part of an CB/PA system.

[thesameguy]

That would make sense, as there is wiring for a CB on the dash. When I was a kid, my dad loved hollering at people inside their houses while on the street. "Chuck, get out here, we're late." :lol:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cobra-29LTD-Classic-40-Channel-CB-Radio-29-LTD-USA-SELLER-NEW-/111813031837?hash=item1a0893779d:g:KDgAAOxykYtSKhj n

If I got that, I could talk to me from the motorhome.

[Random]

ConVOYYY!!!!

[speedpimp]

Amazing that a twenty year old Ford looks better than most five-ten year old Dodge trucks I see.

[thesameguy]

Seems to be generally true of Dodge trucks. It seems the very recent ones are ok, but nothing before the mid '00s seems to hold up very well. Shopping CL and comparing Chevy, Ford, and Dodge there was no way I'd settled for a Ram. Interior materials especially just don't hold up.

[Yeti]

The '94-'02 Rams seem to consistently be the most clapped-out, rusted used pickups on the market around here.

Even the pre-'94 Rams seem to have held up better, even if there are fewer of them since they never sold as well as the '94-on ones.

[pl8ster]

Same up here in Vacationland, except I don't even see the '94-era models on the road much anymore. The early '02+ models are the ones I see that are clapped out as hell, with manifold leaks, rust over the rear wheel arches and rear bumpers that have been well used as such.

But I'm curious to hear how that horn works out.

[thesameguy]

Down in SoCal for the holiday. Blerg. Mercedes is still in remarkably good shape - it doesn't look like it's run into or over anything, which is stunning. It's had zero mechanical problems and runs great. However, it catastrophically failed smog today. I was able to get it over to Bob's Muffler as I suspected the cat, and Bob put it up on the rack for us to look at. Exhaust temp going into the cat is about 250 degrees, exhaust leaving the cat is about 100 degrees. So, the cat is doing a whole lot of nothing. The date stamp suggests it's only four years old, but it's quite possibly one of the last "three year cats" that were banned in California in '09. I hope that's it, rather than some running problem that decimated it in short time. I don't think anything too terrible can be wrong - it has no CEL, runs great, fuel economy is perfectly normal, and it has only consumed 1/2 quart of oil in 4,000 miles. I can't immediately see anything that would result in cat murder.

Bob was closing for the day, so we'll pick up the car and take it back in for a smog tomorrow. Year Two with this car is up in five months, but after this repair I think I am going to push for a third year. That didn't go well for the PT Cruiser, but I think the Benz at 19 months is in far better shape than the Cruiser was at the same time. Not having to buy another car next year would be wunderbar.

[novicius]

Great ROI -- keep pushing it! :D :up:

[thesameguy]

That's the goal anyway! Bob got a new cat on for three bills and some change, and fixed an exhaust leak at the same time. Sounds better, I think it runs better, and now it passes smog. All set for 2016... Fingers crossed. I should be out detailing at least the interior but it is 50 degrees out and I am having a hard time getting motivated. It'll be fine til April, right? I just don't want to come back and find the dash cracked and the seats torn - that would make it hard to maintain enthusiasm about this ride. ;)

[neanderthal]

Just take it to a car wash.

$20 will get it nicely washed and vacuumed.

[thesameguy]

I'm looking for a little more than that... cleanliness isn't at stake, I don't want a faded dashboard or dried out weather stripping and getting someone to take care of that for you is quite a bit more than $20.

[Kchrpm]

You need an OCD friend that can be paid in beers and wings, but I have the feeling that you are that friend.

[thesameguy]

I need to know that guy in SoCal. I used to have a friend Kyle who actually lived not too far from Rancho and who I definitely could have enticed into an arrangement, but he moved away a long time ago. I would love to find a reliable handyman type to help out down there... someone who could get a car smogged or a crap washer & dryer loaded onto a truck and hauled away. Unfortunately I am a little too paranoid to just find someone on the internet and send them to a single lady's house to do stuff. The potential for epic failure there is enormous. I've been doing okay with the twice per year journey, but it was frickin' cold there this time! Way too cold to be detailing a car, anyway.

[thesameguy]

I haven't touched tools in, jeez, two months? I do all my best saving at the end of the year, so no car work has been underway. Absolutely nothing - knock on wood - is broken right now so there's been no pressure whatever. Just video games and booze this winter, ain't nothing wrong with that.

I did place a small rockauto order of stuff to redo the F150's cooling system - new radiator, hoses, thermostat, etc. That stuff all showed up yesterday after nearly three weeks in transit and - I know I'm nuts - I am looking forward to doing this work over Christmas weekend. Saturday is looking to be a sunny 50 degrees, great time to play in the water.

Part of the year-end savings is to replace our dishwasher which has developed some weird problems - it leaks from the front and fails to drain maybe one out of twenty uses. So weird - but it's probably 25 years old and I sure as shit am not going to invest a dime in it. Since we're doing that, I am replacing the fridge at the same time to hopefully cut down on our energy bill and because I want a ice dispenser for real. At the same time, SoCal Mom's fridge is dying ("it just cuts off for an hour or two sometimes"), and we're thinking about getting ours down to her. Ours isn't new, but it's newer than hers and it isn't broken. I just can't rationalize whether it's better to just suck it up and buy her a new one locally or invest in moving... $1000+ vs $200 in gas to deliver a not-new fridge, plus of course my time. Not sure whether it's better to rent a trailer and tow it with the Suburban, or lay it down in the Ford. For a short drive I'd lay it down for sure, but 7 hours on some rough roads is rough. Plus, I'm not sure how comfortable 1994 F150 is over that long of a drive. Either way, getting down there with a trailer or a pickup has the side benefit of a facility to empty GARBAGE out of that house. I'd really like that SO MUCH.

I am reminded it's time to stock up on oil... Suburban, Fiero, XR4Ti and the Ford are all due for their annual oil change next month. YEAH!

[thesameguy]

F150's cooling system has been mostly rehabbed. The primary target was radiator replacement, but while I was in there I figured some sensors, hoses, and the thermostat were called for as well. I continue to be highly satisfied by Spectra brand radiators - this is the fourth I have purchased (Saab, PT Cruiser, Fiero, and F150) and they always are just fine. Maybe not the best in some academic sense, but the fit is always spot-on, the hardware kit is always comprehensive, and the price point is very middle of the road. I am less impressed by the Gates lower radiator hose, which was simply all sorts of wrong - wrong bends, wrong length, wrong damn diameter! I ended up reusing the one that was on there, rusty-ass spring and all. :(

It's clear someone in the truck's past was not good with tools. I suspect the same guy that put braided wrap and shiny stuff all over everything. That guy also couldn't handle the thermostat housing and had like three gaskets, some weird rubber crap, and a mess of RTV everywhere. Clearly couldn't get it to seal. Took me 30 minutes with scrapers and a sanding block to get everything clean and smooth again. I was a little nervous as after mistreatment these vintage Ford housings sometimes warp and won't seal ever again, but I've got 40 miles on it without leaks, so I rule, that other guy, well, doesn't.

Oil change, new air filter, and a new fuel filter (which I think replaced the original!) and Phase 1 is complete - non-leaky system and a working temp gauge. I am annoyed I did not order a fuel injection coolant temp sensor. Oops. Sometime in the next few months I will go through the ignition system, and hopefully along the way tackle the permanent high idle. 4.9l of six should not idle at 1000rpm, but a high idle plague these motors (and EEC IV in general) so I'm not surprised. Bad TPS? Leaky throttle body? Who knows. Not too troubled by it.

[Godson]

High idle Could be caused by a blocked vane on the hot idle controller block.

[thesameguy]

What the heck is a hot idle controller block?

There is a weird vacuum doodad on the side of the block I thought was EGR-related... I thought idle was just the idle control valve on the TB like other EEC-IV cars.

[pl8ster]

What the heck is a hot idle controller block?

There is a weird vacuum doodad on the side of the block I thought was EGR-related... I thought idle was just the idle control valve on the TB like other EEC-IV cars.

As someone who barely knows his ass from a hole in the ground, automotively speaking, I got a good chuckle out of this episode of Stump The Expert.

[thesameguy]

Me too, and I want to know the damned answer! :lol:

[thesameguy]

Fun read:

http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a27743/pontiac-fiero-regular-car-reviews/

[Godson]

What the heck is a hot idle controller block?

There is a weird vacuum doodad on the side of the block I thought was EGR-related... I thought idle was just the idle control valve on the TB like other EEC-IV cars.

That's what I am talking about, i just couldnt remember yhe name. The idle air controller can have a vane plugged which would affect the idle.

[thesameguy]

Ah, got it. This thing just has the standard EEC-IV two position (IIRC) IAC bolted directly to the throttle body. On or off, doesn't actually do much. :lol:

The issue is probably a vacuum leak somewhere. EGR valve ($$$), failed throttle body ($$$), or some part of the EGR or SAI system ($$$). Since you have a Porsche and I have a Ford, I will quantify $$$ as being "like $50."

[Godson]

I was gonna say, that stuff shouldn't be more than 50$. Lol!

[thesameguy]

I went in for a $200 cooling system rehab, but I think I have to draw the line on a $2000 truck. The only thing that gives me pause is I will have to sell it in a few months and I'm not sure it will pass smog with a 1000rpm idle. It did before, but that was up in Applegate where they have the lower smog requirements. Maybe I will swing by my testing place and just ask them - if it's going to have to be fixed I want to at least enjoy the fix!

[thesameguy]

I noticed over the summer that the Suburban was a little low on coolant and that what was in the radiator looked pretty rusty. Just *finally* got around to dealing with a flush along with a new thermostat and upper radiator hose. The coolant was quite low, but I've never seen any leaks so proceeded with reckless abandon. Today, the water pump failed and spewed coolant all over the driveway. Drat. Hey, at least it didn't overheat or do something unfortunately on the road somewhere. Failing at home is the best place to fail!

[thesameguy]

I am pretty stoked about the ease of a water pump on the Suburban. I will never forget the horror of the water pump on my ex's '00 Mustang V6 so whenever it's American V-engine water pump time that's where I go. It took *maybe* ten minutes to get the pump off - fan shroud, fan clutch, water pump. Next to the XR4Ti & Falcon (which are roughly the same) it's the easiest pump I've ever done. A new pump, lower radiator hose, and serpentine belt kit are coming from Amazon and should be here tomorrow. Incidentally, it cost $14 more via Amazon than rockauto, but rockauto had $14 of shipping and Amazon has tax. Final difference was like $8. Amazon inches closer to auto parts domination every single day.

I also spent a silly amount of time replacing light bulbs in the Ford's instrument cluster. Should have only taken a few minutes, but I decided to use used light bulbs and it took some time to separate good from bad. :lol: I also removed a bunch of really poorly done wiring. I shouldn't have wasted the time, but I hate rogue wires. I am not sure at the moment what I left behind - some stuff running off into the engine bay in a place I couldn't see. Out of sight, out of mind.

Also out of sight:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/sPx9GlarL-8/hqdefault.jpg

[thesameguy]

Suburban is almost all back together - new water pump went in easily and I went ahead and replaced the upper & lower radiator hoses as well as the serpentine belt and various pulleys. I don't have a fan clutch tool, so I am going to run by Autozone and hopefully rent one. I'm not sure how you apply proper torque to such a thing. Guess I will learn something!

This winter has caught me totally off guard. I read all the El Nino warnings but didn't take it seriously - I just don't have a lot of faith in weather predictions these days. It's effing cold and effing wet outside and I'm just not used to those conditions anymore. Last time I remember a really miserable winter was '10/'11, though I guess '12 was pretty wet as well. In any case, it's been a long damned time since winter was actually an obstacle around here. This not only hampers my motivation but means putting the Falcon outside isn't a good idea, so no garage to work in. Poop.

Queued up in the garage:

o A radiator and oil pressure sensor for the Fiero, which are both ultra-low priority
o A fuel tank for the SPG, which not only is a low priority but still needs a custom fuel pump to be useful, on a car with tires not safe for the weather

Not very exciting *at all* - not worth being wet & cold over! Plus, kinda broke after the F150, unexpected Mercedes costs and a few kitchen updates. So, I guess, I will continue to do just about nothing while pre-shopping SPG and 500e tires for a February or March purchase.

[thesameguy]

I don't have a fan clutch tool, so I am going to run by Autozone and hopefully rent one. I'm not sure how you apply proper torque to such a thing. Guess I will learn something!

The answer is this kick-ass site!

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/renderers/torquewrench/wrench_formula_main_en.asp

[thesameguy]

We have our new fridge in, but it's going to be a couple months before we take our old one down south. It'd actually fit in the back of the Suburban or the F150 if I lay it down, but I'm really nervous about moving a fridge 450 miles laying down. One good bump and that could be it for the compressor. I still have the trailer option, which brings some benefits like being able to take the dog and some negatives like extra cost and extra fuel. I'm also not sure a crappy UHaul trailer has suspension that will be kind to the fridge like vehicle suspension might. Today I started entertaining the idea of taking the fridge in the Ford standing upright. It would poke over the roof about 2' - not good for fuel economy and not good for flying debris. Maybe - I'm thinking - Get a big piece of aluminum and make an airfoil/shield? What would that look like, and how would I install it?

[FaultyMario]

Wouldn't a fat piece of fabric (http://store.dakine.com/sport/bike/accessories/pickup-pad-large.html") be enough for protection? road-legal?

[speedpimp]

IT'S GOT WINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (http://www.taylorwings.com/RV/ProductsRV_Wings.htm)

[thesameguy]

Wouldn't a fat piece of fabric (http://store.dakine.com/sport/bike/accessories/pickup-pad-large.html") be enough for protection? road-legal?

I could definitely put a furniture pad around it for protection - that's on the table for sure. But, if I could do something cheap that wouldn't result in the fridge being a massive frontal area extension, I'd like to give it a go. It may not be all that important. Adding four square feet of frontal area to a 1994 pickup is probably not a huge deal. :lol:


IT'S GOT WINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (http://www.taylorwings.com/RV/ProductsRV_Wings.htm)

I would laugh at myself for putting a $500 spoiler on my truck. Heartily. :D

[FaultyMario]

Bubble wrap it and be done with it.

[thesameguy]

Damn you and your pragmatism!!!!

[CudaMan]

Yeah I'd go upright and not worry about the MPG hit. Wrap it in one of those padded blankets or something and call it good. I wouldn't expect much debris to fly just over the roof of a pickup truck on the highway. Just bugs mainly.

[thesameguy]

Not you too!!!!

[Random]

Carry it in the motorhome?

Mostly :assclown: but kinda serious, if you're that worried about it.

​(Motorhome door is probably too small.)

[thesameguy]

Yeah, the door is tiny. Really makes those Toyhauler solutions seem like the only motorhomes worth spending real money on.

http://www.campingearth.com/images/motorized-toy-hauler.jpg

There was a discussion on these on the RV forum recently... one thing I didn't know is that you can option them with stacked, folding bunks in the back. Unload, then flip down four beds. Rad.

[thesameguy]

The weirdest thing happened - I was in the backyard on Saturday night and I noticed light shining through the Falon's car cover in the trunk area. Fortunately (?) there are trim holes still in the body to let light from the trunk out, or I never would have known. I opened the trunk, unfastened the mercury switch, and no matter which way I turned it the light stayed on. I assumed that the switch had gone bad or was somehow affected by the weather, but I have never heard of that nor could I figure out how it could happened. I removed it, but once removed and tested with a multimeter it appears fine; with it removed the trunk light is off. I'm at a loss here. Maybe mercury switches are not suitable for LED applications, maybe they aren't reliably off "enough?" I guess I gotta find a new switch solution. Poop.

[thesameguy]

I think I mentioned last summer that in addition to the Santa Fe I also had to pick up a BMW... well, this is it:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/98_528i.jpg

It's been in a warehouse for seven months now doing nothing, but the case just closed and now we (ie, I) have to dispose of it. I didn't have much wheel time post-purchase, so that's on my to-do list for this weekend to figure out what sort of shape it's in. It runs and drives - quite well actually - but is far from "good." Some dings, messed up front valence, SRS light on, RR brake light doing something funky, some interior door panel fitment issues, maybe a bad RF wheel bearing. Not a car I would have chosen to buy, when you need an E39 528i with a manual transmission Right Now, you take what you can get.

I may try and tackle some of its issues, but I think the ceiling on this car is quite low and any real remedial measures will blow right through it... so my current thinking is sell it as it sits - cheap and fast.

[Random]

Wanna sell the engine and transmission for $400? :D

[thesameguy]

I'd like to, but I'm not sure the office would. Plus, whatever we get back from the vehicle comes out the case fees, so it's more money back into the client's pocket. It was a pretty unfortunate situation, so it's worth helping as I can. :)

[Random]

Ha, fair enough.

[thesameguy]

$10 Amazon doodad lets my scanner pull codes from the E39. Rad.

Initial codes were "SRS Fault, Front Left" and "SRS Fault, Front Right." I cleared both codes, restarted the car, and the Front, Left came back. Unfortunately it does not provide any more information - like whether it's a module fault or a sensor fault. Hmmm.

Also, my scanner asks for a model clarification - I got past 2.8l and manual transmission, but there are other options like LIM, TOUR, SAP. So, like, a mystery.

[thesameguy]

Okay, forget all that.

My scanner gives the options of 528i_A_M52 and 528i_M_M52, which I assume to be automatic or manual with the 2.8l.

Additionally there are options for LIM or TU_SAL in both regular or TOUR, which I assume means sedan or wagon. I do not know what LIM or TU_SAL could possibly mean.

Selecting LIM gives some control manual options that sound, well, basic. Selecting TU_SAL gives some more exciting options like NAV, MRS II/III/IV, and other stuff I can't remember. Regardless of which sub-model or module I choose, I can still pull codes, so whatever. :lol:

The code for the airbag is:

8, Side Airbag, Front Left

There are some diagnostics available, including occupancy sensor and seatbelt receptacle for each side. Those both appear to work - it knows when I am sitting a seat and when the seatbelt is fastened.

I think that leaves me with a control module fault, an impact sensor, or the airbag itself. I imagine that "8" means something, but I don't know what and can't find any references to any of this online.

[Random]

TU is "technical update," which was a package of, uh, technical updates to the M52 engine (dual VANOS and some other stuff). 98+ 528s got the M52TU afaik.

[thesameguy]

Thanks! That makes good sense and explains why plain ol' LIM doesn't have all the systems TU does. Wonder what SAL is. Probably doesn't matter.

I understand the '98 has MRSII (http://www.bmwtech.ru/pdf/e46/ST034/7%20Passive%20Safety%20Systems.pdf) so that may yield some more diagnostic info tomorrow. From that document it seems like the side impact stuff only uses the side impact sensors, so I'll find them & check them out. :)

I will also check out all the weird white stuff under the hood:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/98_528i_whitestuff.jpg

It looks like either someone sprayed a fire extinguisher all over the place, or something coolant-related exploded. Not a great selling point.

[Random]

That's an odd location for either, unless that rad hose had a pinhole. Funky.

[thesameguy]

http://askatech.com/AskATechLive/forums/ResourceHandler.ashx?a=11036

That confirms "Code 8" is just "Side air bag front left," which somehow seems different than, say, "sensor left side."

Guess the door panel is coming off. And the power washer coming out. :)

[thesameguy]

If anyone ever needs to know, a sure-fire way to set Code 8 on a BMW MRSII system is just remove the airbag from the driver's door entirely. WTF?

Also WTF is why the right front tire is a 225/45-17 when all the others are 235/45-17.

Another WTF, but one of a different nature, is why the bulb out pictogram shows the left brakelight out, when in fact all the brake lights are out.

[Godson]

Dude, that thing sounds like a mess of a car.

Does the bulb indicator on the pictogram show both sides light up when the key goes on the make sure none of the dash bulbs are burnt out?

[thesameguy]

It does not. It doesn't do anything, ever. I assumed it wasn't doing the normal light check because it knew a bulb was out.

It is a mess, but it runs *so well.* Put about 50 miles on it last night and it feels very good on the road. Ignoring the shot shifter bushings and dead front right wheel bearing. But whatever.

I thought this was going to be a solid but not quite right driver for someone, but you obviously can't sell a car as functional when the SRS system has been tampered with, the brake lights don't work, and mismatched tire sizes. Debating on whether to fix that stuff, or sell it as parts.

[Godson]

Miles on it?

[thesameguy]

210k. Really surprised at how strong it is for its age. I'd honestly never entertained a 528i much less one with such high mileage, but in and of itself it's held up really well. The vast majority of its problems are a result of poor treatment, not poor aging. If the paint was in better shape, I'd really consider keeping it and fixing it up proper!

[thesameguy]

I made an error - the pictogram shows the right brake light out, which happens when the CHMSL is dead. I think that's why the brake light test never comes on - it knows the bulb is out. So, maybe two easy problems - brake light switch and bulb.

Next question is: Do airbags need to be coded? Because they're like $25 on ebay. I'd do that just to have it right.

Looks like there are seven E39s in two Pick & Pulls in town - guess I'll go check them out next weekend.

[Random]

At least yours tells you when the CHMSL is out--the E36es didn't. :(

[thesameguy]

I don't remember any other car I've had with a bulb out pictogram having it. Kind of a neat feature!

[thesameguy]

Maybe good news...


The MRS module does not need to be reprogrammed as the airbags are just generators.

So, $25 ebay or junkyard airbag...

Just need to figure out the brake light switch.

I remembered I have a pair of Goodyear 225/45-17s in the garage which I will never use, so I may have those put on the front of the car. 235/45 in back and 225/45 in front isn't too weird I don't think.

At that point it's just an average-used E39 with a broken sunroof (doesn't open, probably a sensor), a broken front passenger window regulator, and needing a wheel bearing. I think that's a totally fair car.

[Random]

If it's the same brake light switch they used in the E36, they are cheap ($25?) and basically disposable. A pain in the neck (literally) to replace, too. :|

[thesameguy]

From reading around it seems like two switches were in use - a traditional push-button switch and an Hall-effect proximity sensor - depending on year. I'm guessing the push-button is earlier cars, and the proximity sensor is the TU cars. I'm sure I can't have a $25 switch, I'm sure I have to have a $$$ switch. This is one of the best examples of a grotesquely over-thought solution I've ever come across. I'll pull it apart Wednesday morning and see what's up, but I'm sure it's the expensive one... which is why I'm planning on junkyarding it. ;)

[thesameguy]

I don't know.

I yanked the brake light switch at lunch - it turned out to be not that difficult. Four screws and two clips and done. I'm guessing the foot well on a 5er is much larger than a 3er, so there was adequate room to work. I sort of failed at removing it, however, as the top half popped off the lower half. It's totally possible it was damaged before I touched it, however. The reason I say that is because what came out doesn't look like a functioning piece of technology. There is a plastic body, a plastic cap, a "circuit board" (a resistor, a diode, and an IC I think), and a plastic plunger. There doesn't appear to be anything mechanical here, no actual "switch," and even if one of the aforementioned electronic components is a Hall Sensor, I don't see how a plastic plunger could trigger one. You need a magnetic field, or at least a piece of metal. So, WTF?

I found some switch troubleshooting for an E38 that appears valid for the E39 - same three wires in the same colors. I get battery voltage where I should (via the LCM) and ground where I should, but a constant 1.5v out of the remaining wire. The troubleshooting says 5v should be switched by the, um, switch, and I don't see any way that's happening. If the switch does work on Plastic Magic nothing is switching, and even if something is missing from the inside (like, at *least* a spring!) I never get 5v out. So, borked?

I now have a part number - 83608531 - and of course the manual cars have a different switch than the automatic cars, so finding one is probably going to be impossible. I do note that new, automatic versions are $40, the manual versions are $80. Rad. If I lived in the UK, I could ebay one for $10. Not so much in California.

[Random]

61-31-8-360-853 is the full part number.

edit: if you order it from Turner you can get a free Turner Motorsports decal!

[thesameguy]

Cheap parts brand?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/S42002/02071.oap?year=1998&make=BMW&model=528i&vi=1313613&ck=Search_brake+light+switch_1313613_2561&keyword=brake+light+switch#compatibilityTab_

[Random]

It can't be more unreliable than the BMW part. :p

[thesameguy]

True! *And* BWD offers Limited Lifetime Warranty.

I think that is probably the answer for an easy to replace part.

I think I will still hit up the junkyard as I'd like to grab some trim clips and see about that airbag.

[thesameguy]

The cheap switches aren't actually available anywhere... Not Napa, O'Reilly, or Autozone.

That leaves this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Light-Switch-BWD-S42002-fits-97-98-BMW-540i-/121647308481?hash=item1c52be9ec1:g:hpYAAOSwgQ9V3vm A&vxp=mtr

or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-SLS-498-Switch/dp/B0097W923I

Frankly, I don't have a lot of faith that second one is available either. At least Ebay policy suggests if it's listed, it's actually available.

Guess I'll try the jnnkyard, since an order out of Washington is unlikely to get here by Saturday when I'd want to smog it anyway.

[thesameguy]

Jeebus. It seems this switch is a one or maybe two year only switch. '96s don't have it. '99s don't have it. So lame.

I had a break in my schedule so I hit up the Sac PnP this morning. Grabbed the wrong switch from what I think was a '96 but could have been a '97. It's black, and has four pins instead of three plus a missing one. Chassis side wiring is the same. I popped it open and the mechanical bits look like "my" switch, but the electronic parts are very different. There are definitely supposed to be way more parts inside than mine have, so I guess mine has been tampered with. There are no other 5ers with a manual at the local junkyards and I'm *really* hesitant to call those bozos as Bavarian, so I think I'm going to order that ebay one.

The only car that had a useful door airbag was sitting with all the windows & sunroof open and the door panels removed so I did not feel good about grabbing that particular one. All the others were missing. Not too upset about that - I doubt PnP is cheaper than a $25 ebay order anyway.

Only upside of my trip this morning is one '98 Tahoe that they had just dragged it with an intact driver's door handle. Literally the only one in the entire yard. It's mine now - I can finally replace the one on the Suburban! ;)

[Godson]

Realoem.com for the part number.

Then go to pelican parts.

Profit.

[thesameguy]

I already have the part number... Pelican is the same price as Turner, ECS and everywhere else - $80. I am not buying an $80 brake light switch for a thousand dollar car - it just doesn't make sense.

[Random]

I already have the part number... Pelican is the same price as Turner, ECS and everywhere else - $80. I am not buying an $80 brake light switch for a thousand dollar car - it just doesn't make sense.

What's pretty weird is that the switch ONLY carries over to the E39 540i with a manual, according to Pelican. I have a hard time believing that BMW went with a bespoke brake light switch for two out of their umpteen car models in 1998. Maybe call Valley Motorwerks or Schatz and Krum (or even Niello?) and see if they know of another crossover?

[thesameguy]

I did some searching this morning to see if the earlier black -8541 part would functionally interchange with the white -8531 part I have, and some thread on some forum suggested this is a weird one year only part, but nobody commented on an interchange. Seems *crazy*, but it also seems crazy there would be three iterations of an effing brake light switch in one model generation in the first place - the <98, 98, and >98 varieties. And different versions from auto to manual? WTF?

I wonder if this -8531 part is just a cheapening - they yanked some electronics that were superfluous on manual transmission cars. It seems crazy in the age of programmable, modular electronics to even bother designing multiple parts instead of just programming differently. Maybe this part is shy a few bits and has three instead of four pins and BMW saves a penny on every 520/523/525/528/540 for a year before realizing it's stupid? Maybe this part was corrective for the black -8541 part on the E36 & early E39 and turned out to be a bad design too?

I am definitely putting this on my list of Stupid Stuff We've Forgotten like how to make automotive displays and water pump pulleys that last. :smh:

I think your idea is sound. I am going to call some dismantlers. They typically know what will interchange and what won't - and I can see if anyone has one. :D Although I don't like the idea of buying this type of part used, I really want it now and I'd like the opportunity to return it if it turns out this isn't my problem... Though I don't know how it couldn't be. :)

[Random]

It seem possible that they would stick the interlock electronics in the brake switch, but I can't think why you would do that. :|

[thesameguy]

I will add: The electronics in the -8531 part are MUCH simpler than the -8541 - the newer switch is just three components and the older one is probably a dozen. An IC vs. numerous capacitors, diodes, etc. Maybe the attempt at integration led to a high failure rate and they did a second redesign. Does also raise the question of whether they are in fact electrically compatible or not.

[thesameguy]

BMW Mercedes Auto Dismantling, unfortunately known as BM Auto Dismantling, had one 1998 540i with a manual transmission. I got the brake switch and the passenger side airbag for $70, which wasn't cheap-cheap, but cheap enough that my need for instant gratification overwhelmed my need for cheap. It's not installed, but plugged in it does work. The CHMSL housing is borked but good enough to work, so that bulb is replaced too and the warning display out. I'll get the airbag installed this weekend & I assume the car will pass smog and then it's for sale.

I know the front passenger window doesn't work, the sunroof doesn't work, there is the mismatched tire issue (which I may address), the wheel bearing, and general wear, but it's not a total trash heap and all the important things work and work well, including the AC. Not sure what to try and get for it. Parts cars are $600-$1000, all the middle of the road cars are around $3k (high mileage, salvage, etc.). I think this car is probably, actually as good as those cars overall, but I'm not aiming high as I don't know for sure. Lots of people value good paint over a car that actually runs right & stuff. I think $2k will move it pretty quickly. I'd settle for less.

[Godson]

Welcome to BMW ownership

[thesameguy]

Yeah. I'll stick to the '80s ones. This thing is GONE.

It does reaffirm that I made the right choice with the XJR vs. a 540i.

[thesameguy]

Shitty day. Trying to make myself feel better by staying busy.

BMW is smogged and posted. And hopefully it doesn't linger. ;)

[Random]

trad u 4 a s10 pu?

[thesameguy]

So, you'd consider yourself a Craigslist pro, then? :lol:

I'm already bracing for the inevitable "dose is run," "best price" and one question at a time emails.

I probably blew it by posting on a Wednesday, but we'll see.

[thesameguy]

I have a pair of Goodyear Eagle F1s in 225/45-17 I am probably never going to use and was thinking about putting both of them on the front, then getting two matching tires in the back. Unfortunately, that is not possible:

RR = ContiProContact Sport A/S in 235/45-17
RL = Fullway SW260 in 235/45-17
FR = Pzero Nero in 225/45-17
FL = Continental ExtremeContact DWS in 235/45-17

How does this happen?

I wonder if there is any value in the 17" meshies? Maybe I could find a set of lesser wheels with matching tires and swap out, sell the 17s separately?

Edit: Oh, stock size is 235 not 225. Bollocks.

[Random]

The "Style 5s" are pretty popular.

Lemme look at the scrap tires that were on the Motegis I bought--one might be a 235...lol

[thesameguy]

There is this...

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/5413882705.html

If it wasn't $60 to mount & balance them, I'd go ahead and do it. Of course, what do I need with the four wackadoo tires that come off?

Man, it's the damn worst trying to make a cheap broken car less broken.

[Random]

You should buy us a tire changing machine.

And a balancer.

Just sayin'.

[thesameguy]

Don't think I haven't thought about it. :lol: Used ones aren't that expensive.

However, I am completely out of room for anything. I am trying to make a serious press to liquidate less-used items to clear out some space. Really bummed that none of those items are useful on the BMW.... although I think BMW and Jaguar share a bolt pattern, and I have four 18" Jaguar wheels with excellent tires on them. That would kill two birds with one stone... but leave the 528 with goofy looking wheels. :lol:

[Random]

I have a 235/40-17 in a Dunlop ZII* if that helps. It's currently on a wheel, though.

[thesameguy]

Thanks for the option! I'm going to swing by the local mom & pop tire store tomorrow and see if they have anything that'll help match with some other tire. :lol: Maybe I'll email that guy from above and see if he can help on the price or needs something I have. I guess I could also always hit up whatever El Camino Tire & Wheel is calling itself this week and pick up a full set of cheap Chinese tires. $250 is all of them, mounted & balanced. :lol: :(

[neanderthal]

How much are you selling it for?

[thesameguy]

I am asking $2k, but would go for $1.6k without much fuss. This may be one of those situations where I need to list a much higher asking price - I think with a $2k price tag people assume it's much worse than it really is. My default search on CL is everything between $111 and $2222, and this car is nicer than *all* of those. ;)

[thesameguy]

Enamored with the Autel MD802 all over again - once you know the car's designation, it works like a charm. New airbag in, code gone. Wish I'd known before a $10 adapter was all that was needed to pull BMW early OBDII codes! Live and learn...

[neanderthal]

I am asking $2k, but would go for $1.6k without much fuss. This may be one of those situations where I need to list a much higher asking price - I think with a $2k price tag people assume it's much worse than it really is. My default search on CL is everything between $111 and $2222, and this car is nicer than *all* of those. ;)

I have several big purchases planned in the next couple of months, including the bike and all the bloody expensive accessories you need (I believe in ATGATT; all the gear, all the time. So i have to buy a helmet, gloves, jacket, back protector (if the jacket doesn't come with one,) boots, a backpack and maybe even a complete suit, but i'll use the bike mostly for commuting initially, so the suit can wait. I just bought a computer today.

If you don't get any real bites by about mid March, hit me up and hopefully I won't have blown my wad completely. In the meantime i'll ask around with my fam if anybody is looking.

[thesameguy]

Appreciate it! I think there is a good chance it will be around - I have next weekend to sell it, but the weekend following I'm in Portland, then SF, then Reno. If it doesn't go in the next seven days it'll be here on the 19th. ;) Crap... that reminds me I'll be in SoCal 4/2.

[thesameguy]

Hmmmm.

We've run into a situation with the Fiat which today ended with "the dealer is unable to repair the problem, so on behalf of FCA US LLC, we agree to repurchase or replace the subject vehicle pursuant to Civil Code 1793.2(d)(2)(B)."

Not sure what to do here.

My understanding is that under the California Song-Beverly act, which is like a Lemon Law but is not "the California Lemon Law," we have the choice and can ask they replace or repurchase - they don't get a say. The replacement vehicle can be any vehicle, which we can accept or reject. The repurchase - even on a lease - requires that FCA "refund" all deposits, down payments, and monthly payments and we pay for mileage up to the first time the problem was identified, which is 2/15. Roughly, that's a replacement car or $5500 in our pocket. It's worth noting that $5500 is more than we have into it right now due to the $2500 rebate we got from the state.

Due to circumstances that developed post 500e purchase we don't specifically need it. We swapped '84 Suburban for '99 Suburban which the girl doesn't mind driving, and gas is cheap right now. We're babysitting a 2003 Santa Fe which the girl doesn't mind driving. I have the SPG, Fiero, and XR4Ti in excellent shape and haven't touched the Jag in a year (smh) so she's got that too.

I am really torn here. We like the 500e a lot but it's a rare opportunity where you get to drive a car for two years and then make $2000. I honestly don't think that's fair to FCA, but OTOH five grand is a no-stress deposit on a Model 3 and she can drive the burban, SF, or Jag until it's available. I don't like being unfair (even if it's just in my head), but walking away with something extra is incredibly tempting.

Bugger.

[Kchrpm]

I feel bad, because just the other day I was thinking of an electric car and thought "man, tsg would like this, but he already has the Fiat," and now I've forgotten what that car was...

[thesameguy]

We've been anticipating the completion the lease and talked about a lot of options - I mean, everyone has an e-something... eGolf, eSoul, eFocus. You have the current-tech "bespoke" entries like the Leaf, i3, and something else I'm forgetting. You have the next-gen vehicles like the Bolt and 3. And then you've got all the hybrids.

The attraction for us with the 500e was the intersection of features - 90 mile range, 40a charging, small size (good for parking downtown), and last but hardly least the dealer... which is Fiat/Maserati. The dealer experience has been as good as you'd expect. The dealer experience is what really turns me off about the Bolt. I don't care how good it is, dealing with a GM dealer is AWFUL, even the fancy new Portland-based GM dealer we now have. I'm really inclined to stay with luxury brands for that alone.

The two front-runners in our discussions have been the i3 and waiting for the 3. The runners-up would be another 500e (seriously), or an eFocus... even though an eFocus means dealing with the Ford dealer (who is as bad as the GM dealer), at least we like the Focus to start.

But we've not ruled out hanging onto the Santa Fe and driving it into the ground. I should only need to keep it for work another two months (case goes to trial in two weeks), but nothing says I can't keep it longer. It will need a timing belt soon, but I'm not adverse to a $250 timing belt kit and then plowing it into the dirt. It surely has another year on it without intervention, and then we get to see what's going square into 2017.

I am slowly talking myself into taking the money. We already have the next ten lease payments for the Fiat banked, so we'd basically be sitting on eight grand for whatever we decide, whenever we decide it.

[Random]

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/5455624291.html

[novicius]

:lol: :up:

You don't want to pony up to a Tesla PTSD90?

[thesameguy]

I won't even pony up for a FiST! :lol:

I have been turning over in my head what the next step is. No answers I really like TBH.

[FaultyMario]

The answer is simple, Tesla.

It is a bit unfair but, like they say when life gives you lemons...

[thesameguy]

I like the Tesla as an idea, but the timing is an issue. Definitely on the radar though!

I spoke with Chrysler's buyback people today (a company called ISG) and got all the preliminaries sorted. I owe them a copy of the registration, and they'll send the buyback offer - which is consistent with my read of the code. It's:

· Down payment made at time of purchase
· All payments made to your financial institution (not including late fees or service charges)
· Mileage until the problem was first reported - so 7508 miles X purchase price of vehicle/120,000, which I think is about $2200 assuming the MSRP was $36k like I think it was.

The only thing I don't understand is how the rebates figure into this, if they do at all. Government rebates on cars wasn't a thing when these laws were written.

[Random]

Any local Saab specialists left? Asking for a co-worker, whose bf has an 04 Saab of some sort.

[thesameguy]

Two - one of which I can't remember the name, the other of which is Marian's:

http://www.saabsacramentorepairs.com/

Marian is the place I'd recommend anyway. He's top-notch, although very by the book. I like that, but some people get bent out of shape when there's a right way and a cheap way, and they don't want the former. ;) He has all the fancy tools needed for any <2010 Saab.

[thesameguy]

Blah... Looks like I am going to have to get tires for the Fiat. Man, talk about bad timing. Whatever.

Stock size is 185/55-15 which is a pretty unusual tire these days. I can +0 to 195/50 and nobody is going to notice. I think that's a Miata or maybe Honda tire size, so hopefully I can find some not-used-up used tires to throw on. Worst case, TR has Hankook somethings for $50ea in that size. Got about two weeks to figure it out.

[thesameguy]

$5700.22 is the net. There is $2600 in a checking account to cover the next ten payments (I know, bad use of money, but it's how my brain works), so I guess we're camped on about eight grand to do whatever we feel like. Which right now is nothing - though we may go ahead and get onto the Model 3's waiting list. Weird how this unfolded.

The trial involving the Hyundai got continued until September (go justice system! :down:) so we've got that for another seven months. Of course that means it's gonna need tires too, and it needs an axle, and it's got a gnarly front end clunk from something, and a screech and startup that is probably a belt drive component that is wanting to die. I definitely see why old Hyundais turn into total piles. I am having a hard time caring that it's turning into a pile even as I watch it happen. It's only a couple hundred bucks worth of parts - but on a car I just can't seem to care about. Bah.

In any case, the loss of the Fiat is disappointing but hardly crippling, and it's not often you get to log 24,000 miles for basically free so I can't complain.

Poor little Fiat. :(

[thesameguy]

While cleaning out the 528 last week I found this:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/98_528i_autobahn.jpg

:cool:

[Random]

While cleaning out the 528 last week I found this:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/98_528i_autobahn.jpg

:cool:

Neat! Factory delivery, I assume...

[thesameguy]

It would appear that way... anyone who'd bother to order a 5er with a manual and 17s in '98 clearly has some class. :D

[thesameguy]

Narrowly escaped having to make a choice about tires for the Fiat. My parents' 500e has a solid 5/32 all around, so we are swapping rolling stock and then I'll tackle new tires for them in a month or so. I feel much better about buying them new tires than Chrysler Financial Corp. :up:

I am getting ready to get ready to take a fridge to SoCal and just placed a super-boring order for super-boring pickup truck* parts. Went through the cooling system (out of necessity) when I got it, this round is tune-up parts.... a whole new ignition system and an O2 & coolant temp sensor for good measure. I am hoping the sensors fix the 1000rpm idle. If not, the next step is $100 in IAC & EGR. I also grabbed a 3M headlight restoration kit for it, as the dim '90s plastic headlights are not what I want for 1000 miles on Highway 99 at night. I'm already gearing up for the inevitable rockauto ship fail, too. :up: :lol: :down:

I am knee-deep in home updates and just haven't had time or energy for much wrenching, but if the finances allow I have some exciting (for me) stuff planned for April. Gonna pull the fuel tank out of the SPG and swap it for the '90+ tank which I think will accommodate a Walbro 255lph pump with minor work. I'm also pulling the motor out so I can easily replace the power steering rack, remove the power steering pump, and adapt some sort of electro-hydraulic pump. The easy answer is an MR2 pump, but there are few less expensive, more recent options that might work as well. Most of the newer ones expect CAN bus input for things like road speed and such, but from what I've read those will tend to operate in a fail-safe mode without that input. If that mode isn't "horrifically overboosted" I'm willing to give it a try. ;) Finally, I'm going to see about employing a Saab 9000 electronic VSS mated to a Dakota Digital speedo adapter to run the factory fuel injection. Oddly, the VSS output does not match what the FI expects for input... in a normal application the speedo handles the conversion but that's a PITA to adapt - I'd rather give Dakota $100. Plus, I might be able to use the CAN shield for an Arduino to feed the steering rack. If I'm that talented. ;)



* I just read why we likely call pickup trucks pickup trucks... back in the day Sears sold a kit to turn a Model A into a truck... and you'd go pickup the kit. Ford was calling their truck a runabout at the time, but the picked up truck kit name stuck and Studebaker just called their truck a Pick-Up - possibly the first factory effort - in '13 to start with.

[Godson]

S2000 steering rack

[thesameguy]

Definitely not swapping a rack - just replacing a belt-driven pump with an electric motor-driven pump. Something from a second-gen MR2, Spyder, Mazda 3, Saturn Astra, and I think Focus. *Maybe* a Mini if they aftermarket has sorted them out. The S2000 is an all-in-one deal, and I'm not prepared to do that much fabrication. If I was, I would probably go for something really common - like a Chevy Equinox or Ford Focus or something, not a limited production 15 year old car. That's the only reason why I'm not just shopping old MR2 parts... although those pumps tend to be reliable, if I can pull a pump from a 2005 Mazda 3 that's a way better option in my mind than a 20 year old MR2. :)

[CudaMan]

In my time on MR2 forums and in the community (I'm more distant now) EHPS pumps have not been a problem area on the cars. I can't actually remember hearing about a single problem. They also reduce the assist to zero above something like 40mph so you get decent road feel at speed.

What's the reason for the conversion on the Merkur? Does its P/S pump suck? Aiming for an extra couple horsepowers?

[Godson]

I was saying S2k, because a good working EPAS is like 100-150$, and the controller is only 50-150. The Mr2 option sounds like the better choice.

[thesameguy]

In my time on MR2 forums and in the community (I'm more distant now) EHPS pumps have not been a problem area on the cars. I can't actually remember hearing about a single problem. They also reduce the assist to zero above something like 40mph so you get decent road feel at speed.

What's the reason for the conversion on the Merkur? Does its P/S pump suck? Aiming for an extra couple horsepowers?

Mission is on the SPG - reasoning is multiple:

1. I find the assist on the c900 to be excessive. I have been driving around since '10 without power steering and it's a little too unassisted, but I actually think I prefer no assist to factory assist for the most part. It's really just rutted roads at low speed when bump steer becomes unmanageable that I want to finally get away from. Assist can be reduced by changing the pressure relief valve in the pump but...
2. Power steering pumps for c900s are seriously old tech, located in a crap place, and all the remans suck. Like so many other of my automotive missions when I arrive at the intersection of newer. more reliable parts and increased performance I can't say no.
3. Straight-up curiosity. :D

I have read a lot about the MR2 pump and it definitely seems they are simply not a reliability problem. The only reason to look elsewhere is current cost (MR2 pump = 3x Mazda 3 pump) and future availability as the MR2 is old and pretty low production. I would prefer to do this once, and not end up with more unobtainium under the hood. Also, and this is total speculation, it *seems* that a newer pump is probably better tech (maybe more reliable, or maybe more efficient, etc.) and I like the idea of being able to control assist by faking speed inputs. It would be AWESOME to have high assist for DD, but turn it way off or down low for track days. (Although it's unlikely I will ever track the SPG again... but lessons learned could be applied elsewhere!)

Edit: Worth mentioning is that the Dakota Digital box would be able to output a VSS signal the MR2 pump understands, so there's that!



I was saying S2k, because a good working EPAS is like 100-150$, and the controller is only 50-150. The Mr2 option sounds like the better choice.

Believe me I know - and I am totally enamored with the idea of full EPAS. But, I just don't have it in me to adapt whole racks right now. I may very well explore this idea on the Fiero, though! Since the front end is really empty on it, swapping racks around is remarkably easy. A relatively common swap on the Fiero is actually a 4th gen f-body rack with an MR2 pump. Neat stuff. But lots of work is being done with straight EPAS, so I'm going to chillax until it's better explored. ;)

[Godson]

When you are ready, I have researched in depth on the s2k rack and all

[thesameguy]

W00t. DTD is having their $100 of $400 thing on Ebay again. Time to buy some tires!!!

[Random]

Saab question from another forum:



Long shot but hoping maybe one of the Saab-lunatics on here have any insight.

All new rotors and pads, plus new calipers on front.Good new fluid.
The oddity is a very hard brake pedal. I've read other reports of this, but what is different is I do not have any Brake or ABS warning lights staying on.
Also, I have confirmed that the ABS does work in an emergency braking scenario. (weeee!)
And I do not recall ever hearing the pump noise that everyone refers to at startup. So that means the black bomb accumulator is never gaining pressure?
The brake pedal also does not fully return to its normal position - I have temporarily rigged some extra springs up to aid return at this point for doing test drives.
Not the brake light switch causing that issue, I've already replaced and adjusted that.
Fuses all look good, but I will replace them all again to be sure.
So should I be looking at vacuum lines? Or the pump (which I am not even sure where it lives under the bonnet).


edit: here's the thread if you want to join the fun directly: click (http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthread.php?54316-SBLMS-1992-Saab-900S-Convertible-Hairdresser-Car)

[thesameguy]

Man, I'd really need to know what "hard pedal" refers to... like, it's difficult to push the brake pedal, or you have to push the pedal hard to get brakes. I would *personally* associate "hard pedal" with the former, but....

The whole system is electric - there is no vacuum booster like newer systems. Back in the '80s ATE and Teves used an electric motor for assist, that's what the accumulator is for... it stores pressure from the motor. Aside from the control unit under the back seat, it's all self-contained. It doesn't connect to anything but itself and 12v.

I don't think there is anything going on in there mechanically - it's just a pushrod into a master cylinder like any system. If "hard pedal" means it's difficult to push the pedal, that sure seems like a mechanical problem - the pushrod is binding in its bore or the pivot is binding.

Tf the motor isn't working, then you have no power assist. If "hard pedal" means it's tough to get action from the brakes, I'd look here.

The ABS lights SHOULD illuminate when turn the key on, then go off a bit later. If they don't, someone has hosed you. Next text would be pumping & holding the brake pedal 10-40 times in the driveway with the key on, engine off. Somewhere in there the pump won't be able to keep up and the warning lights will illuminate. After 10-20 pumps you *will* hear the motor running to recharge the accumulator. If it doesn't, someone has hosed you.

The "brakes" on the ABS c900 are unobtanium. When you could buy them, prices started at $1200 and went up. You can retrofit non-ABS brakes from an earlier c900 without too much work. The units are reasonably reliable so a junkyard could be an option too. Replacement it's awful, but super clumsy. It's a giant piece of equipment bolted to the firewall! I have never heard of the computer failing ever - just the engine compartment hydraulics.

[thesameguy]

Got about no sleep last night, but managed a pretty solid day today. Skipped out of work 10 minutes early to beat traffic and about 37 seconds into my drive the XR started making a weird noise. A loud rattle/thwack, somewhere underneath. Did not seem connected to acceleration or deceleration, directly connected to road speed, but managing the throttle just so netted silence. I drove on it a little while expecting something terrible to happen as to shorten the troubleshooting cycle, but nothing terrible happened. Car seemde fine, just loud. Eventually I couldn't take it so I pulled into a parking lot for an inspection. NOTHING! Drove some more. Wheel bearing? Driveshaft u-joint? NOTHING! Just as I turned onto my street, the noise stopped. Drove around the block a few times and could not reproduce it. FML!

Got home and jacked it up and could not create the noise, but found the rear left caliper dragging pretty substantially. From the looks of it, the brake pad springs got sprung so my best guess is the pads rattling around in the carrier. On the one hand, WTF? Three out of four calipers have now failed. OTOH, the XR has been actual problem-free motoring for a year now so I can't be mad. Plus, these are junkyard calipers from a '92 Ford Taurus that I bought in '04 or '05 :lol:

Of course this would happen two days after I place a rockauto order. Of course this would happen two days after placing the only rockauto order that has shipped on time in years. Of course this would happen when I don't want to spend money on cars and I know I've been camped on spare junkyard calipers (always buy redundantly!) for ten years causing me to be tempted to use ten year old stored junkyard calipers.

[thesameguy]

Man, Ford Taurus rear caliper is 'spensive.

[novicius]

Mustang GT (specifically non-Cobra) calipers not an option?

[thesameguy]

The XR has factory drums, and the common conversion is for Taurus calipers. A rare intersection of ear depth and handbrake cable entry angle. I know there is some work being done to use other calipers (Escape and Fiesta, FWIW), but any change would require a new mounting bracket and brake lines at least. :|

[thesameguy]

Ha... the Taurus brake caliper was also used on fox body Mustangs. :lol:

[thesameguy]

And also... I forgot that this brake issue is good timing. The other issue the XR has is that it seems like over time the radiator fans are melting the fuse. Not blowing it, but actually melting the plastic. The first time it happened I assumed I had a goofy fuse, but it happened again two weeks ago. I really don't think ATC fuses are a good choice for constant 30a amp usage - another crap design aspect of the crap Derale controller I am using. I am debating on whether to use a more appropriate fuse (Maxi, likely) or fuse each fan independently. A single maxi is easier and cheaper, but the advantage of two fuses is that if one fan pops I'm not hosed. Not so bad to park the XR for a couple weeks while I deal with that.

[Random]

Man, I'd really need to know what "hard pedal" refers to... like, it's difficult to push the brake pedal, or you have to push the pedal hard to get brakes. I would *personally* associate "hard pedal" with the former, but....


Reply:


It's #2 - push hard to get brakes because no assist. And as he describes, yes these stupid black bomb accumulators are stupid. So it's the pump motor I am zeroing in on now. I will go thru the pump process again.
There was only one at the junkyard that I had pulled some other pieces off, but didn't have the correct torx bit to get the whole master/black bomb out, and when I was ready to go back they had already crushed it. :mad:

[thesameguy]

I have not experienced a high number of pump failures, but it's definitely on the table. I'd verify the lights are indeed testing when the key is turned - it could be something stupid like a blown fuse, unplugged computer, or disconnected harness. If the everything is electrically plugged in but the motor not working, you *will* have faults displayed.

Also, S4 just sold, not to me. Man, really takes a load off. Thinking about maybe test driving a Cruze diesel, or possibly setting us up for a future lawsuit with a VW Sportwagen TDI. :lol:

[Random]

And I now have a working pump.....which then confirms the stupid black bomb accumulator is shot. Only gets to 3 brake pedal pumps before the pump turns back on and the dash lights come back on.
So now I gotta find a "new" bomb. Actual new seems impossible, even the GM equivalents are few and far between, and $300+ asking prices.
Contacting the Georgia English-Swedes to see what they have.


:up:

[thesameguy]

The accumulators are indeed getting tough to find. Almost like impossible. Even the people that make specialty replacements and such are out. :(

[Random]

Lots of conversations about re-plumbing a standard vac style booster with no ABS, but nobody seems to have actually done it and document it.


Any thoughts?

[thesameguy]

Done it several times. Not hard, just time consuming. The rough bit is that the parts you want are NLA. The better setup is using the booster/master from an '88 or '89, but that is two years of production. There is no place to get that booster. If you find one in a junkyard you can have it rebuilt, though. The -'87 booster is pretty easy to find, but the -'87 master is not a match for the '90+ calipers. It works, it's just not ideal.

In any case, the pieces you need are:

Booster
Master cylinder
Brake lines from the MC to the distribution block
Entire brake pedal bracket off the firewall
Distribution block from the firewall*
Brake lines from the firewall to the rear axle*

* You need these parts because the ABS is 3-channel, so there is only one brake from the firewall to the rear axle. To use factory parts you need to run that fourth channel. You could "make t work" 3-channel using some other MC and probably a proportioning valve, but man, I would not recommend that. ;)

One one car, we dumped the whole factory setup and used a dual cylinder master. Only rough bit was getting the pivot point in the pedal properly adjusted. Some "calculations" involving piston bores, MC bores, and precise timing of galactic expansion.

[speedpimp]

Man, Ford Taurus rear caliper is 'spensive.

But the heater core isn't. Changing one out is going to be a PITA though.

[thesameguy]

AWFUL. BTDT on my SHO.

[thesameguy]

Received my package from rockauto right on time, and had a break in the rain on Sunday for some car work. Spent probably 45 minutes fighting with the POS Dayco serpentine belt kit. What a damned disaster! The kit came with an idler pulley, which makes no sense because the car doesn't have one - that got things off on the wrong foot. The tensioner's pulley was probably 15-25% larger than the factory pulley, which didn't give me confidence. Once I got the tensioner on, I realized it has NO provision for releasing tension!!! WTF? Every tensioner I have ever seen has some sort of provision for levering with a breaker - a square 3/8" or 1/2" hole somewhere. NOTHING on the Dayco. It took forever to find the combination of tools and metal scrap to keep the tensioner "open" to get the belt on... the super-sized pulley didn't help. Really upset about that whole debacle, but I didn't want to want to deal with the exchange process on something I will never need to work on again. I've had such good luck with other Dayco products, but this thing is AWFUL.

Fortunately the CTS was a breeze, and even though the exhaust was very rusty the O2 sensor took maybe two minutes. :up: Got the distributor cap & rotor changed along with the wires. Had to leave the plugs for later, as dad came by and we swapped his Fiat's wheels for ours to get Ernie ready to be turned in. Happy I don't have to spend money on Chrysler Capital Corp. Instead, I'll buy my parents new tires and I feel good about that. After that the rain came back, so I had to get back to... GTA... ;)

I did have a chance to start the F150 and it seems the idle is unaffected by the work. Although not at 1100, it is at 900 and there is a good chance it'll climb higher after running as it's done that before. Seems like maybe the TB, IAC, or EGR is still wonky. I am going to leave it for a while, as I know EEC-IV could take a long time to relearn idle. I still have my fingers crossed that's it.

[thesameguy]

Put gas in the Fiero yesterday, went all OCD on the crud collected in the fuel filler recess. I was so happy with the result, I drove off without putting the cap back on. DAMMIT!

rockauto says the Fiero has the same gas cap as the Saab. Got a few spares for that!!

Also, rockauto sells most of their non-locking gas caps in the $4-$7 range depending random brand, name brand, etc. Autozone only sells the crap lowest-bidder CST stuff starting at $15. Jeebus! I will definitely put a Saab gas cap on a Fiero before giving Autozone $15 for one!

[speedpimp]

AWFUL. BTDT on my SHO.

Turns out its not the heater core, just the heater hoses. Place doing the work is charging my dad $200+ to do the job. I would've helped him out if I hadn't sprung to get the front end rebuilt six months ago.

[thesameguy]

You know, $200 sounds like a lot to me, but with labor prices the way they are it just isn't. Hoses are much better than the core, that's for sure!

[thesameguy]

Yep, Saab gas cap fits a Fiero. Rad.

[CudaMan]

Saab was in cahoots with GM all along!

[thesameguy]

Sure does seem like it. Drat.

[thesameguy]

One way you typically do not want your spark plugs described is "finger tight." So it is with some embarrassment I report that's how the F150's plugs were screwed in. I removed them with a spark plug socket and my right hand... which isn't even my dominant hand. WTF?

Put new Motorcraft coppers in and then drove it to work for a lovely all-nighter. Truck *definitely* runs better - more power off idle, and it sure seems like it takes less throttle to drive normally. Idle used to stick at 1000rpm and occasionally bump up to 1100 or 1200rpm for a little while, but now it seems to hang out at 900rpm and bump up to 1000rpm every once in a while. Definitely some improvement. Hoping that it'll drop some more once the ECM does a little learnin', but I'm not terribly confident it will. It's not even remotely a concern right now.

I also applied the latest iteration of the 3M "mid grade" headlight polishing kit - that one that includes the bad-ass 3000 grit pad but does not include the final "protectant" goop. They've changed the system a little - it still works as good as ever, but now includes more sanding disks. Since headlights on the F150 are physically small, I probably have enough left to do the lights on the Suburban, which I'm totally gonna do as we are probably taking it up to Reno this weekend. Weather calls for rain and mild temps, but I'm not getting stuck up there without 4WD just in case someone decides to start shutting down freeways.

In Reno, we're going to see Breaking Benjamin, one of my favorite nu-metal bands of all time. They've got a rare national tour going on (last one was in '03, I think) and we've got back stage passes. All. Win.

[Yeti]

I'm here for Feetwoo updates, fingers crossed you haven't sold it.

[Random]

Snow level's going to drop as the storm comes through, fwiw.

[thesameguy]

I'm here for Feetwoo updates, fingers crossed you haven't sold it.

Nope, not sold. Just resting til things dry up. Unfortunately I got it all sorted just as things got cold. :(

I am hoping this year to get the courage to attack the climate control system. I'm told by people who probably know it's voodoo, and there is only person who has dissected it sufficiently to know how it works. Because I am me, I refuse to accept that. It's 1960's technology. It just can't be that hard - just resistors and analog circuits. Or something else science-y sounding. HVAC or no, it's definitely getting some road time this year!


Snow level's going to drop as the storm comes through, fwiw.

Minimum temps are in the mid to high 30s, so we should be fine. We'll be travelling around noon on Saturday and Sunday, spending the middle bit at the Grand Sierra Resort. But, yeah, definitely not taking any chances!

...

I have had no less than 20 people email me with "Very interested in the BMW, have cash and would like to come see it" or something materially similar. Not a single person has followed up. I know the crap weather puts a damper on used car shopping, but whatever. I deleted the ad and just ordered a set of Kumho ASXs for it. I realize it's stupid to invest money in a car I can't keep and nobody has seen much less in a thing nobody has complained about, but the stupid mini-tire is driving me up the wall. I don't even want to exercise it with that little troll up front. Figured I'd capitalize on the Discount Tire Ebay sale. :shrug:

Maybe worth mentioning: I sold my old/spare computer, an i7-2600 over the weekend, so those proceeds are what is buying the tires. When I consider how much that machine originally cost and what I sold it for, it made me a little sad. :|

[JoshInKC]

One way you typically do not want your spark plugs described is "finger tight." So it is with some embarrassment I report that's how the F150's plugs were screwed in. I removed them with a spark plug socket and my right hand... which isn't even my dominant hand. WTF?

Hah, btdt. My friend had a '69 Cougar with a 390, which had a misfire and ran rough from day one. After extensive diagnostic work and refreshing the rest of the ignition system, I decided that the plugs were next. Passenger side was no problem, but drivers was an issue... Ended up unbolting the motor mounts and jacking it up to get access (another option is to use a hole-saw on the inner fenders and trunk plugs for repair). After a completely excessive amount of time (and finding that they looked pretty fresh), I finally got to the very last and most difficult one, and found that A.) It was at best finger tight; and B.) That I'm pretty sure it hadn't been changed in at least 25 years, if ever. They were so ridiculously mismatched that we took a side-by-side picture of them (which I should ask him to dig up).
Ran great afterwards.
For reference, this is the same basic setup, but without the ram-air.
1621

[Godson]

Was that chris' car?

[JoshInKC]

My former room-mate Eric's red XR7 convertible. He sold it ca. '04 or '05, and it apparently lives in Denmark(? Holland? Something like that.) now.
He replaced it with a blue 289 powered '67 hardtop a few years later (MUCH easier to work on), which we picked up from Dallas that he then sold ca. 2012.

[thesameguy]

Maybe we shouldn't complain... guess loose plugs are better than overtightened ones. :lol:

But, seriously, how hard is it to just install them right?

[thesameguy]

Started getting timing belt costs together for the Santa Fe and decided I should probably poke around and see if maybe I could find a sticker under the hood or something to see if maybe there was an indicator of when it was last done. Instead, I found the factory "maintenance log" detailing the car's entire service history. Facepalm + hellyeah! The previous owner took really good care of this thing - reliable and complete service records! Belt was done at 140k and I am totally off the hook. It's currently at 170k and it has a 60k interval. Hells to the yeah.

[thesameguy]

This site:

http://www.midwestconnectorsupply.com/

allows you to search by cavities.

I wish other sites let you search by cavities too.

[Kchrpm]

Gross.

[Godson]

Dude! I so wish I knew of them sooner

[thesameguy]

Gross.

Don't judge.

[thesameguy]

No more Fiat.

It was hard walking away from it - I didn't realize how attached to it I'd gotten. Perhaps my sentimentality was exacerbated by the knowledge that poor Ernie is probably going to get crushed. He deserves better. I wish we could have been even more patient, but 7:59a "my car won't start" freakouts don't get my days going right.

The good news is that UPS dropped off a set of Kumho ASXs for the BMW so I can get going on that. Still haven't relisted it for sale - have two more trips this month so I'm just going to hang onto it until April and then get serious about offloading it.

[Yeti]

Bummer.

[thesameguy]

Yeah, the electric car was super cool. We are definitely going that direction again, I'm just not sure when. If - by magic - Chevy re-ups something similar to their introductory 2017 Volt lease we might go for it. Otherwise I think the most likely option is going to be a Tesla 3 in a year.

[TheBenior]

I'm interested to see if the Tesla Model 3 leads to more manufacturer's electric cars actually being sold in the Midwest. For now, the options are Model S, Leaf, and... I-MIEV.

[thesameguy]

I think since the production costs are so high and the profits so low, most manufacturers are directing their product to states that require it... like California. From research and limited test drives, I will say that the variables between ICE and EV are, well sad. There is a big difference between one ICE and the next, but when you're talking about cars optimized for economy and built with parts that are essentially identical, the practical differences between a Leaf, eGolf and an eFocus seem to be about nil. Having the S, Leaf, and Mitsucrappi kinda addresses all three basic categories.... you may not be missing much! ;)

[novicius]

Obviously Electric Car market growth is also going to be tied to the recharging stations.

Might not be a bad market for 7-Eleven, SpeedyStop, Casey's General Store and others to investigate (or auto companies to subsidize). When Ma & Pa Kent feel like they can get 50 miles of super-quick juice at any po-dunk convenience store, they'll feel a lot more comfortable going all-electric. #obvious

[thesameguy]

I don't think that's possible on most cars. 50 miles of range is two hours at 240v/30a for most cars. You'd need to support Tesla's supercharging or that new J17XX (???) to get anything done at a 7 Eleven while filling a Super Big Gulp.

IMHO, people just need to put a little more thought into their lives. I am somewhat OCD about being efficient and I've planned my commute and my minimal errand running to be as optimal as possible. I frequently shift out one task from today to tomorrow to improve routing to save gas. I can't handle it when people plan their days poorly and end up criss-crossing around town, wasting resources. For us, driving an electric car was never a challenge. Everything was quantified and planned. I think we used public chargers maybe five times in 28 months - and only because of the defect which ultimate lead to getting rid of the car! Like so many things, if people just paid a little more attention to what they're doing they would realize 100 miles is PLENTY for just about everyone.

That's really a bigger issue. Too many people feel their way through finances instead of looking at them with Excel. I am 100% behind getting something purely because you want it, but you need to acknowledge that you want it rather than choosing to believe it's the financially smart thing to do. By way of example, my parents have gotten a lot of use of their Fiat as a runabout - go to the store, to go the mall, go to fucking Costco, etc. Ours sits in the driveway most every weekend all weekend, because Safeway delivers our food, Nordstrom Rack delivers our clothes, and Amazon delivers our crap. I do my best not to "run errands." For my parents, the Fiat was a variable because they never knew how far they needed it to go. For us, it was not - it needs to go 44 miles M.T.T.F and 72 miles on Wednesday. That's it, pretty much ever.

People have this tendency to say "How can an EV fit into my life?" but I think the real, better question is "What can I do so that a resource-saving EV can be a part of a bigger change?"

[thesameguy]

Just got spammed from the Fiat dealership:

2016 FIAT 500e
LEASE FOR $ 69/MO + TAX*
36 months lease. $3,999 due at signing

:lol:

[Random]

Marketing never seems to talk to Accounts.

[thesameguy]

Wasting time, waiting for servers and pondering short term leases to fill the hole until we can get a look at a Model 3...

Scroll down to the section on the Corolla...

http://leasehackr.com/blog/2016/3/4/compact-sedan-leases-ranked-civic-focus-jetta-cruze

[thesameguy]

Also, $60/mo Cruze limited for two years is VERY tempting. I wonder what the residual on a diesel vs. 1.4t looks like. If it's the same 62%, a lease would be like $120/mo for 24 months. OTOH, what is the fuel cost savings going from gas to diesel? Is it a difference of $1440?

[JoshInKC]

Well, according to fueleconomy.gov The epa says the ltd averages 30 mpg mixed - In the diesel, I averaged just under 41 over the last 6 months, but that's mostly highway at 81 mph.
Diesel/Gasoline prices seem to be really variable based on locality - In some places, diesel is only a little more expensive ~$.08/gal, in other places it might be $.25.

Do with that info what you will, if you want some more data let me know.

[pl8ster]

Hilarious that until very recently, you were able to get a 2-year lease on a Volt that netted you $24 for the lease term, when you factored in the $700 Costco gift card that was part of the deal.

[novicius]

I don't think that's possible on most cars. 50 miles of range is two hours at 240v/30a for most cars. You'd need to support Tesla's supercharging or that new J17XX (???) to get anything done at a 7 Eleven while filling a Super Big Gulp.
Yep I'm talking about charging at Tesla Supercharger charging rates.

Besides people run errands. They want to go out on a whim and feel like where ever they go, they can charge and charge relatively quickly. It's really not range anxiety, it's charge anxiety (and cost) that's stopping this revolution, IMO.

[Kchrpm]

I didn't want to comment on the discussion of people needing to be more mindful and plan ahead more for everything they do. Short version: people don't want to spend $30k on something that limits their capabilities. Could they work around it? Sure. Or they could keep what they already have, or spend $30k on something just as nice (probably nicer) comfort/features wise that doesn't limit their capabilities. They aren't OCD about efficiency, don't want to be, and feel that their ability and willingness to buy a brand new car is proof that they don't need to be.

Of course that's the generic "people," there are plenty of people buying EVs who are fine with the limitations. And that number is going to continue to grow. But the rest of us aren't just dummies who are too brain dead or lazy to fully plan out every step we take. To suggest otherwise is pretty funny to me.

[thesameguy]

I don't disagree with anything you said - I think it's wholly accurate. At the same time the entire sentiment just reeks of murica. It doesn't matter whether you are planning your trips because your car limits your capabilities or because fossil fuels are a limited resource or because running any sort of machinery wastefully is disrespectful of the planet. The bottom line is that waste is waste and needs to be actively discouraged on all avenues.

I don't plan my trips because I have OCD, I plan my trips because I dislike waste and am not made of money. Planning saves the world and saves my bank account, it's win-win. The exact same mentality that causes people to make right turns from the left lane results in people driving back and forth across town all day - they simply couldn't be arsed to plan in advance what they needed to get done. People need to get over any delusions that waste is ok. It isn't. It never was, but especially isn't now. It is clearly a problem - they run PSAs on TV addressing exactly this.

Edit: Probably important to add: I am not suggesting for a minute that limited-range EVs are a solution for everyone and I hope I've always been clear about that. There are plenty of folks who have long commutes or necessarily unpredictable driving. Sometimes I have to get in a car and drive 200 or 400 miles on a moment's notice. An EV could not be the sole mode of transportation for me. But at the same time limited-range EVs are eschewed by a lot of people on the basis of range, when with planning they should be doing anyway they never need more than the EV has to offer.

[Drachen596]

I would love a Zero motorcycle or an all electric car. Issue for me is cost and charging. Thats it.

Then again at the moment i dont do much besides commuting and errands. No long trips or anything.

[thesameguy]

Charging is definitely a consideration. The irony is that people who could probably benefit the most from EVs - people in denser urban areas - are usually the people who would have the most difficult time charging. That one isn't easy to fix...

[Random]

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/Schynige_Platte_diamond_pantograph.jpg/640px-Schynige_Platte_diamond_pantograph.jpg

edit: :D

[Godson]

I wish motoczysz released a public version of the e1pc

[neanderthal]

Wasting time, waiting for servers and pondering short term leases to fill the hole until we can get a look at a Model 3...

Scroll down to the section on the Corolla...

http://leasehackr.com/blog/2016/3/4/compact-sedan-leases-ranked-civic-focus-jetta-cruze

The picture of the Corolla. Gold. :D

[thesameguy]

For a site that focuses on getting cheap cars to people, they at least seem to like cars. ;)

Took the BMW in to replace the mismatched tires with new Kumho ASXs in the stock size and had them throw an alignment on it too. Toe was off at all four corners but interestingly total toe was right on both axles. Seems like someone did a really bad alignment on it at some point.

The grumbling from the right front wheel is totally gone, so it was either a bad tire or an artifact of the bad alignment. Car now rides quiet and straight. In fact, it drives so well that I know I am going to have a hard time not poking at its remaining issues if it sticks around much longer. But, it's mine for at least the next three weeks so I am going to have to try. ;)

[thesameguy]

Dammit.

I was really proud of myself for rigging up a solar-powered float charger for the lawn mower battery using the reclaimed panel from the motorhome, a home-built LED-based controller, and a few excess parts from the Falcon/Fleetwood chargers. Been on there for almost a year because weren't nothing growing in my yard. I went to start up the mower last weekend and the starter didn't move - battery had died. Took the battery out and plugged it into the Falcon's charger. Came back the next day to see if it had recovered and the mower still wouldn't turn over... because you have to be sitting on the seat with the brake engaged to use the starter. Facepalm! Now I don't know whether my homebrew charger actually worked through the winter or not! Balls!

[Random]

I think I rusted mine into a lump, so you're ahead of me. :(

[thesameguy]

I don't know why, but that struck me as hilarious and I just snorted rockstar.

[thesameguy]

Man, if this wasn't in late August I would be there in the Falcon or the Fleetwood.

http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/rally?utm_source=LM+Rally+Announcement+%231&utm_campaign=Jersey+16+last+call&utm_medium=email

[thesameguy]

Can't help but notice the '16 eFocus can be leased for $88/mo. Downside #1 is a $2.5k driveoff but there is the $2.5k California rebate. Downside #2 is a 10.5k/yr mileage - don't know where they came up with that. Might be able to net conquest lease incentive, and she should qualify for the graduate incentive that could knock another $1,000 off.

I wish there was a 24-month lease at this price, 'cause I'd do it without thinking further.

I still might do it after thinking further. :)

[thesameguy]

Decided against it after talking to insurance. Sticking with the Hyundai saves us $200/mo so we are just going to bank that for a while.

With all the Fiat hoopla I just about forgot it was tax time - the time when all the discretionary income vendors start sending out discounts to try and nab some tax refund money.... the one time a year Summit Racing sends out a coupon... $25 off $150, every year. Kinda special because Summit carries a bunch of stuff that never goes on sale, like these:

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/prd126.htm

"Universal Speedometer Signal Interface"

It has been on my wish list for a really long time - plan is to use a Saab 9000 VSS in a Saab 900 transmission and use the 5e to convert that output into a 4x or 1/4x (don't recall) signal to run the fuel injection. I am hoping/assuming any aftermarket speedo can handle a variety of pulse configurations. The ultimate goal is that - replace the speedo in the SPG. It's kinda stupid, mostly just curiosity about making it work, but the speedometer electronics are integral to the fuel injection, hard to find in working shape, and I'd like a working odometer again. The alternative would be sending mine out for repair and adjustment, about $150. A custom gauge setup will be 3x that, but - like I said - will satisfy some curiosity. ;)

Now I guess I need to learn about software oscilloscopes so I can get some readings off the existing outputs. That does not sound like fun, but maybe a long term benefit.

[thesameguy]

For my record, the gearbox VSS is 9832ppm AC, and the factory speedometer converts that to 2458ppm square wave. Dakota customer service says no problem - we'll see if they're right!

[Godson]

Ppm?

[Godson]

Nvm

[thesameguy]

lol

[thesameguy]

I set about replacing the rear calipers on the XR4Ti yesterday. Because I'm me I bought a pair - both of mine were junkyard parts I put on the car 10 years ago, so if one failed the other couldn't be far behind. Got replacements from rockauto a week and a half ago, and spent the interim time prepping and painting them to match the sexy red front calipers. Actually, the red front calipers were sexy in 2005. Now I'm stuck in an endless loop of painting fronts so they match the backs and then backs so they match the fronts. BREAK THE CYCLE. Bah. I spent a long time painting them up all pretty and Sunday was install day.

Took maybe 30 minutes. Just not that hard. Bled the brake system and sat down in the front seat to get the pistons set. Heard the driver's side click-click into position (handbrake...) but nothing from the passenger side. Got out to check, and sure enough the driver's side was nice and tight but the passenger side hadn't moved. Sat down again, pumped the brakes a couple times and heard SPLOOOOOOOSH FIZZZZZZZZZZZ. WTF. Lies. I knew what the fuck without even getting up. Inner seal failed and all that shiny new brake fluid was now on the driveway. But I looked anyway... yeah... a puddle of aerated brake fluid. SONOFA!!!!!!!

Irked I took the new caliper off, put the old one back on, and sent an email to rockauto. I guess I should count my blessings it failed in the first five minutes rather than once I was out on the road.

Interestingly, The two calipers originally on the car both say "Ford Varga 3" on them, which makes sense as that's what they are. Of the replacements, only the driver's side says "Varga 3" - the passenger side is devoid of any markings. Obviously it's not a Ford original part, but I'm wondering if maybe it's not just a reproduction but an actually totally different but similar looking part. Hmmm.

Whatever. Car is back together, I'll swap out the remaining caliper at some point down the road. I have a fridge to get to SoCal next weekend. Go me.

[thesameguy]

I put the VSS on the drill press and connected it to a multimeter to see what it does...

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/saabvss_drillpress.jpg

At 700rpm it has a 189Hz pulse and a ~6vac output.

I have no idea how to equate that to anything, but it's definitely some sort of measurement.

Wish I knew what the drive ratio of the VSS was. Then I would know something useful.

[JoshInKC]

I have no idea how to equate that to anything, but it's definitely some sort of measurement.

Hah. I've spent a lot of time doing exactly that - "Well, I've measured some things and generated some data... But is it good for anything at all?" Usually I figure out some use for it, but there is a hidden graveyard of spreadsheets for different projects rotting in my archives.

[thesameguy]

I'd wager your familiar with that amazing feeling of accomplishment that gives way to great hope that slowly subsides into wondering why you're wasting your own tome them. :lol:

[thesameguy]

I cannot believe how many typos were in that last post. Sheesh.

Anyhow, I'm in no hurry with my VSS project as it's going to cost bank to finish - so I'm putting my frustrating, inconclusive math on hold and working on things I have a good chance to succeed with.

The girl and I got the fridge into the back of the F150 yesterday *no problem*. Partly because she's super ripped from all her physical activity and partly because I am a damned pro at spatial reasoning and simple machines. :lol:

While I was outside I decided to take another crack at the high idle issue. I hooked up the Mityvac to every vacuum circuit on the truck to check for leaks. I found one - a pretty sizeable one on a plastic tube going to the MAP. I can't even *see* where it's leaking, but it is. Replaced it. I don't think I successfully checked the SAI (do they call it AIR? I don't know) or EGR systems as they are controlled by a bunch of vacuum solenoids, but the feed to the solenoids is solid, and the lines from the solenoids are solid, so the only potential leak would be if a solenoid in the series past the first one leaked. I think it's a reasonably safe bet it does not. EGR valve holds vacuum, so if it's failed it's failed internally.

I did note the throttle body has a lot of slop in it. I've read that's a problem on these trucks - I guess in Ford's ever-cheapening of the 300 they found a way to make a bad throttle body. Apparently the axle gets loose in its pivots and even the butterfly itself can get loose on the axle. Feels like I may have both problems!

TPS checks out - 5v in, and .5v - 4.5v range.

There is no way to test IAC - it moves, that's all I can say. :)

I'm not getting into anything further - it has 1000 cruise-control-less miles to do in the next three days (:finger:) and I'm not adding more risk to that task. Maybe the MAP leak is the cause - here's to hoping!

[thesameguy]

Just gonna document some stuff here so I don't forget... plus, thinking out loud:

SPG currently has:

Speedo/Odo/Trip = via VSS via Dakota Digital Converter, done
Tach/Clock = via the ignition control unit, done
Fuel/Boost/Temp = The factory fuel gauge seems to be 65 Ω empty and 3 Ω full, which is lovely non-place to be. It seems early Fords use 73 Ω Empty and 10 Ω Full, which is probably close enough. I guess I could even add a 5-7 Ω resistor in there to make right. :up: I was hoping to be able to use the later-style sender that's integrated with the pump, but that's even worse - 32-50 Ω empty and 350-425 Ω full depending on model (9000, 9-3, 9-5). That's not even approaching a standard. :erm: Boost is obviously easy. Temp gauge sender is a little 1/8" NPT thing in the head, easy to replace. Or, maybe use the fuel injection sensor which is 5800 Ω at freezing and 320 Ω at 167 degrees F. Maybe that's some sort of standard. :lol:

I don't care about a clock or a trip odometer and space is tight so they're gone, and I'd be fine losing the analog speed for a digital speed display to save more space. I'd really like to add a voltmeter and some sort of oil gauge - pressure or temp, but I'm torn. Probably moot, because I just don't think there is room for, what, seven functions using normal-sized gauges in a small space.

I need turn signal and high beam indicators and a some idiot lights - CEL, brake fluid, battery. Probably don't want to lose the low fuel light. I think that's it.

I've been looking into motorcycle gauges because they mostly do what I want... I can do most of the wiring, but the speedometer becomes an issue - all the gauges I've been able to find just expect you to strap a magnet to the sprocket and be done. Lame. You'd think with modern bikes having more onboard electronics they'd have programmable speedos for them like cars, but I guess not. Even worse (for me) Koso makes some really nice replacement Harley gauges, but they're plug & play and not programmable at all. :(

http://www.directcycleparts.com/images/dakotadigitalMVXseries.jpg

I'd definitely rock those in the SPG!

[thesameguy]

I wonder if something like this is too much:

http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM338-QUAD-01/1/Quad-Gauge---Water-Temp-Metric,-Volts,-Oil-psi,-Fuel-Level

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51aHDE0Y-eL.jpg

Four gauges in 3 3/8" ...

[Random]

Remind me what the problem statement was for this?

[thesameguy]

Living the dream?

I swapped the '85's fuel injection to '90+, which is faster/more accurate/easier to service. It requires a road speed input to work properly.

To get the road speed input, you need a speedometer from a '90+ car that converts the factory cable drive to a digital signal for the fuel injection. So I did that too.

The problems:

1. The speedo comes in two flavors - 1990 and 1991, or 1992 and 1993. The difference is only cosmetic, but obviously you want them to match. ;) In any case, we're talking four years of instruments from 25 years ago.
2. Like a lot of European cars, the stupid gear that drives the odometer fails, so in addition to normal obscurity finding a functional odometer is tough. The repair is cheap, but it's still a continual point of failure.
3. Because everything is brittle and old, changing the odometer is increasingly difficult, so my 250,000 mile old SPG shows 96,000 miles on the odometer... and that gear is starting to fail. Almost no longer working.

TL;DR, what I am trying to solve in the most roundabout way possible is a broken & inaccurate odometer. :lol:

I could spend ~$200 and send it off to a repair shop and be done, but as always, I'm trying to address a current failure, an ongoing weak point, and add some functionality all in one pass. It's kind of a neat project, so even if it's not the most cost effective approach it's fun. :)

[Random]

Oh, ok. :lol:

Here's the hardcore!!!!1!one option: http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthread.php?56373-FS-Race-Technology-DASH2-and-DL-1

I do like this option:
http://www.directcycleparts.com/images/dakotadigitalMVXseries.jpg

...but only if you actually put nine (9) gauges in the dash. :D (four of which are redundant...lol)

[thesameguy]

I have not entirely ruled out the possibility of a fully digital dash... when you start adding up $200 gauges you get to $1500 very quickly. :(

I can live with most info via digital, but I really want an analog, dial-type tach. I've been looking at multifunction displays like the DASH2 to work in combination with a dial-type tach... That's definitely on the table, and what was appealing about Koso's motorcycle offerings... they are exactly that!Failing that option with no way to drive the speedometer I've tried replicate is VAG's great tach|display|speedo setup but I can't find a small, vertical data display.

I've got months to work this out - May or June - but I like having all the options in front of me for a good long think. ;)

[thesameguy]

Not free, but...

http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/Product/DASH%20SYSTEM%200-9000%20RPM

[thesameguy]

They also make a stepper-based tach w/ speed display that's very close to what I'm looking for...

http://www.spatechnique.com/content/prodImg/873/9k_generic_tacho.png

I wish it was 0-7k or 0-8k and <3k wasn't buried at the bottom, but it's bloody close and beggars can't be choosers. :)

That and a pair of dual-function digital gauges flanking is not a bad approach..

http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/SPA/S318fuelpressvoltsgauge.gif

... Although at that point it's a grand, and why not do a DASH2... :|

[Random]

Especially a used one. ;)

[thesameguy]

Realized the flaw in my tach w/ speedo plan somewhere around Atwater Friday night... no odometer function. :( It's less of a concern now given what was spent this past weekend. :smh:

On the upside, 20 year old F150 had no problems with the 450 mile drive to SoCal. It was remarkably comfortable and easy to drive, actually, which was a little unexpected. In fact, TBH, I think it has better road manners than the Suburban. I made a little platform to extend the back "seat" all the way to the front seat backs so the dog would have enough room to move around, but unfortunately the lack of her own windows meant keeping the front windows down the whole time. She of course went right to sleep (she is such a good traveler) but the second we'd put the windows up she was whining for fresh air. :lol: Oh well, we drove windows down and stereo off and it wasn't bad at all.

Truck averaged an unimpressive 18mpg. I honestly expected better from the six & five speed since I can do that with the Suburban, but I'm betting 65mph (indicated, I think faster since the tires are oversized) isn't where the six is really happy. Windows down doesn't help, either. The Grapevine was less of a challenge than I thought it was going to be, but did require a downshift to 3rd to keep 65mph (at 3000rpm) - neither 4th or 5th could hack it. :lol: Not a big deal, the 300ci can run at 3000rpm forever. Literally.

Made some new discoveries about the idle issue... after 2-3 hours of cruising at 1800rpm and coming to a stop, the engine just kept running at 1800rpm for a while, sometimes even increasing speed a little bit. Over a few minutes idle would creep back down, or killing the engine & restarting would reset it immediately. This smacks of idle control valve problems, so I think I'll probably pull it off and see what it looks like, clean it, maybe replace it. At some point.

900+ miles in two days sucks no matter how you slice it, but mission accomplished. Fridge delivered, Benz got an oil change, new O2 sensor, and a wash & wax, and I was reminded yet again how much I really, really, really don't want to live in the Inland Empire. Blech. Now, onto a lot of v GTAV for April, 'cause I'm too poor to do anything else.

[JoshInKC]

Truck averaged an unimpressive 18mpg. I honestly expected better from the six & five speed since I can do that with the Suburban, but I'm betting 65mph (indicated, I think faster since the tires are oversized) isn't where the six is really happy. Windows down doesn't help, either.
Don't forget that a pickup, especially one with a fridge sticking above the roof, is just going to be inherently more aerodynamically crappy than a suburban due to the sharp drop off from the roof into the bed and then whatever the tailgate might do.

[thesameguy]

True, true. It is interesting to note that with fridge was *barely* worse than without. 17.2 with, and 17.9 without. I'm betting if I had made the airfoil I was originally considering it probably would have been even worse. :lol: Although, had I made that airfoil I might not have sacrificed my $15 Harbor Freight furniture blanket, which got torn the fuck up by wind abuse. It looks like the sail on a pirate ship. :lol:

Edit: Also, the Vortec 350... excuse me... 5700... does benefit from being quite a bit newer than the fuel injected I6 (nevermind the non-crossflow I6 in general!). A similar-generation 350-in-a-Suburban definitely doesn't get the almost-20mph the '99 does. My TBI Suburban was 15-16 max, making the 300 a solid 12% improvement. :D Still, I was hoping for low 20s, but that probably isn't achievable with a long bed extended cab F150 with the uprated weight capacity.

[CudaMan]

On your EPS retrofit project, I was talking to a guy at the autox last Sunday (Russ, it's Jesus V) who has been putting Prius PS in various vintage autox cars. Apparently it's a column-mounted system, somewhere in the dash area, with the electronic brains close by. The brain only needs a power source and it's happy to operate on its own (no inter-connected systems bullshnizzle). He mentioned a company that sells kits, but my Google-fu is failing on that one too. He said "easy steer" or perhaps "EZ Steer." I tried both. Anyhow, someone resourceful like yourself could probably get the parts from a junkyard and figure it out without the kit. Be cheaper that way anyway.

[Godson]

I need more info.

[thesameguy]

I have never considered the Prius as a donor, but I am familiar with the EPS they used on the Echo, so perhaps they're similar. The c900 has a very short steering column - it's rear-steer and the rack is mounted essentially at the pedals, so the entire column isn't very long. There is a bunch of dash stuff in there, but I'm betting I could clear away a good portion of it. I really like the feel of hydraulic, but there is some appeal in skipping the middle man. I wonder how an ex-hydraulic rack assisted with an electric motor would feel.

I'll add: Even if I don't go EPS on the SPG, these systems interest me as I think adapting one to the Falcon would be easier and quite productive!

Also: Cuda, do you know the amp output of the alternator is on the MR2?

Also: Rockauto has brand-new EHPS pumps for the Saturn Astra for five bills. I don't know how you control their output - whether it's demand based or uses a speed signal - but it's an option off a recent car that doesn't break the bank. ;)

[thesameguy]

Looks like the Prius and Yaris share parts, probably derivative of the Echo:

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/79652-Electric-power-steering

[CudaMan]

I don't recall specifically but I know there's a range of MR2 alternators, depending on options (EHPS being one of them). I think it was anywhere from 70A to 100A, maybe there was one over 100A but I'm not sure. I remember almost 7 or 8 years ago not being able to find an alternator that would properly fit my 93 Turbo at any parts store in southern Oregon. The bolt hole spacing is a little different between years or amperage ratings or something. I had a lot of help to MacGyver a wrong alternator in there to get me home, then I special ordered the correct alternator from Toyota - I guess a 93T with EHPS uses a not very common alternator.

[thesameguy]

Interesting... about what I expected.

The SPG had a 75a or 85a alternator stock, which is barely adequate. I think I put a later 105a unit on there, but I don't honestly remember. I know all those EHPS units can draw up to 60-70a, which is *definitely* bleeding edge, but how long you do you spend at full lock with the engine running and high beams on? Not long - the battery can make up the difference. I am always curious what other cars do - and the MR2 and SPG are similar enough in age to have a similar loadout of electrical doodads that a comparison is useful.

[CudaMan]

Gotcha. I found my receipt, it's a 90A alternator in my car. Stereo is aftermarket but no external amp. Otherwise the car is stock, electronically.

[thesameguy]

That's very good to know - being able to run a ~60a power steering pump with only 30a to run the rest of the car and feeling okay about it means I can certainly do it on a 105a alt!

[thesameguy]

The back of the Ford has kinda been bugging me...

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_murica.jpg

"American Flag" seems so obvious, but if I remove it I will have four holes in the back on the tailgate... or, I guess, four screws in the back of the tailgate just begging to be given a purpose. I've been considering options.

http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-cnog8/products/2151/images/15093/LP-2513__42582.1431008247.380.380.jpg?c=2

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41FocfCYP7L._SX300_.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/5134LjUghZL.jpg

Not sure...

[Godson]

Boobies. Definitely boobies.

[thesameguy]

Thinking the same, tbh.

Also, maybe TMI, but my dashhole is 11.5" by 5".

[novicius]

:lol: #bewbs

[thesameguy]

Had a gauge related revelation today, but subsequently determined nobody makes a standalone odometer or, for that matter, a 2 1/16" speedometer with odometer or a 2 1/16" multifunction gauge where one display includes odometer. And really, of course they don't - because who calls up their local speed shop looking for an aftermarket odometer? That's just dumb.

[Random]

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=292/prd292.htm

?

[thesameguy]

Ha - it's on my list to check out. My concern is that the gauge will reset itself to the speed display with a key cycle and that would irk me more than the horrific bright blue scifi digits. :D

[thesameguy]

I am really surprised nobody has productized this given all the weird stuff on the market, but a device that aggregates analog gauge signals and encodes them into an OBDII or CAN stream would give access to some very cool solutions.

It's really too bad MS doesn't report via some OBDII protocol - even Holly's fuel injection systems can do that. :(

[thesameguy]

Give someone $3000 - or about twice what I paid for the entire car - and they'll just handle it for me.

http://zada-tech.com/products/digital-dashboards/lcd-digital-dashboard-in-high-definition

They do have some neat stuff though - maybe items that can help without costing three. thousand. dollars.

Like this:

http://zada-tech.com/products/multi-gauges/32-full-colour-tft-graphical-lcd-multi-gauge

If my dashhole is 11" wide and my rough estimation of a 3.2" diagonal display is accurate, I can fit two 4" gauges (speedo and tach) flanking this thing for my VAG-esque complete solution.

http://zada-tech.com/dyn/32lcd05.jpg

*Maybe* the thing can present portrait, making it fit that much better!

[speedpimp]

Boob plate and Truck Nutz hanging from the hitch.

[Random]

I am really surprised nobody has productized this given all the weird stuff on the market, but a device that aggregates analog gauge signals and encodes them into an OBDII or CAN stream would give access to some very cool solutions.

It's really too bad MS doesn't report via some OBDII protocol - even Holly's fuel injection systems can do that. :(

It looks like there are some OBDII readers that accept customizable analog inputs. Example: http://www.auterraweb.com/supsen.html

That seems clunky, though.

I found a post on a ScanTool forum asking for exactly what you are looking for. It was in 2012. :(

[thesameguy]

I saw that thread - got really excited from the Google synopsis, then was sad.

Also found some evidence of people doing this with Arduino using an OBDII shield as well. I, sadly, am not that talented.

[thesameguy]

I had to take the F150 up to Tahoe on Friday. Lots of things I would rather drive, but with a 10' by 4' object going up, I had no choice. Guess the firm is glad I have a pickup right now. Let there be no doubt, the Ford is pretty gutless. Most of the climb was done in 3rd, wailing away at 3500rpm. Any higher gear and I was losing speed pretty dramatically. Once up at a few thousand feet I kept it in 4th mostly - at 50-60mph that is your only option for accelerating. ;) Despite driving a 20 year old underpowered pickup with a $10,000 object in the back in an excessively slow manner (safety first!) I was *still* passing people. When I am in a faster car it's difficult to tell whether everyone else is actually slow or just slower than I am, but now having driven a slow car slow I can say with authority people on 50 literally cannot drive. I mean, I was going the speed limit or slightly under the entire time. Terrible!

Fortunately it was really early and traffic was light, so not much time was spent stuck behind people creeping along. On the open road, the Ford was remarkably planted and pleasant to drive. It is definitely a better drive than the Suburban, which strikes me as a crazy thing to say. I am not sure part of it is the manual transmission, but I swear the steering is more direct and more accurate too.

[thesameguy]

Also, Tahoe sure is pretty in the morning...

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_tahoe.jpg

[novicius]

Very nice! :up:

[thesameguy]

Weird keeping a lake 7000' in the air, but whatever works. ;)

[Random]

When I am in a faster car it's difficult to tell whether everyone else is actually slow or just slower than I am, but now having driven a slow car slow I can say with authority people on 50 literally cannot drive. I mean, I was going the speed limit or slightly under the entire time. Terrible!


I passed people on 50 in a bus...that was governed to 56 mpg. It's them, not you. ;)

[thesameguy]

That simultaneously makes me feel good and bad. It would have been cool to be the best F150 driver ever.

[thesameguy]

I will also note I love the idea of those nitwits being passed by a bus. Everything about that is excellent.

[thesameguy]

I meant to mention: The E320 is still looking really good. So good I commented to the girl on the way back, "Hey, it looks really good. I think your mom is taking good care of it, which is a surprise." Turns out, it's not so much of a surprise.

A couple years ago when she was down there without me she found a coffee spill all over the center console, down the side, and onto the passenger floor carpet... just... lingering. Apparently she let her mom have it - "TSG goes to a lot of trouble and spends a lot of money to be sure you have a nice car, you need to take of it. This is not acceptable." Whoa.

Well, it worked. Still mountains of useless junk in the car - a bottle jack, for example.. like, what, she's going to climb under the car and change the oil pan on the side of a dusty desert highway?. But, generally well organized and clean inside. I much prefer when people behave themselves because they think it's the right thing to do, but I'll accept shaming into compliance as well.

Anyway, changed the oil, checked the fluids & tires, and replaced the O2 sensor as the cat was replaced in November and I don't really wanna spend that $500 again. Old O2 sensor was black, so I'm glad I had the part. Weather was nice, so I applied various conditioners to the interior and various waxes and polishes to the exterior and we'll check back in a few months.

I may replace the engine splash guard - the front edge is in poor shape - but I at least need to buy new hardware. Inexplicably, both are readily available from No Name on Amazon and Ebay, but none of the specialty MB parts stores carry them. So odd. Really, really nice having such a short to-do list and a car going strong into its third year. :up:

[neanderthal]

Last of the over engineered Benzes. ;)

[neanderthal]

Also, bless you. You have far more patience and tolerance than me. I will not, can not, sink time, effort, or money into something for someone that doesn't appreciate it and take care of it accordingly. It's why I don't do any work on my family's vehicles or help them with anything other than general knowledge. My cousin's Honda Accord still has one bulb out and it's been about six months.

Nope. Won't do it. If he can't invest the time to watch a youtube video and try to replace it, i sure as shit am not going to go change it for him.

[thesameguy]

The Benz in good shape is my small slice of sanity while I'm down there. Nothing else makes any sense.

[thesameguy]

Really feeling good about this potential cluster for the SPG:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/85spg_maybecluster.png

It's pretty close to scale - maybe slightly too much space laterally, but close. It's two 4" Speedhut programmable gauges (speedo w/ odo & tach w/ shift light), a 2 1/16" Speedhut gauge (fuel level w/ warning light) and a 3.2" Zada Tech TFT, which will handle engine temp, boost, and some other stuff, probably like this:

http://www.fastcar.co.uk/fastcar-assets/2012/10/Zadatec-3.2-Inch-Multi-Gauge-02.jpg

Zada does make a 4.3" TFT that would go great vertically in the middle, but it does not appear fuel level is one of the inputs, so.....

Zada also makes a cool 6-function warning panel I would like to use:

http://zada-tech.com/dyn/55423146-8027.jpg

but I don't think it'll fit. As such, I will have to use standalone lights for the warning functions I need. Not too big of a deal. Six completely unmarked lights shouldn't be *too* confusing. :smh:

Edit: I wonder if it'd be intolerably weird to put the fuel level in the center console, and just the idiot light in the middle where it's obvious. Hmm. I can't think of that many times I've been totally unaware of fuel level such that I need to watch it all the time. The idiot light probably is sufficient.

[thesameguy]

Hmmm. I am also realizing that the 3.2" TFT is 56mm tall. I really wonder if that could be crammed into a single-DIN opening.

[thesameguy]

Sent an email to Zada with a few questions - got back a quick response!


Thank you for your interest.

It can be programmed vertically for you.

Yes we can put a fuel level for you for £30.

The 6 warning light add on kit is not available anymore. We however can put icons on the 4.3" LCD for you.

Looking forward to hearing from you.


Totally stoked. I think this is *the* answer... Or, at least a fun experiment!

[thesameguy]

I can't believe after decades of driving c900s I never noticed that the hole in the dash is smaller than the cluster and that the gauges are minutely canted towards the center. Thoughtful design completely lost on me. For shame. I found this out while measuring the existing gauges - 5" speedo, 4.5" for the other two.

The hole in the dash is about 11" wide, but the cluster is just over 13" wide. I should be able to fit two 4.5" gauges, and I think I'd prefer that rather than losing size. That's 9" knocked out, so I just might... might be able to fit the 4.3" display landscape as originally intended, but definitely vertical. I like options.

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/85spg_maybecluster2.png

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/85spg_maybecluster3.png

At this moment I am wishing I had one of those 3d laser printers to knock out some mounts. Or, someone with a regular 3D printer that could handle this ~13x5 piece and replicate the curve. That would be neat. Cutting perfectly located 4.2" holes for the gauges is going to be a challenge.

I will also mention that the 4.3" TFT has an HDMI input. I'll bet without too much work I could duplicate a smart phone display up there... Google maps in the dash. :up: Maybe do some experimenting and let that decide its orientation.

[Yeti]

That'll look pretty baller. Will the six-function display now fit in the center?

[Godson]

4.2 in centered per side right? That isn't hard to do at all, especially if it is a rectangle like you say it is.

[thesameguy]

Found out they don't make it anymore, but that they will put that functionality in the main screen - double win!

However, given the revelations about my size (giggity) I may be able to reuse the existing idiot lights, which would make me happy. I need to order those Speedup gauges so I can play with figments. Five bills is May money. Hopefully.

[thesameguy]

Rough weekend, but a good weekend. We let the yard pretty much go to hell last year - between the drought and the dog re-injury it wasn't just laziness, it seemed the right thing to do. Well, now we gotta fix it. Spent virtually all day Saturday and Sunday outside mowing, trimming, cutting. Awful. I hate yardwork.

To break up the monotony of a completely futile activity, I did some car work. Changed the oil on the XR4Ti and the Fiero. Replaced the oil pressure sender on the Fiero so the dash gauge will stop bouncing around like crazy. Took apart the throttle body on the F150 for cleaning and inspection. Found this:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_tb1.jpg

WTF? Never seen anything like that - I can't even guess as to what would cause it. I thoroughly cleaned and lubed the IAC and scrubbed out the throttle body bores - it was pretty nasty in there, which is expected after 175,000 miles I suppose. Once clean, the butterfly action was much improved but it seems there is definitely some wear on one of them:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_tb2.jpg

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/95_f150_tb3.jpg

After reassembling, it was taking to Lowes for some supplies - the idle set and stayed at a rock-solid 750rpm. I think it's actually supposed to be lower, but I don't think I can get it any lower with the butterfly wear. 750 is acceptable - so much better than 1100rpm. I'm hoping the cure was the wrecked gasket, as I'm not confident "maintenance" on the IAC is long-lasting. I guess worst case I can replace it - nice that it's not the expensive EGR valve!

Saturday evening we drove the motorhome up to Auburn. No good reason, just to get it some road time and start making a mental list of things that need attention. We've got some camping scheduled in June and the desert in August. Seems really good - my list is tiny so far! All the important stuff like engine, transmission, brakes, steering, and suspension still seem awesome. :up:

Finally, I decided to put the old HTPC (the one the Alpha replaced) for sale on CL and it sold Saturday afternoon. Proceeds from it will directly fund the SPG's new gauges - sucks turning an entire computer into something as low-tech as gauges, but whatever. Gonna order the speedo and tach in the next couple days. Hard choices to make:

This is the default coloring - white text, black background, silver bezel, red pointer:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/spggauges/tach1.JPG

But I think the bezel is too chunky and the silver is too much, so I'm thinking black:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/spggauges/tach-blackbezel.PNG

They have a bunch of different color combinations - most are obnoxious, but they do offer the Maxima-esque white during day, black at night, which is nice:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/spggauges/tach2-day.JPG

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/spggauges/tach2-night.JPG

You can place text or a logo anywhere on the gauge - I'm considering either "Special Performance Group" (what SPG stands for...) or the Saab Griffin:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/spggauges/tach-spg.PNG

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/spggauges/tach-griffin.PNG

(The actual "Special Performance Group" text would be in the same font as the rest of the gauge - I don't have it, close approximation.)

Finally, I am considering a red zone - I think in lieu of the graphic/text:

http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/spggauges/tach-pie.PNG

I need to stare at this stuff a while. Lead time on these gauges is 2-4 weeks, so I kinda want to get it going. I need to fit them before I know whether the display is going to be vertical or horizontal - 2-4 weeks for these, plus 2-4 weeks for the display! I probably won't have this done before the end of summer!

[novicius]

I'm into Olde Timey Americana so garish chrome bezel on either black or white is fine with me. So you may want to avoid that. :D #badtaste